Troplong Mondot 2015 2014 2011 2008 2007

The Jürade de Saint-Émilon du Singapour kicked off 2024 with a vertical of Château Troplong Mondot at Otto Ristorante on 17 January. Founded in 1745, this Premier Grand Cru Classé B truly came into its own under the stewardship of Christine Valette from 1980 till her last vintage of 2013. Her efforts of 1989 and 1990 are legendary, while memories of a 1988 tasted at Eleven Madison Park are still fresh. Key to Troplong Mondot’s success lies in its terroir, sited on a gentle mound 110 metres above sea-level where there is a substantial deposit of clay covering the usual limestone. This elevation facilitates even drainage during wet months while the clay helps to retain moisture during the hot months, preventing heat stress. The harder clay also forces the roots of the vines to dig deeper, resulting in greater power and complexity to the wine. Quality and sophistication has taken on a new dimension ever since Aymeric de Gironde (moving from Cos D’Estournel) took over as CEO and winemaker in 2017. I wouldn’t be surprised if Troplong Mondot makes the cut to Premier Grand Cru Classé A at the next classification.

Champagne Ruinart Brut NV. Pale. Cool reductive pungency. Structured with chunky detail amid a moderate intensity of pears and white fruits. Drinking well.

2019 Virginie de Valandraud Blanc, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. Soft gentle tones of tropical fruits with a peculiar hint of durians. Rounded with refined clarity, turning a little velvety over time with emerging notes of passion fruit. Distinctly feminine.

2015 Château Troplong Mondot. Very deep purple. Restrained bouquet of very dark inky fruit and currants, perhaps even a little pruny, delivering an appropriately ripe and masculine palate structured with unobtrusive tannins, lighting up with a gentle glowing sweetness as it took on a further note of soy. Very generously proportioned and smoothly delineated. Very well balanced, showing lovely acidity. Just needs time in bottle to come together. Plenty of promise.

2014 Château Troplong Mondot. Very deep garnet. Resolutely shut though the medium-full palate is imbued with cool ripe darkish fruit tinged with a trace of sweetness, underpinned by distinct ferrous elements that confer a generally lean, austere character. Less dense and imposing than the 2015. Ready to drink soon.

2011 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Mel. Deep purple garnet. This wine opens with a cool elegant restraint, matching the ample layers of glorious fruit dressed in silky-smooth sophisticated tannins. Wonderfully vibrant but beautifully balanced, displaying perfect phenolic ripeness. Superb, in spite of the under-rated vintage.

2008 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Sok Cheng. Deep garnet with a bare rim of crimson, proffering a bit of warm ripeness with traces of sweet vanillin. Very sleek medium presence, boasting a focused plush intensity from the rich layers of delicious black fruits and currants dressed in sophisticated velvety tannins, finishing with superb length. Thoroughly superb.

2007 Château Troplong Mondot, courtesy of Jess. Opaque dull purple. Open with a cool velvety ripeness, darkish in tone with overtones of licorice and menthol. Slightly rustic, not helped by a dogged tinge of brett. Probably an isolated bottle problem. Will reserve judgement.

2009 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, courtesy of Bowei. Deep crimson, showing a hint of early evolution with a slightly vegetal nose of rhubarb and wild berries. The medium palate is fairly dense in darkish crushed fruit and vibrant acidity that impart supple intensity with a medicinal trace, adding to its rustic feel. Not quite ready.