2009 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes G.C., 2010 Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares G.C., 2002 Emannuel Rouget Échezeaux G.C., 2020 Domaine Lambrays Puligny Folatières, 2021 Cullen Kevin John Fruit Day Chard, 2021 Ostia Tempore Honoris Pinot Noir, 2018 Rose & Arrow Hopewell Hills Pinot, 1993 Calera Jensen Mount Harlan Pinot, 1985 Chalone “Estate” Pinot, 2019 00 EGW

The usual suspects and friends met on a theme of Old and New World pinot noir and chardonnay at Summer Pavillion on 25 February 2024. All wines were blinded. While the yardstick still remains with the burgundies, the New World pinots (which happened to be all American in our case) measured up very well, their contemporary style being highly sophisticated with great refinement. Many thanks, everyone!

2017 Domaine Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet. Pale. Delicate lift of peaches, pears and light citrus with fresh floral scents amid cool glacial tones. Subtly layered with fine clarity, turning more reductive over time with a distinct salinity as it teased with fleeting intensity, eventually developing a fine density of orchard fruit that finished with a harmonious glow of nutmeg.

2007 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre, courtesy of Sir Bob. Luminous gold. Resolutely shut at first, gradually developing an emerging dense oiliness on the nose whilst the stern medium palate of ferrous minerals gave way to a concentrated presence of intense white fruits still laced with a dash of vanillin, fleshing out with rounded lean definition. Lifted finish.

2021 Cullen Wines Kevin John Fruit Day Chardonnay, courtesy of Alvin. Dull golden. Shut initially, showing just a hint of recessed chalk before unfurling a dense bouquet of intricate floral detail that contrasted beautifully against a racy palate of rounded white chromatic tones, taut with fine definition and precision. The unusual hint of diesel at its lengthy finish gave away its New World origin, but it was still very difficult to place. Not the usual creamy buttery style. Excellent!

2020 Domaine des Lambrays Puligny-Montrachet Folatières 1er, courtesy of Vic. Pale. Shut on the nose though the medium-weight palate boasts excellent density of fruit and ferrous elements, taut with delicate intensity along with a bit of minerally glare, proffering only a glimpse of inner citrus and nutmeg beneath the sheen of white tones. Huge potential here.

2019 00 Wines EGW Willamette Chardonnay, courtesy of Kieron. Pale golden. Nose of fresh floral scents, the fruit a little reluctant initially. Generously proportioned with a high-toned tensile presence, becoming more harmonious over time, gelling together with excellent refinement.

1985 Chalone Vineyard “Estate Grown” Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Opaque purplish-crimson hues, imbued with the distilled presence of red fruits tinged with a distinct salinity that exude clean minty overtones. Still holding up well.

1993 Calera Jensen Mount Harlan Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Evolved pinot tint, boasting a mature complex of red fruits, apricot and tangerines amid racy overtones of saline, smoke and gum. Concentrated yet open with tremendous verve and refinement from the sweetish tannins, each sip bringing on even greater intensity and sweetness. Very well balanced and proportioned in spite of its size. Superb.

2021 Ostia Tempore Honoris Pinot Noir, courtesy of Anthony. Deep purplish core, proffering a forward balance of fresh dark berries of moderate intensity. Very cleanly structured with refined purity and lean definition, finishing with, perhaps, just a hint of match-stick smokiness. An effort by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Willamette Valley, Oregon.

2018 Rose & Arrow Hopewell Hills. Deep purple. Lifted bouquet of fresh wild berries and black cherries. Very clean in feel and delineation. Exudes quiet sophistication with smoothly contoured subtle tannins that yield good definition with a distilled dry intensity underscored by a deep dark vein of fruit, finishing well. Delicious. Not surprising that everyone thought it was burgundy as this estate began as a joint collaboration between the late Mark Tarlov and Comte Liger-Belair, using barrels from Vosne-Romanée.

2008 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er, courtesy of Vic. Fairly deep core of crimson, exuding early secondary characters with some earthiness. Medium weight, the darkish plummy fruit well developed with overtones of bramble and undergrowth, imparting a bit of gruffness that thinned out a little towards the finish.

2010 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. Classic pinot tint. This wine opens with an attractive bouquet of fresh cherries and red fruits tinged with a dash of sweetness, exuding a clean relaxed charm on the medium palate, underpinned by subdued acidity and structured with understated tannins. A demure Bonnes-Mares rather than the usual exuberance.

2002 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Good colour. Delicious expanse of ripe wild berries and cherries that impart excellent concentrated presence, quite seamlessly integrated with a rasping dry intensity from its chiseled definition and precision. Modest finish.

2009 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Good colour. Benefitting from the impeccable pedigree of Domaine Roumier, Christophe’s own effort is imbued with a delicious supple intensity of fresh berries and mandarins that display lean definition with lovely purity and structured precision. Superb.