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July 2022: 2017 Comte Lafon Meursault, 2002 Margaux, 2018 Jordan Chardonnay, 1996 Robert Ampeau Meursault-Perrières, 2005 Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle

August 8, 2022

2006 Mount Mary Quintet. Aired for 90 minutes in advance before dinner at Jade Palace, 02 July 2022. Deep currants and dark plums on the nose with a sense of warm pebbles. Rather full with structured intensity, ample in darkish characters intoned with a bright minerally glare that later gave way to emerging notes of mocha and licorice. More open after two hours as it settled with sweet rounded tannins though it still came across as rather dense and heavy, even for cabernet.

2018 Jordan Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 03 July 2022. Deeply coloured. Exudes fresh morning notes while green fruits dominate on the palate, underpinned by prominent ferrous and minerally elements that impart an austere tinge. Fleshed out eventually with an emerging citrus depth, displaying rounded intensity with good clarity and crisp articulation. Drinking well. Another glass, again at 67 Pall Mall on 16 July 2022, displayed fine clarity amid a tangy intensity with distant notes of chalk and crème de la crème. Worth seeking out.

2011 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, a steal at SGD89 from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 03 July 2022. Crimson brown, exuding charred savoury characters, ember and smoked bacon with more of haw and red fruits later. Softened after some time with good inner detail and refined tannins, displaying an open presence with a tinge of menthol at its glowing finish.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Loche En Chantone, aired in advance for 90 minutes prior to dinner at home, 04 July 2022. Displaying a fairly deep greenish hue, this wine is generously endowed with high-toned characters of tropical fruits, melons and fig underpinned by pomelo and subtle ferrous elements that added a bit of austere depth, imparting an intense tingling mouthfeel with its exciting acidity. Still youthful but lovely to drink now.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches. Popped and poured at Wah Lok, 10 July 2022. Exuberant bouquet of fig and peaches with a glorious floral fragrance that exude a rich oily density on the palate, displaying great clarity and purity with an unassuming elegance, developing understated intensity amid recessed chalky white tones. Drinking well.

2005 Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, aired for two hours in bottle ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 11 July 2022. Deep dark bouquet of black currants, wild berries, spice and licorice. Medium-full with a textured mouthfeel, exuding a cool minty glow. Dryish at first, then fleshing out with rounded presence as it gelled very well with seamless velvety tannins that oozed a trace of sweetness, evolving with fine clarity and understated structure. Very expertly crafted without any hint of its 14.5% abv.

2019 Domaine Jean Chartron Saint-Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents de Chien 1er, courtesy of Russ at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Explosive bouquet of morning dew, floral fragrance, pears and fig. Even more effusive after some time with further notes of honeysuckle and dense tropical fruits. Lovely tense fullness with exciting mouthfeel, imbued with excellent acidity and precision with a distinct ferrous edge, imparting bit of stern demeanour.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Restrained rounded floral fragrance. Medium-full. Zesty with a teasing soft intensity, showing good clarity with elegant depth and precision, fanning out with quiet glow as it morphed into a seamless entity with further detail amid overtones of nutmeg.

2011 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Lovely deep ruby. Exudes a gentle restrained rosy fragrance matched by very fine juicy succulence on the medium-bodied palate, basking in a long detailed glowing finish with feminine intensity. Drinking well but still remarkably youthful.

20220713_215420.jpg1995 Les Forts de Latour, courtesy of Melvin at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Good colour. Lovely sense of velvety depth on the nose amid deep rosy hues, dark plums and some pungent earthiness. Shows excellent depth and freshness with open svelte intensity, displaying understated secondary characters underscored with savoury swagger. Even better than a previous tasting in 2018. At its best.

2009 Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er, courtesy of WCY at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Rich oily density, exuding a sense of opulence in its fabulous bouquet of fragrant floral bloom, yellow citrus, vanillin and white peaches. Medium-full, displaying a layered density and intensity that appeared even more reductive over time with powdery textures that seemed very Meursault-like before settling down with the classic chalky glow of a Puligny-Montrachet.

2015 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Deep pinot tint with a faintly delicious nose of ripe dark cherries. Medium-full. Highly supple with very fine acidity, imparting lovely freshness and verve even before it gelled together with superb clarity and definition, subtly structured. Excellent.

2004 Domaine Jacques-Frèdéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Deep pinot tint with a tinge of brown, showing early secondary cedary characters. Medium-full with supple intensity and acidity though its darkish fruit is somewhat reluctant, laced with a hint of tangerines. Distinctly more minerally at first with a little shiny glare, settling down only after three hours with better integration and balance, finishing with soothing sweet tannins.

2011 Hospices de Beaune Corton Grand Cru vinified by Faiveley for Sir Bob. Aired in bottle for almost three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Good colour. Shy on the nose though the medium-bodied palate is imbued with ample red fruits, subtly shaded with a refined relaxed presence. Fleshed out with delicious tones. Surprising bright and cheerful for Corton.

2014 Weingut Markus Molitor Pinot Noir Brauneberger Klostergarten**, courtesy of Alvin at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Classic pinot tint, showing restrained warmth with a distant shy fragrance of rose petals and cherries. Very correct in character, highly even and smoothly delineated on the placid medium-bodied palate. Foxed us all into believing it to be a true burgundy.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet, aired for two hours prior to dinner at Otto Ristorante, 15 July 2022. Still showing a deep garnet red with an effusive glow of mature claret, boasting deep dark plums tinged with a dried herbal vegetal hint. Imbued with darkish characters on the medium-full, fleshing out with a lovely rounded presence and fresh acidity with lovely detail. Highly integral. At its best.

2018 Domaine Olivier Leflaive Chablis Le Deux Rives by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 16 July 2022. Pale greenish. Lovely nose of tangerines, lemon peel and peaches that exert a distinct flinty presence. Medium-full. Well integrated and balanced with understated refined acidity, displaying excellent delineation and length as it gained a slight intensity of pineapples and tropical fruits. A steal.

2014 Tyler Winery Zotovich Family Vineyard Chardonnay by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 16 July 2022. Greenish hue with a restrained floral warmth while lemon peels dominate with a subdued delicate presence, coating the light-medium palate with a high-toned fleeting acidity that teased with shiny minerally elements bringing up the rear. Resembles a Pouilly-Fuissé. Drinking well.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er. Popped and poured at home, 17 July 2022. Pale greenish hue. Morning dew and distant icing on the nose. The palate is expectedly full and intense, imbued with fresh clear fruits and tangy pomelo that lent a tinge of austerity against the broad sweep of bright citrus.

Chandon Brut NV, at Tanah Merah Country Club, Singapore, 20 July 2022. Fig, distant green fruits, pomelo and icing, rather promising on the nose though the palate is disappointingly straightforward with a dryish intensity.

2018 Stag’s Leap Karia Chardonnay. Aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 23 July 2022. Pale golden hue. Imbued with a slick oily density that exudes delicious white fruits with a floral lift, topped with gentle notes of crème. Developed further layering and overtones of nutmeg, displaying refined acidity and understated intensity with unassuming demeanour.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Meursault-Perrières 1er. Aired for two hours in advance prior to dinner at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Luminous, proffering abundant fig and clear citrus on the nose with an orangey tone. Full-bodied with excellent density. Still imbued with lovely freshness and sleek acidity amid mild ferrous elements, showing plenty of zest with a lithe high-toned acidity.

Champagne Liébart-Régnier Horti Extra Brut, courtesy of LF at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. A blend that includes less usual varieties of petit arbane, pinot blanc and petit meslier. Pale. Most alluring bouquet of perfumed floral fragrance amid recessed yeasty tones. Full high-toned palate of highly refined bubbles with a keen lift, sporting a most unusual darkish vein. Very well integrated with a dash of white flint.

2002 Château Margaux, courtesy of Sir Bob at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Deep purple. Rather shy, just hinting at warm gravel. The fleshy open palate is somewhat reductive with a marked presence of capsicum and dark fruits that exert mild supple intensity, a little dryish but agile, developing faint hues of haw. Drinking well but it lacks charm and true complexity.

2002 Château L’Evangile, courtesy of Sir Bob at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Deep purple. Dark fruits and capsicum dominate with soft red fruits in equal measure, exuding gentle warmth. Seamlessly integrated with lithe agility and subtle intensity.

2017 Château de Meursault Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Luminous. Nose of restrained citrus and white fruits. Medium-bodied. Gently weighted with lovely balance and subtle intensity, finishing with fine linearity.

2017 Domaine Comte Lafon Meursault, courtesy of Kieron at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Pale. Shy, laced with a slight saline presence. The medium-bodied palate is wonderfully layered with plenty of dimension, proffering excellent freshness and clarity with elegant intensity. Very correct in every way.

2018 Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 July 2022. Fairly deep greenish hue, promising green apples, kiwi and fig followed by an emerging floral fragrance Medium-bodied. Rounded and quite ample, layered with a deeper vein of preserved tropical fruit. Good balance, becoming a little more minerally over time. Lingering finish.

2018 Domaine Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille 1er, aired for an hour ahead of dinner at Daniu Teochew Restaurant, 29 July 2022. Luminous. Shy. Medium-full, displaying an even firm chalky presence amid the fragrance of white floral bloom. Evolved much later with dense white tones and fine inner detail. Excellent actually, but under-rated. Needs plenty of time for proper expression.

2005 Château Chasse-Spleen, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 30 July 2022. Deep crimson. Effusive glow of mature red plums, dark fruits and currants, coating the palate with soft chewy tannins that exert supple intensity, revealing fine inner detail with lovely acidity. Went on to develop early tertiary characters of roast, mahogany and cedar gently laced with licorice. Good finish. Highly satisfying.

2019 Domaine de Montille Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er, aired for an hour ahead of dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 31 July 2022. Lightly coloured. Belies a dense effusive bouquet of glorious ripe yellow citrus, tropical melons and pineapples. Richly imbued with superb supple intensity though still fairly tight, finishing with good length. Fabulous potential.

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