Domaine Thibert Père et Fils

These are notes from a selected tasting of the 2015 and 2016 wines of Domaine Thibert Père et Fils organised by Domaine Wines at Gake on 28 Mar 2019. Based in Maconnais which is a good 80-minute drive south from Beaune, this domaine is managed by Christophe Thibert and his sister Sandrine. From humble beginnings in 1967, this domaine has now expanded to 39 hectares centered around Saint-Véran, Pouilly and Macon, all grown and farmed entirely by the domaine. The vines are old (youngest planted in 1969) and Christophe prefers a longer than usual élevage of 20-22 months, using up to 50% new oak. Making wines that combine delicate elegance, detail and layering with excellent sophistication, Domaine Thibert has been touted as being likely to attain cult status in Maconnais much in the same manner as Arnaud Ente in Meursault. What we had that evening was somewhat uneven (the Les Cras stood out best) and not quite representative of the range available (no En Chantone, no Les Longeays, no Champ Rond) but I can assure readers some of the recent back vintages we had tasted at the domaine last October (https://winebyric.com/2018/11/16/ric-visits-domaine-thibert-pere-fils-2/) were truly excellent. Be sure to act fast if you chance upon these wines.

Christophe Thibert

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Saint-Véran Bois De Fee. Lifted floral tones with some nutmeg. Fleeting attack of fine acidity and intensity on the palate, imparting refreshing zest amid dense citrus layered with light earthy minerals, turning more minerally with the raw intensity of wild grass as it finished with good length.

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Les Menetrières. Shy distant floral tones. Softly rounded with gentle intensity of wild flowers amidst mild salinity, snapping into focus as it warmed up from the cold, straightening out with fine linearity and delicate presence but missing inner definition.

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Les Cras. Gentle soft floral tones, highly perfumed with overtones of paraffin. Open with excellent concentration of white flowers and nutmeg, beautifully nuanced in acidity, displaying superb inner detail of subtle minerals, poised with superb balance and presence, finishing with tangy complexity. Excellent.

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches. Marked pallor that belies its generous bouquet of wild grassy elements, morning dew, nutmeg and white pepper. Medium-bodied. Rather delicate with uneven tone, though it finished with attractive intensity.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Saint-Véran Bois De Fee. Open with distant minty tones on the nose, matched with smooth suave acidity amid delicate chalky crème de la crème on the palate, showing good presence and layering. Very fine.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Les Menetrières. Hint of heated gravel on the delicate bouquet. Full and rounded with very fine acidity and good concentration of juicy pomelo, clear and yellow citrus, quite seamless and supple, just a tad short.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Les Cras. Powerful bouquet, exuding a lovely deep earthiness amidst floral tones. Medium-full, displaying excellent integration of fruit and minerals, seamlessly layered with gorgeous detail that glowed with gentle elegance and great refinement. Excellent.