Georges Comte de Vogue: 1999 Musigny, 1999 Bonnes-Mares, 1996 Amoureuses…

These were the wines of Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue tasted at a dinner at Jade Palace, 13 Jan 2018, that took place after a masterclass (of the 2009 wines) presided by Jean-Luc Pépin, Commercial Director of the estate. The line-up was supposed to be 1999 but (as alluded to in my preceding post) as there were quite a few bottles that turned out to be corked, these were replaced by wines from other vintages. The stalwarts of 1999 are developing very well at a glacial pace, truly wines of character and substance though the real revelation that evening was actually the 2010 for burgundy red, truly a cut above 2009.

2009 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Bourgogne Blanc. Vinified in only 15% new oak, max. Gentle notes of dew and white truffles dominate on the nose with an unique trace of steamed kaya bread, whilst the palate is suffused with an oily presence, quite rich, verging on opulence as subtle characters of creme and soft complex minerals emerge over time, carrying tremendous drive to produce an exciting back palate before finishing with great persistence, thoroughly seamless throughout its length. Great stuff !

2004 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Bourgogne Blanc. With the added benefit of bottle age, the 2004, very lovely in colour, displays delicate tones in spite of its rich body of clear citrus, yellow fruit, peaches, melons and tropical fruits, superb in concentration and focus with fine intensity, the recessed chalk and minerals lending an aged feel of orange peel. Excellent.

2010 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny. Having tasted the excellent 2009 just a few hours prior, the 2010 raised the bar further, proffering a superb lift of soft red fruits, plums and earth that led to a medium-bodied fleshy palate with plush textures, oozing with gentle acidity and supple tannins that delivered great verve, detail, elegance and understated power. This may be a village but what a complete wine, outstanding in every way, proving as well the superiority of 2010 over 2009.

1999 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er. Beautiful colour, showing some evolution, exuding a deep generous bouquet with an exuberant lift of complex red fruits and red currants that produced a ripe, opulent fleshy palate of great succulence  amidst traces of tangerines and earthy minerals, topped with great acidity though a tad short. Excellent, nevertheless.

1996 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses. Still deep in colour, from which arose a dense solid core of fleshy ripe dark fruits brimming with quiet intensity, solidly structured and layered but still tight after all these years, eventually softening after some time as it broadened with generous sweet tannins though still undoubtedly masculine, reflecting well its vintage characteristic.

1999 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Ever the extrovert, this wine is highly exuberant, proffering lifted tones of red fruits, dark plums, camphor and tangerines with bold presence as its excellent depth and concentration of fruit took grip,  displaying excellent linearity as well though it still came up a little short at the finish.

1999 Domaine Georges Comte de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru. Superb colour, exuding a deep intense bouquet of ripe dark fruits, blackberries and camphor, richly layered with great concentration of glorious fruit that evoked cedar, cinnamons and some earth, very fleshy and balanced, cloaked in velvety sweet tannins. Slow to evolve, this wine is still remarkably youthful with plenty of power held in check. Outstanding.