Carpineto Grandi Vini di Toscana
These notes came from a SMA Wine Chapter dinner at Gattopardo on 05 May 2015, featuring the wines of Carpineto Grandi Vini di Toscana with its proprietor Antonio Mario Zaccheo, who had founded this estate in 1967, in attendance. Carpineto prides itself in wine-making that expresses the terroir truthfully instead of trying to please the palates of wine judges, and I must admit to having a soft spot for this estate. 
We began with the 2013 Carpineto Dagojolo Bianco, made from a blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and grechetto, grassy with notes of morning dew, white flowers and soft citrus, not too crisp, easy on the palate but suitably intense in the mid-body, its balanced acidity tapering towards a lasting finish. I found it refreshing without being too straightforward.
Once we’re seated at the table, the 2008 Carpineto Brunello di Montalcino was poured, made from 100% sangiovese aged 3 years in barrel. This wine was dark purple with an attractive earthy pungency on the nose that yielded a good concentration of ripe raspberries and wild berries with traces of enamel and camphor and a dash of forest floor, its tight velvety tannins gripping the palate with controlled intensity right through to its spicy finish. Predictably though, this Brunello is still very youthful and will, no doubt, develop very well by the end of this decade. Keep. Next up was a 1997 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva, poured from magnum, featuring sweet medicinal aromas with herbal overtones and leafy elements from the ripe fruit, stern in demeanour, evolving towards notes of tangerine and orange peel after a couple of hours, finishing with a dash of spice and sweet tannins. ![20150505_202336[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/20150505_2023361.jpg)
This would be drinking very well on its own but, paired with the powerful Brunello in this instance, it was somewhat underwhelming and four-square.
Next came the highly-anticipated highlight of this evening, the series of wines from the famous Vino Nobile di Montepulciano of this estate, led by a single vineyard bottling of the 2004 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto di Poggio Sant’ Enrico. Deep purple, this wine possessed a lovely complex bouquet that was highly aromatic, delivering a wine of immense concentration and fabulous intensity, structured and taut with a lovely tension on the palate, displaying excellent definition, linearity and wonderful length. Still remarkably youthful, worthy of many more years of patient cellaring. After this, the 2009 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva exhibited superb pungency with an abundance of redcurrants, darkcurrants and dark roses, naturally tight and intense at this stage but beautifully structured and long, promising plenty of potential for the long haul. The 1997 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva was dark and seamless, featuring a beautiful bouquet with black fruits of glorious depth and intensity, sparkling with spots of graphite, superbly structured. A wine of great length and power at its absolute peak, simply marvellous, earning my vote for Wine Of The Night. On the other hand, the 1988 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva was very open and mellow with a seductive beautiful glow that’s only possible from the Old World, its acidity and structure still intact although the fruit was somewhat uneven across the palate, suggesting that it has passed its peak. The evening concluded with a 1996 Carpineto Farnito Vinsanto del Chianti, lowish in acidity, almost port-like in texture with copious notes of cinnamon and peaches. Many thanks to the SMA Wine Chapter and to Ms Jo Hung of Oaks Cellars for making this evening possible.
1970 Vina Albina Bodegas Riojanas Cenicero Gran Riserva (courtesy of Hiok) at Prive, 01 Apr 2015. Dusty dirty brown. Pretty decent nose of heavy medicinal and herbal aromas typical of Ryoja but there is hardly any fruit remaining, just a shell of citrus and acidity. Dying.
2009 Pauillac by Wine Society UK (courtesy of John) at Prive, 01 Apr 2015. Dark, medium-full, slightly tarry, saturated with ripe dark berries of excellent intensity and concentration, linear with traces of enamel and cedar, developing further notes of heated stones and violets over time, but lacking in lushness. Very enjoyable, nonetheless.
1999 Ch Angelus, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 03 Apr 2015, on the occasion of Monster’s 16th. Deep purple, displaying a complex nose of plum, cassis, bramble, sweet wild berries, spice and blueberries. Distinctly medium-bodied, good concentration on the palate with a fair bit of intensity, cloaked in supple tannins but cannot hide the wet harvest robbing it of lushness and charm before it regained confidence, putting on considerable weight and fullness after some time with a burst of cedar and sweet dark currants.
Laurent Perrier Brut NV, over lunch with old friends at Iggy’s, 17 April 2015. This champagne is quite excellent, delivering notes of smoky toast and sweet citrus with great definition, aided by crisp acidity against a background of firm minerality, generous in fruit of excellent depth.
2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (courtesy of D), over lunch with old friends at Iggy’s, 17 April 2015. This classic white was slightly leafy with notes of fresh morning dew on the nose although it seemed rather restrained and shut initially. It blossomed into a lovely expanse of perfumed white flowers with time, distinctly medium-bodied but layered with an attractive oily texture in the mid-body. Likely to develop at a glacial pace. Best to leave alone another 5 years, at least.
2011 Ballot Millot et Fils Mersault Charmes 1er Cru, a glass offered by Iggy himself for blind-tasting over lunch with old friends at Iggy’s, 17 April 2015. I deduced correctly from the extreme pallor, leafy characters and narrow spectrum of citrus that it was likely to be a Mersault premier cru. Delicate in poise but could do with greater fullness.
2000 Domaine Serafin Pere et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru (courtesy of D) over lunch with old friends at Iggy’s, 17 April 2015. Fully evolved, slightly lowish in acidity, generous in blueberries and red fruits with lovely complexity and understated minerality, sweet at the sides, almost lush, quietly vibrant and intense.
1995 Michel Gaunoux Beaune, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Rose scented, displaying highly satisfactory aromatics and good level of fruit, very minerally, veering towards saltiness and plummy characters, seamless and open but thinning towards the finish. Apparently a declassified premier cru, but I’d say it has slipped past its peak and will not improve further.
2012 Bruno Clavelier Vosne Romanee La Combe-Brulee 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Displaying a darker profile with an attractive pungency, delivering excellent depth of fruit with the fragrances of tropical fruits and lychee, most unusual in that aspect but well-integrated. Quintessentially burgundian. Quite excellent.
2012 Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Again darker with a youthful exuberance, proffering an exotic bouquet of roses, dark fruits and a tinge of green, ripe and warm on the palate with overtones of smoke, gravel and spice adding immeasurably to a highly satisfying mouthfeel. Nevertheless, I still preferred the La Combe-Brulee above.
1997 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Earthy and vegetal with inadequate plummy fruit, rather uneven, showing up the deficiencies of the weak vintage that even the sweet tannins cannot quite help.
1998 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Compared with the 1997, the following vintage produced a fuller and sweeter wine that is mildly medicinal on the nose but rather flat and devoid of character on palate.
2001 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Still dark in color with fruit that reflects tangerine, kumquat and red plums, underscored by notes of cedar and firm minerality, slightly angular and lacking true complexity.
1995 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Rugiens Les Rugiens Bas 1er Cru,at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Minerally with a slightly sweet medicinal note and stuffed with plummy fruit that seems to be a regular feature of this estate’s wines, finishing on a stern note. On the whole rather placid and undistinguished.
2001 Michel Gaunoux Corton Renardes Grand Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Oh dear…the fruit here is drying out badly, imparting a rather dry character. Avoid.
2007 Michel Gaunoux Pommard Rugiens 1er Cru, at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Alarmingly evolved in color and tone for its relative youth, the wine a one-dimensional concoction of sweet incense and rose cordial. Undistinguished.
1994 Dominus (courtesy of S S Ngoi) poured from magnum at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. This beautiful wine displays an attractive pungency with a fabulous intensity of dark tangerine, dark fruits and blueberries framed by lithe supple tannins that lead to an open, complex and spicy finish. Yet to peak. Superb.
2010 Ch Guiraud (courtesy of S S Ngoi), at Pudong Kitchen, 24 April 2015. Highly promising, saturated with peaches, melons, pineapples and other tropical fruits, quite and placid at the moment. Clearly yet to develop and may shut down soon. Keep.
1982 Joseph Perrier Fils et Cie (courtesy of Augustine Kum), poured from magnum at Jade Palace, 25 April 2015. It was good to bump into Auggie again and very kind of him to give me a generous pour of this fabulous champagne that’s apparently only bottled in large format, all the better for this 33-year-old is still remarkably fresh and vibrant with complex flavours of frangipani, barley, rock melon, pomelo and clear citrus against a backdrop of subdued minerality and other yeasty overtones, finishing with an attractive steeliness. No wonder William and Kate chose it for their wedding. Outstanding.
2000 Ch Bellisle Mondotte, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 25 April 2015. Deep dark purple with notes of graphite and dark berries with a vegetal trace, oozing with attractive sweet tannins at the side, becoming more aromatic and plummy over time with emerging notes of cedar. Very good, but still tight and far from peaking. Has a long life ahead.
2009 Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos, popped and poured at Prive, 28 April 2015. From one of the top biodynamic producers of Loire Valley, this wine displayed a deep dark red saturated with ripe raspberries and dark currants and a dash of wild berries with overtones of cedar and mild herbal characters, medium-full and firm on the palate with good depth of fruit that is forward yet pliant, framed by sweet tannins. A good drop.
2009 Ch Le Doyenne, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 30 April 2015. This must be my fourth or fifth bottle over nine months, all tasted with consistent notes. Very dark, saturated with ripe black fruits and layered with redcurrants topped with a sprinkling of graphite, displaying solid depth and concentration yet open and supple in texture without being monolithic, all for only SGD45. Punches way above its weight. Excellent.
An evening with S S Ngoi: 1998 Angelus, 2000 Pichon Baron, 1982 Leoville-Poyferre, 1988 Clos de Tart, 1982 Leoville Las-Cases…
Thanks to the generosity of Dr S S Ngoi again, I was invited to a dinner hosted by him at Tunglok Signatures at Orchard Parade Hotel, Singapore, on 27 April 2015 that included M. Philippe Capdouze, Founder and Chairman of FICOFI. Almost all wines were provided by the great Dr Ngoi himself, making sure that they were aired or decanted well in advance and that there was more than enough to go around the big table of twelve.
We began with a magnum of Verve Cliquot Brut Yellow Label which must have benefitted from the large format bottling, for this champagne displayed far greater depth and balance than I have encountered before from this label, forward in zesty citrus and ripe melons that balanced nicely against the moderate degree of dryness, enhanced by lovely notes of toast and yeasty pungency, appropriately steely towards the finish. 
This was followed by a pair of 2012 Ch Cos D’Estournel Blanc, made predominantly of sauvignon blanc and a splash of semillon. This youthful white exuded an abundance of glycerin, coconut and petroleum fumes that I found particularly attractive, smooth and rounded with further notes of seared caramel emerging much later that went very well with the caviar-topped lobster and shark’s fin soup.
We kicked off the list of distinguished reds with a pair of 1994 Ch Leoville Poyferre, displaying a beautiful hallowed glow of red fruits and darker currants so fabulous that one could simply go on without sipping the wine. On the palate, this medium-bodied wine was seamless and open with the graphite tone of Saint Julien being particularly prominent, just lacking in lushness and short at the finish. This is a red that will do very well at any meal, showing just how severely under-rated 1994 is.
Next up was a magnum of 1988 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, procured by Philippe directly from the cellar of this famous domaine and transported personally to our dining table. 
This stellar wine, just one of nine monopole grand crus in Burgundy (according to the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne), proffered a glorious bouquet of red fruits and rose petals coupled with great purity of fruit and depth on the palate, its power mellowed by the passage of time to be replaced by wonderful finesse and balance, its acidity still holding up very well, just slightly short at the finish, providing a taste of what the best of Morey-Saint-Denis can achieve.
We moved back to Bordeaux, albeit the Right Bank, with a pair of Ch Angelus from the outstanding vintage of 1998, displaying a deep inky purple, loaded with a generous abundance of ripe merlot of fabulous intensity, its velvety supple tannins imparting great structure to the wine, achieving excellent linearity and definition all the way to its lasting finish. Yet, the impression is that this wine is still far from peaking. Superb.
Hopping back across the Dordogne, we moved on to a pair of the 2000 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron, very dark in color, displaying loads of blueberries and dark currants, now starting to develop some early complexity with notes of cinnamon and dark plums, medium-full, beautifully structured and masculine, still laced with traces of enamel that painted a stern finish without much of the dryness of Pauillac.
And, finally, a pair of delectable Saint Julien. The 1982 Ch Leoville Poyferre gave off a powerful earthy pungency on the nose (some thought the wine corked but it definitely wasn’t) that blew off after some time, revealing a medium-bodied wine that was utterly seamless although this bottle seemed much more evolved than previous examples of the 1982 Poyferre that I’ve had, much lighter in texture and weight than before. Is this an issue of poor provenance or is it really beginning to thin out? Will reserve judgement here. Suitably though, the piece de resistance was provided by the 1982 Ch Leoville Las-Cases (courtesy of Miah Hiang), a deep garnet red rimmed by vermillion, having mellowed significantly from a previous bottle tasted six years ago, much softer than before but still imbued with the graphite and ferrous quality of its famous terroir with notes of ripe raspberries and the indescribable complexity of aged Bordeaux, quietly masculine in character with great purity and definition. Some commented whether it really merits 100 points but, like I’ve mentioned before, it is what is in the bottle that truly matters and, as far as I’m concerned, Leoville Las-Cases belongs under premier cru, bringing the evening to a wonderful end. Thank you again, Dr Ngoi.
An Italian affair
Andrea Agnelli of the Italian Wine Club, Singapore, was very kind to invite me to dinner at Table At Seven, where it was good to see Eugenia and Karl still going strong, on 01 Apr 2015. This event also coincided with the visit of wine journalist Riccardo Gabriele all the way from Milan, who introduced the wines.
We began the evening with a series of aperitifs, starting with the 2013 Manicardi Vigna Ca’del Fiore, a sparkling red made from lambrusco grapes, very deep in purple with the fizz just barely perceptible, giving off an attractive earthy pungency amidst predominant notes of raspberries, very pleasant but straightforward. Next was the 2013 Sileno Ciliegiolo, made from 100% ciliegiolo red grape varietal from Toscana, weighty with notes of earth and forest floor, generous in ripe wild berries though a vegetal trace was evident, somewhat short at the finish, the sort of agreeable casual wine that would make a lot of people happy. ![20150401_184347[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401_1843471.jpg)
Then came the 2013 Alliata Lorlando, displaying a lovely ruby but of which I misplaced my notes and subsequently couldn’t find any information about, suffice to say though that it carried an abundance of sweet raspberries and cherries with overtones of forest floor and heated gravel, forward in character but soft and accessible. Ultimately, though, too straightforward in style. This was followed by the 2012 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a region that I admire, bright purple with ultra-ripe sangiovese fruit hinting at some sweetness though it turned out to be rather stern on the palate, leading towards a mild tannic attack at the finish. It may seem straightforward at this stage, but this will be a long-lived wine. And, finally, the 2006 Colle Santa Mustiola Poggio Ai Chiari, another wine made from 100% sangiovese, full-bodied, dark with fabulous intensity, layered with cedar and traces of tangerine that contributed to some degree of complexity, well-balanced and structured. This wine can take its place on any table.
We finally sat down for dinner that showed off Karl’s forte in Indonesian-inspired cuisine while the juice continued flowing, starting with a 2013 Terenzuola Fosso Di Corsano Superiore, a white made from 100% vermentino grape, pale straw-coloured, displaying strong grassy elements that blew off to reveal more lifted and intense notes, its subdued acidity contributing to a remarkable degree of restraint, yet persistent at the finish. ![20150401_200240[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/20150401_2002401.jpg)
Next, the 2011 Pagani de Marchi Merlot Cada Nocera was deep, dark and highly intense, giving off a powerful bouquet of ultra-ripe spicy dark and wild berries, almost hedonistic but controlled, becoming livelier and more balanced with time. The 2010 Valdonica Saragio that followed was probably my favourite of the evening, made from 100% sangiovese that imparted a cheerful bouquet of red fruits and cherries, rounded and highly accessible with a marked semblance to Barbaresco, distinctly feminine in spite of the 14.5% abv which, thankfully, was very expertly managed. The 2010 Cantina Fratelli Pardi Montefalco Sacrantino, made from 100% sagratino grapes at a whooping 15.5% abv, imparted a very dark and dry demeanour, hinting at dried mushrooms and other vegetal characters, powerful and tannic. The 2010 Peter Becoucini Vigna Alle Nicchie displayed excellent depth of bright red fruits, the tangerine and plummy characters betraying its tempranillo grape varietal, weighty and layered, ending in a long minty finish.
At the end of it all, I still don’t think I’ve got my head around all the various regions and grapes of Italy. There’s plenty of tasting and reading to be done in order to attain some decent level of understanding. My thanks to Andrea and Riccardo for the lovely evening.
2007 Wicks Estate Eminence shiraz cabernet, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 02 Mar 2015. Dark red. Generous nose of ripe berries and raisins. Dense, but not unctuous, saturating the palate with notes of licorice, red plums and dark cherries well integrated with a hint of enamel and a dash of tangerine and melons, smooth without any jarring angularity, approaching some sort of controlled hedonism. Surprisingly good.
2013 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages, popped and poured at home over pasta, 03 Mar 2015. Notes of lime and pomelo in abundance but steely in character, almost bitter, supported by crystalline minerality that imparted an overall impression of leanness. Lacks charm. I much prefer the 2012.
1997 Michel Gaunoux Corton-Renardes Grand Cru, popped and poured at Foo House, 07 Mar 2015. A shade darker than expected with predominant notes of raisins and cinnamon and a certain medicinal quality matched by firm earthy minerality. One-dimensional and unyielding.
NV Cheurlin Noellat Coeur de Familie Blanc de Noir, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015. Fresh complex citrus, possessing excellent depth, smoky with notes of toast and yeast, fairly deep and chalky. Highly attractive.
2007 R&V Bereche Cote Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs disgorged 2014, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015. Sweet and highly intense with notes of white flowers and white pepper, fascinating on the nose, promising lots of complexity. That didn’t quite come through on the palate although the depth of fruit was excellent with plenty of yeast and toasty characters, very well balanced.
2012 Mongeard Mugneret Fixin,at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015 . From the north of the Cotes de Nuits. Surprisingly good with notes of fresh raspberries and cherries, medium-bodied, well balanced against the minerality without any vegetal overtones, linear, slightly simple but attractive.
2012 Gerard Mugneret Vosne Romanee, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015. Ripe dark cherries, more subtle but deeper that the Fixin above, more minerally as well, slightly darker in tone but the balance is excellent. Not cheap though for a village.
2012 Duroche Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Champeaux, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015 Bright cherries, minerally, well-balanced but somewhat simple. Not quite befitting of premiere cru.
2012 Hetedtyn-Mazzini Gevrey Chambertin 1er Goulots, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015. Apparently difficult to source but i don’t quite understand the fuss, the wine sweet and aromatic but simple.
2008 Jean Marc Bouley Pommard 1er Rugiens, at a WEA tasting, 08 Mar 2015. Appropriately for Pommard, this wine was notably deeper and heavier with more presence and fat compared to all the above reds in the tasting line-up, slightly chewy, carrying good weight and intensity. Not too heavy for Pommard but it needs more time.
2004 Domaine de Chevalier (courtesy of John), decanted at Prive Grill, 10 Mar 2015. This wine is slightly fruit forward, offering a good concentration of dark berries with overtones of orange peel and tangerine and the occasional bright spot framed by lithe supple tannins, suitably intense on the palate, structured but somewhat lean in demeanour, lacking in mid-body fat. Still far from peaking. Keep.
2008 Ch Rauzan-Segla, decanted at Otto Ristorante, 18 Mar 2015. Generous notes of dark cherries, wild berries and mocha on the nose but distinctly medium-bodied and lean on the palate with a slight vegetal trace though its tannins are undeniably supple and attractive.
2013 Black Cottage Marlborough pinot noir, bought off the list of Spathe, 24 Mar 2015. Popped and poured. Saturated with ripe dark cherries and raspberries with traces of enamel, displaying great intensity and concentration on the palate but not too heavy, lightening up considerably over time, becoming more open. Straightforward but passable as a table wine.
2005 Amon Ra, decanted for an hour prior to tasting at Spathe, 24 Mar 2015. As expected, this is quite a monster, a big wine, very forward, saturated with warm ultra ripe Barossa fruit with notes of red plums and olives and forest floor, shrouded by a dense blanket of medicinal overtones. Undeniably hedonistic. Highly attractive at first, but I found it difficult to drink beyond half a bottle, not helped by its warm alcoholic trail.
2008 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Des Issarts 1er, courtesy of Li Fern at his residence, 01 Feb 2015. There are notes of bright cherries amidst the mild salty minerality but, overall, this wine was disappointing, far too subdued and restrained, leaving a sense of hollowness. Could do with greater body. Certainly not up to premiere cru standards.
2008 Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees 1er, courtesy of Li Fern at his residence, 01 Feb 2015. An interesting comparison to the above wine, both from the same producer and vintage and both hailing from adjacent communes, but Les Fuees is a better known vineyard and it shows. This wine is darker with a quiet intensity on the nose. Medium-full on the palate, it displays a good concentration of attractive red fruits well balanced against the classic burgundian minerality, blossoming very nicely over time, developing a sweet intensity at the finish. It cannot match a Comte de Vogue in power or refinement, but this is quite satisfying on its own.
2008 Kistler Vineyard Sonoma County, courtesy of Li Fern at his residence, 01 Feb 2015. Slightly darker than usual for pinot, offering attractive notes of rose petals and camphor with good concentration and attractive intensity with some spice box coming through at the finish after some time, though it remained somewhat short at the finish.
2010 Williams Selyem Russian Valley, courtesy of Li Fern at his residence, 01 Feb 2015. Another New World pinot that has attained cult status, although initial impressions weren’t promising, displaying a powerful sweet bouquet with more than a passing semblance to port, though veering away on the palate towards notes of camphor and red fruits, excellent in concentration and intensity yet open in texture. It took on an additional hint of sour plum after some time, becoming very burgundian, just a tad upfront. Very good, if you can find it.
2011 Majella Cabernet Sauvignon, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 04 Feb 2015. Discounted to SGD39, I could not resist trying this wine as I have a soft spot for this estate, having visited it as far back as 2003, and its 1998 vintage is fabulous. Typically for an Aussie red, this wine was big, sharp and tannic, imbued with a density of red and dark currants, leafy characters and a distinct ferrous aftertaste that seemed to recall the ferric sub-soil of Coonawarra. In that sense, it may have succeeded in delivering its terroir, but this is spoilt by excessive spiciness at the finish and I cannot say that I enjoyed this wine at this stage. At that price point, you are better off sticking with Bordeaux cru bourgeois from 2005 or 2009.
2009 Ch Mouton Rothschild Aile d’Argent, courtesy of KP, popped and poured over dinner at his residence, 14 Feb 2015. Very lovely on the nose, an effusive abundance of apricot, melons, white flowers and nugmet all combining very well to produce an air of great complexity and expectation, but falling short on the palate where it was noticeably steely, lacking in vibrancy and fullness. A pity, but I’m still grateful for the opportunity to sample this uncommon white from Mouton.
![20150214_203700[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150214_2037001.jpg)
1990 Claude et Hubert Chavy-Chouet Pommard Les Chanlins 1er, courtesy of Hiok, popped and poured over dinner at KP’s residence, 14 Feb 2015. Very dusky and opaque. In spite of the outstanding vintage and classification, this wine isn’t convincing,
1995 Ch Figeac, popped and poured over dinner at KP’s residence, 14 Feb 2015. Good concentration of dark fruits and redcurrants, almost fully evolved with notes of violets, cinnamon, earth and cedar contrasted against the dried mushrooms and tea leaves. Likely to hold station for many years to come. My last bottle.
2006 Kistler Hyde Vineyard chardonnay, courtesy of Li Fern, popped and poured at Glen Arden after hours, 17 Feb 2015. Displaying a very attractive earthy pungency on the nose, this chardonnay sparkles with brilliant notes of white flowers, melons and icing supported by complex chalky minerality in equal measure, never weighed down by its excellent concentration thanks to its fresh acidity, ensuring that the wine remained lively and vibrant. Excellent.
2005 Colgin Cariad, courtesy of Li Fern, a bottle that’s had the benefit of having been aired overnight, drunk at Glen Arden after hours, 17 Feb 2015. This is a superb example of the heights that Californian cabernet can achieve. The bouquet offers generous notes of aromatic dark currants and mocha, saturated with glorious ripe berries and dark fruits on the palate, underscored by supple minerality, rich yet silky smooth, displaying superb linearity and definition all the way to its lasting finish. Still tight after ten years and clearly yet to peak, but it is outstanding even now. I can’t imagine how it would be once it has time to unfurl its full potential. Superb.
2009 Ch Le Doyenne, popped and poured at Glen Arden after hours, 17 Feb 2015 and again on 19 Feb 2015 during Chinese New Year dinner at home. The nose promises an abundance of aromatic black fruits which translates well onto the palate, medium-full, supported by firm minerality imparting a dash of graphite with traces of bramble and briar, the vanilla and enamel from the new oak still discernible although the flavours seemed rather narrow with the first bottle, but bloomed very well with the second, finishing with fine sophisticated tannins. A prodigious over-achiever.
2008 E Guigal Chateau D’Ampuis Cote Rotie (courtesy of Hsiang Sui), popped and poured at Glen Arden after hours, 17 Feb 2015. The word “racy” comes to mind, the wine an exciting proposition of ripe dark fruits and raspberries offering some bright spots, medium-full, smooth, excellent in depth and concentration and layering. Hard to place if tasted blind.
2009 Ch Macay, popped and poured at the reunion dinner on the eve of Chinese New Year, 18 Feb 2015. Similar to my previous experience of this wine more than a year ago, it opens with quite a fair bit of dusty tannins and wood dust, the fruit erring towards dryness. But some early development has taken place, with notes of cedar, licorice and earth emerging. Still not impressive enough for me. You’re better off with a cru bourgeois from the Medoc. Moreover, Cotes de Bourg is getting expensive these days.
2011 Ch Pey La Tour, courtesy of Kee Soo, after aeration in bottle for two hours during Chinese New Year dinner, 19 Feb 2015. This wine is imbued with dark berries and raspberries with sweet tannins, weighty and substantial which is unusual for a supermarket wine, but still not able to match up to the 2009 Ch Le Doyenne (above, drunk alongside) in intensity, concentration and sophistication.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, popped and poured at home, 20 Feb 2015. This has settled considerably, more smooth and open with a myriad of fresh lime and citrus, nutmeg and a dash of apricot, its acidity no longer so crisp and cutting as before and so much the better for it, taking on considerable weight and intensity after some time. Quite excellent.
2011 Ca’Marcanda Vistamare, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. From Gaja. Full-bodied, fresh and bright with a mild steely edge. Gained some floral lift and more intense notes of lime amidst crisp stony minerality but still a relatively straightforward wine.
2012 Nargalie Vigot Vosne Romanee, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Terrible stuff. Too simple and undistinguished.
1997 Michel Gaunoux Corton Renardes Grand Cru, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Still retaining quite a classic burgundian character in spite of its bottle age and the less-than-impressive vintage. Mildly medicinal on the nose and palate with other notes of rose petals and understated minerality.
![20150108_131554[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150108_1315541.jpg)
2004 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Some lovely notes of blueberries, redcurrants, velvety forest floor and a slight vegetal hint that seems to be a characteristic trait of this estate. Medium-full with some early secondary development. More memorable for its attractive aromatics.
2008 Ch Rauzan Segla, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Classically poised, decent red fruits and dark berries with a hint of bramble, structured and lifted at the finish but, overall, somewhat lean.
2009 William Fevre Grenouilles Chablis Grand Cru, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Minerally and chalky, true to its roots with an abundance of perfumed white flowers and vanilla that exuded great presence, creamy rich and delicious.
2006 Ch Montrose, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Attractive earthy pungency, stern and linear on the palate leading to a slightly austere finish. Lacks opulence.
2007 Sassicaia, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Curious blend of dark fruits and tangerine, somewhat lean and not quite seamless at this stage. Needs time to settle down.
2009 Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Intense notes of citrus and white incense, generous in fruit, well-balanced. Lovely.
2010 Meo Camuzet Vosne Romanee Les Charmes 1er, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Cool ripe fruit, balanced but lean.
Krug Grand Cuvee Brut NV, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Full-bodied but dry, almost acerbic, as expected of Krug. Very tight. Great ageing potential in spite of its NV classification.
2007 Clos Sainte Hune Alsace, at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner, Swissotel Stamford Singapore, 27 Feb 2015. Good concentration of dry crisp citrus with a distinct petroleum character in the mid-body that’s classic of Old World Riesling. Should have started the evening with this, rather than at the end!
Zind-Humbrecht
These are short notes from a Sunday lunch at Mandarin Oriental organised by the newly-founded Singapore Alsace Wine and Gastronomy Society, helmed by its first President Julian Teoh, on 09 November 2014, featuring the wines of the famous Alsatian estate Domaine Zind-Humbrecht with its proprietor Olivier Humbrecht, MW, in attendance, showcasing Brand (“Land of Fire”), one of the top grand crus of Alsace, located near Turckheim. All the wines of this domaine are biodynamically farmed.
2009 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes. Lifted peaches and tropical fruits, smooth, creamy, slightly austere from the bit of bitter lemon, controlled sweetness, ending in a lasting minty finish.
2008 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes. Deeper than the 2009. 
Great presence, leans towards sophisticated salty minerality, dry but beautifully layered. Highly complex. Excellent.
2007 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes. Mild green notes, though not vegetal, well-integrated with clear minerality with understated sweetness, giving it a stern demeanour. Became creamier over time but still somewhat short.
2006 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St Urbain Grand Cru. Arguably from the best grand cru site in Alsace, separate from Brand. Deep luscious gold, distinctly deeper in color with an abundance of apricot and grapefruit but beginning to dry out as evidenced by the lowish alcohol, not helped by the austere minerality. Fleshed out more over time but could do with more fruit.
2009 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl. Low in acidity with distinct notes of lychee but unassuming, ending in a long finish. Needs time to unwind.
2001 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St Urbain Grand Cru Selection de Grains Nobles. Luscious with excellent aromatics, highly lifted, lowish in acidity and somewhat dense, displaying excellent complexity, utterly smooth and seamless. Quite exceptional.
2001 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Selection de Grains Nobles. Compared with the Rangen de Thann , this wine is even more layered with apricot and nectar, paradoxically lighter on the palate yet greater in complexity. Marvellous.
Palmer 2002, 2004 & Margaux 2002, 2003
The Glen boys gathered again for another evening of excesses at Garibaldi, 9th February 2015, where Roberto the chef and owner had customised a menu for us. The original intention was to drink a 2004 horizontal of Margaux, seeing how infrequently this commune is featured in most tastings. However, it wasn’t quite possible to sustain the plot across a diverse group of people and we ended up drinking whatever people brought. We began with a 2004 Dom Perignon (courtesy of Miah Hiang) that bolted off the blocks with a powerful earthy pungency and concentrated white citrus, light touch of lime and pomelo and a glimpse of mint intermixed very fine gentle bubbles, eventually developing overtones of vanilla and sweet toasty oak. Highly cerebral and complex and really quite superb. In contrast, the regular yellow label Verve Cliquot (courtesy of Beow Kiong) was rather stern in character with notes of limey citrus, green apples and bittersweet pomelo, weighty and linear from entry to finish, veering towards overt dryness.
We moved on to a pair of white burgundy, both courtesy of Choon Jin. The 2011 Guy Amiot Chassagne Montrachet La Maltroie 1er was highly attractive with a lovely and generous bouquet of white petals, placid and gentle on the palate with understated sweetness, taking on greater weight and expanse over time. Next to it, the 2009 Henri Boillot Savigny-les-Beaune Les Vergelesses 1er, whilst hailing from a great vintage, didn’t seem quite ready to drink at this stage although one senses an abundance of quality fruit beneath the even and smooth surface, toned with a hint of richness and delicate minerality, but still largely undeveloped. ![20150209_220955[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150209_2209551.jpg)
A third white, the 2004 Mischief & Mayhem Mersault Les Poruzots 1er (courtesy of Keng Hong) was much heavier in color with the advantage of significant bottle age, featuring generous notes of caramel and red apples on the nose although disappointingly short on fruit on the palate; it desperately needs more fullness and body.
The series of reds got off to a poor start, a potentially delicious bottle of 2001 Nicolas Potel Echezeaux Grand Cru turning out to be significantly corked. It never fails to amaze me how many people who drink very regularly and are knowledgeable about wine cannot recognise a corked wine whenever the encounter arises. On the other hand, the 2006 Taupenot Merme Mazoyeres Chambertin Grand Cru (courtesy of Hak Mien) was an absolute beauty, displaying a wonderful purity of red fruits and camphor, highly attractive in concentration and intensity without the outright voluptuousness of a first-division grand cru of Chambertin, very refined and quintessentially burgundian. Very good indeed, providing the ideal platform from which to move on to the wines of Margaux, finally.
It turned out that only Ch Palmer and Ch Margaux were featured, with two different vintages available for each, an ideal situation for easy pairing and comparison. The 2004 Ch Palmer (courtesy of Vic) was a classic beauty with open textures and an abundance of ripe dark fruits and dark currants of excellent depth, classically structured and balanced, its tannins slightly chewy and velvety, its aromas more lifted over time with nothing out of proportion, confirming just how under-rated this vintage has been. In contrast, the 2002 Ch Palmer, a bottle I’d cellared since its initial release, was also quite excellent, striking a perfect balance between loads of black fruits and the high-toned salty minerality, very seamless, just missing in sheer opulence. This is a wine that can hold its own in any line-up, a reminder never to under-estimate better estates in so-called weak vintages.
![20150209_225049[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150209_2250491.jpg)
The 2002 Ch Margaux (courtesy of Li Fern) was similar in many ways to the 2002 Palmer with good saturation of black fruits and dark currants, possessing greater depth and layering, matched against earthy minerality, just a tad short at the finish. Its deficiencies were shone up by the 2003 Ch Margaux (courtesy of SS Ngoi), a prodigious wine of immense breadth and depth, layered with outstanding dark fruits and redcurrants, rich and lush without being overbearing and, naturally, still youthful with absolutely no trace of burnt from the hot vintage.
Just when we had concluded dinner and about to leave, Hsiang Sui came with a clutch of offerings that was difficult to refuse. The 2007 Kistler Russian Valley chardonnay was dry, lean and austere with a metallic tone towards the finish, while a 2000 Pavillon Rouge was well into its secondary development with notes of cedar and sweet tannins, slightly lean but its breed shone through. Definitely quality stuff. And, finally, a half-bottle of 1989 Ch Rieussec was consistent with my impression from a standard bottle 4-5 years ago, its acidity having ebbed away, robbing the wine of much of its verve, a pity since its apricot is still substantial. Given that there were so many of us, each person didn’t really have much to drink for each wine although I daresay there were some who staggered out of the restaurant. My thanks to everyone for their contributions.
Old Right Bank
These were the wines drunk at a dinner at Jade Palace hosted by Ms Angelina Teh of Bordeaux Index on 5 February 2015, where the reds were based on a Right Bank theme. All bottles were decanted on-site over a couple of hours.
We began with a pair of contrasting whites. The 2005 Rene Lequin-Colin Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru (courtesy of David) displayed a luminous gold with a rich creamy bouquet and notes of white petals, very minerally, yet understated, paving the way for a seamless and very well integrated wine that took on a rich petroleum-like quality after some time, ending in a long finish. Quite superb. Next to it, the 2012 Peter Michael Belle Cote chardonnay (courtesy of Kieron) was distinctly paler in comparison, considerably lighter in texture on the palate dominated by narrower spectrum of clear citrus, lime and morning dew amidst other mild grassy elements, ending in a bittersweet finish. ![20150205_231828[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/20150205_2318281.jpg)
Over time, however, it developed a quiet intensity at the finish that gradually built up into a high crystalline tone with a dominant note of caramel on the palate, yet surprisingly smooth and controlled in spite of its 15% alcohol. Very lovely indeed.
The three reds were drunk simultaneously. The 1975 Ch La Conseillante (courtesy of Angelina) was still dark in color, proffering powerful medicinal and earthy aromas, surprisingly generous in body and tone, still imbued with an excellent concentration of dark currants, plums and wild berries amidst remarkable acidity in spite of its 40 years. Fully evolved, gentle yet exciting at the finish, this wine is likely to continue to hold for many more years. Outstanding. The 1983 Ch Figeac (courtesy of KP), displaying a dark dirty red, possessed a sweeter bouquet, notably a bigger wine filled with top-drawer plummy fruit and powerful salty minerality, matched by fine silky tannins that complemented the classic dryness of tea leaves and ash very well, still laced with great acidity. A great Figeac. Lastly, the 1988 Ch Troplong Mondot, highly consistent with a similar bottle Kieron and I had shared over lunch at Eleven Madison Park in New York back in 2012, was relatively youthful in comparison to the above, saturated with dark fruits, blackcurrants and wild berries that gave off herbal and earthy aromas, well-integrated but slightly subdued and brooding in spite of the sweet cedar that emerged after some time. This had been a wonderful evening; thanks to all for the wine and to Angelina for dinner.
Great Old Italians
Bacchus convened again on 13 Jan 2015 at Buona Terra, now the preferred venue for a number of people but, like all things good, I’m beginning to find its cuisine predictable and perhaps it is best to stay away for a while. The manager Gabrielle proferred the same 2011 Miani Fruliano from the restaurant list to start us off. Admittedly though, this is an excellent choice, fresh and zesty and unexpectedly rich and complex with a hint of tropical fruit and notes of white flowers and bitter citrus, slightly steely, that added immeasurably to its sophistication.
Well, of course, the wine theme for the evening would be Italian and when David was first to offer a 1964 Gaja Barbaresco, there was no turning back. In spite of its 50 years, the 1964, well-evolved in color, proffered sweet medicinal aromas with notes of red fruits and cooked meat amidst earthy smoky overtones, utterly seamless, even gaining in some intensity over time, staying the course throughout dinner without fading off. Superb. Drunk alongside, the 1971 Gaja Barbaresco (courtesy of LF), although younger, was alarmingly lighter in color, almost to the point of murkiness, but it redeemed itself beautifully with very lovely notes of rose petals and tangerine trailed by a hint of mint, still carrying good intensity and acidity, wonderfully balanced. Superb as well, but I felt that the 1964 came across as fresher and livelier. Still on the theme of great old Italians, we popped a 1964 Conterno Barolo from the restaurant list. 
This was also alarmingly light in color but it stayed true to its Barolo roots with heavier port-like sweet medicinal aromas and pure tangerine on the palate, still decent in body and showing off great acidity, though the short finish could not be disguised, becoming better over time but the pair of Gaja still held sway.
The wine list of Buona Terra contained a relatively affordable 2011 Leterno Feudi del Piciotto Pinot Nero that has become a favourite with some regular diners. Primarily fruit forward with dominant notes of red apples and citrus, I felt this wine to be too heavy in body, typical of young Italian reds. We concluded the evening with a 1997 Sassicaia (courtesy of Kieron), normally a wine that would have blown the socks off any line-up. 
On this occasion, it contained a significant touch of earthiness and vegetal characters initially that, thankfully, blew off quickly enough to reveal dark fruits and blackcurrants with a dash of ferrous minerality, medium-bodied, supple and well-balanced, though stern in demeanour and certainly not the last word in complexity. Just as in typical Italian dramas, you can’t bump off the oldies and the Sassicaia certainly could not move out of the shadows of the great pair of Gaja Barbaresco.
Ric's Wine Journal 