2016 Domaine Rollin Corton-Charlemagne, 2006 Henri Bonneau Réserve des Célestins, 2010 Château Rayas

I had the privilege of attending the great SC’s annual ritual, his New Year Eve lunch at Omakase@Stevens on 31 December 2024, where Chef Kazuki Arimoto has taken over from Chef Kubota. Nevertheless, it is reassuring to note that the refined culinary art at this institution is still expertly executed with supreme confidence. As usual, the wines had been carefully curated by SC himself where it is all about balance and good taste to accompany the exquisite cuisine, avoiding any vulgar excesses. Many thanks, Sir, and good health to all in 2025.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé. Poured from magnum. Displaying a deep orangey hue, this wine is still amazingly fresh and youthful, exuding a gentle lift of grapefruit and pears with superb presence and uniform intensity, underpinned by subtle dryish yeasty undertones.

2016 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Poured from magnum. Pale golden, opening with a refreshing lift of cool glacial tones that impart excellent clarity amid overtones of vanillin, burnt toast and crème on the medium palate with an undertow of mild salinity, becoming more sharply delineated over time with a poised regal elegance.

2006 Domaine Henri Bonneau et Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins. Poured from magnum. Deep clear ruby with a tinge of crimson. Effusive in black currants, dark plums, cherries and sweet incense though far from hedonistic. Medium presence, displaying lithe agility with striking acidity within a slender profile that’s almost feminine, eventually settling with quiet intensity as it stretched out with glowing persistence.

2010 Château Rayas Réservé. Poured from three bottles. Opaque brownish at the core, proffering a gentle savoury fragrance to complement the sublime acidity on the medium-full palate, exerting fleeting intensity of rosy hues and hawthorne from the seamless layers of glorious fruit throughout its superb length to its glowing minty finish. Outstanding.