Ric's Wine Journal

This article kicks off a series of visits by yours truly to various wine producers in Burgundy, made possible only through the auspices of FICOFI, its CEO M. Philippe Capdouze no doubt having a big say in getting the visits organised during this very busy time of the year when harvesting and the initial fermentation processes are all underway, and, of course the venerable Dr S S Ngoi without whom my wine experiences would have been a lot poorer.

However, prior to Burgundy, in the way of an overture, was a side trip to Maison Henriot, that famous champagne house in Reims, on 24 September 2015. Straight after arriving at Charles de Gaulle aeroport, as the French would say, we drove immediately to Reims, arriving at Maison Henriot couple of hours later, where we were welcome by Beatrice Brossier. Henriot began making champagne back in 1808, perhaps not as long a history as a few other producers but this maison prides itself in producing a much smaller quantity of top drawer wine without aspiring to be a global producer which is simply great for connoisseurs around the world. The trouble is sourcing it. For its champagne blends, Henriot uses only grand cru and premier cru pinot grapes, its pinot noir planted on the northern and southern slopes of Reims while its chardonnay vines are located in the eastern slopes of the Cote de Blanc, where the chalky topsoil is ideal in delivering rich mineralogy to the wines.

We began first with the Henriot Rose NV, a blend of 65% pinot noir and 35% chardonnay that was fresh, lively and fruity with a hint of ripe red fruits and peaches, quite understated in minerality, yielding a wine of remarkable balance and elegance with some mild yeasty pendency coming on later. This was a great start, setting the tone for the rest of the tasting line up. Next, the Henriot Brut Souverain NV displayed mild yeasty overtones, attractively sweet with understated intensity, very well balanced against the chalky creamy minerality, a welcome move away from the usual brazen dryness of most NV Brut. This is an excellent calling card for the estate.

Moving up, the Henriot Blanc de blancs was poured, displaying very lovely gentle citrus with slightly darker undertones, crisp, deep and complex yet easy and approachable and not too dry, drinking well now. Excellent. The 2006 Henriot, made from a 50-50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from grand cru and premier cru grapes, was somewhat restrained, its sweet clear citrus sat with a quiet intensity amidst understated yeasty notes. supported by firm minerality, slightly stern in its finish. Again the remarkable balance is striking, the wine developing greater intensity and length over time but this wine needs to be left alone for several more years, at least.

Then comes the special cuvees. The Henriot Enchanteleurs series, made only in exceptional years, is a blend of 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir, all from grand cru. The 2000 Henriot Enchanteleurs displayed a wonderful glow of yeast, toast and great complexity of citrus and depth, open, lasting, subtle in minerality and sweetness. Most alluring and elegant. Excellent as that was, the best was yet to come. The winemaker, M. Laurent Fresnet, honoured us with his presence and a visit to the cellars of Henriot, where dark mouldy verticals of Henriot lay in quiet rest as they have been for years and decades. There, Laurent pulled out a 1982 Henriot Enchanteleurs from its bin and proceeded to disgorge the wine. To our immense surprise, this wine was still amazingly fresh and youthful, producing a deep aromatic glow with a great display of crisp acidity, complex citrus and great balance, just a tad dry, ensuring decades of life ahead. Truly an unique experience.

And as if that wasn’t enough, the piece de resistance came in the form of two magnums of Henriot Cuvee 38, popped and poured over a delectable lunch at the two Michelin-starred Les Crayieres. Started from a visionary move in 1990, this cuvee is made only from 100% chardonnay from four grand cru sites, when a small quantity is set aside each year and added to similar wine from previous years in a solera system and disgorged. The Cuvee 38 is minerally with intense notes of lemon, clear citrus and pomelo, highly complex and dry with a creamy texture throughout its length with a mild yeasty pungency coming on later, slightly austere at the finish. Far from mature, but superb. This has been a great eye opener and I’ll be sure to drink more Champagne Henriot when I get home. Merci beaucoup to Beatrice, Laurent and FICOFI for their kind generosity and hospitality.

2014 Ochagavia Silvestre cabernet sauvignon, a glass of which over lunch at Catalunya, 03 Sep 2015. Notes of plummy red fruit proliferate amongst other notes of earth and forest floor, generous in body with well-managed tannins. Quite serviceable as a table wine.

2009 Maison Leroy Bourgogne blanc (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. This wine easily outperforms its classification, its quality fruit offering generous depth and body, soft and creamy, offset by some chalkiness and very well balanced on the whole.

2001 Maison Leroy Mersault 1er Blagny (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. Dull golden and relatively muted, medium-bodied, its clean citrus notes displaying clear delineation. Somewhat lean. Could do with more opulence

1999 Maison Leroy Puligny-Montrachet 1er (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. A definite step up in quality from the Mersault, much more evolved, displaying the lovely fragrance of white flowers and crème de la crème, still rather backward on the palate, not helped by the subdued minerality although there is some emerging complexity. Still has a long life ahead. Very fine.

2009 Maison Leroy Bourgogne rouge (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. Just like its white counterpart, this wine can easily stake its position as a top village or perhaps even outperforming the premier cru of some estates, offering an abundance of ripe raspberries and dark cherries imbued with mild earthy minerality, oozing with sweet tannins throughout its length. Quite excellent.

2003 Maison Leroy Savigny-les-Beaune Les Ratausses (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. This wine is well into its secondary development, displaying an attractive complexity of savoury characters and sweet cedar throughout its length without any trace of burnt nor burliness normally associated with this commune. Good stuff.

2002 Maison Leroy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured after hours at S S ENT, 10 Sep 2015. One of the rare reds from Chassagne, this wine offers a gorgeous bouquet of camphor, red fruits, red roses and a hint of incense, highly attractive and complex, medium-bodied, displaying excellent depth, balance and well-defined minerality.  Almost approaching grand cru status. Excellent.

2014 Flametree chardonnay, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. This Margaret River white took me by surprise with its delicate citrus, white flowers and crème de la crème, generous without being over-the-top, sensibly balanced and lengthy. A bargain at SGD48.

2014 Frankland Isolation Ridge Riesling, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. Marked by a dominant and lifted note of petroleum, pleasant and fairly substantial on the palate but a tad short.

2014 Turkey Flat Butcher’s Block white, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. Made in the style of a Rhone white, this wine offers notes of nutmeg and traces of spice from its blend of marsanne, rousanne and viognier, but somewhat lean and short.

2009 Misha’s Vineyard High Note pinot noir, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. Highly aromatic with notes of rose petals, camphor and red cherries, fairly intense and assertive, ending on a minty note. Unashamedly New World but I’m not convinced by its balance.

2012 Flametree cabernet merlot,at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. This Margaret River red possesses an earthy pungency with a vegetal tone, far too one dimensional. Disappointing.

2012 Katnook cabernet sauvignon, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. Not its Odyssey flagship. Plenty of ripe red fruits producing a velvety mouthfeel with vegetal and earthy overtones, rather dry at the finish. Lacks distinction.

2003 Secret Places Barossa Shiraz, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. A fine shiraz in the Barossa tradition, medium-full, tight with plenty of plummy red fruit framed by lithe tannins. Needs time to unfold.

2013 Turkey Flat Butchers Block red, at a Crystal Wines tasting, 12 Sep 2015. Too much of vegetal and earthy forest floor character, generous proportions, almost dense but undistinguished.

1983 Silver Oak Napa Valley (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Poured from a double magnum, this beautiful wine is fully matured but still exciting, displaying a powerful glow that is slightly medicinal in character, leading to a complex of red plums, cinnamon, red fruits and overtones of sandalwood, absolutely harmonious, layered with great depth and opulence, developing an attractive pungency later on the nose. This is probably the finest example of a Californian cabernet that I’ve had. Outstanding.

1986 Ch Pape Clement (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Poured from magnum, this wine produced a powerful and intense bouquet of red fruit, dark berries, anise, ripe sweet plums and tangerine, highly promising but somewhat of a let down on the palate where it was smooth with traces of earth but lacking in weight and character.

2012 Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Poured from magnum, the wine possesses an unusual bouquet of intense lively citrus with notes of  longans, tropical fruits, grapefruit and a trace of nail polish, ending in a chromic finish amidst a hint of must and earth. I liked it.

1999 Maison Roche de Bellene Chambolle-Musigny (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Poured from magnum, this wine displayed racy aromas of red cherries and traces of enamel, let down, unfortunately, by a nondescript palate.

2004 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena 5  (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Poured from magnum. Racy and plummy from the tempranillo but somewhat unsettled, yet to unfurl its full colors.

2007 Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er (courtesy of Hsiang Sui), popped and poured at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Fresh with plenty of red fruits and some darker berries, subdued in minerality, ending with traces of spice and mint, lacking in opulence.

2013 Rockford Black Shiraz, (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Forward balance of dark cherries and raspberries but not in-your-face, well crafted and layered, the bubbles adding a further dimension to the sweet tannins. Will benefit from a few years of cellaring.

2011 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf-du-Pape (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. Fairly dense and weighty, as expected, with a solid core of ripe dark fruit and wild berries amidst other notes of earth, smoke and medicinal overtones, quite linear and focused. CdP lovers will appreciate this.

2005 Hestan Cabernet Sauvignon (courtesy of Li Fern), aired in advance at the grand opening of S S ENT, 19 Sep 2015. A big wine, no less, saturated with notes of tangerine and dark berries with a vegetal trace, still tight and structured but very well integrated and balanced.

2003 Silver Oak Alexander Valley, courtesy of Vic at his residence, 20 Sep 2015. This is a another beautiful wine from this estate, featuring a slight forward balance of red fruits and darker berries that is quite typical of the cabernet from Alexander Valley compared with its sister wine from Napa Valley, less structured, softer and more accessible with recessed tannins, just a tad stern at the finish but still very lovely, nonetheless.

1982 Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, courtesy of Kieron at Vic’s residence, 20 Sep 2015. Fully matured, this wine features the classic Pauillac character of dried tea leaves, mushrooms and wood shavings balanced against ripe dark berries and tangerine, the fruit still holding up well with sweet tannins trailing in its wake, very relaxed and open but neither as lush nor opulent compared with estates in the top tier for the same vintage. Unlikely to improve further.

2003 Barossa Valley E & E Black Pepper shiraz, popped and poured at Vic’s residence, 20 Sep 2015. The cork was truly desiccated, but the wine was, thankfully, still pristine with a forward balance of red fruits, tangerine and an exciting spark of lime in the middle, soft and plush with recessed tannins, open and layered.

2010 Ch Loudenne, at the SIA First Class lounge, Changi Airport T3, 23 Sep 2015. One of my favourite producers of the Medoc, once served on board SIA Business Class. Possesses an aromatic fragrance of ripe red fruits and dark berries but it turned out to be rather stern and monochromatic on the palate with dry dusty textures. Disappointing.

2012 Glaetzer Bishop, at the SIA First Class lounge, Changi Airport T3, 23 Sep 2015. Enticing nose recalling rich dark berries and blackcurrants. Full-bodied and warm interspersed with chocolate and spice, slightly vegetal. Lacks true complexity.

2004 Verve Clicquot, at the SIA First Class lounge, Changi Airport T3, 23 Sep 2015. Toast and yeasty overtones dominate, but far too dry and monochromatic for my liking.

2011 Joseph Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, from the restaurant list of Ma Cuisine in Beaune, 25 Sep 2015. Intense nose of red fruits and dark cherries, rather minerally and minty, well-integrated but slightly angular at the finish, not helped at all by the warm ambient temperature at this iconic restaurant. Yet to develop secondary nuances. A wasted bottle.

2003 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs, from the restaurant list of Ma Cuisine in Beaune, 25 Sep 2015. In spite of the significant bottle age, this wine is still dark with a raisiny quality, saturated with intense dark cherries amidst a spicy backdrop with trace of burnt. Lacks charm and elegance.

2010 Paul Jaboulet Aine Le Chevalier de Sterimberg, from the list of three-Michelin-starred Arpege in Paris, 28 Sep 2015. Beautiful luminous gold with rich aromas of seared caramel, buttery notes and crème de la crème, generous in the mid-body, chalky, lively with fair intensity and excellent concentration. Well-priced at EUR165.

2000 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1er, from the list of three-Michelin-starred Arpege in Paris, 28 Sep 2015. Dull red that belies a lovely effusive bouquet of red fruits and attractive earthy pungency, lively and vivacious, quite racy with a prominent minerally note, adding some tension that heightened the excitement. Wonderful. A relative bargain at EUR220.

2006 Kistler Hyde Vineyards “Carneros” chardonnay, courtesy of Li Fern at the soft launch of SS ENT, 11 Aug 2015. Possessing an almost cult-like following, this New World chardonnay is rich, minerally and creamy with a complex of citrus, melons, white flowers and traces of apricot and caramel, well-proportioned and balanced. Yet to peak, I suspect.

2006 Leflaive Mersault 1er Sous De Dos D’Ane, courtesy of Li Fern at the soft launch of SS ENT, 11 Aug 2015. An uncommon opportunity to taste an aged Mersault premiere cru, displaying fragrant aromas of fig and traces of plum, rewarding the palate with an aged sappy texture amidst a powerful glow of chalk and minerals, possessing lovely depth and balance.

2000 Ch Haut Bailly, courtesy of Li Fern at the soft launch of SS ENT, 11 Aug 2015.  This beautiful wine exhibits intense red plums and dark currants amidst traces of earth and forest notes, deep and glowing with sweet tannins and some early complexity, very smooth and well-balanced. I have a soft spot for the wines of Pessac-Leognan and this lovely example is still far from its peak.

1997 Silver Oak Napa Valley, courtesy of Li Fern at the soft launch of SS ENT, 11 Aug 2015. This iconic Californian cabernet has a forward balance of red fruits and dark currants of wonderful depth and concentration with textures that are open and layered, replete with arresting aromas of roses and red cherries. Excellent as it is, I don’t think this wine has hit its peak.

2001 Schloss Saarstein Serringer Saarsteiner riesling auslese, courtesy of Li Fern at the soft launch of SS ENT, 11 Aug 2015. As expected, this wine is imbued with the sweet intoxicating fragrance of nectarine, apricot and tropical fruits without being overbearing but, surprisingly, lacking in true complexity that usually comes most naturally with these Mosel whites.

2012 Follin Arbelet Aloxe Corton Clos du Chapitre 1er, courtesy of Vincent at Glen, 12 Aug 2015. This red from the southern end of the Cote de Nuits is rather straightforward with notes of  roses and raspberries amidst a faint trace of green, medium-bodied and somewhat short.

2012 JJ Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus, courtesy of Vincent at Glen, 12 Aug 2015. This Rhone offering displays an abundance of wild berries, earth and some vegetal trace, ultimately straightforward and four-square.

1995 Ch Boyd Cantenac, at a Glen tasting, 12 Aug 2015. At 20 years, this Margaux  lives up to expectations with a bouquet of perfumed incense and lovely fragrance, allied with a cool medium-bodied proposition of blueberries and some red fruits, slightly plummy.

2011 M Chapoutier La Bernardine, courtesy of Vincent at Glen, 12 Aug 2015. Medium-full with a racy blend of roses, red cherries and ripe wild berries with a mild herbal trace, supported by earthy minerality and sweet tannins. Very enjoyable.

2011 Schlossgut Diel Spatlese, popped and popped at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. As expected, this wine posseses a lovely mix of nectarine, apricot, peaches and melons with an enticing sweetness, beautifully proportioned and controlled without any excess, underscored by traces of intense tropical fruit, lush and unassuming. Quite superb.

2009 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fume De Pouilly (courtesy of Dr Wang KW), popped and poured at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. This Loire Valley sauvignon blanc from a cult producer possesses an unusual but highly attractive profile of apricot, green melons and sweet citrus, medium-full with plenty of fat in the mid-body, supported by subtle chalky minerality. Fascinating.

2004 David Duband Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers 1er (courtesy of Ooi CJ), popped and poured at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. This wine is drinking very beautifully now, displaying arresting aromas of red cherries, camphor and fragrant rose petals allied with great purity on the palate, possessing power, finesse and elegance in equal measure. Very lovely. A great success.

2001 Ch Sociando Mallet, aired in advance for 3 hours prior at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. I have read elsewhere that this particular wine is on par with premier cru grand vin on the palate. Indeed, this is no idle claim, for this wine is imbued with glorious ripe fruit recalling blueberries, dark currants, raspberries and a dash of dark cherries framed by lithe tannins, racy and exciting on the palate, displaying a level of richness and depth quite unprecedented for a Haut Medoc. Truly excellent, and may even rival the 2000 Sociando Mallet.

2004 Ch Ducru Beaucaillou, aired in advance for 3 hours prior at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. Very dark. Filled with an abundance of black fruits and dark currants, displaying plenty of body, concentration and depth, oozing with sweet subtle tannins, producing a highly sophisticated mouthfeel without quite the usual dryness nor graphite quality of the Saint Julien terroir. Excellent and yet to peak, of course.

1996 Ch Calon Segur, aired in advance for 3 hours prior at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. Displaying a dusky red with an evolved rim, this wine has a relaxed and open feel, featuring blueberries, ripe wild berries and a sprinkling of red cherries, noticeably dry with a hint of mushrooms and tea leaves, finishing with an after note of sweet tannins, licorice and sandalwood. At its peak, and would probably do better with proper food. You can hardly go wrong with this estate.

1990 Ch La Tour de By (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured at Glen Arden, 25 Aug 2015. Dusty and opague, but this wine is still well and alive, fully matured, its fruit recalling notes of raisins, cinnamon and roast with mild medicinal overtones, very mellow. Will not improve further.

2000 Robert Mondavi cabernet sauvignon, poured from magnum at Parkway Pantai Dinner & Dance, Marina Bay Sands, Singapore, 29 Aug 2015. Dull dusty red, proffering some medicinal character initially that soon gave way to notes of raisins, cedar, red plums and a trace of wood, medium-full, decent in layering with ripe tannins. Unlikely to improve further although this bottle may not be entirely representative, its desiccated cork possibly implying less than pristine provenance.

Krug Grande Annee Brut, courtesy of Li Wei at her baby’s first birthday, 30 Aug 2015. Heavier in golden tint than usual for a NV, this champagne was ample on the nose and palate with notes of toast, yeasty overtones and crème de la crème, weighty with excellent concentration of fruit, forward in character, its bold dryness (typical of Krug) very well balanced against the cutting acidity from the intense citrus. Most attractive, inviting sip after sip. I couldn’t put it down. Excellent.

1996 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (courtesy of WCY), aired in bottle for over an hour at Sichuan Dou Hua, Park Royal Hotel, 31 Aug 2015. Displaying a heavier tint with age, this wine possesses aromas of almonds, walnuts and cream with a sappy quality on the palate from the semillon component along with a hint of apricot and cinnamon, propped up by crisp acidity from the sauvignon blanc, ending on a metallic note.

2000 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (courtesy of WCY), popped and poured at Sichuan Dou Hua, Park Royal Hotel, 31 Aug 2015. A perennial favourite of mine, this under-rated wine has mellowed considerably, its fruit and tannins more understated than before such that its classical poise, balance and quiet elegance is all the more striking, with a touch of earth. A red specially for true connoisseurs of claret.

2000 Ch Pape Clement (courtesy of WCY), aired in bottle for over an hour at Sichuan Dou Hua, Park Royal Hotel, 31 Aug 2015. Undoubtedly more exciting and fuller in body than the preceding Domaine de Chevalier of the same vintage, probably resulting from a longer hang time and higher fruit extraction, more forward in notes of blackcurrants and ripe dark berries, framed by velvety tannins. It was interesting that it mellowed considerably after another hour, regressing towards a very harmonious and homogenous balance not unlike the Domaine de Chevalier, topped with a sweet plummy glow, but not in any way superior. In fact, the Domaine de Chevalier was the more interesting wine as time went by.

My dining experience went up another notch on 26 July 2015 when I was invited to dinner at Nicolas, now having moved a short distance from Keong Saik Road to Teck Lim Road. It is not that I have never been to Nicolas, but to be able to dine there on a Sunday when it is normally closed, opened just specially for our private function, and with the proprietor of Vega Sicilia present to pour his wines is another thing altogether. It is little wonder, therefore, that the man behind it all was none other than the great Dr S S Ngoi, celebrating the occasion of his daughter’s great success. As we gathered, the 2002 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rose was poured liberally, a dull golden glow with a rosy tint, displaying good intensity with an abundance of yeasty tones, dry but balanced, not too biting although it was not quite as layered as I’d expected.

As we settled down to dinner, the 2006 Bodegas Alion was poured from a double magnum, where half the tempranillo fruit is sourced from Vega Sicilia’s Valbuena vineyard and the other half from its own. Dusty red, this wine possessed a lifted bouquet of dark fruits and currants laced with exotic spices, succulent herbs and cedar, soft, medium-bodied and slightly backward for what is usually a robust wine, quite mellow in fact, finishing with mild tannins. A good wine, but immediately overshadowed by the 2010 Benjamin De Rothschild Vega Sicilia Macan Clasico that came next, again a 100% tempranillo but from older vines, which accounts for its dark opague purple with oversized medicinal overtones and other notes of sweet incense and cedar with remarkably open textures without being jammy in spite of its intensity.

As good as the preceding two wines were, the 2010 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena No.5, a single vineyard tempranillo, was distinctly more sophisticated, proffering notes of camphor, dark chocolate and sweet dark berries with traces of graphite and game, robust but quietly intense, very open and layered, tapering towards a lasting finish. This was the perfect build-up to the piece de resistance, a pairing of Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva. The 2007 Unico truly lived up to its reputation, displaying generous seductive aromas of sweet ripe berries, plummy red fruits and dark currants of fabulous intensity and complexity on the palate, beautifully structured, the excitement heightened by supple tannins of infinite length. Truly outstanding. In contrast, the 1987 Unico could only offer a delicious, evolved and open bouquet of red fruits and cherries but failing to live up to its promise on the palate where it was unexpectedly stern and almost bitter, quite devoid of sophistication, joy and complexity. Still, it had been a great privilege to be present at Nicolas to partake in the wonderful camaraderie that evening and I can only extend, once again, my deepest appreciation to Dr S S Ngoi.

Majella was one of the Coonawarra estates that I came to know of and love back in 2003 when I spent a sabbatical year in Adelaide, South Australia. Managed by the highly affable Brian Lynn (a.k.a. The Prof), Majella wines combine the typical heft and brawn of Aussie reds with a high level of sophistication in the winemaking. I had missed out on last year’s dinner and was glad to discover that he was back again from a whistle stop on 09 June 2015 at Meat Smith, organised by Bob Rees. The short notes below follow the exact order of the wines served.

Majella Sparkling Brut NV. Fresh and lively with an abundance of citrus and lime of excellent intensity, well-balanced against the clear minerality without yeasty overtones. Very successful.

2008 Majella Sparkling Shiraz. Good depth of sweet raspberries with overtones of licorice, medicinal herbs and a trace of liquer, linear and attractive without any pretensions. Very enjoyable but the complexity of its Rockford counterpart.

2012 Majella Musician cabernet shiraz. Straightforward with notes of forest floor and heated stones, predictably spicy and finishing in an alcoholic trail.

2003 Majella Shiraz. In spite of significant bottle age, this cool region shiraz is still peppery and spicy, perhaps a reflection of the heat wave that year, packed with glorious fruit of excellent concentration with traces of enamel.

2009 Majella Shiraz. The wine is infinitely better on the nose where notes of vanilla and ripe wild berries and cherries dominate, rich and spicy but still undeveloped on the palate.

2013 Majella Shiraz. Surprisingly open for a current vintage with less of vanilla than expected, spicy and polished, lacking true distinction at this stage.

2003 Majella cabernet sauvignon. Supposedly the calling card of this estate, but the 2003, whilst ripe with notes of tangerine, plums and spice, is significantly leafy in character as well with alcohol levels that are too easily discernible. Not particularly distinguished. Disappointing.

2009 Majella cabernet sauvignon. Very smooth with notes of redcurrants, bramble and wild berries of good weight, but it lacks depth and layering, still undeveloped and primal. Needs time.

2013 Majella cabernet sauvignon. Unfortunately, recent vintages of Majella’s cabernet seemed a bit too generic, featuring ripe black fruits, warm and smooth with notes of creamy enamel, earthy forest floor and vegetal traces but lacking in layering. Needs more character.

1998 Majella Malleea. This is the estate’s flagship cabernet/shiraz blend in almost equal proportions. Surprisingly, I could not coax anything out of the 1998, still coming across as undifferentiated, hot and spicy, most unlike the straight cabernet of the same vintage (below). Disappointing.

2003 Majella Malleea. Notes of forest floor, wild berries and bramble with good concentration of fruit, spicy at the finish but, somehow, unable to shake off a distinct vegetal trace that seems to pervade the majority of these wines.

2010 Majella Malleea. This wine is much more successful than its preceding peers, bursting with ultra-ripe dark fruits in a state of controlled hedonism, yet to shed its vanillin oak, warm and seamless and linear all the way to its great plummy finish. There’s a great future ahead for this wine. .

To cap the evening, I decided to donate a bottle of the 1998 Majella cabernet sauvignon to those on my table, including The Prof and Bob, my only remaining bottle of this wine that I had cellared for the past ten years. True to form, it demonstrated a different style of Majella that seems to be rather elusive nowadays, featuring glorious dark fruits and currants of excellent depth from that fabulous vintage in Coonawarra, now imbued with cedar, smoke and other secondary nuances, framed by well-defined tannins that seemed to indicate that this wine, amazingly, has yet to peak. Truly a beautiful example of what can be achieved with this terra rossa terroir.

2004 Henri Abele, popped and poured over dim sum at Jade Palace, 01 June 2015. With a lovely luminous glow, this champagne displayed an initial forward balance of intense citrus, lime and green melons, firm and minerally with an appropriate degree of dryness. It took another hour before it developed further depth and complexity with powerful aromas of toasty oak, yeast and malt coming on. A bargain at SGD70.

2012 Domaine Sylvain Cholet Bourgogne, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Highly attractive bouquet, positively glowing with plenty of floral characters with the fragrance of white flowers and lovely soft citrus on the palate. Zesty and lively. Well-priced at SGD38, which is very good value for such an excellent vintage.

2000 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Mersault “Charmes” 1er, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Another good ‘un, fairly pungent on the nose with sweet floral notes by the side, displaying silky textures with an attractive richness on the mid-palate that’s sometimes missing in so many of the wines of this commune, imparting a sophisticated mouthfeel. Quite excellent but pricey.

2013 Domaine Jouard Chassagne-Montrachet “Chaumees – Clos Truffiere” 1er, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Muted on the nose although traces of enamel and sweet incense are discernible. However, this wine is too linear and one-dimensional at this stage, somewhat thin and lacking in personality. Needs plenty of time to develop.

2008 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Mersault “Les Rougeots”, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Not premier cru but a named village wine, rich and minerally with a hint of apricot and traces of vanilla, supple and pliant, finishing with great length and finesse. At SGD70, not exactly a bargain though.

2008 Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis “Les Preuses” Grand Cru, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. You would not have known this is a grand cru if it had been tasted blind, for this wine came across as flinty and firm, its aromas clouded by dense smoky incense, lacking in complexity and depth. At SGD108, it makes the preceding Mersault “Les Rougeots” (above) from the same vintage seem like an absolute bargain.

2008 Domaine Jacques Cacheux Echezeaux Grand Cru, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Sounds promising, but the initial impression was seriously off-putting, thanks to powerful aromas of anti-septic, most unusual, coupled with notes of red cherries within a medium-bodied wine that was lacking in weight. I was about to write off this wine when it took on a significant transfiguration, becoming more feminine and elegant although I’m still unconvinced that it deserves to be an Echezeaux.

2011 Domaine Jacques Cacheux Echezeaux Grand Cru, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. This more recent vintage of Echezeaux from the same domaine, priced even higher, is no better – far too medicinal in flavour and too bland in character. I’m not impressed.

2006 Paixia Mencia, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. A full-bodied blockbuster, bursting with ripe raspberries and wild berries with a plummy afterglow, still youthful with traces of enamel.

2011 Macan, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Deep purple. I thought this would be another huge effort, but it was surprisingly open with notes of violets and ripe blueberries and raspberries though somewhat characterless on the palate, tapering off too quickly, a case where the wine is better on the nose.

2005 El Belisario, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Deep purple. Another blockbuster loaded with ultra-ripe fruit and overtones of heated gravel and dew, its vanillin oak still discernible even after ten years, imparting some sweetness in the tannins at the short finish. Almost hedonistic.

2007 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Puligny-Montrachet “Champ Gain” 1er, aired in advance at Tunglok Signatures, Orchard Parade Hotel, courtesy of Dr S S Ngoi, 02 June 2015. Surprisingly good, offering good concentration of pungent citrus, firm and minerally, lingers at the finish. Still undeveloped.

2011 Pigaro Amarone della Valpolicella (courtesy of Ben), popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 10 June 2015. As expected, this is a full-bodied red saturated with dark fruits and black currants with some bright notes, almost dense, coating the palate with broad swathes of vanilla and cedar, supported by firm ferrous minerality that imparted a steely finish.

1994 Ch Angelus, decanted on-site at Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel Singapore, 11 June 2015, on the occasion of our 21st anniversary. This was a bottle personally autographed by M. Hubert De La Forest several years back when he visited Singapore. Still displaying a fairly deep purple, this wine gave off a most attractive pungency on the nose amidst other aromas of sweet meat, almost complex in itself. Very good levels of raspberries and dark currants saturate the palate with open textures, well-matched against the salty minerality, framed by velvety tannins with just a hint of rusticity that left a puckered sensation on the tongue, a tad short at the finish, missing in opulence and voluptuousness. A classic example proving how the deficiencies of 1994 have been overblown. Quite excellent.

2013 Pio Cesare Gavi (courtesy of Vic) from the restaurant list at Pasta Brava, 16 June 2015. Made from cortese grape in Piedmonte, this wine displayed an abundance of citrus, apples, melons and morning dew, fairly intense and aromatic and lively on the palate, more forward with further notes of honeysuckle after some time. Very good.

2004 Carpineto Vigneto Poggio Sant’ Enrico Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, decanted on-site at Pasta Brava, 16 June 2015. Though somewhat reserved on the nose, this single vineyard offering is generous with an abundance of black fruits and dark plums of fabulous intensity, structured with sweet ripe controlled tannins, yielding some early complexity with traces of smoke and wild berries coming on later. Excellent.

1999 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Dull golden and reserved with just traces of vanilla and white flowers. It took quite some time before it began opening up, showing some bite and intensity, more ample in body, delicate in minerality, displaying good acidity and balance, ending with a mild steely finish. Not quite as lush nor racy as I’d have expected. In fact, slightly disappointing. Desmond got it right.

2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatieres” 1er (courtesy of Zhuo Neng), tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Luscious gold, displaying excellent balance, acidity and structure right off the blocks with notes of caramel, honeysuckle and almonds enhanced by the clear minerality, mellow at first but gradually building up to excellent intensity. Almost everyone guessed its origin correctly although the relatively recent vintage took us by surprise.

2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges “Les Roncieres” (courtesy of Hsien Min), tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Dull red with a gentle pungency, dominated by cherries and dark berries that exuded powerful notes of rose petals and camphor with a quiet intensity, ample and fairly masculine on the palate, developing some racy bright spots and plummy notes over time. Excellent. Desmond nailed the commune.

1997 Dominique Laurent Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (courtesy of Elizabeth), tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Brownish red. A complex of sweet ripe berries and cedar, remarkably open and sweet, wonderful aromas on the nose, generous but soft and feminine on the palate, its power having mellowed over time but still retaining excellent acidity and balance. Delicious. Most of us got down to the commune.

2004 Louis Jadot Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru (courtesy of Desmond), tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Probably the least commonly encountered amongst the four grand crus of Morey-Saint-Denis. This wine was already much evolved, exuding a floral bouquet of rose petals, tangerine and kumquat along with red cherries. However, it seemed rather reserved on the palate, suitably complex with dominant notes of mulberries and red fruits but feminine and shy. I called Clos des Tart, which is just immediately adjacent.

2002 Pol Roger Extra Cuvee de Reserve (courtesy of Andrew), tasted blind at Ubin Seafood, 18 June 2015. Dry, balanced, yeasty, its excellent acidity offset by the firm minerality, somewhat stern at the finish.

2011 Coldstream Hills Reserve chardonnay, popped over pizza delivery at home, 21 June 2015. This highly-rated Yarra Valley chardonnay offers floral notes on the nose, predominantly of pomelo citrus, whilst it is still firm, minerally and tight on the palate, its crisp acidity imparting stern steely demeanour. Pitted blind against a burgundy, it may measure up to a Chassagne-Montrachet premiere cru. Needs time.

2008 Vieux Chateau Mazerat, popped and poured at Prive, 23 June 2015. This turned out to be surprisingly good, conjuring up notes of mint, violets, red fruits and dark berries against the classic dry backdrop of a claret, carrying excellent depth of fruit with open textures, slightly racy, well-balanced and rounded, delicious and succulent, finishing with great length. Very fine indeed. Snap this up if the price is right.

2005 Winemaker’s Collection Episode One, popped and poured at Foster’s, 27 June 2015. This was the inaugural vintage for a parcel of vines of Ch D’Arsac from the Margaux commune to be specially vinified by Michel Rolland, and I had previously drunk through an entire case with great satisfaction. Ten years on from vintage, this wine carries a leading note of violets on the nose and cedar on the palate, medium-bodied, supple and fairly well-integrated, suitably structured with eventual notes of red plums, mushrooms and tea leaves filtering through, neither lush nor deep but, thankfully, without any oakiness. But, to be honest, I was hoping for more depth of fruit and concentration, given the outstanding vintage and the credentials of the winemaker.

2000 Ch Malescot St-Exupery (courtesy of John), decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 30 June 2015. Dark and saturated with ripe dark berries but rather unsettled during the first 30 minutes, medium-bodied, somewhat uneven and finishing with a bold ferrous character, most unlike a Margaux. It broadened out over time, becoming more expansive and even, acquiring a rich plummy tone, very good in concentration and depth, slightly dry, but still lacking in ultimate distinction.

It’s definitely harder for everyone to meet up these days as family and work commitments seem to take precedence over social life, as evidenced by the fact that only 6 of us could make it for what was only Bacchus’ second meeting for the year on 26 May 2015 at Yan Ting, St Regis Hotel, Singapore, where the excellent Bruce Lee had customised a menu for us in its spacious private room.

We began the evening with a Clos du Chateau De Bligny, Cuvee 6 Cepages, a unique champagne made from a blend of six grapes: pinot noir, chardonnay,  arbane, pinot blanc, petit meslier and  pinot meunier. Light golden with yeasty overtones and a clear minerally base, this wine was significantly lighter in body compared with the usual suspects for champagne, stern and steely, lacking in extended depth and layering. It eventually gained some weight over time, smoothening out, becoming more nutty with a rich tone of almonds. An unusual champagne that may not be to everyone’s liking. We followed on with a 2002 Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru that was suitably rich in lime and yellow citrus with a top note of creme de crème, displaying further notes of caramel and nutmeg on the mid-body, surprisingly ample for a Louis Latour without its signature leafy elements although I’d say it is still a notch below the efforts of Leflaive.

We kicked off the reds with a rare gem courtesy of Chris, a 1969 Domaine Grivelet Chambolle-Musigny 1er, still very much alive, displaying a fully-evolved nose of menthol and herbal characters allied with dark roses, cherries and sweet incense, gentle, rounded and pure on the palate, holding on till the end of dinner. Truly remarkable.

Staying with Chambolle, a pair of 1996 Comte de Vogue was pitted against each other, a Chambolle-Musigny “Les Amoureuses” 1er versus a Chambolle-Musigny Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, both sourced directly from the cellars of this venerable estate, courtesy of Li Fern. True to character, the Amoureuses, in spite of its wonderful fruit of rich dark cherries, was more feminine, sporting aromas of rose petals and camphor, medium-full and supple with traces of spice, a tad short at the finish. In contrast, the Bonnes Mares was a bigger wine altogether, the aromas of ripe red cherries more powerful,  distinctly darker, deeper and more penetrating on a bed of salty minerality, finishing with great length. Truly masculine. A fascinating study.

Moving north to the tiny commune of Morey-Saint-Denis, we paired the 2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (courtesy of Kieron) with the 1998 Clos des Tart Grand Cru (courtesy of Pipin). Again, true to form, for it is northmost and closest to Gevrey-Chambertin, the Ponsot Clos de la Roche was arresting in its floral aromas, possessing great depth, power and structure from the ripe fruit with notes of redcurrants, cherries and tangerine, very well integrated, masculine and youthful still. Simply glorious.  In contrast, the famous monopoly of Clos des Tart, at the extreme southern end of Morey-Saint-Denis, was narrower in spectrum although it boasted a fabulous bouquet of camphor, incense and vanillin allied with great power, linearity and intensity on the palate, less structured and, hence, more feminine. Wonderful stuff.

As usual, someone would get it all wrong, and so we ended up with an oddity in the form of a 2007 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru (courtesy of Hiok) but no one is complaining, for this wine demonstrates why Clos de Beze is on par with Le Chambertin: glorious fruit of ripe cherries and raspberries and redcurrants, wonderful in depth, power and intensity with overtones of glycerine, smoke and traces of burnt, structured with ripe tannins, just a dash ferrous and minerally at the finish. And, to end, a 1983 Ch D’Yquem (courtesy of David) that displayed a heavy honeyed tone, rich in apricot and nectar, lush with immense intensity and concentration of tangerine and orange peel, its fresh acidity ensuring many more years of life ahead.