1982 Pichon Longueville Comtesse Lalande, 1997 Ridge Monte Bello, 2002 Ch Margaux, 1997 Shafer Hillside Stags Leap District & 1997 Silver Oak, 1996 Léoville Las-Cases, 1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet

An evening on 20 July 2026 at the iconic Hokkien restaurant Beng Hiang, now re-located to the Shangri-la Singapore, and notoriously difficult to book! The theme was to compare the iconic New World wines of the Judgement of Paris against Bordeaux of around the same vintage. Never a case of apples versus apples, of course, but these US stalwarts do really age very well, far from drying out, perfect for those who prefer a bit of heft on the palate as opposed to the more feminine elegance of mature clarets.

2018 00 Wines EGW Chardonnay. Somewhat pallid in colour, this Extra Good White is quite effusive in yellow citrus and longans against a backdrop of floral bloom and icy tones. Medium-full. Well-structured with slender chalky definition whilst the delicate fruit and sleek acidity teased with feminine intensity throughout its length. Excellent balance.

1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Evolved crimson. Some earthy reduction is evident from the excellent expanse of dark plummy fruit, extending to a bit of leathery and savoury overtones on the agile medium-weight palate, carrying a bit of sweetish undertow all through its minty length.

1996 Château Duhart-Milon, courtesy of Vic. Still deep garnet, exuding a fine lift of heated pebbles and ferrous minerals. The medium-weight palate is stamped with the classic Pauillac signature of tea leaves and cigar box though the tannins are never too dry, opening up with further detail after some time with a greater density of ferrous elements towards its modest finish, offering a glimpse of its Lafite pedigree. I was spot on.

1997 Silver Oak Napa Valley, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson. This wine is imbued with delicious swathes of raspberries, violets and black cherries, boasting deep velvety textures amid a hint of tobacco snuff and balsamic elements that impart very lovely mouthfeel. Superbly integrated with highly refined tannins, exerting fine verve and tension. Very much like a claret.

1996 Château Léoville Las-Cases, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson, proffering a savoury lift of mature red fruits and plums, tinged with a dash of cinnamon. Beautifully rounded with ultra-refined silky-smooth tannins that impart a soft placid mouthfeel though the fruit is just a tad too backward in favour of powdery ferrous notes. Good balance.

1997 Ridge Monte Bello, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson. Wonderfully perfumed with rosy hues, haw and enamel. Still fullish, imbued with a deep vein of black fruit within sweetish rounded tannins that carried a focused intensity with great verve and swagger, tapering to a lingering minty finish. Superb.

2002 Château Margaux, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep purple. Darkish currants, blueberries and violets dominate with a lovely lift, leading to an integral fleshy palate where the dryish tannins have melted, yielding gritty detail with emerging notes of soy. Most enticing in spite of the vintage.

1997 Shafer Hillside Select Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson, stuffed with a masculine depth of rich plummy fruit crouched within sophisticated velvety tannins with minty overtones that exert a robust presence, carrying plenty of heft with sweetish undertones. Great balance and refinement. May not actually have peaked!

1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Sir Rob. Displaying an evolved crimson, this seminal wine is now fully mature, still highly effusive in tertiary red fruits with undertones of dried tea leaves. Highly supple with a feminine warmth, its tannins having melted ages ago. Drinking beautifully and will still hold.