2014 Bouchard Montrachet, 2012 Krug Brut, 2014 Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, 1995 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny GC, 1997 Williams Selyem Hirsch Vineyard Pinot 1996 Louis Jadot Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques 2013 Jacques Prieur Montrachet Grand Cru

The boys from Gleneagles rounded off 2023 with a superb line-up at Imperial Treasure Teochew (ION Orchard) on 14 December. Another evening of great excesses but we polished off everything. Thank you all!

2002 Champagne Corbon Avize Brut, courtesy of CJ. Burnished golden hue, proffering a delicate flinty lift of matchstick smoke. Super dry with youthful intensity in spite of substantial bottle age, its crisp acidity cutting through the subtly austere palate with bright clarity.

2008 Champagne Egly Ouriet Brut Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ. Delicate subtle lift of cool dense glacial tones matched by a full presence of olives, dense citrus and nutmeg that produced a crystalline glow of white tones with exquisite intensity. Shows tremendous breed and sophistication.

Champagne Henri Giraud Ay MV18, courtesy of LF. Luminous gold. Distilled glowing yeasty overtones. Open and highly supple, boasting ample depth of glorious citrus with an engaging sweet intensity, imparting exciting verve.

Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée NV, courtesy of Daryl. This 171st edition appears pale golden, proffering gentle overtones of smoke and yeast with open cool glacial tones from the intense presence of bright citrus, laced with a trace of sweetness.

2012 Champagne Krug Brut, courtesy of MH. Subtle yeasty tones amid a complex of sweet citrus, boasting great refinement with superb clarity and freshness. Wonderfully balanced with understated intensity and elegant sheen, tapering to a finish of gun metal and white incense.

2014 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ. Pale golden, proffering cool icing and vanillin on the nose whilst the medium palate is muted is white tones, touched with a distinct salinity. Highly cohesive and regal, but shy. This may take several more years to turn the corner.

2014 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Displaying pale greenish hues, this wine opens with a highly ethereal restraint in spite of the ample presence of fruit on the medium-full palate, laced with a dash of saline. Very impeccably proportioned. Subtly layered with great cohesion, proffering only occasional glimpses of its potential power and slick intensity. Yet to attain true complexity. Truly one for the ages.

2013 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of John. Dull golden, exuding a faint perfumed fragrance with some secondary development. Very well-balanced and elegant, displaying a recessed chalkiness with faint powdery textures, the fruit beautifully ripe and cool though it isn’t quite as regal as a Bouchard.

1996 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson, evoking dense secondary characters from an ample depth of mature cherries, imparting lovely concentration and supple intensity in spite of its age.

2014 Château de Marsannay Chambertin Grand Cru. Deep crimson, proffering elegant rosy hues on the nose though it is somewhat underwhelming on the medium-weight palate, open with soft tannins, slightly earthy with a tinge of saline, missing in true complexity and layering.

1997 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard, courtesy of LF. Murky opaque brown. The fruit is clearly autumnal, evoking powerful overtones of licorice and medicinal tones amid leathery textures though its acidity is still amazingly fresh, imparting great energy.

2004 Domaine Louis Remy Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay. Evolved crimson. Delicious bouquet of ripe red fruits and secondary characters, well replicated on the medium-bodied palate with a sense of rustic warmth and gruffness.

1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS. Beautiful deep ruby. Very lovely bouquet of dark roses and red cherries. Medium weight. Subtly layered with refined depth and impeccable balance, still imbued with wonderful freshness and verve, boasting brilliant purity of fruit with sublime acidity. Incredibly good. Still has decades ahead.