Ric's Wine Journal

A handful of alumni from Changi met up with the Professor, still hale and hearty, for a superb evening at Jade Palace on 17 August 2023 where we all dug deep on a main theme of 1996 (for the Left Bank) that included a pairing of Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. All wines were blinded except for the champagne and one bottle of Sociando-Mallet. Many thanks to all for your kind generosity.

2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of GPP. Very good presence of pears, peaches and orchard fruit that convey exciting verve with a chiseled intensity, exuding brilliant chromatic tones with cool refreshing zest. Excellent.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Light luminosity. Shy at first, opening with distant orangey tones that indicate substantial age. Rather placid with a very even linearity before Ampeau’s signature acidic tone became evident along with overtones of olives, pomelo and coconut. Still amazingly fresh and energetic.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet, through sheer coincidence an identical pair courtesy of Vic and yours truly. The first bottle, which had been through negociant Henri Duboscq, displayed secondary characters of cedar and capsicum amid tobacco shavings and dark currants on a dryish medium-full palate, very fresh and elegant with well-integrated acidity, gently layered with good typicity. The second bottle, from an OWC sourced from Bordeaux Index London and tasted blind, was highly consistent but even more rounded and full with a fleshy succulence, on par with a classified growth. Truly, Sociando-Mallet from the old days is made to last.

1996 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, courtesy of WCY. Deep crimson. Compared with Haut-Brion of the same vintage (drunk side-by-side), the La Mission shows a remarkable restrained intensity of darkish tones topped with a dash red capsicum, seamlessly structured with tightly knit tannins that grip the full palate with svelte intensity, imparting great swagger and elegance in equal measure.

1996 Château Haut-Brion, courtesy of WCY. Deep crimson. This wine appeared a little disjointed at first before snapping into place with fine transparency, revealing tertiary characters of cinnamon, capsicum and star anise from its gentle depth, structured with relaxed elegant tannins that display that greater bit of refinement compared with the La Mission Haut-Brion, eventually fleshing out with growing intensity.

1998 Château Ausone. Deep garnet. Darkly delicious, open with an inviting warmth of glorious black fruits and currants, wonderfully ripe, painting the palate with velvety succulence and early tertiary characters that impart superb mouthfeel and vigour. At its prime.

1996 Château Margaux, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson. Warm glow of mature ripe fruit well into its tertiary development. Faintly delicious on the nose but the palate is wonderfully fresh, buzzing with great vibrancy and superb intensity, framed by open delicate tannins that add immeasurably to its feminine elegance. Took on delicious intensity in the glass. At its best, I feel.

1996 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Vic. Deep garnet. Rather placid on the nose though there is an unquestionably full presence of black fruits, very generously layered with cool ripeness and controlled intensity, shot through with a certain racy streak that culminated in a bit of brambly forest characters. Delicious. I was spot on.

A lovely dinner at Shang Palace, Singapore, on 31 July 2023 to dust off the Monday blues. The theme is evident with the 1990 Lynch-Bages showing best, proving once again that you need to wait at least 25-30 years before popping your top clarets. Many thanks!

2017 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet, courtesy of Kieron. Tasted blind. Pale golden. Opens with a discernible trace of glycerin on the nose amid white tones, proffering a restrained floral lift. A little backward initially, though it did eventually flesh out with a gentle rounded presence of clear fruit touched with nutmeg and saline minerals, very well integrated with excellent precision and definition, the salinity taking on a bit of shiny glow as some of the signature Ramonet character came through.

2000 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, courtesy of Melvin. Opaque dusty purple. Highly attractive reductive pungency on the nose, developing a bit of leathery quality with overtones of dried tobacco leaves. Medium-full luxuriant palate, boasting layers of ripe darkish fruit imbued with lively acidity that impart brilliant biting intensity amid early secondary characters. Just entering its optimal drinking window.

2000 Château Lynch-Bages, courtesy of Russ. Dark crimson with some bricking. There’s a whiff of sweetness amongst the copious black fruits though the palate is slightly lean in spite of the density of fruit, producing very fine precision. Very dark leafy tone, fleshing out a little after some time with elegant supple intensity before shutting down into a sullen reticence. May need to lay down a little longer.

1990 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Deep crimson. Beautifully mellow with a fleshy presence of fruit that is still quite ample and vibrant, gently layered with subtle intensity, developing a bit of leathery texture over time. Lovely cool balance, almost to the point of aloofness. At full maturity and will not get any better.

1990 Château Lynch-Bages, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson, exuding darkish characters. The keen palate is still quite intense, brightly lit with dense graphite elements amid a deep core of delicious fruit. Very well developed and open, continuing to evolve with further notes of cinnamon and subtle tertiary characters, growing in stature by the hour in defiance of its thirty-three years. Simply irresistible. At its exciting best and will hold for many more years. Truly outstanding.

2014 DuMol Lia Russian River Vineyard Viognier, courtesy of LF at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Pale golden. Powdery white tones of vanilla on the nose. Medium weight, imbued with some creaminess, displaying good clarity underpinned by distinct austere minerals.

2016 Domaine Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 1er, courtesy of Vic at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Pale. Classic Chassagne signature lift on the nose. Excellent presence of clear citrus that impart delicate teasing intensity with good transparency.

2009 Kistler Cuvée Catherine Occidental Italien Vineyard, courtesy of Bob at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Deep garnet. Powerful glossy sheen of dark fruits splashed with vanillin enamel. Generously layered with a bold dark presence, structured with ultra-smooth spicy tannins. Not for the faint-hearted.

2019 Domaine Philippe Livera Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Very deep impenetrable crimson. Forward balance of delicious deep currants, dark cherries and ripe raspberries on the nose and medium-full palate. Well-extracted with plummy fruit and early cedary characters that exert smooth supple intensity, underpinned by just a trace of stern minerality. Surprisingly New World-ish in character. Not ready. The 2017s are drinking better at this stage.

2010 Kapcsándy Family Winery Endre State Lane Vineyard, courtesy of LF at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Cabernet blend from Napa. Very deep crimson. Glossy bouquet. Medium-full with a very ripe fleshy warmth, structured with velvety sweet tannins producing saturated mouthfeel.

1998 Bannockburn Pinot Noir, courtesy of CHS at Long Ji Zi Char, 04 July 2023. Clearly displaying some age, proffering a very lovely glowing bouquet of mature fruit with seamless layers of mocha, cinnamon and tea leaves of medium intensity. Still wonderfully fresh.

2000 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes ahead of dinner at Wah Lok, 07 July 2023. Deeply coloured. Lifted aromas of currants, herbs, dark roses, spice and soy. Medium-full fleshy presence, still generously imbued with cool dark fruits laced with cutting acidity, supported by distinct earthy minerals that lend a darkish austerity. Fleshed out with lovely depth, weight and intensity, becoming more seamlessly integrated over time. Yet to peak.

2018 Domaine Jean et Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis 1er Vaillons, from the list of Centurion Haus, Singapore, over lunch on 08 July 2023. Dull golden. Nose of green fruits, dried plums and peaches, though more recessed and distant on the medium palate with a dryish presence. Fleshed out with refined presence with a tinge of salinity, more rounded and plump than usual for Chablis.

2014 Domaine Valentin Zusslin Riesling Pfingstberg Grand Cru, from the list of Centurion Haus, Singapore, over lunch on 08 July 2023. Dull golden. Intense bouquet of diesel fumes. Medium-full, open with ripe maturing citrus laid on a minerally bed, imparting a tinge of austerity amidst fairly crisp acidity, yielding good definition.

2002 Château Margaux, courtesy of Sir Bob over lunch at Centurion Haus, Singapore, on 08 July 2023. Tasted blind. Some age is evident from the colour and nose, a distant complex of mulberries, ripe wild berries and dark currants that immediately suggests Margaux. Quite sleek on the medium palate with rounded warmth, well balanced with a lovely controlled intensity. Fleshed out with very good presence amid overtones of pochai pills, just missing the charm, depth and layering of the very best years.

2002 Château La Mission Haut-Brion, courtesy of Sir Bob over lunch at Centurion Haus, Singapore, on 08 July 2023. Tasted blind. Deep ruby at the core. Restrained nose of distant red fruits. Medium weight with a distinct pebbly warmth that impart a bit of glare. Quite seamlessly integrated with restrained intensity, displaying fine definition and robust acidity, tapering with good linearity towards a moderate finish. Has a certain rustic feel.

2005 Château Lascombes, courtesy of LW at Imperial Treasure Great World, 10 July 2023. Deep purplish crimson. Alluring glow of rose petals, dark plums and red currants amid secondary characters of capsicum. Medium-full, structured with sweet svelte pliant tannins that offer cushioned intensity, showing good refinement and intensity with further notes of tea leaves and cedar. Drinking well, though it doesn’t quite possess the pedigree of a true deuxième cru.

2015 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Sancerre Le Mont Damné Chavignol, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 10 July 2023. Pale luminosity. This Loire opens with distant tropical fruit and cinnamon on the nose, a little reticent and light initially though excellent in clarity. Developed greater structure after an hour with a deeper vein of longans and crisp minerality tinged with a dash of saline, eventually fleshing out with delightful dry intensity.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet at Imperial Treasure Great World, 10 July 2023. Deep garnet. This wine opens with whiffs of high-toned minerality leading to an open fleshy palate that exudes a distinctly relaxed feel almost to the point of nonchalance before rebounding with a gentle understated intensity. Fully mature in every way though the fruit has yet to start its autumnal decline, holding up well with a prominent note of capsicum. Has class, but just a little short. Another bottle tasted at Beng Thin on 23 July 2023 was appreciably better, absolutely correct in its mature tones, layered with well-developed fruit that is still fresh and fleshy, not drying out at all. At its best and will not improve any further.

Champagne Edouard Duval Noir D’Eulalie Brut NV, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 12 July 2023. Delicate luminosity. Excellent nose of grapefruit, dense citrus and brioche leaping out of the glass, displaying superb zest and freshness with the cushioned intensity of very refined soft gentle bubbles on the richly-layered palate, developing a greater minerally presence over time. Finished well. Excellent.

2017 Evening Land Seven Springs Estate Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 12 July 2023. Light greenish. Shut on the nose, proffering only glimpses of distant lime, citrus and green fruits on the medium palate with an equally minerally presence. Finished with a trace of sweet vanillin.

2020 Domaine Ballorin & F Marsannay Les Echezots, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 12 July 2023. Very dark. Restrained nose of dark fruits and black currants. Well-extracted with generous proportions, its density of eucalyptus and mint (most unusual) almost saturating the palate with trailing spicy overtones.

2010 Château Cissac, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 12 July 2023. Deep garnet. Muted on the nose but there’s no denying the density of black fruits and currants beneath, exuding just a tinge of peachy fragrance. Medium-full, featuring dark plummy fruit superbly integrated with pliant tannins and acidity that exert a lovely tensile presence. Excellent balance. Very sleek, slightly minerally, settling down with softer tones amid a tinge of capsicum. Evolving at a glacial pace. Very fine.

2003 Les Forts de Latour, decanted on-site at Origin Grill, 14 July 2023. Delicious cherries, red fruits and currants on the nose leading to a fresh supple intensity on the medium-full palate, infused with earthy elements that impart a distinct austerity. Structured masculine presence, exuding a lovely effusive glow of cedar, capsicum and tobacco that eventually morphed into the classic Pauillac signature, finishing on a note of exotic spices. At peak maturity. Has class and pedigree.

2020 Domaine Laroche Chablis Fourchaumes 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 15 July 2023. Greenish hues, delivering green fruits and dense yellow citrus with a floral accent on the medium palate with a delicate high-toned intensity. Structured with striking acidity and clarity. Good linearity and finish.

2020 Domaine de la Vougeraie Côte de Beaune Le Pierres Blanches Rouge, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 15 July 2023. Darkish characters of black fruits tinged with bramble. Well-extracted and full, imparting a bit of rasping intensity on the floor, eventually smoothening out with fine tensile presence. A very modern approach.

2005 Château Haut-Marbuzet. Aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at the in-laws, 16 July 2023. Fairly deep garnet, proffering generous swathes of black fruits and dark plums on the nose and palate with robust masculine proportions, imbued with exotic spices that fill its finish with minty glow. Almost New World in style.

2021 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay, drunk over 19-20 July 2023. Pale greenish hue. Excellent presence of delicate citrus and white fruits with a distant floral accent underscored by refreshing acidity. Not too dry, displaying good inner definition. Another bottle drunk over dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 29 July 2023, displayed even greater detail and delineation, infused with a very well integrated minerally presence that contrasted beautifully against the high-toned citrus fruit. Worth every penny whenever it’s on offer at only SGD27.

2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, decanted on-site at Brasserie de Saveurs, St-Regis Singapore, on 22 July 2023. Deep crimson. Highly attractive bouquet of plums, fresh cherries and red fruits tinged with tangerines. Classically structured with soft tannins, the cool ripe fruit already showing early autumnal characters with a distinct note of capsicum, stroking the medium palate with lush supple intensity underscored by a deeper vein of dark currants that taper to a gentle spicy glowing finish. At its best and will hold for several more years.

2003 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz. Double-decanted ahead of dinner at Asia Grand, 24 July 2023. Deep crimson. Dollops of warm ripe fruit on the nose and palate still laced with enamel and medicinal overtones, saturating the palate with a glowing minty freshness that truly belies its twenty years. Boldly structured with lively acidity, layered with mandarins and dense plummy fruit that is classic Barossa in every way, evolving at a glacial pace. Like a true syrah, this wine will probably need another twenty years before it’s anywhere near ready.

2021 M Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage, aired in bottle ahead of dinner at Long Ji Zi Char, 25 July 2023. Golden luminosity. Very fine presence of white tones, peaches, distant olives and nutmeg that impart excellent Rhône character. Well-balanced with refined clarity, finishing with traces of vanillin. Doesn’t try too hard. Satisfying. Great value at SGD27.

2016 Frédéric Magnien Morey-Saint-Denis Blanc Les Larrets, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 26 July 2023. Quite deeply coloured. Greenish hue. Rather shy, proffering just distant notes of chrysanthemum and tea leaves. Good presence of yellow orchard with a bit of oily density on the mid-palate. Very well delineated, fanning out with even chromatic tones laid on darkish undertones.

2017 Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 26 July 2023. Darkish colour and tone. Inviting warm ripeness, proffering a perfumed floral fragrance lit with plummy overtones. There’s some discernible vanillin oak and enamel imparting a certain plasticity though that disappeared quite quickly as the fullish palate transformed into a lush expanse, structured with smooth unobtrusive tannins, developing true pinot character.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Popped and poured over sushi at home, 30 July 2023. Light greenish hue. Excellent chardonnay character of dense white fruits and tangy citrus superbly integrated with sleek acidity and subdued minerals, laced with a dash of salinity. Beautifully fresh and energetic.

The usual suspects convened at Imperial Treasure Great World City on 17 July 2023, focusing on a theme of “red cap” that is a reference to the prohibitively priced domaine wines of Domaine Leroy. But, of course, only a lucky few can boast of them in their collection and, so, I must thank everyone for generously sharing their prized trophies and the likes. All the wines were blinded. By sheer coincidence, the whites were a pair of 2011 Puligny grand crus, while there was also a 2011 pair of Armand Rousseau Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, allowing a rare side-by-side comparison. Amazing as well was how well the 2019 Nicole Lamarche Bourgogne stood against the 1995 Leroy Pommard, both paired in the same flight, proving that top quality exists at all levels. Merci beaucoup!

2011 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Light luminosity. This wine opens with distant floral hues in soft focus, dominated by saline minerals on the medium-full palate. Well layered with pale citrus, gaining traction and intensity as it warmed up in the glass, fleshing out eventually with delicate textures amid traces of nutmeg. Very fresh and impeccably balanced, perhaps just a little short. Doesn’t possess the usual plump heaviness of Leflaive, which I feel is a good thing. Yet to peak.

2011 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Golden luminosity. Surprisingly reticent, warming up with white tones and vanillin not unlike a Chassagne, eventually developing a rounded glowing delicate presence, boasting sleek acidity and refinement with a teasing elegant intensity that is classical of Bouchard’s Puligny grand crus. Still a little tight. Far from ready but already a pleasure to drink if one has the patience to do so over 4-5 hours.

2019 Nicole Lamarche Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tint. Fairly exuberant bouquet of rose petals and raspberries, displaying vibrant youthful intensity with fine clarity and detail. Very well integrated and balanced, structured with rounded gentle tannins that impart a distinct feminine grace.

2008 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Anthony. Some age is evident, exuding a lovely lift of red fruit, cherries and haw with a trailing whiff of matchstick incense. Wonderfully sleek, the supple fruit caught at full maturity with melted tannins, simply poised with elegant tension from the sublime acidity, laced with a slight darkish intensity without any trace of burliness from this vintage. Utterly seamless. Shows real class and pedigree.

1995 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Aged pinot tint. Somewhat restrained. The fruit that comes through is clearly mature though more recessed and backward than a previous bottle tasted in August 2021, imbued with tertiary characters of mandarins, haw and cinnamon underscored by tight acidity that is a little more pronounced now. The balance eventually righted itself after a couple of hours with the emergence of more fruit to the fore, still wonderfully fresh, carried with excellent verve and purity by the gorgeous acidity.

2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru. Some early bricking, proffering distant red fruits with lighter, delicate tones. Very well-integrated and open. Rather demure in demeanour in its refined presence and purity of fruit, layered with subtle acidity, boasting excellent freshness and balance.

2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Deep crimson, exuding a perfumed exuberance of delicious red fruits and varnish. Generously endowed where the fruit, acidity and tannins are structured with sharp precision, brimming with youthful balance and vigour, turning a little more introspective over time with the emergence of austere minerality.

1997 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Mature pinot tint, proffering a distinct note of red capsicum on the nose that overshadowed the fruit. The palate is imbued with a great lift of fruit, still wonderfully ripe and fresh, imparting supple intensity amid darkish overtones. Very seamlessly integrated, just missing the sheer opulence and layered decadence of the best years.

1997 Williams Selyem Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Some age is evident in colour and in its autumnal character, its New World origin immediately recognisable from its darkish minty tones laced with sweet robust tannins though very well-integrated with excellent balance. Still rather fresh and ample. Caught at peak form.

2017 Domaine Jean Yves Bizot Marsannay Clos du Roy, courtesy of Anthony. The faded crimson hues are most deceptive. Soft red fruits and tangerines dominate with a lively high-toned acidity, seamlessly structured with delicate presence, exuding a poised elegance in spite of its tremendous verve. Shows great balance and control, finishing with superb linearity. Unbelievable from Marsannay. Now I’m beginning to understand a little about its crazy pricing.

2011 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin. Displaying an evolved crimson, this wine bathes the palate in a deep velvety warmth, seamlessly structured and integrated with subtle layers of fruit of aristocratic breed whilst the usual minerally presence of Chambertin (as opposed to neighbouring Clos de Bèze) is kept in check. Impeccably proportioned.

1994 Domaine Leroy Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Clearly well evolved in colour, proffering a superb lift of mature dark fruits that still boast superb freshness and sublime acidity, gliding across the medium palate with effortless grace. Utterly seamless. Caught at the pinnacle of peak maturity. Outstanding.

2018 Nicole Lamarche Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely pinot tint, exuding fresh raspberries and currants with youthful swagger and verve, structured with sharp delineation and precision cushioned by rounded gentle tannins that appear to be the style of Nicole Lamarche. Good sophistication.

A gathering of the usual suspects on a theme of Non-French at Jade Palace, 27 June 2023. All wines were blinded.

2015 Peter Michael Winery Cuvée Indigène, courtesy of Kieron. Lovely luminosity. Gleaming tones with some delicate buttery notes. Quite plump and rounded, yielding very fine inner definition with transparent white tones though traces of sweet vanillin still linger. Grew in stature and intensity over time, becoming very Puligny-like as it completed its transfiguration with a gentle glowing finish. Very lovely.

2013 Kusuda Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF. Classic pinot tint, exuding an intense floral bouquet. Medium-full. Excellent integration between the gloriously ripe fruit and sublime acidity, displaying structured definition and great purity.

2001 Beringer Quarry Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Ripe aromatic lift of plummy red fruits, richly chromatic, still splashed with vanillin. Medium-full. Generously proportioned and fleshy, boasting layers of dense fruit laced with spicy capsicum that yield excellent definition, structured with sweet subtle tannins. Exudes relaxed charm and elegance. A gift many years ago from Sir K, bought directly from the winery’s cellar door. Made from a single vineyard, only 200 cases annually.

2011 Marcassin Pinot Noir, courtesy of Kieron. Pinot tint with some evolution. Immediately recognisable as Marcassin in its aromatic lift of haw, delicate red fruits and cherries that led to a superbly perfumed palate of great detail and definition, open with glazed intensity and sublime acidity. Highly agile, developing further notes of gun metal minerality as the wine tapered to a finish of sweet melted tannins. Outstanding. I nailed it.

2004 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia, courtesy of Vic. Darkish core with a bit of bricking. Deeply luxuriant nose, exuding a dark rosy fragrance answered by deep dark velvety fruit on the richly layered medium-full palate, lit with eucalyptus amid some fruity detail, developing further notes of capsicum and exotic spice. Still youthful.

2010 Cayuse Vineyards Cailloux Vineyard, courtesy of LF. Deeply coloured with a lovely fragrance. Full and fleshy, generously proportioned with dollops of warm ripe fruit framed by sweet velvety tannins that impart a cossetting feel. A syrah from Walla Walla Valley.

1992 Penfolds Grange, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep purplish core with just a bare hint of bricking. Distinctly masculine and fleshy, painting the full palate in bold strokes of burly black fruit, sweet dark plums, enamel and varnish. Very well structured, open and highly aromatic, imbued with superb acidity and saline elements that impart taut tension and freshness. Hard to believe that this wine is already into its fourth decade.

1992 Henschke Hill of Grace, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pinot tint. This wine opens with a distilled funkiness, very sleek with a reductive pungency. Medium-full. A little narrow in body but seamlessly integrated with great acidity. More open after some time with a lovely svelte intensity, developing a delicate fragrance tinged with smoky tones.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres 1er. Aired for two hours ahead of dinner at Crab At Bay, 03 June 2023. Quite deeply coloured, exuding dense floral chalkiness with sweet undertones on the nose. Weighty medium palate of masculine proportions, imbued with excellent freshness of ripe citrus and crisp acidity, adding further notes of brioche and honeysuckle with a growing tangy intensity of mandarins. Good length.

Gérard Bertrand An 825 Crémant de Limoux Brut at the Star Alliance Lounge, Paris CDG T1, 09 June 2023. Fresh clean lift of distant green fruits and melons. Medium weight with dryish intensity. Very pleasant. Serves its purpose.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, on board SQ335 CDG-SIN, 09 June 2023. Luminous gold. Intense nose of ripe citrus and pineapples against a backdrop of crisp chalky acidity. Straightforward finish.

2022 Pikes Riesling ‘Traditionale’, on board SQ335 CDG-SIN, 09 June 2023. Alluring floral fragrance along with nutmeg and olives, well-replicated on the soft medium palate with crisp well-defined acidity, infused with excellent minerality and tangy freshness. Excellent riesling character.

2021 Chartron et Trebuchet Pouilly-Fuissé, on board SQ335 CDG-SIN, 09 June 2023. Pale clarity. Gentle layers of olives, nutmeg, pomelo, lime and citrus. Medium weight. Very well-integrated with understated acidity. More rounded and plump than usual for Pouilly-Fuissé. Drinking well.

2019 Dandelion Lionness Shiraz McLaren Vale, on board SQ335 CDG-SIN, 09 June 2023. Medium weight Forward balance of fresh ripe plums amid overtones of sweet incense and enamel. Structured with fairly refined tannins that exude supple acidity and intensity. Moderate finish.

2011 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er. Aired for two hours ahead of dinner at Imperial Treasure Great World, 11 Jun 2023. Mature tones of dark plums and wild berries, slightly medicinal, with a dash of mustiness but definitely not corked. Very good density of cool ripe fruit on the mid-palate with a distinct salinity, gradually gelling together with very fine acidity and minerally depth and emergent red fruits and dark rosy characters. Good balance and finish. From a plot directly abutting Musigny Grand Cru.

2018 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Hameau de Blagny. Aired for two hours ahead of dinner at Otto Ristorante, 12 June 2023. Luminous gold. Forward bouquet of ripe orchard fruit with a teasing floral fullness. Quite brightly lit on the medium palate with a bit of chamfered quality, the fruit set a little backwards, glowing with distant chalkiness.

2005 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, courtesy of John. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 12 June 2023. Good colour. Effusive complexity of red fruits and rose petals that teased with lithe agility. Very generously layered with excellent freshness and fullness, structured with supple sophisticated tannins. Finished well with glowing length. Superb.

2019 Château de Béru Chablis Côte aux Prêtres, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 13 June 2023. Yellowish-green. Fairly deep nose of marine aromas and tangy shellfish. Slick sharply delineated profile of lively acidity and concentrated freshness.

2012 Château Phélan Ségur, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 13 June 2023. Deep garnet. Nose of mahogany, new oak, cigar box and dark fruits. Full warm rounded ripeness, structured with smooth sweet tannins, slightly velvety.

2019 Lieu Dit Winery Cabernet Franc, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 13 June 2023. Deep garnet. Fresh enamel on the nose, promising and delivering ample presence of dark roses, black cherries and ripe wild berries amid overtones of heated wet gravel and malt. Elegantly poised with good balance. Modest finish.

2017 Antinori Antica Chardonnay Block A26, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 19 June 2023. Deep yellowish greenish. Distant green fruits and floral notes on the nose. The fruit is set rather backwards in favour of a dryish chalky glow that blended seamlessly with well-integrated minerality, laced with refined acidity that exert good tension, eventually developing a high-toned oily density. Good balance. Modest finish. From Atlas Peak, Napa Valley.

2016 Domaine Lucien Muzard et Fils Santenay La Maladière 1er Rouge. Popped and poured over dinner at Crab At Bay, 20 June 2023. Deep ruby. Darkish in tone at first, more of dark plums, wild berries and bramble. Well-endowed on the palate, gradually opening up to reveal more of red fruits and ripe cherries with refined chewy tannins, turning sweeter and more delicious whilst maintaining its general elegance. Label-drinkers usually wouldn’t bother with its plain un-sexy label. A connoisseur’s drop.

2018 Vagabond Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 21 June 2023. Clear luminosity. Clean lift of light chalky elements, fig and distant citrus. Good concentration of fruit, exerting a high-toned delicate medium presence, sharply delineated with good definition and clarity. Finished with a bit of tangy spice.

2018 Domaine Louis Jadot Beaune Grèves 1er Le Clos, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 21 June 2023. Classic color. Nose of gentle floral elements and fresh citrus. Medium-bodied. Fleshy with refreshing acidity and well-integrated minerals that culminate in a glowing finish. Good Côte de Beaune character. Settled down with elegant clarity.

2011 Château L’if, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 21 June 2023. Very deep garnet. Whiffs of fresh enamel and deep plummy fruit, delivering a distinctly modern, full, well-extracted and darkish palate supported by a gravelly base. Ultra-ripe and glossy, even for this moderate vintage.

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays. Aired briefly ahead of dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 24 June 2023. Melons and honeysuckle dominate with a high-toned acidity. The full palate is well-layered in clear and yellow citrus, yielding plenty of inner detail. Modest finish of pomelo and bitter lemon.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin Montceau 1er. Popped and poured over lunch at Imperial Treasure Great World, 25 June 2023. Pale greenish. Lifted notes of paraffin, summer hay and morning dew. Strong presence of lemon and tangy yellow citrus laced with crisp acidity. Developed a more effusive note of tropical fruits on the nose though, paradoxically, it started receding on the palate, turning lighter, backward and more delicate.

2002 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Dr WKW. Popped and poured over lunch at Imperial Treasure Great World, 25 June 2023. Good color. Notes of grape skins and icing with early characters of maturity. Still imbued with excellent fullness and freshness, open with fairly intense characters of toast and yeast amid attractive reductive elements. Lovely.

2015 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er. Aired for ninety minutes prior at Imperial Treasure Great World, 25 June 2023. Good color. Elegant bouquet of fragrant rose petals leading to a gentle supple intensity, displaying good clarity and subdued tannin structure, developing greater intensity of fresh ripe cherries over time. Drinking well.

2018 Virginie de Valandraud Blanc, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 29 June 2023. Tasted blind. Pale. Highly attractive nose of peaches and orchard fruit, proffering great clarity. Fairly plump on the palate, imbued with ripe greenish fruit laced with refined acidity, turning slightly darkish, displaying moderate depth and layering. Got better and better in the glass, eventually fanning out with blazing intensity.

2018 Vintage Tunina, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 29 June 2023. Tasted blind. Pale. Delicate lifted of perfumed floral notes, leading to a moderate presence of white tones, clear citrus and some orchard. Quite seamlessly structured with subtle acidity, revealing emerging layers of fruit with good integration and recessed chalkiness.

2017 Le Petit Haut Lafitte, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 29 June 2023. Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Pronounced earthy barnyard funk with overtones of wet gravel, green capsicum and wild berries that is unmistakably Pessac-Leognan. Excellent presence, open with moderate supple intensity, consistently darkish and earthy throughout its length with a distant note of malt and rye, finishing on a spicy note. I nailed it. One of my favourite second wines of all time.

2017 Virginie de Valandraud Rouge, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 29 June 2023. Tasted blind. Very deep garnet. Delicious lift of red fruits and currants. Medium-full. More savoury over time with excellent acidity and intensity, displaying lovely balance and finish. I nailed it.

At the edge of the little town of Saint-Émilion, towards the north, is the road Rue Guadet, named in honour of Château Guadet which is sited there and which has been in existence since the 15th century, coming under the ownership of the Lignac family since 1844. The estate was one of those to be listed under the inaugural 1955 classification of Saint-Émilion wines. Nowadays, Vincent Lignac (truly a Mick Jagger lookalike) runs the 4.5-hectare estate that is managed biodynamically but still utilising traditional tools such as the basket press in its very modest chai. The wines are aged in 30% new oak. Only 20,000 bottles are produced annually, all sold through direct private sales which is why you are most unlikely to encounter Château Guadet at your local retailer. Vincent, who has worked at various estates in France (with Dider Dagueneau), USA, Chile and Australia, is more intuitive rather than scientific in his methods. The wines are dark and robust and well-endowed although there is always a bit of rustic tint towards the finish. They can certainly age. When the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour visited again on 05 June 2023, we had the privilege of tasting its 1971 that was still showing well, just as an ex-château 1962 had been when I had it in December 2020. There is quite an extensive cold dark underground cave system beneath the château housing decades of library stocks. Merci, Vincent, for your time and generosity.

2008 Château Guadet. Good color. Rosy hues of red cherries. Medium weight. Good presence of fruit with a dominant plummy tone underscored by earth, briar and bramble. Very fine acidity, imparting crisp intensity. A little stern and dryish at the finish. Tasted June 2019 at the château. Consistent with a previous encounter in November 2018 in Singapore, also ex-château.

2011 Château Guadet. Deep purple. Rather reticent on the nose though the palate is well-layered with supple black fruits and dark currants within a slim profile, displaying fine presence that tapered to a dryish finish. Tasted June 2019 at the château.

2016 Château Guadet. Still pre-release. Deep purple. Faint rosy hues with overtones of vanillin. Full, expansive presence. Quite generously endowed with darkish ripe fruit, structured with early detailed tannins. Good integration, finishing with a tinge of austerity. Tasted June 2023 at the château.

1971 Château Guadet-St Julien. Poured from magnum. Tasted blind. Clearly evolved in colour though still darkish at the core, evoking distant roses with earthy overtones. Barely autumnal on the palate, still imbued with excellent freshness and very fine intensity of cool darkish characters within a frame of dryish tannins. Minty finish. Very impressive. Tasted June 2023 at the château. The St Julien suffix was dropped in 2005.

I have always wondered how Château La Confession came to be named, but it turns out to be nothing more than a case of religious fervour on the part of Jean-Philippe Janoueix and his family, which established the estate in 2003. The cellars and chai are watched over by a prominent crucifix, while several large paintings and illustrations depicting biblical characters adorn the walls of the modest château. When members of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour arrived in the late afternoon of 06 June 2023, the Singapore flag was already hoisted high at the main entrance. The seven-hectare estate is planted with 66% merlot and 32% cabernet franc on clay and limestone soils, aged in 50% new oak. The average age of the vines is forty years. The château was certified organic in 2010 and biodynamic from 2014. Jean-Philippe also deeply admires the wines of Burgundy to the extent that he utilises medium-toast barrels made by ten different cooperages from Burgundy. The wines are aged in a mix of these barrels as well as amphorae and concrete vats. I have fond memories of the 2011 and 2012, which pack real power, layering and expressiveness, totally befitting of its Grand Cru Classé status. Merci, Jean-Philippe, for our time and generosity.

2022 Château La Confession. Barrel sample of only the merlot component. Beautiful deep purple. Highly aromatic, exuding a fragrant floral freshness. Medium-full. Quite amply layered with ripe dark berries, well-structured with clean elegant tannins. Good balanced. Not yet the final blend but this is very promising. Tasted at the château, June 2023.

2019 Château La Confession. Deep purple. Generous bouquet of ripe raspberries and currants tinged with enamel. Medium weight. Good presence of fruit, structured with subtle tannins. Beautifully supple though a tad leaner in balance, showing some early complexity with overtones of cigar box, spice and a touch of savouriness. Good verve. Tasted at the château, June 2023.

2016 Château La Confession. Deep purple with some crimson rim. Effusive in cool red fruits. Medium weight. Structured with soft pliant tannins underpinned by fresh acidity and an unusual note of olive, imbued with distinct earthy minerals in the mid-body that lent a leaner tone. Modest finish. Tasted at the château, June 2023.

One of the pioneers of the garagiste movement, Château Valandraud has evolved into one of the most successful estates in Bordeaux. Founded in 1991 by self-crafted “bad boy” Jean-Luc Thunevin and Murielle Andraud (Valandraud is derived from “Val” (valley) and her name) and, perhaps, driven by Jean-Luc’s innate rebellious streak, the château has continually challenged conventional wisdom in the pursuit of absolute purity of expression in its wines. Which vigneron from a branded property in Bordeaux would deliberately create a line called Thunevin Bad Boy (a.k.a. marvais garçon in French) or would break A.O.C. rules in order to make wine in extreme weather (like Jean-Luc did in 2000 by covering the vines with plastic sheets to drain off excess water) and still be able to market the de-classified wines successfully (as L’Interdit de Valandraud)? From its humble beginnings as a tiny 0.6-ha in Saint-Émilion village, Château Valandraud now operates from a different location in St-Etienne-de-Lisse, spanning eight hectares of 70% merlot, 25% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon planted at a density of more than 8000 vines/ha. The château embraces innovation with feverish passion and employs micro-vinification techniques, fermenting small batches of grapes separately to gain deeper understanding of their respective terroir which, in turns, allows for greater precision in blending to create a complex and harmonious grand vin. The wine is vinified in a mix of stainless steel, oak and concrete vats, and aged in 100% new barrels. Those who feel that such modern approaches would create over-extracted monstrosities would most certainly be surprised by the 2006 Château Valandraud, a model for elegant Right Bank to rival any of the best. The estate’s rare white, Valandraud Blanc, is also another unconventional beauty, made mostly from sauvignon gris. Clever marketing has tremendously increased the château’s visibility; the tiny village of Saint-Émilion is dotted with several self-promoting retail outlets run by the Thunevin company that are only too happy to ship their wines worldwide to your doorstep. Jean-Luc has certainly come a long way, evidenced by the modern buildings and facilities (completed in 2021) at the estate when a few members of the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour visited in the afternoon of 07 June 2023. And, to top it off after an excellent tasting session, we actually bumped into the man himself as he was enjoying a quiet afternoon by the patio!! Speaking only French, his face lit up when he learnt that we hailed from Singapore, for he remembered with fondness his deep friendship with the late Dr N K Yong who had been a staunch supporter of Jean-Luc since the early days when he was struggling to get Valandraud going. Merci Jean-Luc for a most memorable visit and we wish you good health always.

2016 Virginie de Valandraud. Crimson. Good expanse of fruit and subtle minerals with a warm pebbly glow, structured with sweet tannins that impart fine intensity and attack with sharp definition. Good balance, finishing with good linearity.

2016 Château Valandraud. Deep ruby. Sweet floral overtones of red fruits and plums. Only medium weight, though highly elegant in its supple coolness, delivering lovely mouthfeel with fleeting intensity and fine definition. Not at all heavy.

2016 L’Interdit de Valandraud. Deep crimson. Highly aromatic in ripe red fruits laid with a lush warmth. Open with delicious supple intensity. Made from 100% merlot without quite adhering to strict A.O.C. regulations (plastic sheets were used to drain off excess water during viticulture), hence its unique name. Examine the label closely and you’ll see a pair of hands gripping jail bars, a metaphor most apt.

2014 Château Valandraud. Bright crimson. Generous layers of red fruits on a distinct minerally base that added some earthiness, boasting good verve and supple freshness. Finely balanced. A classic Valandraud, yet to peak.

2006 Château Valandraud. Made from 100% merlot. Some evolution is evident with a profusion of haw and translucent red fruits. Very softly contoured and open, totally seamless, exuding quite a heavenly floral glow from its quiet supple depth. Most elegant. At its best.

2020 Virgine de Valandraud Blanc. Pale greenish hue. Condensed palate of zesty tropical fruit that teased with fine agility and intensity, underscored by a highly subtle minerally vein. Very slightly buttery, fanning out with good precision and clarity. Good balance. Mostly semillon.

2019 Valandraud Blanc. Mostly sauvignon gris. Lovely luminosity. Gleaming nose, not too buttery. Delicate medium presence, imbued with cool white tones that exert fine tension and crisp acidity topped with icing, yielding great clarity.

1975 Thunevin-Calvet Maury. Pale brownish. Powerful medicinal glow of autumnal fruit still imbued with fresh acidity, culminating in a warm minty finish.

For the very first time, Vinexpo Asia was held in Singapore instead of its usual venue in Hong Kong from 23-25 May 2023 at the Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre, attracting 10,000 attendees from the wine trade, featuring wine and spirits from all over the world. The event also incorporated a one-day tasting of the newly-bottled 2020 Bordeaux vintage by the Union des Grands Crus. Various fringe events were also organised around that week to take advantage of the presence of winemakers, producers and sales directors, not least the Jürade de Saint-Émilion Gala (which inducted the French ambassador) as well as 67 Pall Mall’s Bordeaux tasting. The trade-only event meant there was plenty of room to move around leisurely without any pressure, but there was only so much I could handle over the couple of afternoons that I was there. So here they are, all 116 wines listed in the order tasted. Moving ahead, Singapore will alternate with Hong Kong in hosting this annual event.

2018 Château Brulesecaille. From the Côtes de Bourg. Purplish. Plums, briar and earthy tones. Full, warm, velvety ripeness, structured with well-managed tannins. Shows good intensity and refinement.

2017 Château Laffitte Carcasset. Warm ripe wild berries dominate against a backdrop of bright gravelly tones, laced with fine acidity. Very sleek. Good Saint-Estèphe character.

2018 Château Fourcas Dupré. Briar, red fruits and haw amidst a gentle floral fragrance. Good presence of fruit, showing refined acidity and supple intensity. Good balance. From Listrac-Médoc.

2018 Domaine Bony Gachot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes. Good color. Glowing warmth of ripe red fruits. Medium-bodied. Distinct NSG sandy signature with fine presence of fruit and acidity.

2015 Château La Cardonne. Deep crimson. Ripe plums and distilled red fruits amid floral overtones. Cool, understated medium palate, structured with soft subtle tannins. Very harmonious. An excellent Médoc.

2018 Château Haut-Logat. Haut-Médoc. Deep crimson. Earthy smoky savoury characters. Medium-bodied. Highly supple and integral with open intensity.

2022 Château de Maligny Chablis. Grassy morning dew, summer hay and floral characters on the nose. Medium-bodied. Very well-balanced and integral with understated elegance, displaying excellent freshness with unobtrusive acidity topped with a dash of salinity. Good stuff.

2022 Maison Jaffelin Chablis. Distinctly floral amidst morning dew. A little dryish, adding clarity to its fresh clear citrus graced with a splash of cinnamon and tropical fruit that contributed further dimension. Highly integral with understated acidity. Good finish.

2021 Domaine Jean Collet et Fils Chablis 1er Vaillons. Light greenish. Very lovely nose of ripe tropical fruits and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied. Plenty of presence but well-integrated with refreshing acidity, displaying great clarity. Highly appealing.

2022 Château de Tracy Pouilly-Fumé. Pale. Dry grassy elements with after-rain aromas. Structured with good presence and clarity. Well-balanced. Good refinement and acidity.

2022 La Perrière La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc. Pale greenish. Grassy elements and green fruits on the nose, slightly sweet. Refreshing clean clarity. Sleek acidity. Rounded warmth. Very fine.

Champagne Paul Goerg Premier Cru À Vertus. Effusive full creaminess. Dense presence of clear and yellow citrus that exert dry intensity. Somewhat narrow but made up for by its very soft refined effervescence. Drinking well.

Champagne Guerlet-Deguerne Brut NV. A premier cru grower champagne from Chamery, farmed organically. Very attractive darkish nose. Cool, smoky, medium-full. Well-layered with refined acidity. Good zest. Drinking well. 40% pinot noir.

Champagne Brocard Pierre L’Égarée NV. A 50-50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. Floral nose with a distant sweetness of cane juice. Very soft refined effervescence, not too dry. Structured with a clean feel, displaying very good presence and clarity of fruit.

2020 Domaine François Legros Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Perrières 1er. Deep purple. Forward in raspberries and rose petals. Cleanly structured with fine concentration and balance, just a tad narrow. Well-integrated with good energy and focus.

2022 Domaine Lalande Les Hauts de Lalande. Deep purple. Forward nose of briar and bramble. Softly contoured. Imbued with abundant fruit, displaying good presence and acidity.

2018 Château d’Escurac. Médoc cru bourgeois. Crimson, slightly dusky. Full presence of ripe red fruits and currants. Good attack and tensile intensity, finishing with dryish tannins that impart a bit of austerity.

2020 Château Haut-Maurac. Médoc Cru Bourgeois. Purplish. Earthy nose. Clean, dry presence of fruit, somewhat lean and narrow.

2019 Château Lassus. Médoc. Crimson. Ripe savoury nose, fairly rich, though the medium palate is quite the opposite, distinctly dryish with a dash of ember, showing clean lean definition.

2019 Château La Branne. Médoc. Deep crimson with a discernible touch of vanillin. Medium-bodied. Rounded with teasing supple intensity. Good definition. A little lean but the fruit is there, laced with refined acidity.

2018 Château La Branne. Crimson, exuding a certain warm ripeness though the plump palate is rather cool and darkish. Highly integral between the ample dark fruit, acidity and tannin structure. Very refined, almost to the point of aloofness. Modest finish.

2018 Château D’Arsac. Crimson. Cedary notes and dark currants dominate with a touch of vanillin. Rounded with soft unobtrusive tannins, imbued with a deep core of plummy fruit, yielding fine detail and supple freshness.

2020 Château La Mouline. Moulis-en-Médoc. Crimson. Floral notes of dark roses. Soft, medium palate. Well-integrated with good clarity and understated acidity but somewhat underwhelming.

2019 Château Corconnac. Haut-Médoc cru bourgeois. Abundant red fruits, strawberries and currants, proffering an effusive floral fragrance. Well integrated with controlled supple intensity. Drinking well.

2018 Château Bernadotte. Dark purple. Softly contoured with red fruits and darkish elements. Medium-full. Structured with subtle tannin detail. Very well integrated with refined acidity though a little dryish. Modest finish.

2019 Château Beaumont. Haut-Médoc. Crimson. Highly effusive in rosy floral characters. Excellent medium-full presence of supple dark cherries with traces of alcoholic flash. Good attack.

2018 Château Cissac. Haut-Médoc cru bourgeois. Crimson. Some restraint on the nose. Darkish cool ripeness of black fruits. Fresh and highly supple, showing good delineation with a dash of soy.

2017 Château Clauzet. Saint-Estèphe. Deep crimson. Restrained fruit. Softly contoured with a warm ripeness. Fleshy and agile. Good detail. Medium-bodied. Understated acidity. Good harmony. Modest finish.

2016 Château Sociando-Mallet. Deep purple. Darkish tone of currants, raspberries and mulberries. Good attack. Refined intensity. A little bit of alcoholic heat is evident. Spicy finish.

2019 Château La Tour De Mons. Margaux. Purplish. Light-medium. Youthful fruit. Fine acidity. Could do with more stuffing.

2013 Château Langoa Barton. Crimson. Strong note of soy amidst bramble with splashes of vanillin still evident. Soft medium-full palate, structured with rounded slightly velvety tannins. Good detail. Some herbal elements. Modest finish.

2013 Château Montrose. Crimson. Darkish earthy characters with a hint of smoke. Solidly structured. Good attack. Still tightly wound. Modest finish. Somewhat squarish, not yielding much.

2017 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion. Crimson. Good ripeness. Early notes of cedar. Supple intensity and acidity. Good integration though the fruit is somewhat recessed. Modest finish.

2019 Château La Commanderie. Saint-Estèphe. Deep crimson. Darkish rosy glow. Medium-full. Very good integration, displaying terse tension and sleek acidity. Good attack.

2019 Château La Croix de Gay. Pomerol. Deep crimson. Sleek presence of red fruits. Medium-full. Still fairly tight though its tannins are very pliant and supple, exerting fine tension.

2008 Château Lynch-Bages. Deep crimson. Restrained early secondary characters on the nose. Medium-full. Cool ripeness. Highly fleshy and supple, imbued with mocha and soy with a touch of briar, displaying understated intensity and acidity. Very refined tannin structure. Full of feminine grace and elegance.

2016 Château Dufort-Vivens. Deep crimson. Aromas of roasted nuts. Medium-full. Open intensity of predominant red fruits, displaying cool ripeness with great verve and understated acidity. Highly integral. Good finish.

2019 Château Pichon Baron Longueville. Deep opaque purple. Classic nose of dense raspberries and mulberries touched with vanillin. Excellent fullness of cool ripe fruit. Fleshy and agile. Beautifully structured with sleek acidity, exerting supple intensity.

2018 Château Figeac. Deeply coloured. Nose of darkish fruit with dark rosy characters. Highly supple and fleshy, boasting a deep expanse of lush succulent fruit that traversed the palate with excellent delineation and linearity. Highly integral. Very successful.

2018 Château Cantermerle. Dark. Restrained nose of cool dark fruit though the full palate possesses a lovely warm ripeness with early cedary characters, structured with sophisticated svelte tannins and superb acidity, exuding great freshness. Finished well. A real revelation! I bought a case.

2018 Domaine Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Gru. Light golden luminosity. White fruits dominant with a glorious clean chalky sheen. Highly harmonious with restrained verve, displaying lovely clarity with a dash of nutmeg and spicy white pepper. Coiled with tight potential but it’s all there. Good finish.

2020 Maison Louis Jadot Beaune Grèves Le Clos Blanc 1er. Light golden hue. Intense distilled presence of white fruits on the nose and palate with a tinge of nutmeg. Layered with excellent fullness. Beautifully nuanced.

2015 Domaine Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. Good colour. Some discernible vanillin still on the medium-full palate, displaying sharp delineation of cool ripe fruit and sleek acidity. Very well integrated. Highly supple and fleshy.

2020 E Guigal Condrieu. Pale. High-toned floral bouquet with distinct grassy elements on the medium palate. Cool presence. Modest finish.

2019 E Guigal Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc. Pale. Mild bouquet of brioche and nectarine. Cool, ripe white tones laced with vanillin. Very fine presence and layering with an austere minerally tinge.

2019 Château d’Ampuis. Deep purple. Alluring lightness of glorious fresh fruit. Layered with lovely depth and supple intensity. Harmonious. Great energy. Good finish.

2020 Château Léoville Poyferre at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Raspberries and mulberries on the nose. Lovely full tensile presence. Excellent concentration and tannin structure. Masculine. Solid refinement and sophistication with subtle power. Punches above its weight.

2020 Château Talbot at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Nose of rye, malt and raspberries. Good ripeness. Superb integration. Quite full and fleshy but quite unable to shake off that dominant note of rye. Drinking well. Great stuff.

2020 Château Léoville Barton at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Some rye and malt amid cool ripe fruit that display excellent presence and concentration with understated acidity. Very good balance. Elegantly poised. Good finish.

2020 Château Gruaud Larose at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Restrained nose of raspberries and wild berries. Medium-full. Good attack and intensity though tannins are a little dryish.

2020 Château Beychevelle at the Union des Grands Crus. Purplish. Not much on the nose though there’s obviously plenty of stuffing beneath. Pebbly soft, layered with fine acidity with a deeper vein of dark fruit.

2020 Château Clerc-Milon at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Very good lift of red fruits and darkish cherries. Fleshy, supple and highly integral, lit with bright acidity. Shows very fine Pauillac character. Modest finish.

2020 Château Kirwan at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Lovely floral fragrance. Softly contoured with a cool ripeness, well-structured with detailed velvety tannins.

2020 Château Brane-Cantenac at the Union des Grands Crus. Warm pebbly tones. Good fruit, darkish but well-extracted, slightly angular. A little brambly. Good acidity.

2020 Château La Dominique at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Warm ripe fragrance. Medium-full. Good transparency and acidity. Slightly stern and assertive. Good depth.

2020 Château Clos Fourtet at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep purple. Dominant note of rye. Great expanse of fruit beneath. Beautifully rounded and polished. Shows great sophistication and elan.

2020 Château Grand Mayne at the Union des Grands Crus. Purplish. Good intensity of fruit. Fleshy but a little sharp and assertive. Good definition and freshness.

2020 Château La Tour Figeac at the Union des Grands Crus. Deep ruby. Some malt on the nose. Warm, ripe and supple. Very good presence. Highly pliant tannin structure, revealing gritty detail. Superb balance. Great stuff.

2001 Gaja Sperss. Nose of complex red fruits and haw. Soft and supple, medium-full. Deep vein of dark fruit and currants. Plenty of charm and feminine power. Yet to peak.

2021 Anthium Bellone Lazio. Floral green fruits. Lovely fullness of crisp citrus and nutmeg with velvety textures, displaying refreshing tensile acidity with good early complexity. Very well integrated. Good finish. Excellent.

2021 Matidia Cesanese Lazio. Aged six months in old oak. Purplish. Dryish nose with distinct notes of bramble. Medium presence of cool ripe fruit and fine acidity, exerting fleeting intensity. Modest finish.

2017 Casale del Giglio Mater Matuta Lazio Rosso. 100% syrah aged two years in oak. Very deep garnet. Restrained nose. Soft rounded medium presence with some bushy characters, layered with fine acidity and a dash of Asian spice. Well integrated. Not heavy or peppery. Good tannin structure.

2015 Borgogno Barolo Riserva. Pale reddish. Gentle red fruits on the nose and fleshy palate. Structured with supple pliant tannins. Very good definition. Subtly layered. Refined acidity.

2020 Borgogno No Name. 100% nebbiolo. Translucent. Soft floral notes. Rounded. Medium-bodied. Restrained in red fruits, a little backwards. Good acidity.

2020 Tenuta Santa Caterina Illegale Monferrato Rosso. 10% nebbiolo. Pale red. Open rosy hues. Clean, lean definition with a reductive back palate, featuring tight density of darker fruit, olives and minerals.

2020 Tenuta Santa Caterina Vignalina. Made from barbera. Clear purplish. Overtones of heated wet gravel. Medium-full. Good intensity. Quite seamless. Soft elegant fruit. Modest finish.

2020 Monte del Fra Cà Del Magro. Very light yellowish. Lovely floral fragrance. Bit forward. Medium weight. Good concentration of light citrus, displaying fine delicate acidity and deft agility.

2022 Zenato Lugana San Benedetto. Pale grassy elements. Medium-full. Fresh delicate fruit, a little forward. Good clarity. Understated acidity. Modest finish. Easy charm.

2018 Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Ripasso. Evolved red. Plums, rose petals and cherries. Medium-full. Rounded. Quite fleshy with good presence and acidity. Bit earthy. Good tannin structure.

2021 L’Antica Fattoria La Parrina Costa dell’Argentario Ansonica. Light greenish. Cool refreshing feel of green fruits along with olives and nutmeg. Medium-bodied. Good clarity and agility. Fine acidity.

2021 Tenuta Mara Vermentino di Gallura Petrizza Masone Mannu. Pale. Effusive white floral tones and green fruits. Dry medium presence of recessed fruit. Lean definition, laced with ferrous elements. Slightly stern and stemmy.

2019 Cantele Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva. Opaque purple. Delicious raspberries and ripe wild berries on the nose. Medium weight. Soft, understated structure and acidity. Drinking well. From Puglia.

2020 Cantele Amativo. Deep purple. Generous nose of raspberries, mulberries and dark cherries. Quite full. Well-proportioned with tight acidity and controlled intensity. Excellent pliant tannin structure. Good finish.

2020 Kaltern Pinot Bianco Quintessenz. Pale. Effusive bouquet of yellow fruit. Excellent presence of citrus, exerting a high-toned sleek acidity that impart delicate intensity. Good persistence.

2018 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Attractive reductive tone amid a profusion of red fruits. Wonderfully ripe and delicious. Very well-proportioned, structured with sophisticated refined tannins that exert lovely svelte intensity. A tad forward but balanced.

2014 Staglin Family Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby. Restrained on the nose though the medium palate features a generous spread of delicious fruit with a velvety feel, imbued with great acidity and sweetish tannins. Finished well with a dash of minerals.

2016 Viader Red Blend. Deep garnet. Smoky savoury tones with overtones of cedar. Fullish tensile palate, tannins still tight and steely, oozing a bit of sweetness.

2009 Cain Five Proprietary Blend. Deep crimson. Generous delicious lift of delicious currants and ripe plums, a little savoury. Excellent integration. Highly integral with melted tannins, displaying refined balance with a warm ripeness. Not overwhelming. Good finish. From Spring Mountain, Napa Valley.

2016 Burgess Contadina Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep crimson. Generously proportioned with intense warm ripe fruit. Good tannin structure.

2018 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Deliciously ripe effusive bouquet though the fruit is, surprisingly, set rather backward on the medium-full palate, overshadowed by a distinct minerally presence.

2020 Hudson Vineyards “Little Bit” Chardonnay. Light luminosity. Restrained soft presence, the fruit set a little backward on the agile medium palate, finishing with a menthol lift.

2021 Hudson Vineyards Chardonnay. Luminous. Attractive glowing lift nose. Medium-full. Well-layered with refreshing clarity and good verve, slightly sweet with some nutmeg at the sides. Great balance. Good finish.

2019 Hudson Vineyards Phoenix Napa Carneros. Deep garnet. Dark fruits, currants and sweet meat, evoking savoury tones. Medium-full. Open with a lush warmth, displaying superb integration and excellent definition. Very sleek. Well-balanced.

2020 Hudson Vineyards Phoenix Napa Carneros. Deep garnet. Plums, olives and black fruits dominate, exerting terse dry intensity. Highly supple. Good balance and clarity. Well-proportioned.

2019 Hudson Vineyards Old Master Napa Carneros. Deep purple. Quite generous on the nose. Open, a little fruit forward, showing lean delineation with good tannin structure.

2018 Roy Estate Mr. Evans Proprietary Red. Deep purple. Intense bouquet of dark fruits and currants. Open with delicious supple intensity. Good charm.

2018 Roy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Distinct note of lacquer amid savoury characters and ripe raspberries and currants. Medium-full. Integral warm lushness. Good balance. Understated acidity. Good finish.

2015 Roy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet. Distinct note of eucalyptus amid soft red fruits. Open with controlled intensity. Very well-proportioned with excellent unobtrusive tannins.

2007 Roy Estate Proprietary Red. Deep crimson. Generous bouquet of cedar and eucalyptus with a hint of menthol. Utterly seamless. Medium. Fleshy with lush supple succulence, the tannins having melted. Modest finish.

2019 Shafer Vineyards TD-9, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec. Deep purple. Aromatic lift with a dash of eucalyptus. Softly contoured and supple, almost velvety, displaying smooth creamy textures with unobtrusive tannins. Good charm. Balanced.

2019 Shafer Vineyards One Point Five. Deep ruby. Generous nose of red fruits and roses in full bloom. Equally captivating palate of ripe cherries laid on succulent velvety warmth. Good subtle intensity. Bit spicy.

2018 Shafer Vineyards Hillside Select. Deep purple. Nose of plummy red fruits cushioned in velvety hues, promising early complexity. Quite full. Good balance and proportion. More minerally on the mid-palate though the tannins are unobtrusive. Good finish.

2021 Avalon Zinfandel. Sweetish note of eucalyptus midst restrained red fruits. Good acidity. Medium presence, rounded but straightforward.

2021 Raeburn Sonoma County Chardonnay. Light greenish. Highly aromatic. Good verve. More fruit forward, yielding excellent detail and clarity. Very refined acidity. Great balance. Oozing with relaxed charm.

2019 Larkmead Vineyards Solari Cabernet Sauvignon. Good colour. Elegant lift of red fruits. Quite full and warm with a tinge of vegetal base. Medium presence. Quite fleshy though the fruit is set a little backward, giving way to more pronounced acidity.

2019 Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. Good colour. Very correct. Lovely bouquet. Great balance and restraint though there’s plenty going on. Impeccably balanced with supple refined tannins. Highly integral.

2019 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle Red. Deep crimson. Nose of savoury roast and rosy floral fragrance. Medium-full. Dry intensity. Good delineation and acidity. Understated tannins.

2021 Calera Pinot Noir. Good colour. Gentle floral aromas with distilled red fruits. Medium-bodied. Good intensity, underscored by sweet understated tannins with a warm ripeness. Great balance. Good finish.

2019 Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir. Good colour. Prime bouquet of delicious red fruits. Softly contoured with a medium presence, structured with mild tannins that support the glowing lift of red berries. Fine detail. Very refined. From Mount Harlan.

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Good colour. Lovely nose of delicious fruit with rosy hues. Medium weight. Highly integral with refined acidity and intensity. Good balance and finish.

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon. Good nose. Glorious fruit. Great balance and refinement. Open with highly supple intensity. Great balance. Good finish.

2021 Duckhorn Vineyards Decoy Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Highly aromatic with discernible vanillin. Surprisingly open and supple, displaying great purity and balance. Modest finish.

2021 Duckhorn Vineyards Decoy Alexander Valley Merlot. Deep purple. Highly aromatic. Great presence of fruit. Good balance and acidity.

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot. Deep crimson. Restrained nose of red fruits and currants though the supple medium-full palate is fruity and delicious, structured with subtle tannins that impart great acidity.

2020 Duckhorn Vineyards Three Palms Vineyard Merlot. Deep purple. Rosy hues and red fruits with a chamfered quality. Softly contoured with good detail and layering with a substantial core of minerals. Very well-integrated. Good intensity. Lovely poise elegance.

2018 Silver Oak Alexander Valley. Deep crimson. Delicious bouquet of warm red fruits and smouldering ember. Medium-bodied. Quite amply layered with good transparency, subtly structured with refreshing acidity.

2018 Silver Oak Napa Valley. Deep purple. Warm red fruits on the nose with a suggestion of heated gravel. Full ripe palate, dressed in svelte tannins with a distinct minerally base. Somewhat dryish, though impeccably balanced and proportioned. Good finish.

2019 Silver Oak “Timeless” Bordeaux Blend. Deep purple. Restrained warmth. Medium presence. Well balanced. Highly supply and approachable. Modest finish.

2021 Wirra Wirra Church Block. Deep purple. Delicious nose of velvety red fruits. Medium-full. Great energy. Very well-integrated with subtle tannins and understated acidity. From McLaren Vale, South Australia.

2021 Wirra Wirra Catapult Shiraz. Deep purple. Medium presence, displaying supple velvetiness with good structure and definition. Very well-balanced. Drinking well.

2021 Wirra Wirra Woodhenge. Deep purple. Velvety medium-full presence. Generously endowed in dark fruits with plenty of depth and energy. Excellent balance. Well proportioned.

2019 Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz. Quite restrained on the nose though the palate is rather full, imbued with a warm ripeness amid distinct medicinal overtones, layered with velvety depth.

2021 Bleasdale Bremerview Shiraz. Deep purple. Some malt on the nose, leading to a generous warm ripeness of fruit marked by a tensile presence with a bit of alcoholic heat. From Langhorne Creek, South Australia.

2021 Bleasdale Second Innings. Made from malbec. Purplish hues. Warm, soft medium presence. Very well-integrated with structured tannins.

2020 Bleasdale Frank Potts. Good bouquet. Structured with some rustic quality, exuding warm ripeness with a rustic quality amid overtones of mahogany. A cabernet sauvignon from Langhorne Creek, South Australia.

2021 Bleasdale Mulberry Tree Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep purple. Quite effusive in dark fruits, mulberries and currants with a note of rye. Excellent fullness, layered with fine cabernet character with overtones of mahogany. Good acidity.