FICOFI: Chateau de Meursault 2015

FICOFI was kind enough to organise a dinner at short notice, featuring the 2015 wines of Domaine du Chateau de Meursault at the newly-anoited one-Michelin star Crystal Jade Paragon on 19 July 2017.  As I have alluded to elsewhere, this vintage has been outstanding for Burgundy reds with the whites just half a step behind. However, apart from Le Corton Grand Cru, I’ve not had the chance to experience the reds of the Cote de Beaune and this was, therefore, an excellent opportunity to sample the efforts of an increasingly important domaine from the south. In spite of its sizeable holdings in the Cote de Beaune (up to Corton) and its magnificent chateau (highly unusual for Burgundy), many seasoned drinkers are actually not acquainted with Chateau de Meursault, whose history may be traced back all the way to the 11th century. I can assure you the whites of this domaine are consistently excellent,  and just in case you tend to feel a little apprehensive about the reds of Volnay and Pommard, the 2015  from this domaine may just make you change your mind, bearing utter sophistication and class without the usually vegetal burliness from lesser growths.

2007 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Reticent, though its presence on the palate is quite excellent, well balanced with very good integration of zesty lime and citrus, displaying good intensity of flavours.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault Charmes Dessus 1er. Good lift of lemongrass, rye and raw nutmeg on the nose with fine concentration and detail on the palate where white pepper and exotic spices add immeasurably to its racy character, finishing with great persistence. One of my perennial favourites from this estate. A great buy.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault-Perrieres 1er. Very clean on the nose, rather shy. More minerally and stern on the palate, quite full with very good concentration, acidity and balance, developing lively detail and fine intensity over time, oozing with sweet citrus. More complete than the preceding Charmes Dessus but requires more patience. Excellent.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er. Deep clear ruby with a hint of earth and some enamel, quite intense on the palate with lovely concentration and purity of red cherries and red currants. Should develop well over time into a more feminine wine.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Pommard Clos des Epenots 1er. Saturated with ripe wild berries and dark currants, full and fleshy, shrouded with a hint of paraffin amidst understated acidity, retaining lovely balance and elegance in spite of its substantial proportions.

2010 Tiano & Nareno Travesia, a 100% malbec from Mendoza, Argentina, where Ch de Meursault has a hand in its winemaking. Deep purple, rounded and full with an abundance of dark berries, raspberries, enamel and bright rosy characters with further notes of toffee and mocha on the palate where the wine is layered with excellent concentration and intensity, very well integrated but short. Still undifferentiated. Bottled only in magnums.