Notes in brief (March 2013): 2002 Joh Jos Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr, 1998 Rockford Basket Press, 1996 Calon Segur…
2005 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Saint-Georges” 1er Cru, popped and poured at Amarone, 8 March 2013. As expected from this producer, a slightly more extracted and heavier pinot noir, saturated with blueberries, redcurrants, raspberries and a dash of wild berries as well, though not as heavy compared with my initial experience with this wine back in 2011. Somewhat dark in demeanour. 
It opened up a bit more to reveal some salty minerality with a touch of earth but it still gave an overall impression of restraint at this stage, clearly a wine that can go very far if one has the patience.
1998 Rockford Basket Press shiraz, popped and poured at Porta Porta (Stanley St), 9 March 2013. Still a deep dark ruby after almost 15 years, coming across as a big wine with alcoholic content that seemed higher than the declared 14.0%, stinging the tongue and palate. However, it settled quite quickly after 30-45 minutes, the alcohol dissipating away, allowing the warm ripe Barossa fruit to emerge, displaying notes of raisins, prunes, dark cherries, dark chocolate and a dash of licorice along with secondary notes of cassis, pepper, mushrooms and a touch of forest floor, very well integrated with plenty of body and depth, leaving a trail of sweet tannins in its wake. It really came together by the final pour some 90 minutes later, highly elegant and almost seamless. Excellent.
2009 Awatere River pinot noir, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 16 March 2013. Unmistakably New World right from the first pour, being darker and weightier than usual for pinot noir, with effusive notes of enamel, vanilla and varnish vying for dominance against raspberries and dark cherries which struggled to emerge from the background, rather tight and almost full-bodied on the mid-palate with an unusual streak of density that would definitely require time for resolution, wearing out the palatal senses by the final quarter. It has its attractions, but think I’ll stay away from it for the next 4-5 years.
2006 Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, popped and poured from magnum at the wedding lunch of Donovan & Cherry at the Conrad Centennial, 17 March 2013. 
Compared to previous tastings, all similarly from magnum, this wine has gained weight considerably, offering a generous bouquet of predominantly red fruits amd raspberries, imparting a firm and weighty quality on the palate, the sweet tannins building up in definition and intensity over time before settling into a more relaxed wine, displaying excellent concentration and depth, but yet to undergo any secondary development. An excellent bargain.
1996 Ch Calon Segur, decanted on-site at Forlino, 19 March 2013. Beautiful deep crimson with a hint of bricking at the rim, with notes of dark currants, cedar, violets and gravel, fairly intense on the palate before settling into a more relaxed tone tempered by sweet tannins and secondary nuances of plums, tangy citrus and cinnamon that emerged after an hour, the wine transformed into an abolutely harmonious whole. Excellent.
1998 Ch Lanessan, popped and poured at La Barca (still serving the best wagyu truffle Fiorentina in the whole of Singapore), 20 March 2013. Working through a half-dozen of these, and this tasting was, by far, the best Lanessan I’ve had. Generally dark in color and tone but layered with some attractive redcurrants and dark cherries, laced with sweet weighty tannins that shook off the usual greenness and weedy notes that tend to accompany these Medoc wines. Very good indeed.
2011 Oddsocks merlot shiraz cabernet by the glass at Salt Grill by Luke Mangan at ION Orchard, 21 March 2013. A relaxed wine clearly displaying the character of each individual varietal within the blend, soft at the edges, medium-bodied but carrying decent weight, even managing a hint of complexityby virtue of its blend. Not your typical Aussie fruit-bomb. Highly agreeable.
2005 Ch Bernadotte, poured from magnum, at the wedding lunch of Eng Loon and May May, Fullerton Hotel, 23 March 2013. Compared to previous tastings, this wine seemed to be shutting down at this stage, which is about right. 
The bouquet of violets and dark berries is more restrained, while its density on the palate has softened considerably with an added touch of earthiness but again, the previous robustness and exuberance has been replaced by a more subdued demeanour. I’d let it rest for a few years before re-visiting again.
1993 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, another bottle of this again at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 25 March 2013. Decanted on-site. Perhaps the best tasting note of this wine so far. Vibrant and lively with a good deal of dark cherries and raspberries framed by subdued tannins, carrying good weight and concentration, offering good layering, not drying out at all. I daresay it’ll continue to hold for quite a number of years.
2008 Muga Riserva, at SGD108 off the restaurant list of Catalunya, situated within The Fullerton Pavillion, 26 March 2013. Popped and poured, coming across as being somewhat simplistic, lacking in punch and depth although, admittedly, it was generous in red fruits with a substantial dose of orangey citrus, peach and raspberries, very well-balanced, open and full without any spot of hollowness. It gained weight after 30 minutes, opening up further to reveal fine unobtrusive tannins, very well integrated but short at the finish. A good accompaniment to the restaurant’s signature suckling pig.
2002 Joh Jos Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese, popped and poured at at Ming Kee Live Seafood, 28 March 2013. Already quite lovely from the first pour, the significant passage of time having sapped some acidity off the edges, resulting in a wine that’s extremely comfortable on the palate with generous notes of apricot, tropical fruits. complex citrus and rose petals that flowed effortlessly. A distinct pomelo character emerged over time, adding a highly contrasting austerity of bitter lemon to the crystalline minerality that further enhanced the wine’s complexity. Quite beautiful. I suspect it has actually yet to peak, so don’t reach for your bottles.
2010 Domaine Louis Latour Bourgogne rouge, SGD70 off the restaurant list of Creperie des Art, 30 March 2013. Popped and poured. Not too promising initially, in spite of the supposed stellar vintage, coming across as a tad thin. It fleshed out more convincingly towards the end of the meal, where notes of strawberries, rose petals, plums and a dash of orangey citrus held firm against a backdrop of earthy minerality, highly even across the palate. Could do with greater fruit concentration and depth.
Bacchus met again, all too infrequently, on 28 January 2013 at Shang Palace of the Shangri-la Hotel, Singapore, where the stellar cuisine never disappoints, the wine service impeccable. For his induction into the circle, Pipin had proferred a blinded bottle as starters. It appeared quite well aged based on the color and complexity of its bouquet, highly perfumed with a powerful glow of orangey citrus and red fruits, beautifully focused and linear, utterly seamless, finishing with a trace of medicinal sweetness. 
Very lovely. Some guessed pinot, others sangiovese, but old Danny boy was on form, correctly guessing a Spanish wine, which turned out to be none other than the 1994 Vega Sicilia Unico. What a start!
The obligatory white that preceded dinner took the form of a 1999 Louis Jadot Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (courtesy Danny). It was served a bit too cold initially, though a kaleidoscope of nutty flavors, coconut and soft yeasty characters were evident, the wine still rather tight, to be expected from this stellar vintage even at this stage. gradually developing a rich creamy minerality with excellent depth, just a tad steely at the finish. Pretty much like Bonneau du Martray of the same vintage, clearly yet to peak.
The theme for the evening was to be a vertical of the iconic La Chapelle of Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aine, drunk in two flights of three, from the most recent vintage to the oldest. The 2005 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle, displaying a beautiful deep ruby (as well as a very different looking label from its predecessors), was obviously youthful and racy with notes of rose petals and a hint of enamel, still cloaked in fresh vanillin. Nevertheless, one could still appreciate the superb craftsmanship that imparted a deft lightness, avoiding any hint of wild hedonism, yet to develop any complexity at this stage, taking on a softer velvety texture after some time coupled with an attractive spicy finish. Perhaps best to lay off for ten years? In contrast, the 1997 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (courtesy Pipin), showed a dull evolved red consistent with its significantly greater bottle age, producing a powerful nose of herbal medicinal aromas amidst earthy notes, topped by a prominent petroleum-like character that overlay a broad attractive dryness with a touch of spice on the palate, displaying excellent delineation right through its finish. 
Next to this, the 1996 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (courtesy Kieron) displayed similar traits of color and flavour with expansive notes of herbal aromas, red fruits and some earthiness of lowish acidity, turning highly perfumed after some time, superbly seamless, developing a progressively prominent medicinal note over time.
The second and final flight consisted of La Chapelle from much older vintages, and it was a revealation to find that these wines are still very much so at their peak. The 1990 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (courtesy Li Fern) was still dark and supremely rich on both the nose and palate, generous in its bouquet of earth, aniseed, cassis and other dark fruits and soy, seething with great concentration and depth, still remarkably youthful without seemingly having undergone any significant development. If La Chapelle from a stellar vintage more than twenty years ago still remains relatively unevolved, would that be the same for its modern-day equivalent, the 2005? In contrast, the 1989 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (courtesy Vic) was caught almost at its peak, superbly evolved and integrated with an excellent concentration of predominantly red fruits, while the 1988 Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle (courtesy Hiok) was the undisputed star of the evening’s line-up with its array of attractive earthiness, tinge of dryness, dried leaves, mushrooms and cherries, beautifully developed and balanced, displaying superb delineation and focus. Most sublime.
These are notes from an impromptu dinner organised by John at short notice at Jade Palace, 17 Jan 2013. We began with a 1973 Vina Ardanza Rioja Alta (courtesy KP), decanted on-site. Fully matured, displaying a blend of rosy vermillion, yet still carrying very good levels of acidity at the sides that stung the palate initially as the fruit took longer to emerge, offering just notes of pink roses and kumquat initially. 
Then, it underwent quite an amazing transformation over the next 30-45 minutes, where it gained weight rapidly with red fruits and redcurrants becoming more readily apparent, the lively acidity adding to the sense of freshness in spite of its age, staying the course right till the end of dinner.
We followed up with a 2005 Pahlmeyer Jayson (courtesy PS), also decanted on-site. Coming right after the Rioja, this Sonoma County pinot noir was decidedly bolder and weightier, displaying excellent concentration of red cherries and raspberries without the heaviness, well supported by understated minerality but yet to display any significant complexity. John had brought a 1993 Lupicaia that would have been interesting but, unfortunately, the first whiff revealed that it was unmistakably corked. A real pity.
The 2004 Amon Ra, the flagship of Ben Glaetzer, brought up the rear. In spite of having been double decanted and further aeration amounting to about 150 minutes, this full-bodied wine was still saturated with super-ripe fruit with a raisiny quality that still displayed significant levels of vanilla and enamel, heady and hedonistic but undoubtedly well-crafted with textures that are smooth and rounded without any of the unctuous quality often associated with Barossa shiraz in the past. I’m not sure how much longer it needs to be left alone. Definitely one for the long haul.
Notes in brief (Feb 2013): 1986 Lynch Bages, 1986 Leoville Poyferre, 2001 Leoville Las-Cases…
Piper Hiedsieck Brut NV, at the Esplanade Theatre, Singapore, during the intermission of Puccini’s Madame Butterfly, 2 Feb 2013. Forward with notes of limey citrus and a dash of smoke supported by stony minerality, lively but dry, straightforward but acceptable.
Moet et Chandon Brut NV (courtesy Ben), at Imperial Treasure Super Duck Paragon, 5 Feb 2013. Pretty much in the same vein as the Piper Hiedsieck, but I fancy the Moet has more body and intensity, well balanced against the fizz.
2001 Ch Leoville Las-Cases, at Imperial Treasure Super Duck Paragon, 5 Feb 2013. Aired in bottle for two hours prior to serving. In spite of that, this wine was still extremely tight, inky dark in color, saturated with ripe dark berries of great intensity, almost dense, offering up notes of dark chocolate and licorice, but brooding and austere in demeanour. It sure took a long time to loosen up, taking on a softer, fleshier character with more of dark cherries appearing, its structure snapping into focus as early notes of secondary development became more apparent in the form of plums, apricot and cinammon, going especially well with the wagyu beef cubes. But, overall, I’d say this wine is still not quite ready, one truly for the long haul. Patience is required.
2011 M Chapoutier Luberon La Ciboise, SGD80 from the restaurant list of The Fullerton Boathouse, 6 Feb 2013, an assemblage of grenache noir and syrah from the Rhone Valley. Clearly youthful and vibrant, buzzing with notes of fresh raspberries, cherries and other red fruits, weighty but very well crafted such that it avoids any notion of heaviness, with textures that are unusually transparent for such a young wine, managing even a hint of layering. Nevertheless, it could not conceal the fact that this is still a fairly straightforward wine, but utterly perfect as a lunch accompaniment.
2008 Ch Moulin Saint-Georges, a half bottle over lunch with the wifey at Les Amis, 8 Feb 2013. Decanted on-site. Lovely deep purple, saturated with blueberries and other dark berries, fairly dense and weighty initially, gradually opening and lightening up in texture to reveal some lovely layering, displaying good structure, focus and delineation. Very good.
2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, aired in bottle for almost an hour at the family reunion dinner at home on the eve of the Lunar New Year, 9 Feb 2013. Rather disjointed at first, almost acerbic. It began to settle after a further 30 minutes with notes of red fruits, licorice, orangey citrus and red plums appearing, supported by unobtrusive firm tannins. My last bottle. A good wine but I don’t think I’ll miss it.
2010 Joh Jos Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen riesling spatlese, popped and poured at a family dinner on Chinese New Year, 10 Feb 2013. A very lovely mix of nectarine, apricot, rock melon, tropical fruits and pineapples, seamlessly integrated and beautifully balanced with just the right level of intensity and sweetness, never cloying. Excellent.
2008 Umberto Cesari Liano, popped and poured at Capri, 12 Feb 2013. A blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. But this wine is far from ready. Huge, dense, almost unctuous in spite of having been aired for two hours prior, saturated with notes of licorice and very ripe grapes, raisiny in texture, marked by a prominent tannic attack although lurking beneath are some very attractive red and dark fruits that never had a chance to break through.
2005 Ch D’Aigulhe, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 13 Feb 2013. Still not ready to be drunk. Huge, saturated with licorice, raisins, dark currants and a trace of vanilla coupled with a firm tannic spine. Almost New World in style.
2003 Clonakilla shiraz-viognier, decanted on-site at Amarone, 15 Feb 2013. Smooth ripe cool-climate shiraz offset by the discernible viognier, which added a dimension of vanilla and a touch of greenness, well-integrated and balanced, layered with notes of mocha, dark chocolate, licorice and plum, displaying excellent concentration and depth. Quite the perfect accompaniment for the medium-rare Fiorentina.
2009 Jean-Claude Bachelet et Fils Saint-Aubin “Les Charmois” 1er Cru (courtesy Hiok, at his residence). From the bottom half of a bottle already opened for some time. Typically for Saint-Aubin, the wine is most impressive on the nose, a delicate highly aromatic bouquet of white flowers, citrus and white pepper, supported by stony minerality, well focused and linear. Very good.
1986 Ch Lynch-Bages (courtesy Hiok, at his residence). Already decanted for some time. Rather disappointing at my first sip, coming across as medium-full, musty and earthy, metallic and very backward without much fruit. It got better over time, becoming more masculine, sweeter and weightier, still laced with fresh acidity, displaying good definition. But, on the whole, I found it underwhelming. Should we expect more from 1986?
1986 Ch Leoville Poyferre. Decanted on-site at Hiok’s residence. Compared with the 1986 Lynch-Bages, this wine is considerably more forward and sweeter on the nose, displaying notes of blackberries and cedar, tinge of earth. Soft, medium-full, but austere and dark on the palate, distinctly metallic towards the finish, almost angular, amidst that dryish texture of Saint Julien. It loosened up over time, revealing some delicious layering, but, as with the Lynch-Bages, the overall experience was somewhat underwhelming. 
Perhaps our expectations of that vintage is a bit too unrealistic.
1993 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, two bottles (from a fresh dozen courtesy of Mr S Ong) decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 22 Feb 2013. Rather quiet and reserved initially, the bouquet dominated by old leather and dusty tannins that eventually cleared, allowing the fruit to come through with notes of brair, earth, cedar, forest floor and dried mushrooms, still quite lively in spite of bottle age. Very difficult to distinguish from an aged Medoc. Soft and fully matured. Will hold for a few more years but I think this is probably as far as it can go.
2002 Petaluma Coonawarra, decanted on-site at Amarone with the family, 23 Feb 2013. Deep dark purple, displaying a great concentration of blackberries and dark currants, exuding lifted aromas of highly-enticing fragrance with a dash of sweetness, distinctively earthy and metallic towards the finish, not unlike a Saint-Julien. One of my favourite reds from Down Under, and I’d suggest cellaring the 2002 for another 3-5 years, at least, when I fancy the rewards will be even greater.
2009 Domain Road pinot noir, popped and poured at Gattopardo, 26 Feb 2013. Possesses a richness and intensity on the mid-palate seldom encountered even for New World pinot, more extracted than usual, saturated with bright cherries, strawberries, raspberries and a dash of dark currants, very well crafted such that tannins are understated and well-integrated, the wine already soft at the edges and quite accessible even at this stage. It loosened up a bit over time, gaining more of earthy notes and graphite minerality all through the depths, but I miss the purity of pinot noir that the Old World masters conjure. Good stuff, but may not suit purists.
1989 Chateau Pichon Baron Longueville 1990 Domaine de Chevalier
These are notes from an impromptu and indulgent dinner at Bistecca, 30 Jan 2013. John had volunteered to bring both reds, and as the restaurant has a strict one-for-one corkage policy, we pulled a sparkling and a white off the restaurant list to precede the reds.
We began with a Bisol Jeio Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC NV (SGD70) that was quite agreeable, forward with notes of fresh green melons and apples with a dash of malt and yeast without being too dry, refreshing and delightful enough. The 2007 Sugarloaf Ridge chardonnay (Tasmania, Australia), popped and poured, possessed an unique pungency initially, almost akin to bottle stink, that I’ve never encountered before in any white. However, this gave way to the classic chardonnay character of white flowers, cashews, crackers with a dash of tropical fruit, supported by rich creamy minerality that grew in intensity, imparting a solid mouthfeel and a sense of complexity. Most interesting.
Each of us ate two steaks that evening (yes…a 250g Filletto followed by a 350g Lombata…pure madness), paired with both reds (decanted on-site) simultaneously. The 1990 Domaine de Chevalier, caught at its peak, was medium-bodied and utterly seamless, awashed with warm ripe dark berries supported by a mild earthiness as well as secondary nuances of toast, wild mushrooms and cedar that emerged with a powerful glow, a wine crafted with understated sophistication, which is why I have a special affection for this estate. It would have been quite outstanding in its own right, were it not for the 1989 Ch Pichon Baron Longueville that upstaged it. Compared to the Chevalier, the Baron was more immediate and forward, a bigger wine that simply gave you everything at once: a highly aromatic bouquet of red and dark fruits with plenty of secondary notes of cedar, violets, kirsch, cinnamon and a touch of leather, much more forward than usual, much less of the usual dryish Pauillac character, while the kaleidoscope of flavours and layering on the palate was simply quite marvellous, displaying ample depth with excellent concentration but never too dense, highly focused and linear, tapering to a long finish. Superb. Still remarkably fresh and lively, and I believe it may yet evolve further. Great stuff. Well, that was definitely too much good food and too much great wine for an evening that’s unlikely to be forgotten. Thanks, John.
2007 Brokenwood Mistress Block, a bottle purchased directly from the cellar door at Hunter Valley back in Dec 2009, popped and poured at Asia Grand on 4 Jan 2013. Full-bodied with notes of ripe shiraz imbued with characters of raspberries, raisins, dark chocolate and a hint of licorice, dripping with mint and menthol but very well-balanced and proportioned, the tight silky tannins imparting an elegant feel.
1998 Majella cabernet sauvignon, double decanted under temperature control for 90 minutes and aired further in bottle at Imperial Treasure Great World before serving, 5 Jan 2013. 
This wine was worth all that effort, no question about it. The cork was fractured as a result of dessication, but emerged without total fragmentation, giving way to a great deal of bottle stink initially but which disappeared totally after some time. The bouquet is dominated by notes of dark currants, blackberries, violets and cedar that led to a wine of considerable maturity, distinctly medium-bodied, soft and fleshy, the fruit not showing any sign of drying out, not overtly weighty nor exuberant, but very well-balanced. It got better and better as dinner wore on, eventually developing tertiary notes of leather, cinnamon, cassis and tangy citrus that combined to produce a most lovely glow on the nose that was remarkably similar to what one would experience from a well-aged claret, something that I never knew was possible from an Aussie cabernet. Excellent.
2009 Stefan Kollmar Auslese (courtesy Jeremy), popped and drunk over a live telecast of Manchester United against Liverpool, 13 Jan 2013. Quite a lovely bouquet indeed, with notes of peaches, rock melons, fig, pears and pineapples but it didn’t quite live up to expectations on the palate, possessing neither the intensity nor potential complexity expected of an auslese although its balance cannot be called into question.
2010 Siete Soles, a straight merlot from Chile, popped and drunk right after the Stefan Kollmar above, 13 Jan 2013. Yet to shed its heavy cloak of wood, alongside a peculiar note of malt and wheat that thoroughly obscured the underlying fruit. Don’t waste your hepatocytes on it.
2011 Torbreck GSM, SGD90 from the limited (and unimpressive) wine list of The Exchange, 16 Jan 2013. Popped and poured. What impressed was that this wine was crafted such that textures remained open and light, with flavours that reminded me of Beaujolais. Otherwise, it’s just a simple and unremarkable wine, finishing with a stiff tannic spine.
2005 Vincent Girardin Mersault “Les Charmes-Dessus” 1er Cru, over an excellent set lunch at the University Club, 18 Jan 2013. Popped and poured, displaying a lighter tinge of gold, very clear indeed. Not quite as exuberant as I’d have expected from this producer, but there are enough of fig, melons and a dash of vanilla amidst understated minerality and fragrance on the nose and palate, yet to develop any significant complexity. I’d have preferred a little more intensity and character. Perhaps it needs more bottle age.
Adami Dei Casel Prosecco, a glass of which at Oso Ristorante, 24 Jan 2013. Rather pleasant with grassy notes balanced against lively citrus, not too dry, straightforward but efficient.
2009 Gaja Langhe Sito Moresco DOC, at Oso Ristorante, 24 Jan 2013. Popped and poured. Highly attractive from the first pour, medium-full with chewy tannins framing the broad swathes of red fruits, raspberries and wild cherries with a trace of sweetness at the edges, supported by notes of forest floor and earth, imparting a hint of complexity. Soft, rounded and accessible. Very good.
1990 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, decanted on-site at Al Borno, 26 Jan 2013. This was a wine that took quite a while to get going, seemingly backward and lacklustre at the first pour. After some time, notes of blueberries and ripe wild berries began emerging to the fore, the wine firming up, developing a greater sense of depth and intensity. Eventually, the tertiary characters of leather, cinnamon and violets appeared amidst smooth, rounded, velvety textures. Quite excellent.
1976 Ch La Conseillante
This is the second time in six months that I’ve had the privilege of drinking this wine, courtesy of a bottle from John, popped and decanted over a lovely dinner with the family at Capri on 11 Jan 2013 at the end of a long and busy week. The 1976 Ch La Conseillante certainly looks the part of a 37-year-old wine, the cork dessicated, the wine displaying a dull dusty (almost murky) red. But it sprang to life immediately upon the first whiff, offering a bouquet of mild medicinal and herbal aromas, still stuffed with abundant fruit that had tapered over the years into a raisiny note with overtones of lacquer. As one would expect, the acidity was beginning to fade on the palate although enough remained to impart some liveliness at the edges, the wine utterly smooth and seamless with good density (rather than outright depth), becoming more open in texture over time, eventually developing a chewy velvety feel by the final few pours. Certainly a much better bottle than my initial experience. But I wouldn’t keep any longer.
Ric’s Most Memorable Wines of 2012
Here goes Ric’s choices, based on my tasting experiences in 2012…
Best Unaffordable Red: 1995 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (February). Absolutely superb. At Les Amis and, of course, someone else paid for it.
Best Affordable Red: 1994 Ch L’Evangile (March). The wines of 1994 have taken a long time to come around, and the best hail from Pomerol, of which L’Evangile is truly wonderful. Almost on par with Petrus of the same vintage (not surprising, considering they are adjacent estates), but why shell out extra cash when the difference isn’t significant?
Most Memorable Red: 1988 Ch Troplong Mondot (April). A classic aged claret, memorable because I had it at the best dining venue in New York – Eleven Madison Park.
Best Value Red: 2005 Ch Bernardotte (magnum) (May). It surpasses some of those over-rated classified growths. This is where your smart money should be.
Most Disappointing Red: 2004 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru (March). I’ve stopped buying Faiveley: prices aren’t cheap, and I’ve always felt short-changed by its quality. This Clos de Beze is a poor example of this outstanding terroir.
Worst Red: 2002 Clonakilla shiraz-viognier (January). Mind you, all previous examples of this estate’s flagship shiraz have impressed me deeply, but this 2002 was worse than a supermarket red.
Best Unaffordable White: To be honest, I hadn’t had any that blew my mind and wallet.
Best Affordable White: 2004 J J Prum Graacher Himmelreich kabinett (March). Wonderful. I can’t imagine anyone not liking this immensely.
Most Memorable White: 2000 Grosset Polish Hill riesling and 2005 Heymann-Lowenstein ”Uhlen Roth Lay” Erste Lage Auslese Gold Kapsule. A tie. The former because I’ve never had a 12-year old Australian dry riesling that was still every bit as heavenly; the latter because I had it at another premier dining venue in New York – Per Se.
Best Value White: 2009 Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verze (July). Tasted several times with consistent notes. Punches way above its weight.
Most Disappointing White: 1988 Ch Rieussec (March). Tasted twice. Consistently disappointing. I’ve stopped drinking Rieussec.
Worst White: None, thankfully.
I must thank all friends and contributors who had so unselfishly made available these wines for tasting. Bon vin et merci beaucoup!
Notes in brief (Dec 2012): 1990 La Dominic, 1982 Meyney, 2001 Elderton Command, 1997 La Conseillante, 1998 Beausejour Becot
2002 Penfolds St Henri shiraz, at Ben’s BBQ, 01 Dec 2012. Part of a half-dozen mis-priced at only SGD58 about 5 years ago from Bottles & Bottles at Parkway Parade. Aired in bottle under ice cover for almost an hour. Deep, dark, luxurious with plenty of blackcurrants and sweet ripe shiraz from a cool growing season, as evidenced by the marked absence of heat stress nor alcoholic trail, utterly smooth and rounded, weighty yet remarkably well-balanced. Superbly crafted without any jarring edges. I’d say it’s yet to peak, but it is absolutely beautiful to drink at this stage.
1982 Ch Meyney (courtesy John), popped and poured from magnum at Ben’s BBQ, 01 Dec 2012. Aired in bottle under ice cover for about 45 minutes. Still very much alive with the unmistakable signature of a well-aged Medoc – the dry smoky tannins imparting a dusty texture, the fruit slightly backward and musty, the acidity levels already dipping low, contributing to the overall smoothness. Yet to dry out but I wouldn’t keep any longer.
2011 Wither Hills sauvignon blanc, at the Krisflyer Business Class lounge, Changi Airport T3, 4 Dec 2012. Goes very well with food, a wine that grows on you, medium to full bodied with attractive notes of tropical fruits, peaches and pineapple, liovely without the overt crispness, matched by limey minerality. I guess you can’t really go wrong with any sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand.
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV, over dinner at Choon Seng Punggol Seafood restaurant, 16 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. More of lifted aromas of white flowers and fresh clear citrus rather than the usual toasty yeasty notes, supported by delicate minerality and lively acidity combined with fine gentle bubbles, ensuring that the wine doesn’t veer too much towards dryness.
2005 Patrick Javillier Savigny-les-Beaune “Les Serpentieres” 1er Cru, over lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 17 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Third time I’ve had this wine, and this was the best experience, by far. Caught at an exciting stage where the wine has clearly enetered its drinking window, soft yet fleshy, hitting all the right notes of red cherries, camphor and dark rose petals carrying just the right weight and body without any hollowness, supported by understated earthy minerality. It doesn’t quite have the intensity and opulence of a Gevrey-Chambertin, but it can certainly hold its ground on any table.
2007 Palazzo Desti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, at Imperial Treasure T3, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Medium-bodied with a prominent plummy tone, no doubt from the sangiovese, with other red fruit characters, softening into a more relaxed wine after some 30 minutes, littered with a dash of spice and licorice that offered some grip on the palate. Enjoyable.
2006 L’Hospitalet de Gazin (courtesy Ben), at a ward dinner, Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Medium-full and surprisingly firm for a second wine, with aromas of dark cherries, wild berries and earth amidst other gravelly textures, soft at the edges, grippy on the palate. It’s really quite good, actually.
2005 Ch Bernadotte, at a ward dinner, Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured from magnum. Compared to a previous tasting earlier this year, this wine seems to have become more withdrawn and reticent, a quiet nose of blueberries and dark currants lurking in the background, firm and full on the palate, yet to shed its vanillin coat nor made any progress in development. But I can imagine it turning into something deep, dark and delicious over time. Plenty of potential.
1998 Ch Beausejour Becot, at a ward dinner at Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Still relatively unevolved in color, offering notes of licorice, chocolate, enamel, plums and orangey citrus with a trace of sweetness, fairly full and weighty on the palate, developing greater depth and layering with lighter textures after 60 minutes, eventually exuding a powerful complex glow. 
Excellent but still yet to peak. Keep.
1990 Ch La Dominic (courtesy John), at a ward dinner at Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Although hailing from the same commune as the Beausejour, this wine possessed an immediacy on the nose that was more arresting with fragrant notes of red roses and red fruits combined with an attractive earthy note, gradually gaining in power and weight over time, displaying complex tertiary characters that were quite lovely. Gives the impression that the wine has yet to peak. Excellent.
1998 Ch Lanessan, over a cote du boeuf at Wall St Bistro, 21 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Slightly uneven initially, eventually gaining weight and smoothening out with attractive notes of tangy citrus, red fruits, forest floor, cedar and cinnamon, carrying good weight and body though neither rich nor opulent. But it’s still a good drop, and probably the best Lanessan I’ve had. At SGD33, I’m happy to drink this any time.
Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV, at an early Christmas dinner on 22 Dec 2012. Popped and poured, drunk over 30 minutes. Very well-balanced at the start with lifted notes of lively lime and citrus flavours coupled with delicate minerality, not much of the usual toasty notes. However, it began veering towards more dryness, threatening to become abrasive. I suppose it was drunk way too quickly. Will reserve judgement.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill riesling, at a Christmas Eve lunch at Moomba which, incidentally, is the last meal being served at this restaurant as it is closing down for good. Aired briefly in bottle. A broad swathe of peach, green melons, green apples and lively citrus, forward in character, obscured the underlying minerality, eventually developing a slightly steely and flinty note in the mid-body that led to an austere finish. Seemed unsettled and somewhat awkward at the moment. This is a highly age-worthy riesling and I’d leave my remaining bottles alone for at least another few years.
2001 Elderton Command shiraz (courtesy John), at a Christmas Eve lunch at Moomba. Double-decanted and aired further in bottle for 3-4 hours prior to tasting. I’ve always been impressed with this estate’s flagship shiraz and this tasting note confirms. Displaying some bricking at the rim, this aged shiraz is still remarkably full-bodied but superbly balanced, the huge body of smooth ripe fruit explodes on the mid-palate in a burst of spice, pepper, licorice, sweet plums, wild berries and dark currants enveloped by a lovely warmth and structure, possessing just the right degree of depth, utterly smooth and sophisticated without any alcoholic trail, inviting one to partake more with each sip without causing fatigue to the palate. Not quite the last word in complexity, but probably all the better. Superb.
2006 Ch Malartic-Lagraviere, popped and poured at La Barca, 28 Dec 2012. Already quite accessible at this stage with notes of violets, blueberries and dark currants, displaying excellent concentration, weight and balance without being in-your-face. Yet to shed its vanilla coat from the wood, and neither has the Pessac-Leognan terroir surfaced. Expertly crafted.
2011 Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc (courtesy F) at the Dept year-end dinner, Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Fruit-forward with notes of melons, fig, pears with a lovely degree of ripeness, leading to a cool, refreshing finish. Very good, in fact.
2006 Peccavi chardonnay, at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Quite precocious with generous notes of cream and buttery wafers, displaying substantial fat within the mid-body, supported by rich minerality. More focused and tight compared to a previous tasting several months ago. Excellent ageing potential.
2001 Baroosa Old Vines shiraz (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured from magnum. Predictably huge and full-bodied, but remarkably well-balanced, the unmistakable character of Barossa shiraz picked at optimal ripeness, offering an attractive mix of red and dark fruits, camphor and rose petals underlined by powerful herbal and medicinal aromas, displaying excellent weight and depth. Yet to peak, I’d say, and just slightly less sophisticated than the Elderton Command shiraz of the same vintage. Quite excellent. A superb bargain at SGD88.
1998 Tahbilk shiraz (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Markedly different from the above wine, the bouquet dominated by a powerful glow of tangy citrus and plums, highly attractive, rounded and well-balanced on the palate, littered with notes of mint and menthol. Very good.
2004 Clos du Marquis (courtesy F), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Coming at a distinct disadvantage immediately right after those Aussie reds, this claret appeared totally laidback and disinterested, struggling to gain the palate’s attention. Nevertheless, the classic Bordeaux balance is quite apparent, smooth and easy and drinking very well now.
1997 Ch La Conseillante (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Coming last in the line-up, but clearly the wine of the night. Surprisingly powerful on the nose with notes of dark cherries, spice and earth, almost matching the Aussie reds, medium-full on the palate with excellent weight and definition without any hollowness. Quite unbelievable, for a 1997. Excellent.
2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, popped and poured at Ka Soh, 29 Dec 2012. Quite open with a mix of red fruits and raspberries, not as plummy as one might have expected from the sangiovese, gaining in weight and concentration very quickly, well-balanced, soft and fleshy with subdued tannins. Very pleasant and attractive.
2004 Voyager Estate cabernet merlot, my last drop for 2012, drunk at an office New Year’s Eve party, 31 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. One can easily discern the stern structured and smoky cabernet against the softer, more supple merlot. But in spite of the abundant fruit, the marriage here isn’t quite harmonious, lacking in character, rather generic tasting.
1982: Figeac, Leoville-Poyferre, Montrose & 1975 Haut-Brion
An impromptu Bacchus dinner called at extremely short notice as a final push before the New Year ended up being a 1982 Bordeaux horizontal to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this great vintage, vindicated amply by the wines we drank this evening, 26 Dec 2012, which all displayed great longevity, complexity, vigour and freshness in spite of the bottle age. 
And to make things even better, chef Michele of Otto Ristorante rose effortlessly to the occasion with a selection of his signature creations, topped with shavings from his final lot of Alba white truffles.
We began with a 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne (courtesy Li Fern) that was popped and poured. Served a tad too cold initially, but notes of melons, pears, fig and traces of nectar were already readily apparent along with substantial fat in the mid-body, highly perfumed and glowing with delicate minerality, gaining further depth with a thrilling complexity, staying the course throughout dinner, finishing on a slightly ferrous note. 
Much preferable than the 1999. An excellent start.
The four reds that followed were drunk simultaneously. I can still remember when I last had a 1975 Ch Haut Brion, which happened to be the occasion of Hiok’s farewell dinner at Moomba in early March 2006 before he left for sabbatical. It was quite fitting, therefore, that he brought the same wine (decanted on-site) for dinner this evening, but what a difference! Whereas the previous tasting seemed to indicate a premier cru on its last legs, the current bottle, in spite of its dull dusty red, was still remarkably robust with powerful aromas of earth, old leather, camphor and sweet incense that morphed into intense medicinal aromas, but in a positive sense, almost full-bodied and grippy on the palate with a tinge of licorice and a final note of tangy citrus without fading away. Most memorable.
The 1982 Ch Figeac (courtesy Kieron, decanted on-site) displayed initial full-throttled earthy aromas of wild berries and damp forest floor with an attractive ferrous quality, no doubt from the cabernet sauvignon which is the predominant component of the wines of this estate. It gradually evolved with emerging red fruits of excellent depth and concentration, just a tad angular and austere on the finish before finally hitting its stride after two hours, turning into a warm, homogenous and feminine wine. Very lovely. Next to it, the 1982 Ch Leoville Poyferre (courtesy Danny, decanted on-site) possessed the powerful unmistakable Saint Julien signature of a highly complex bouquet characterised by a graphite, ferrous quality married to a strangely attractive pungent note that hinted at substantial fat, but the wine was distinctly medium-bodied on the palate, outdone entirely by the highly seductive bouquet, its beautiful, complex and high-toned glow continued to entice the olfactory senses throughout the evening. 
Too beautiful to be drunk, and I suppose this estate never diasappoints, regardless of vintage. Finally, the 1982 Ch Montrose, still remarkably deep in color, was wildly exuberant with powerful dank earthy aromas (old socks ??) amidst notes of violets, cedar and dark currants with more than a touch of greenness on the palate. It gradually settled into a quiet complex harmonious whole, the leafy notes eventually disappearing totally, displaying great structure and delineation. A classic Left Bank, bringing an outstanding dinner to its conclusion. Enjoy the pictures.
Ric's Wine Journal 