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Feb 2022: 2008 Taittinger Brut Millésimé, 2017 Bernard Moreau Chass-Mont Cardeuse, 2014 PYCM Chassagne-Montrachet Cailleret, 2014 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée, 2015 Georges Lignier Chambolle-Musigny, 2006 Krug, Champagne L’ascendant

February 28, 2022

2012 Champagne Roger Coulon Blanc de Noirs Brut Millésimé. Popped and poured, 01 Feb 2022. Great density of pomelo, bitter lemon and clear citrus imbued with an abundance of ferrous elements that cut through the palate with crisp dry intensity, leading to a stern austere finish. Hugely primal.

2017 Meerlust Rubicon. Popped and poured over brunch at Dorothy’s place, 02 Feb 2022. Deep purple. Initial notes of briar, bramble and dark forest characters. Fleshed out with greater suppleness and warmth and with more of deep dark plummy fruit, raspberries and currants to the fore, structured with refined acidity and precision.

2017 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé. Aired in bottle for more than two hours prior, 3-4 Feb 2022. Light greenish hue, exuding aromas of fig, pears and green fruits that lead to a generous expanse of high-toned citrus, offering good inner detail with tingling acidity that impart great verve and liveliness.

2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet La Cardeuse 1er. Popped and poured at Jade Palace, 07 Feb 2022. This monopole red opens with a beguiling bouquet of rose petals and raspberries in soft focus, distinctly feminine, matching the wonderful freshness of fruit on the medium-weight palate laced with traces of ember, gaining further intensity with a more dominant salinity as it fleshed out with a ripe rounded warmth, unfurling its true pinot character. Beautifully balanced. Excellent.

2008 Champagne Taittinger Brut Millésimé, courtesy of Dr WKW. Popped and poured from the list of One Ninety Bar, Four Seasons Singapore, 09 Feb 2022. Effusive in fig, faint green fruits and honeysuckle, wafting across amid overtones of fresh cool icing. Medium-full, tinged with a distinct salinity at first before blossoming with open clarity, displaying inner detail of peaches and tropical fruits with lovely focus and intensity. Excellent.

2009 Château Malartic-Lagravière. Aired in bottle for more than three hours prior, 13 Feb 2022. Impenetrable deep purple, exuding a nose of black cherries, dark currants and brilliant graphite that is well-replicated on the medium-full palate, structured with supple tannins that impart velvety intensity with enough of the classic earthiness of Pessac-Leognan. Very refined. Still youthful. Excellent effort.

2006 Champagne Krug Brut, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 16 Feb 2022. Light golden. Very lovely deep burnished tone on the nose amid yeasty undertones with a good lift of cool notes, leading to a palate of complex citrus and pomelo set against a glazed chalkiness, showing signs of early maturity with a lovely dry intensity that seemed destined for a austere finish, to be replaced by delicious sweet tropical fruit. Excellent.

2014 Domaine Pierre Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Cailleret 1er, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 16 Feb 2022. Pale, exuding buttery characters and brioche amid white tones. Medium-full, imbued with a rich oily density that imparted excellent definition and precision with a rounded lovely presence, finishing with great length and supple intensity. Superb.

2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 16 Feb 2022. Classic pinot tint with a lovely bouquet of fresh raspberries and cherries tinged with ember and a hint of earth. Very correct in character, exerting an understated intensity amid subtle supple tannins with a distinct feminine elegance. Drinking beautifully.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé En Chantone, aired for an hour in advance at San Shu Gong, 16 Feb 2022. Pale. Nose of fresh morning dew, matched with a rounded palate of clear citrus laced with a slight salinity. Layered with cool tones, showing some early complexity as it fleshed out with excellent rounded depth.

2005 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Russ at San Shu Gong, 16 Feb 2022. Deep ruby. Intoxicating nose of dark tones, black fruits and bramble with a lovely warm ripeness, displaying excellent detail of charred wood and ash with superb supple intensity within a frame of sweet velvety tannins where a dash of vanillin is still discernible. Excellent.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, at 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 17 Feb 2022. Poured from magnum. Generous in lime and pomelo, displaying superb lift and freshness with cool presence as it traversed the palate with smooth intensity. Not too dry.

2020 Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills M3 Chardonnay, at 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 17 Feb 2022. Faint diesel, olives and earthy minerals dominate with pliant suppleness, displaying lovely glowing intensity with superb detail and precision. A busy wine with plenty of buzz but it is beautifully proportioned and correct in every way. Perhaps even better than the 2019. Excellent.

2020 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir, at 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 17 Feb 2022. Deep ruby. Delicious lift of ripe cherries and red fruits. Structured with pliant supple tannins amid dryish textures, glowing with excellent purity, length and intensity. More rounded and introspective over time.

2019 Stargazer Derwent Valley Chardonnay, at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Very pale, but deeply floral on the nose with faint traces of lychee. Exerts lovely smooth intensity with a distinct saline acidity on the palate, underscored by a deep vein fruit with characters of nutmeg and summer hay. Good finish. From Tasmania.

Champagne L’ascendant, at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Darkish shades. Open exotic nose of fresh berries with a reductive dryness. Very controlled, displaying an understated intensity of pineapples amidst an oily density laced with lovely smooth acidity, proffering excellent clarity and persistent length. Really good. From Grand Cru grapes of Verzy.

2007 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Deep garnet. Full-bodied. Well-extracted with a warm ripeness, exerting tensile presence with good integration and length. Still youthful.

2008 Black Puma Shiraz at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Impenetrable red. Prunes, black currants and ripe dark berries dominate. Well-extracted with a rounded fullness, displaying a velvety warmth amid overtones of mocha and chocolate within a frame of dryish supple tannins, finishing with distinct alcoholic heat. This is controlled hedonism pushed to the limit.

2008 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Very dark, exuding cool ripe berries with remarkable restraint in spite of its obvious fullness. Rich and smoothly contoured, structured with svelte sophisticated tannins that impart sweet juicy succulence, displaying lovely balance and proportion. Excellent.

2006 Penfolds RWT at Burnt Ends, 18 Feb 2022. Very dark. Medium-bodied. Open with a dark restrained warmth, showing some early development amid a certain earthiness with undertones of diesel. Still far from ready.

2015 Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Chambolle-Musigny. Popped and poured at Corner Grill, 22 Feb 2022. Generous bouquet of raspberries and dark cherries with a dash of earthy salinity, displaying a soft ample presence with lovely ripeness and rounded contours. Appropriately darkish for Chambolle, delivering good depth as it finished with sweet understated intensity. Quite excellent.

2009 Château La Tour de Mons. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 27 Feb 2022. Rather thin at first with a pronounced acidity, fleshing out eventually with deeper tones of dark currants and raspberries that produce a certain graphite sparkle with a little more of the Margaux fragrance.


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