FICOFI: Nuits-Saint-Georges

Nuits-Saint-Georges is a bit of an ugly duckling within the Cote-de-Nuits. Bereft of grand cru climats and sandwiched between the kings of Vosne-Romanee to the north and the celebrated whites of the Cote-de-Beaune not far off in the south, this appellation is unfairly overlooked. This is all the better for wine lovers, for there are true gems to be found if one knows where to look, evident from a tasting organised by FICOFI on 08 March 2018 at the Four Seasons, Singapore. Far from being nondescript, I found these wines to be highly attractive, imbued with very fine pinot character and purity whilst rooted to its Nuits-Saint-Georges terroir which imparts its own unique imprint. Enjoy.

2015 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges La Perriere 1er. Made from 100% pinot blanc, this unusual white possesses a rich bouquet of ripe bananas, white flowers and intense tropical fruits with traces of morning dew amidst some nutty characters, coming together with explosive impact on the palate with its rich tension amidst superb intensity of fruit, icing and understated crème de la crème, rounded with great elegance and linearity. Outstanding and, naturally, very limited in quantity. I bought some.

2015 Joseph Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges 1er. Lovely hue of ruby, exuding delicious bright rosy characters of ripe cherries, rounded and fleshy with good concentration and presence, displaying great acidity amidst some characteristic earthiness, quite seamless, finishing well.

2011 Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges Proces 1er. Quietly poised on the nose with the glow of deep dark cherries on the approach along with some camphor. Highly poised as well on the medium-full palate, displaying excellent presence and purity with a deep intensity of fruit framed by supple tannins. Excellent.

1995 Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges Ronciere 1er. Poured from magnum. Given its age, this wine is expectedly more evolved, supple and fleshy with advanced characters of cedar, earth, light licorice with a hint of sulphur, showing fine intensity with understated acidity, finishing well.

2012 Domaine Hudelot Noellat Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas de Combes. Don’t let this village fool you. From its very correct pinot tint to its great bouquet of red fruits that foreshadowed its great allure, expanse and purity, this wine defines burgundy by example, highly refined and elegant with everything held in proportion without being showy. Outstanding.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillieres 1er. Slightly opague with notes of dry malt and recessed dark fruits and currants on the nose, though compensated by a lovely palatal lift that exuded excellent freshness with an attractive deftness coming from its sublime acidity. Difficult to source and expensive.

1999 Domaine Prieure-Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Corvees 1er. This monopole is distinctly evolved, displaying good depth of ripe dark fruits and wild berries with gentle medicinal tones framed by sweet tannins, medium-full, slightly dense in its textures. Very fine.