1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc Millenaires, 2011 Dujac Vosne-Romanée Beaux Monts, 2011 Montille Aux Malconsorts Christiane, 2002 Robert Arnoux Vosne-Rom Chaumes, 2007 Louis Jadot Montrachet

A casual but superb evening hosted by Barrie at his residence, 21 April 2023, on a theme of Vosne-Romanée and Puligny-Montrachet. The Chassagne was unexpected but who would ever refuse a Ramonet? Thanks Barrie!

1995 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires, courtesy of Barrie. Light dull golden. Dense concentration of yeast and minerally elements on the nose, exuding an attractive austerity. Wonderfully complex and beguiling, still amazingly fresh, yielding delicate detail graced with overtones of cinnamon and burnt metal underpinned by a trace of sweetness. Superb.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Clear golden lustre, opening with a certain restraint amid distant chalk and white tones. Still coiled with fairly tight intensity that teased with fleeting depth on the medium palate. Smoothly delineated with excellent refinement and linearity, developing a laidback charm with overtones of paraffin.

2007 Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie. Clear golden. Effusive in mature white tones within a sheen of paraffin, tinged with the smoke of burnt matchstick, its relative sternness contrasting against a plump fleshy rounded fullness, very subtly layered with delicate white tones that yield fine detail with further caramelised nutty tones. Not quite as ethereal as the Montrachet of Bouchard and Drouhin though impeccably balanced, nevertheless, with more than a hint of aristocratic pedigree. Caught at its peak.

2000 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er, courtesy of Brandon. Golden hue. Quite effusive and lively with a clean elusive presence of lime and clear citrus. Still imbued with excellent freshness with a medium presence of warm ripe fruit, fleshing out with white fruits though the spectrum is rather narrow and lean. Moderate finish. Holding up well.

1994 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie. Dull pinot tint with some obvious evolution, proffering red fruits and haw. Medium-bodied. Good presence of mature fruit supported by a deeper darker vein, graced by fine acidity with a dash of earthiness wrapped in rounded tannins, yielding fine detail. Good balance but somewhat short.

2011 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint with a nose of red fruits and raspberries, leading to a luxurious velvety bed of delicious fruit underscored by clean crisp acidity that imparted supple refinement. Very well proportioned and balanced. A classical Dujac. Lovely.

2011 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Christiane 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint. Delicious lift of red and dark berries, extending to the medium palate with sweet supple tannins. Very seamlessly structured and balanced with good definition and well-integrated acidity, though not as luxuriant or voluptuous as one may imagine this special plot to be, actually lying within La Tâche itself. Moderate finish.

2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er, courtesy of Barrie. Deep garnet. There is a certain darkish restraint on the nose with some notes of briar, though surprisingly energetic with youthful exuberance on the full palate, very cleanly delineated, boasting supple acidity on a bed of velvet, balsam and minerally elements, distinctly stemmy at its moderate finish. I’m not even sure this has reached full maturity for this is truly burgundy done in the old way, requiring years of patience.