2017 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin En Remilly, 2013 Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne Vergers, 2019 Etienne Sauzet Puligny Hameau Blagny 2021 Domaine Lambrays Morey Les Loups, 2016 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle Les Cras, 2020 G&C Felletig Chambolle Greunchers, 1995 Louis Jadot Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques, 1985 Remoissenet Père et Fils Richebourg, 2022 Kumeu River Maté’s Chardonnay

The usual suspects met up again at Hua Ting on 12 October 2026. With the recent news from Jancis Robinson of Kumeu River Chardonnay outperforming several pricey top-level burgundies, I slipped the estate’s flagship white into the blinded line-up. True enough, people thought it was either Meursault or Puligny. Nevertheless, the real McCoy still matters, as shown by the excellent quality of the other bottles; it’s a question of finding the best producers at each price point. Many thanks, gentlemen, as always, for your generosity.

2022 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay. Light yellowish-green. Initial lean reductive lift of floral green fruit and lemon, gradually fleshing out with weighty detail and definition, painting the palate in light shades of chalk and keen citrus with integral orchard fruit underscored by fine precision and superb acidity. Practically indistinguishable from burgundy.

2017 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er En Remilly, courtesy of Kieron. Pale luminosity, opening with lively citrus and tropical fruits that exert lovely tension and fragrance underpinned by sublime acidity and a deeper vein of taut fruit, boasting great clarity and supple intensity in spite of its concentrated focus. Finished well.

2013 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers, courtesy of Vic. Pale greenish. Rather reticent on the nose though the lean lithe palate is remarkably detailed in pineapples and tropical fruits amid subtle white tones, fleshing out with even greater chalkiness and definition, culminating in a mouth-puckering intensity as it sat in the glass. Highly successful.

2019 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Hameau de Blagny, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pale greenish, opening with a dryish note of malt and rye. The medium-weight palate is imbued with distant chalk and a hint of tropical fruit underpinned by sleek acidity, fleshing out with fine intensity though its refined minerality remained somewhat subdued. Highly integral.

2021 Domaine des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Les Loups, courtesy of Vic. Good colour with effusive notes of rose petals, sweet cherries and paraffin leaping out of the glass. Highly lithe and fleshy, dressed in unobtrusive supple tannins that yield lovely purity of fruit with a distinct feminine stance. Highly refined and elegant. From younger vines of its grand cru.

2016 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Cras, courtesy of Kieron. Great colour. Rather quiet on the nose, proffering minty undertones though the gravelly palate is wonderfully textured on a bed of soft tannins, layered with bright red fruits and currants that impart fair intensity and racy exuberance with a trace of medicinal quality. Still remarkably youthful and vibrant. Highly successful.

1995 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Saint-Jacques, courtesy of LF. Displaying considerable evolution in colour with a brownish tinge, this wine is soft, supple and velvety, highly detailed and intense, almost to the point of exuberance, to offset its relative leanness. Drinking very well and will continue to hold.

2020 Gabriel et Christine Fellitig Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Gruenchers. Good colour. Deep layers of red fruits and cherries dominate amid traces of enamel and supple tannins, displaying dense velvety textures that exude lovely freshness throughout its linear length. Modest finish.

1985 Remoissenet Père et Fils Richebourg, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tint. Attractive nose of mature berries, raspberries and violets laced with a trace of sweetness. Open and agile, yet to dry out in spite of its autumnal tones, displaying fine linearity towards its modest finish.