Catching up at Moomba, with 2001 Pichon Lalande
Ever since I became acquainted with the restaurant Moomba at Boat Quay, I have not had a disappointing experience there. Serving contemporary modern cuisine with an Australian slant, the food is consistently good (very good, in fact), the service casual but attentive, pricing is reasonable and, best of all, it’s the only non-Chinese restaurant I know of that offers BYO on Fridays and Saturdays (otherwise corkage of SGD25 applies on other days, closed Sundays).
I caught up with David on a Friday, and we began with a 2004 Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four to go with the salad, Hokkaido scallops and foie gras. This white Burgundy is a great over-achiever. Very light golden, but it gave a very expressive nose of lime and chalk, with the right dose of minerality without being too overbearing. Excellent body, notes of vanilla and cream with lots of layering, especially rich in the middle with incredible density. Very lively. However, the balance is a bit skewed with the chalky note becoming just a tad too over-the-top after some time. The top Burgundies are supremely effortless, whereas here one senses that these qualities did not come quite as naturally. But, really, I’m quibbling too much. At SGD50-60, I’ll happily drink this anytime. Superb.
The 2001 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (I much prefer the full name) that followed, dark limpid red, gave off a very masculine profile on the nose – plenty of deep cabernet notes – thanks to the large proportion (14%) of petit verdot that year. The reason for this is best known to the winemaker, but the call paid off handsomely. There was a initial hint of undergrowth, even though the wine had been decanted for at least 30 minutes, but it soon disappeared. Medium-full with excellent grip, the typicity of Left Bank Medoc being quite unmistakable, where the rich dark fruit character is intermixed with savoury toasty oak and coffee, only that the usual velvety tannins of the Comtesse has been replaced by the firmer structure of the petit verdot. Last tasted at Kome on the occasion of the 2009 New Year’s Day lunch, where I remembered the wine was considerably soft and accessible, imbued with lots of the pencil shavings/cigar box Pauillac character. So, an atypical Comtesse de Lalande but, nevertheless, still marvellous. It proved to be a great match with the lamb and grilled sirloin, mellowing slightly as the meal progressed, becoming quite harmonious and seamless. Still very much on the ascent, no doubt. Excellent. Will be great in another 5 years.
2000 Ch Monbousquet @ Saint-Pierre
One of the blessed things about the recent economic downturn is the relative reduction in pricing to be found in almost all upmarket restaurants, which have been forced to offer more value for money without sacrificing quality. The most attractive offers are the lunch menu, and of all the current establishments, Saint-Pierre probably has the best offer: SGD28++ and SGD38++ for two and three courses, respectively. It’s absolutely a steal for this sort of top quality food and service, with BYO on Tuesdays. 
And so on a spur-of-the-moment, we dropped by Saint Pierre with a 2000 Ch Monbousquet in tow. I recognised the boyish-looking manager Jan Stroop, formerly from The French Kitchen (“…no longer!”), who ushered us. The initial bouquet was overwhelming, a huge fragrance wafting over the table as the wine was decanted, deeply flavoured, of dark fruits, blackcurrants and berries. Deep dark red, the first sip revealed a big wine, full-bodied with some thickness in the middle. This cleared after 30 minutes, the wine opening up and luxuriating in its richness, showing excellent grip, plenty of depth, great concentration without over-extraction, finishing very long. It simply got better and better as lunch wore on, matching the beef cheek perfectly. By the time we were indulging in an excellent cheese selection, accompanied by a nice spread of condiments, the wine had gained immeasurably in breadth and complexity, covered with velvety sexy tannins, beautifully poised and voluptuous. This is a very modern St Emilion, and very unashamedly so. Purists may baulk, but I appreciate a delicious drop anytime. I liked it. This occasion won’t be forgotten.
Notes in brief (October 2009)…
2002 Bass Phillip Belrose Pinot Noir, a real bargain at only SGD25 from Caveau’s warehouse sale. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure, ION. The initial impression was that this was an atypical pinot: much darker, muted, woody, medium bodied, rather simple and straightforward with a short finish. However, it developed a true pinot character after 45 minutes – the woody element had disappeared, replaced by a fragrant nose of ripe cherries, the body fleshing out, gaining in richness, with some very decent layering topped with a dash of complexity, ending in a more satisfying finish. Very good.
2003 Ch Lafon-Rochet, second time in as many months, again from a half bottle over dim sum at Imperial Treasure T3. Dense and big, the heat from the prominent alcohol of this very hot vintage getting in the way of things, obscuring the flavours of the fruit, not helped by the tough unyielding tannins. Frankly, the previous occasion last month wasn’t much better. Although relatively inexpensive at SGD46 (375 ml), it’s not really enjoyable.
2003 Maison Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet, bought cheaply from Bob from a distressed restaurant’s list. Only SGD20! Pale straw color. Decent body, with adequate stuffing of citrus and lime, laced with a grassy note, but uneven, ending a bit short. But I’m not complaining at this price.
2006 Clos du Marquis, popped and poured right after the Cote Rotie below. Deep dark red, smouldering with rich ripe fruit. Excellent grip, full-bodied but balanced and surprisingly accessible for this particular wine, which can be a bruiser at such a young stage in other vintages. It gained further weight and intensity with aeration, becoming more savoury, even opening up a little to reveal some inner depth. A class act, definitely on par with a Second or Third growth. Very good.
1999 M. Chapoutier Cote Rotie “La Mordoree”, at Vic’s new practice location. Dusty red. Quite reticent on the nose, just a bit of mint and spice, preferring to unravel itself on the palate, where notes of cool mint and liquorice dominate its full body, finishing with the tell-tale plummy note of ripe syrah supported by firm but unobtrusive tannins. Not really complex, though, in spite of its age and old vine heritage (about 80 years). Also lacking in layering and depth. But when one’s thirsty, this does its job.
2002 Cullen Diana Madeline, over a wonderful steak at Foo House. I had decanted half into a half bottle 3 hours earlier, stashing it away in the fridge, bringing the remaining half to the restaurant. Deep, impenetrable red. There wasn’t much on the nose – just wild berries and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, the wine was obviously big, and initially quite disjointed, both cabernet and merlot components clearly quite disaparate. After about 20 minutes, with the first morsels of food, it morphed together into a more seamless whole, open enough, with the merlot providing some sizzling intensity amidst the tight, silky tannins. But this wine, seven years after vintage, was still very primal, lacking in secondary development, finishing on an austere, almost bitter note. And so it remained. Honestly, if tasted blind, I’d have been hard pressed to tell that this is, supposedly, one of Australia’s top drops. I think Moss Wood reigns supreme in Western Australia. But I’m not giving up hope. Still have a few bottles from 2001-3. Will not open the next until 4-5 years later.
2004 Rockford “Rifle Range” Cabernet Sauvignon, at the excellent Golden Peony, Conrad International. One of my favourite wineries in South Australia. Beautiful deep purple, with lifted aromas of sweet dark berries and currants that ran deep. Nicely ripe, but not over-extracted, with the unmistakable warmth of rich Barossa fruit supported by firm tannins. If blinded, I could well have mistaken it for a shiraz, such was the distinctiveness of its Barossa character, perhaps just lacking that plummy note typical of Barossa shiraz. This will be long-lived. Excellent, from a half bottle.
1997 Ch Sociando Mallet, at Hiok’s Bar after hours over camembert cheese and crackers. Murky reddish-brown, with an evolved rim. The initial sip wasn’t encouraging, the wine coming across as lacking in body, the fruit drying out, although there were adequate notes of dark chocolate and undergrowth. However, the final pour from bottom quarter of the bottle half hour later was almost totally different – a lot fruitier, more fleshy, rounded, even managing to add some depth and nuance. A satisfying table wine from a weak vintage.
2005 Ch Bernadotte, owned and made by Ch Pichon Lalande since 1996, over a simple dinner at Ka-Soh. Deep red with some lightening at the rim. The bouquet that rose from the glass after the first pour was opulent and delicious, seemingly more developed than the last bottle tasted 8 months ago. On the palate, however, it came across as being full-bodied and hard, lacking richness, with the tough tannins ensuring an angular finish. Forty-five minutes after pairing with blackpepper beef and roast chicken, it quickly mellowed, becoming much softer and rounder, with a smoother finish. The mid-palate could still do with more stuffing, though.
2004 Caves Jean et Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru “Montmains”, with bamboo clams, century egg, dim sum and seafood noodles at Asia Grand. Beautiful clear light golden. The initial bouquet was laden with vanilla, which gave way after a few minutes to lifted aromas of light citrus, honeydew, and limestone. Medium bodied, quite rich, with good focus and great acidity, ensuring plenty of freshness, the bit of austere touch at the finish providing great contrast. A wonderful match with century egg, which exposed the wine’s hidden depth and flavours. Good stuff, from a half bottle.
1996 Ch Croizet-Bages, at Imperial Treasure T3. Bright red with a vermillon rim. There was some initial bottle stink – a strong barnyard nose – that blew off after a few minutes, revealing a fairly deep nose of brandied cherries. Still quite full-bodied in spite of age, but, unfortunately, it lacked quality fruit in the middle, drying out towards an angular finish. It became softer and rounder after about an hour, but the hollowness on the mid-palate still remained. Drink up, which was what we did.
Dinner with Li-Wei
This was a highly-anticipated dinner, planned several weeks ahead, with Vic and Ed at Imperial Treasure Great World City, to welcome LW to Singapore. The wines, an unlikely line-up, exceeded all expectations.
We began with a 2005 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, which I retrieved from my cellar early this morning, after having run out of options. I needn’t have worried. Pale straw colored, its bouquet leapt out of the glass from the word go. Lovely scents of perfume and white flowers in full bloom, broad and expansive on the palate, great depth, quite complex, not too much of the ubiquitous minerality one finds in most whites, eventually developing a nutty, buttery texture. Rich, full, and long. Simply excellent. By far the best chardonnay I’ve had from Leeuwin. Better than the bottle I had over dinner at Leeuwin Estate itself last June. In fact, it’s one of the best chardonnays I’ve had anytime. Superb.
The 1996 Ch Calon Segur that followed was equally outstanding. A dark but evolved red, with the slightly dank nose of a mature claret. Wonderful entry, soft, very mellow, very harmonious, very open. Great body, the cool ripe fruit tickling the palate with complex tertiary flavours, finishing very gently with non-existent tannins. Has the feel of an aged mid-80s Bordeaux, rather than a 1996. Excellent depth, but less powerful than a comparable ’96 from, perhaps, Pauillac or St Julien. Totally different from a previous bottle tasted 4 years ago, also at Imperial Treasure, where it was still showing its tough and gravelly St Estephe character. However, the bottle this evening had evolved so far that there was no way of telling that this is a St Estephe, only that it is a wonderful wine, drinking beautifully. Having had the 1995 and now the 1996, I have developed a new-found respect for Ch Calon Segur. It’s a St Estephe that develops quicker than, say, Montrose or Cos D’Estournel, yet imbued with its own personality. Really wonderful stuff. Two bottles left.
The next two dessert wines were really interesting. LW had brought back a 2006 Ch Haut Garrigue Premier Or, from the region of Saussignac, made by a South African couple Sean and Caroline Feely who’d moved to Bordeaux, whom LW had spent some time with at their vineyard. Light golden in color. The initial impression was a lighter-styled Sauternes, full of finesse and notes of barley, with just the right touch of sweetness. It rapidly gained weight in the glass, becoming very full, with the fresh acidity bursting through, turning even sweeter, yet never coying, developing notes of glue, and emulsion (from Ed, I agree!). Throughout, the note of new oak was quite prominent, but never obtrusive. Very unique. I liked it.
Next to it, the 2007 Krebs-Grode Eimsheimer Sonnenhang Riesling Einswein (Vic), showing a heavy shade of orange, exhibited intense notes of apricot, nectar and honey, with loads of fresh acidity. Quite the perfect way to end the night. At only 18 Euros, I’d better look out for it at Frankfurt duty-free when I’m there next week!!
A dinner of Vosne-Romanee Grand Cru
This theme, characteristic of KG’s usual high standards, was set for a dinner to welcome YW, back on one of his regular visits as Rand consultant. The venue was The French Kitchen, a simple setup with minimalist decor, but more importantly, it’s conducive for oenophiles (BYO Mondays), providing excellent stemware, attentive service, and excellent food without busting one’s wallet. I was late, and arrived to find that 3 wines have been poured, all blinded, with mine the only one remaining. I’m still groping my way about the complexities of Burgundy, basically still very much a novice. However, the group thought I was merely being self-deprecating, and insisted that I identify the wines blind. And so under the watchful eyes of Burgundian hounds like KG and Chad, I tried to summon my woeful knowledge…
The first red displayed a dusty tone that suggested a well-aged wine. Rather shy on the nose in spite of persistent coaxing. However, it turned out to have a fuller body on the palate than suggested by its outer appearance, with the stuffing still intact. Very mellow and harmonious, although, compared to the other reds, this felt a bit rough at the edges, with a slight tannic finish. The fruit seemed to dry out after an hour or so. A quiet wine, contented to sit out its remaining years. I guessed a Grands Echezeaux from the mid-90s. Turned out to be a 1990 Georges Noellat Grands Echezeaux (courtesy of KG). Not a bad try!
The second wine, showing a deeper red, immediately impressed with a fuller bouquet saturated with top notch red fruit characters. This carried well onto the palate, revealing a fairly big wine of great concentration, richness and refinement. Very lush and seamless, with that slick “oily” character on the mid-palate that adds layers to its wonderful depth, finishing long. Throughout, one was struck by its purity of expression of the pinot noir, which was quite profound. A superb wine. In fact, I was reminded of the DRC Grands Echezeaux tasted at Iggy’s the previous week. I guessed a 1999 Romanee-Saint-Vivant. It turned out to be a 1995 Antonin Rodet Romanee-Saint-Vivant (courtesy Chad). Not bad again!
The third red, courtesy of JJ, was even bigger and fuller than the preceding wines. Medium-bodied, again very refined, seamless and lush. Very open on the mid-palate, with sexy, velvety sophisticated tannins, although I felt it contained less depth compared with the 1995 Rodet. A touch angular at the finish. Curiously, it didn’t really evolve much in the glass, remaining quite static. I thought it would be a younger Grands Echezeaux, but it turned out to be a 2001 Follin-Arbelet Romanee-Saint-Vivant, which has gained a bit of a cult following ever since it appeared in the Japanese manga comic strip The Drops of God.
The final wine, a 2003 Rene Engel Echezeaux which I brought, had the darkest red and the most powerful nose, consistent with its youth. Nevertheless, it was quite open in the middle, with good focus, allowing the predominant sweet ripe fruit to excel. Quite lush and balanced, finishing long with well-integrated tannins, and none of that tell-tale burnt note of a hot vintage. Quite excellent, I must say. Chad got the vintage correct, even venturing to hazard an initial guess of a RSV, before I let out that it may not be considered a Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanee. That ain’t my fault…as Clive Coates MW classified Grands Echezeaux and Echezeaux, both strictly from the commune of Flagey-Echezeaux, as Vosne-Romanee grand crus!! It goes to show my meagre knowledge that I wasn’t aware of this bit of controversy till the evening itself! Well, at least I got some education out of this dinner. Thanks to all concerned, and I must say The French Kitchen deserves a return visit.
Notes in brief (September)…
2006 Leopold Aumann Harterberg CS-M-ZW, over boiled beef at the excellent restaurant Immervoll in Vienna, Austria. That last bit stood for 40% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot, and 20% zweigelt. Deep dark red, with hardly any bouquet. The palate revealed a delicious, smooth, fruit-driven wine that was quite elegant and well-balanced, without trying too hard. Made in a New World style. With time, it developed further intensity, but it still remained a simple, straightforward table wine that does its job. 54 Euros, from the restaurant list.
2008 JJ Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Kabinett Riesling, at the in-laws. Straw-colored. Lovely bouquet, full of floral and lime notes, very fragrant. Well balanced, with a fairly rich vein of minerality but never excessive, finishing with just the right touch of sweetness. Excellent.
2004 The Moorooduc Chardonnay, over beehoon crab at Ming Kee, its signature dish. Luminous pale golden. Initially served too warm, the body was disjointed from the nose, which carried very floral and delicate notes of citrus, chalk and minerals. As it hit the right temperature, the body firmed up, carrying some weight, but still very chunky and unresolved on the mid-palate. Good concentration, but it lacked depth and richness at this stage. A good chardonnay, no doubt, but I suspect it needs much more time in bottle. Two more left.
2002 Domaine Faiveley Nuits St-Georges 1er Cru “Les Vignerondes”, after hours. A classic Burgundy red in every way – lighter dusky red, lovely bouquet of fresh cherries and raspberries without being over-exuberant, medium-bodied, very even on the palate, polished, moderate depth and finish. Doesn’t pack power, but otherwise very correct. A good one.
The 2006 Littorai Hirsch Vineyard, from Sonoma County, drunk alongside the Faiveley above, surprisingly has almost the same color as the Burgundy. However, the nose was perceptibly heavier, with dominant notes of barley and malt (!). Also medium-bodied, but a bit fuller, with excellent fruit quality, the note of malt persisting on the palate which wasn’t intrusive; rather, it added an exotic touch. Moderate depth, with a sweet finish. Still quite primal and straightforward at this stage, but I’m sure it’ll age very well. Good stuff.
2004 Ulithorne Frux Frugis Shiraz, at June’s wedding dinner on 20.09.2009 at 2009h. Neat. This is a relatively new estate in McLaren Vale, which I first got acquainted with during a dinner at Sage some 2-3 years ago, with the winemaker in attendance. The wines had shown up very well then, but this bottle tonight was disappointing. Too much wood on the nose, with heavy doses of incense and smoke that carried well onto the palate. Even the plummy, sweet fruit failed to shake off the heaviness. Far too disjointed. The wine eventually developed a sweet-sour edge. I didn’t like it, and I don’t think it’ll age well. Just as well it’s my last bottle.
2004 Ch Leoville Poyferre, my third bottle over the last 6 months, from a half-bottle over dinner at Crystal Jade T2. Deep dark red. Seemed more reticent this time round, more subdued, but notes of dark berries emerged after persistent coaxing. Full-bodied, austere, huge on the mid-palate, still quite primal, trace of alcohol, firm tannins. Quite awkward on the whole, and not much in terms of flavours – a wine that’s probably going to shut down soon, although I have no doubt in 10 years it will be excellent. Business seemed slow at this Crystal Jade branch, and they have waived corkage, supplying excellent Oberglas 1860 stemware.
1996 Ch Potensac, at TMCC. Ruby red with bit of dusty rim. Quite fruity on the nose, holding up well on the palate, a wine that’s beginning to soften, although still big and quite backward. It mellowed with further aeration, smoothening its rustic edges, transforming into quite a harmonious wine that went very well with the black pepper steak and spicy dishes. Drinking much better than a previous bottle Fatty brought 4 years ago at the old Asia Grand. Very good.
2003 Ch Lafon-Rochet, at Foo House over a Monster Burger, from a half-bottle. Deep impenetrable red. Quite shut. Also subdued on the palate, though one can appreciate its full-bodied nature, ripe fruit, and firm structure. Surprisingly one doesn’t get the raisiny toasted note of a very hot vintage. The only hint was the discernible alcoholic bed, but even that was held in check and deemed acceptable for a young Left Bank. I’m not sure how this will evolve in the long run, but no harm drinking now.
1999 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron. Part One: at Asia Grand, to celebrate Monster’s first-placing in his swimming heat. Knowing that the missus and I would struggle through a full bottle over a simple meal, I had poured half into a half-bottle immediately upon opening and sealed it, bringing only the remaining half to the restaurant. Somewhat disappointing. The nose was rather musty, suggesting an imbalance of wood over fruit, which was the exact experience on the palate. The fruit appeared to have dried out quite a bit, leaving behind a disjointed core with unresolved dusty tannins. I’d expected more, as a bottle tasted earlier this year at Jade Palace was lush, bold and drinking very well. The current bottle in question was purchased recently at Crystal’s megasale. Perhaps of dubious provenance? Part Two: drank the remaining half two evenings later at the in-laws. It kept very well in the bottle, with none of the oxidised note. It seemed to taste better, more even and fruitier, although essentially it lacked richness and density. I may wait another year or two before opening the next bottle.
2006 Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir, at Majestic. Definitely tasting better than the sample I had few nights ago at the American Club (see below): fresher, more delicious. The bouquet is underlined by the slightest trace of alcohol, to be expected for a young wine, but there is abundant rich fruit to support it. Soft, with a rich core, excellent definition. None of the burnt note or heat of a very dry vintage. Hasn’t gained complexity, but this has great potential. A very good New World pinot noir.
2002 Ch Rauzan-Segla, second time in as many months from my remaining half-bottle, again at Foo House with the missus over an excellent tenderloin steak. Very austere and disjointed, lacking in quality fruit to support the alcohol, which was quite jarring. Hollow. We didn’t even finish it.
2007 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, at Kome. Supposedly one of the best rieslings from Australia, Clare Valley. A lot of acidity initially that obscured the flavours. Gradually regained its balance after an hour, tasting very fresh, with loads of citrus, lime and minerality without being too dry. But its a bit edgy. I’ve had better examples from 2006.
American Club tasting
I was fortunate to be invited back to the American Club for an evening of premium wines on 5 Sept 2009, where any vendor that mattered was represented, each presenting a fine selection of wines for free tasting, coupled with free flow of food. The only drawback was that it’s only standing room, but that’s a small price to pay for the opportunity to taste more than 200 different wines. So, very briefly…
The Whites: Grosset Grande Reserve Brut NV (disappointingly bland, too much fizz, lacked focus); Bauget-Jouette Brut Reserve NV (very pleasant and agreeable, if a tad simple. I’ll be happy to drink this anytime); 2005 Vincent Girardin Mersault 1er Cru Charmes-Dessus (flinty, good acidity without too much minerality, attractive, quite ready to drink); 2005 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cr Les Folatieres (more body than the Mersault, more stuffing, but a tad shy on the whole, needs more time); 2006 Louis Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos (excellent example of a Chablis, light-medium, less complex than a Puligny-Montrachet); 2004 Moorooduc Chardonnay (at last a chardonnay with very decent body, halfway towards a Giaconda at one-third the price; we bought some).
The Reds: 2004 Conterno Fantino Barolo “Vigna del Gris” (big, dense, nebbiolo fruit quite discernible; lacks finesse expected of single vineyard Barolos); 2005 Roc de Cambes (cult wine, very difficult to source; modern, extracted but not over-done; very good, but very poor value for a Cote de Bourg); 1999 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon (hasn’t really evolved much, big, not much complexity, disjointed finish, touch of green); 2006 Vynfields Martinborough Pinot Noir (very attractive nose, well-made pinot, bit simple, but a good one, nonetheless); 2007 Vynfields Martinborough Pinot Noir (heavier than the 2006, more stuffing); 2007 Gibbston Highgate Soultaker Pinot Noir (also attractive on the nose, good body and finish, I quite liked it)…but the most attractive thing with the best body was that delicious babe from Rev Distribution Network who was the main reason for tasting the last 3 wines…2005 Domaine de Chevalier (lovely ripe cool fruit, hasn’t developed further complexity but clearly has enough depth to do so eventually); 2000 Ch de Fieuzal (excellent fruit quality, balanced, but not much sophistication); 2004 Ch Gruaud Larose (very classic, well-balanced, good fruit without any green note, will be drinking well; I liked it); 2000 Ch Lynch Moussas (quite an open expressive nose, but wasn’t particularly exciting on the palate); 1994 Ch Montrose (just popped open, seemed fatter, with more stuffing, than my previous experience earlier this year, no sign of the fruit drying out); 2002 Philip Togni Tanbark Cabernet Sauvignon (huge wine but smooth, well made, bit thick in the middle, still monolithic); 2004 Pio Cesare Barolo (rustic, earthy, speaks of the terroir, I suppose, good wine but out of place amongst these monster reds); 2005 Shafer Merlot (big, disappointing, doesn’t taste like merlot at all); 2005 Ch Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon (not the Estate, showing well, not as big as I thought it would be, has some depth); 1996 Ch Poujeaux (very attractive nose, medium, softening, good table wine, but nothing really special); 2005 JJ Hahn “1914” Shiraz (big, well made, smooth, but not special enough); 2006 Kay Bros Block 6 (obscured by obtrusive alcohol throughout, I poured it away); 2005 Bannockburn Serre Pinot Noir (very very nice nose, very correct, good body, manages to avoid over-extraction, we liked this); 2006 Kooyong Ferrous Pinot Noir (very good nose, but too lightweight for its own good); 2005 Rockford Basket Press (the best red of the night, superb fruit, dense, but has plenty of layering and Old World charm, trace of alcohol but that will disappear with time; we bought a case – only SGD 72!!); 2006 The Relic Shiraz Viognier (huge, viognier element discernible, nothing special now); 2005 Diggers Bluff Top Dog Shiraz (from son of Robert O’Callaghan, shares same fruit as the Rockford Basket Press; great quality, but doesn’t have the Rockford’s layering); 2007 Glaetzer Amon-Ra (huge, very well made, rich, ripe, without being unctuous; monolithic now, will be interesting to see how it develops); 2005 Yarra Yering Red No.2 (a blend of shiraz, viognier and marsanne; very attractive with liquorice, spice, mint, and cherries(?), but my palate was already worn by then); 2005 Cain Five (tries not be too big, succeeds somewhat, predominantly red fruit characters, but not distinctive).
That’s it: 32 samples over 3 hours. I was totally worn, even though I was spitting and pouring away two-thirds of my samples. Tasting those New World monsters again and again became nauseating. Well, I’ll be stuck with plenty of Rockford in my collection. I suppose that’s more of a good thing rather than bad. They need plenty of sleep, but at the rate I keep expanding my vertical collection, I’ll have to start thinking hard about how to drink them up.
Friends
What are friends for? Well, they stand by you through thick and thin, they are great company, and when it’s time to push the boat out, you can count on them to do so with great style and panache, at Iggy’s, no less, now amongst the world’s Top 50 restaurants, and deservedly so. Only here can one find top notch service by knowledgeable staff who carry off their smart efficiency with effortless grace, almost re-defining the standards of “smart casual”, matched with impeccable wine service, and food that delights at every instance, yet remaining focused and fuss-free. The best part is, the restaurant has even surpassed itself on this very occasion. We took our usual places at the Chef’s Table amidst cheerful banter within the most relaxed atmosphere possible, and focused on the wonderful wine and food that were about to unfold.
The 1999 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses was, in every way, the perfect aperitif that immediately set the tone for the entire evening. Pale, but it had a intriguing bouquet right from the first pour, with lifted aromas of vanilla and caramel intermixed with soft, floral notes of white flowers. This led to a wine of great body and mouthfeel, almost creamy smooth, with the right level of minerality and soft citrus, intense yet balanced, without any sign of heaviness. Very, very classy. Even the staff at Iggy’s were impressed. With time, it began peeling off its outer layer, revealing deep layers of flavours and stunning complexity, taking on more weight, showing off bit of yeasty note, gaining greater expanse, yet all the while maintaining that wonderful balance, elegance and finesse. This is a great champagne. C’est magnifique!!
This was a perfect start to the evening’s menu, which kicked off with a series of Aji, Summer Salad with black truffles, Sanma, and Cappellini, which were washed down with a 2001 Batard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive. An aristocratic light golden in color, not unlike some Carrera marble lit by the morning glow, immediately exuding its class with a rich, intense sheen of chalk and transparent citrus that leapt out of the glass, occasionally allowing you a peek at its hidden riches. I’m reminded of the Berliner Philharmoniker strings. As it hit the right temperature, a deeper note eventually emerged, of cream and cashews, carrying more weight, yet maintaining that transparency down to its depths. It continued to develop and evolve right till the end, showing off sweet notes of longans and lychees, with a bit of a bitter-sweet pomelo finish. Superb.
A trio of outstanding reds took over the limelight, matching the suckling pig, lamb and wagyu beef perfectly. The 1990 Sassicaia, a true Bordeaux blend grown on Tuscan soil, was deep red with some lightening at the rim, exuding a very powerful nose of mint, spice, and liquorice. Notes of ripe, mature dark fuits laced with saccharine, with a trace of oak, were deeply evident on the palate. Very smooth and seamless, tapering to a soft, mellow finish. The initial impression was a wine reminescent of a St Julien, save for that atypical minty note of liquorice. Its true colors emerged with subsequent pours, revealing layers of smoke and blueberry, the mint having disappeared, with power and depth breaking through that very harmonious surface, tasting every bit like a St Julien or Pauillac. Great stuff.
Red #2, served blind, was a Burgundy, opened since 3.00 PM. That much was clear. Dusty but clear red. It proved stunning rght from the initial whiff. The impressions whirled around my mind fast and furious: intense, powerful, sweet, top drawer red fruits, deeply layered, of plums and “san cha”, superb mouthfeel, slick, “oily” (always a sign of greatness in a Burgundy), luxurious, very very long and lingering, minty finish. Unbelievably rich. Great concentration (not to be mistaken for “thickness”, definitely not here), focus and precision. Precision – that was the key word. Every component in place, or to use another metaphor – not a single strand out of place. With time, it developed a saccharine coating, without sacrificing any of that power or elegance. It brought us to our feet. This is a great, great wine. It’s Burgundian nirvana, experienced live. C’est parfait!!
Coming after that, how can one move on from here? Red #3 proved that it’s possible! Again blinded. Deep red with a slight evolving rim. A very open, deep nose, with a hint of sweetness. One can sense, right away, the sizzling power and intensity beneath. Velvety sexy tannins, caressing the palate seductively. Great grip (!). Wonderful layers of rich fruit, with great concentration, as in Red #2, though with a tad less precision. Great control of power, finesse and elegance. One could tell it was not just an excellent claret. It contained too much breed and aristocracy. In a class of its own. I guessed a ’82 Mouton. Wrong. Something from 1994!! What on earth from that vntage could taste so good? I was reminded of a ’94 L’Evangile, and foolishly declared so (on hindsight, how could it be? [by then, we’d unveiled Red #2]). Actually, I was pretty close, geographically. Another great, great wine that I can never quite afford. Standing ovation, of course.
We closed the evening with a 1989 Dr Burklin-Wolf Beerenauslese. Very dark, tea-colored, but it had an excellent balance of apricot, honey, and nectar, although I felt the acidity was beginning to fade. Still tasting very well, nonetheless. I’m truly grateful to all who provided these riches – a very heartfelt merci beaucoup and danke. Wih Iggy’s rising above the occasion as well (with two additional courses thrown in for good measure), this dinner will be unforgettable.
Red #2: 2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux
Red #3: 1994 Chateau Petrus
Dept dinner at Kome
This has been one of the very best Dept dinners in recent memory. This time, we held it at Kome, with chef Lawrence and his able assistants at the helm. The food was outstanding, the service prompt and attentive in spite of the complete range of misbehaviour across all ranks, everyone enjoyed themselves thoroughly, at least 4 large format bottles of sake were drunk, and we also drank the following at the high table.
The Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV that started the evening was simple but fresh, doing its job of setting the stage for the pair of German rieslings that followed. The 2007 JJ Christoffel Erben Uziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Kieron), from an outstanding vintage, showed a level of complexity and sophistication way above its classification. Dull golden, with a very immediate and enticing bouquet of honey, peach and apricot that followed through onto the palate. Very good body and density, and fairly complex, finishing on a sweet note that suggests more of a spatlese. Quite a complete wine. Excellent. In contrast, the 2003 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, which is the second time I’m having this within a month, was more delicate and floral, coming across as a more elegant riesling, but it has more body, with that extra layer of “petrol” quality in the middle only found in German rieslings, creating more depth and complexity, finishing quite long, with the sweetness nicely tamed. I picked up a faint durian note on the nose, but Kieron vehemently disagreed. This is performing better than the previous one I had earlier this month. Perhaps the food pairing was more appropriate, compared with chilli crab.
Kieron also brought a 2002 Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru “Les Beaux Monts”, a truly classic Burgundy rouge. Pale but clear rusty red, it exuded the sort of oily, slick character on the mid-palate, which I find only present from good producers. Very good fruit quality, producing a very fragrant nose of red fruits and cherries. Just lacking that extra depth and power, but this went very well with the cuisine.
In contrast, the 1998 Ch Clos Fourtet, showing an evolving red with a tawny rim, was rather shy on the nose. It took a while to settle, eventually morphing into a soft, mellow wine with predominantly red fruit characters, finishing with fairly sophisticated tannins, the merlot component just discernible. Would not have guessed that it’s a Right Bank, but it doesn’t taste like a Medoc either. Doesn’t quite possess power nor depth, but it is drinking well, a good match with the JJ Confuron.
Ward 48 dinner at Jade Palace
Each edition of these dinners for the HOs and MOs seem to reach new heights – the budget goes up, the venue more upmarket, the cuisine more sophisticated. But most significantly, this latest dinner on 20 August 2009 saw a major breakthrough where truly great wines were drunk.
The senior table began the evening with a 2004 Domaine William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru “Fourchaume” (Kieron). Very light toned, with a very attractive bouquet – heavily scented, floral, undertones of peach and honey, carrying well onto the palate. Loads of minerality and acidity, producing a very structured wine that’s almost strict, no-nonsense in character. Finishes sprightly. Good stuff, but, unfortunately on this occasion, it was overshadowed by the next white.
The 2005 Hestan Chardonnay (PS), in contrast, was a lot more flamboyant. Golden hued, with an initial bouquet of grapefruit and pineapples that eventually blossomed at the correct temperature to show off loads of creme and vanilla. Lush, with good body and complexity, although the finish seemed cluttered and unresolved. Less stuffing than a Kistler or Talbott, but it kept getting bigger in the glass, producing a deep note of apricot even right at the end. Certainly stole the show.
However, it was the pair of reds that made us realise that the wine selection for these ward dinners has reached new heights. I was supposed to have brought an ’89 Clerc Milon, but I just couldn’t locate it in my cellar, and had to make do with a 1995 Ch Calon Segur. Rusty red with a slightly evolved rim, giving off a soft, mellow bouquet framed by a hint of rusticity, but there was an unmistakable searing intensity beneath all that softness, reflecting top quality fruit. The entry was soft, almost delicate, giving way to a wine that was totally seamless and harmonious, finishing on a tertiary savoury note. It gave the impression of an ’80s Bordeaux, rather than a mid-90s wine. Never before has this level of wine been encountered at a ward dinner. It does not have the kind of toughness or ruggedness associated with the northern Medoc that I recalled was readily apparent in a 1996 Calon Segur tasted 3 years ago. Some commented that it’s atypical of St Estephe, but I felt this is the kind of peak quality that all great clarets aspire to achieve, regardless of origin. A great wine, by any standard, caught at its peak.
The ’95 Calon Segur would have been a tough act to follow, but the 1996 Dominus (K) that followed, most amazingly, matched up to it in every way. A similar rusty red, but slightly more evolved, with a very attractive bouquet reflecting ripe succulent fruit, laced with a touch of glycerin. Great entry as well, seamless, great body, good grip, infused with loads of cigar box and that so-called pencil shavings character. Very Old World. Would have easily mistaken it for a Pauillac. It got even better in the glass, developing velvety tannins, remaining absolutely harmonious and finishing long. Fantastic. I believe this bottle will be quite irreplaceable, and I’m grateful for the opportunity to taste it.
Ric's Wine Journal 