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Jean-Luc Jamet, Robert Sirugue, Kenzo, Marchand-Tawse, Chevigny-Rousseau, Thibault Liger-Belair, Remoissenet, Heresztyn-Mazzini

April 20, 2020

These are short notes from Vinosity, a wine fair organised by several merchants in Singapore on 07 November 2019 at the Ritz-Carlton Millenia. There was, as usual at such events, too much of a good thing but the wines of Kenzo and Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau were revelatory.

2017 Kenzo Asatsuyu. Fresh zesty grassy elements amidst clear tropical fruits, topped with a dash of varnish. Imbued with sharp acidity and intensity, ending in a long spicy finish.

2014 Remoissenet Pere et Fils Saint-Aubin Les Castets 1er. Refreshing freshness, showing good purity and clarity of clear citrus. Gently perfumed on the nose though the palate veers towards saline minerals, layered with good detail.

2015 Remoissenet Pere et Fils Meursault Rouge. Lighter purplish tint. Exudes a lovely gentle rosy fragrance, showing good concentration and presence with streaks of haw, revealing good detail and purity. Most unusual from Meursault but highly refreshing.

2015 Remoissenet Pere et Fils Beaune-Teurons 1er. Darker shades of raspberries and ripe wild berries. Lively presence and acidity. Well-layered but a bit short.

2014 Remoissenet Pere et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot 1er. Darker shade of pinot. Structured with fine acidity and concentration of dark cherries and plums, exuding a certain minerally brightness. A little short.

2014 Remoissenet Pere et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru. More heavily tinted, proffering a bright attractive bouquet of ripe cherries and raspberries. Highly supple with a rounded fleshiness, harmoniously structured with very well-integrated acidity. Quite excellent.

2017 Domaine Robert Sirugue Vosne-Romanée. Good colour. Effusive rosy floral fragrance. Softly structured with predominant red fruits amid traces of capsicum and earth. Good presence and finish.

2017 Domaine Robert Sirugue Vosne-Romanée Vieilles-Vignes. Good colour. Deeper on the nose. More serious in demeanour, displaying very fine presence of ripe raspberries with sleek acidity, seamlessly lined with rounded tannins. Very good.

2017 Domaine Robert Sirugue Chambolle-Musigny Les Mombies. Good colour. Slightly reserved on the nose though the palate is imbued with vibrant acidity, rather fleshy with a certain delicate deftness and seamless transparency. Quiet finish.

2017 Jean-Luc Jamet Côtes-du-Rhône Couzou. Comprises 60% marsanne, 20% roussanne and 20% viognier. Pale. Dense minerally nose. Rather bright and full on the palate with characters of warm gravel, very well-layered. Great concentration of fruit with  understated acidity, displaying keen focus and intensity, finishing with good clarity. Excellent.

20191107_172808.jpg2017 Jean-Luc Jamet Côte-Rôtie L’Enclave. Deep impenetrable purple. Exudes a powerful earthy pungency, imbued with warm ripe fruit with dash of earth and vegetable characters on the medium-full palate. A little too straightforward.

2016 Domaine Marchand-Tawse Bourgogne Blanc. Just a hint of cool faint icing and vanillin on the nose, essentially closed, though white floral tones are distinctly discernible on the medium-full palate, imbued with fine acidity and understated minerals.

2017 Domaine Marchand-Tawse Vire-Cleese. From the Maconnais, this wine exudes white fruits, grassy elements and clear minerals topped with inviting cool icing and vanillin, displaying good concentration and balance. Certainly has the potential to develop further complexity.

2016 Domaine Marchand-Tawse Morey-Saint-Denis Les Faconnieres 1er. Good colour. Delicate perfumed ripeness on the nose though somewhat reticent. Medium-full, layered with ripe red fruits, cherries and plums with warm velvety tones. Very well integrated with understated minerals. Quiet finish.

2016 Domaine Marchand-Tawse Echezeaux Grand Cru. Good colour. A shade heavier in pinot tint, proffering quite an expressive bouquet of perfumed red fruits and cherries with a forward presence, well replicated with equal measure on the palate with excellent verve, concentration and depth. Very well balanced. Structured with sweet softly rounded tannins, finishing well.

2018 Maison Chapuis-Freres Burguignons. Good colour. Quite effusive in ripe raspberries and mulberries, displaying sharp definition with fine acidity. Spicy finish.

2017 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Bourgogne. Good colour. Predominant red fruits with a slightly darkish tone. Light-medium, showing good integration but rather straightforward.

2017 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village. Planted in 1960. Quite an effusive rosy floral fragrance. Medium-bodied and fleshy, but could do with more presence. The Clos Village of Domaine Philippe Livera is much more successful.

2017 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1er. Good colour. Reserved. Medium-bodied. Rather fleshy and delicate, poised with highly refined gentle acidity. Distinctly feminine but far too shy, almost to the point of being nondescript.

2017 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champonnets 1er. Good extraction, resulting in a slightly heavier tone of red fruits and dark cherries. Fleshy and rounded with good abundance of fruit. Open with good presence and inner detail, gently structured with fine acidity. Good potential.

2015 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrieres 1er. Purplish tint. Gentle lift of warm ripe fruits and raspberries. Opened up with good concentration and tension, revealing good structure and sophistication.

2015 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Morey-Saint-Denis. Darker tint. Full fleshy palate of ripe red fruits, exuding great warmth and energy with very good depth and acidity though the finish is surprisingly abrupt.

2014 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Corton Les Renardes Grand Cru. Magnum. Good colour. Quite effusive in ripe red fruits and cherries. Medium-bodied. Very correct in its superb acidity amid characters of haw flakes and earthy traces that impart excellent presence and warmth. Good finish. Excellent.

2016 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er. Good colour. Rather effusive in red fruits, slightly plummy in tone. Very good concentration and intensity of fruit, structured with open vibrant acidity. Perhaps a tad more extracted than usual.

2014 Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau Echezeaux Grand Cru. Good colour. Effusive warmth of ripe red fruits and raspberries, displaying good balance between concentration and acidity on a bed of velvety tannins.

2015 Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau Nuits-Saint-Georges. Good colour. Good deal of earthiness on the nose. Beautifully rounded, displaying seamless presence with a dash of exotic spiciness as it shone with refined acidity and intensity.

2014 Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes. Classic pinot tint. Lovely fragrance, imbued with succulent warm ripe fruit. Structured with excellent balance and inner detail. Highly successful.

2017 Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau Morey-Saint-Denis Les Combottes 1er. Clear purple, exuding a lovely glow of warm red fruits and raspberries that traverse the palate with great refinement. Very seamlessly integrated and structured, superbly balanced with very fine presence.

2017 Domaine Chevigny-Rousseau Vosne-Romanée Champs des Perdrix. Clear purple. Lovely bloom of rose petals and ripe raspberries on the nose, very correct in feel with just a trace of oaky glow. Fleshy and open with an easy charm, perhaps even a little too placid and understated.

2016 Kenzo Rindo. Deep purple. Effusive glow of dark currants, dark cherries and raspberries. Excellent in concentration, drawing tight tension across the palate with a deep velvety presence, displaying refined elegance and understated tannins with a deeper streak of tea leaves and black fruits that confer a lovely open intensity, superbly balanced with sublime acidity. Outstanding.

2017 Bass Phillip Crown Prince. Good colour. Generous aromas of sweet dark plums and currants with a spicy splash. Very good concentration, depth and acidity. Distinctly masculine. Well integrated though a little short.

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