2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue

In what is becoming a serious tradition, Alvin Seah of Domaine Wines would host Jean-Luc Pepin, Commercial Director of Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue, in Singapore every January. This year’s event on 13 Jan 2018 at Jade Palace consisted of a masterclass of the wines of 2009 followed by dinner. Needless to say, it was a great success, the 2009s all drinking very well with plenty of well-proportioned fruit, detail and acidity, powerfully structured as one would expect from this esteemed producer. The tasting (and subsequent dinner) was marred by a few faulty bottles, not enough to spoil the party but worrisome enough considering they all occurred within the same sitting, not to mention the fact that these things are still happening even for recent vintages. It is really time for  major producers to seriously consider alternative closures. Tradition is great, but if it cannot guarantee that these wines will remain impeccably bottled, then it’s time to move on.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny. This village hails from a 1.8 ha plot sitting on Comblanchien limestone, and usually the first wine of this domaine to be bottled. The 2009 exudes a superb intense bouquet of lifted rosy fragrance matched by an attractive earthy pungency, full-bodied, delivering very fine acidity, concentration and depth of fruit with dark spicy tones. Still youthful, yet to develop.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er. I hadn’t realised, but Jean-Luc was quick to point out that, since 1995, the domaine has self-consciously declassified all young vines (arbitrarily stipulated as below 25 years) of Musigny Grand Cru as premier cru. In other words, each time you pop a Chambolle-Musigny 1er, you are actually drinking a young Musigny Grand Cru! Indeed it shows, as this superb example of 2009 exudes lovely deep aromas of rose petals and red fruits from its purplish tint, stuffed with cool ripe fruit infused with graphite minerals that imparted tremendous verve and vigour in spite of its slightly stern demeanour, better in depth, layering and definition over time, displaying subtle intensity with well-integrated acidity as it tapered to a quiet lengthy finish. Excellent but priced at a premium.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses. From soils of 99% limestone, this perennial favourite proffers a deep bouquet of dark cherries, red fruits and raspberries from its deep purple abyss, highly lifted, coiled with dark plums and tangerines of substantial power, depth and freshness, almost masculine in its structured tone though it mellowed considerably after some time, turning more velvety and feminine before receding back into its shell. Unlike the openly flirtatious Les Amoureuses of Robert Groffier, this is a mystic beauty not to be trifled with. Excellent.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. From a sizeable 2.7 ha, this wine proffers a lovely exuberance of warm ripe strawberries, red fruits and preserved cherries with a faint streak of vanillin, excellent in concentration and bold masculine power with superb linearity underscored by a deep minerally streak, structured with pliant tannins. A warm extrovert that everyone loves to hang around with but this chap also knows how to behave, sitting in the glass with quiet intensity when left alone. Absolutely true to its terroir characteristic. Superb.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru. Owning 7.2 ha of this hallowed plot and 100% of neighbouring Le Petit Musigny, Comte de Vogue has always been the point of reference for Musigny. From soils that contain more clay than limestone, this pinnacle of Musigny exudes a superb lift of earthy minerals and smouldering ember marked by some early complexity, medium-bodied, fleshy but subtly layered with glorious dark fruit and sweet tannins amidst highly-understated acidity, impeccably proportioned. Possesses that extra added dimension on top of great finesse and elegance without being showy. Outstanding.