Ric's Wine Journal

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Mes Cinq Terroirs, aired for three hours prior to dinner at Rhubarb, 01 Dec 2020. Much darker than usual for pinot with a dominance of raspberries and mulberries that exude a dark rosy fragrance. Well extracted on the palate, shrouded initially by a thin sheen of paraffin that blew off to reveal gorgeous purity of intense dark cherries underscored by very fine acidity and traces of graphite minerals, yielding greater youthful intensity and acidity with time. Quite delicious but far from ready.

1988 Champagne Krug Collection, courtesy of Messrs Yu. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Light dull golden. Distinctly mature on the nose with a dominant lift of poached pear and peach reduction. The medium-bodied palate is imbued with Krug’s signature dry intensity of white citrus and brightly-lit minerals, eventually mellowing to reveal a greater expanse of mature chalk, boasting great balance, clarity and precision. Still remarkably fresh. Excellent.

2010 Domaine Roulot Meursault Luchets, courtesy of Messrs Yu. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Light golden. Shy at first, proffering just faint glimpses of cool icing before opening up with lovely clarity and balance, highly understated in its gentle presence of apricot and clear citrus that imparted lithe agility. Seamlessly integrated. Very refined and elegant. Excellent.

2017 Domaine Francois Mikulski Meursault Poruzots 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Pale. Effusive bouquet of smoky incense tinged with an exotic fragrance. Well layered, snapping into focus after ninety minutes with fine balance and relaxed inner detail, finishing with cool lingering flavours. Very fine.

2014 Château de Marsannay Chambertin Grand Cru. Aired for three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Rosy fragrance of soft red fruits, displaying lovely colour and purity. Rather full and rounded. Good concentration of fruit, tight at first with very fine acidity and intensity on a bed of saline minerals before evolving into an open seamless whole, exuding plummy red fruits that exert power and depth as it tapered to a glowing finish. Almost has that extra dimension of the best Chambertin.

2013 Domaine Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny Les Cabottes, courtesy of Tim. Tasted after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Distinctly darkish in colour and palatal tone from a higher extraction of dark fruits. Quite full and fleshy, beautifully integrated and rounded with good sophistication, finishing well amid traces of capsicum.

1998 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Tim. Tasted after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Fine Shanghai Cuisine, 02 Dec 2020. Deep crimson, exuding a classic glow of dark fruits, dried mushrooms, green capsicum and steamed bamboo leaves. Softly rounded and highly supple, displaying fine presence of mature fruit that is still wonderfully fresh along with complex subtle nuances infused with understated acidity. A confident, classy Lafleur that doesn’t call attention to itself. Superb.

2017 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc. Popped and poured at Putien Kitchener Rd, 07 Dec 2020. Pale golden, displaying a light delicate clarity on the nose with fine presence on the palate, imbued with a crystalline quality on a subtle chalky base. Appreciably mellower than a previous bottle six months earlier. Quite lovely without trying too hard.

2007 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Vic at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Luminous gold. Forward bouquet of lovely floral aromas that exude enticing sweetness. Quite vivacious, displaying dry density with open detail and lively acidity, finishing with distinct ferrous tones. Excellent.

2008 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Hock Foong at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Its pallor belies a lovely bouquet of light tropical fruits amid traces of incense and floral aromas while the palate is imbued with excellent presence of high-toned white citrus that exude a certain delicate lightness complemented by very fine acidity, displaying some early complexity as it gained weight in the glass, finishing with ferrous minerals. Far from ready but irresistible.

2006 Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut, courtesy of Sanjay at Kappo Shansui, 16 December 2020. Restrained reductive nose. Still fairly tight with a lovely rounded intensity. Very finely balanced, a tad more minerally over time whilst maintain good clarity of white fruits and clear citrus. Lingers on the palate with great persistence. Excellent.

2018 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 20 Dec 2020. Very refined white floral tones dominate with lithe agility and lovely delicate balance, displaying good clarity with subtle nuances of vanillin and icing, gaining a bit of sharp acidity over time. A real steal at SGD34.

2007 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé, courtesy of CJ at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Lovely lift of light cherries and rose petals with some gentle yeasty reductive tones. Open textures on the palate, characterised by very fine bubbles lit with a bright minerally shine, displaying fine intensity of dry tangerines at the finish. Excellent.

Champagne Ruinart Rosé NV, courtesy of Hock Foong at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive delicate nose of light rosy characters and grapefruit. Rounded with youthful intensity, displaying excellent freshness and crisp acidity. Fairly tight but accessible.

1993 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive bouquet of reductive yeasty tones amidst a polished chalky expanse, displaying excellent fullness with mature secondary nuances and distinct ferrous minerals. Very finely balanced with lovely intensity and acidity, attaining a distilled clarity after some time. Very impressive. Still has decades ahead.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Dull golden. Lovely bouquet of honeysuckle, frangipani and mature tropical fruit tinged with paraffin. Medium-bodied, displaying superb seamless integration within a well-defined body laced with very fine acidity. Developed more of vanillin and intense white tones over time. Youthful but irresistible.

1998 Coriole Mary Kathleen Reserve Cabernet Merlot at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Deep dark garnet red. Rich ripe black plummy fruit with understated licorice on the nose and palate. Subtly structured with good density and robust sophistication, fleshing out with sweet rounded tannins. Excellent.

1979 Emily Bouley Volnay Les Santenots 1er, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Poured from magnum. Fully evolved pinot tone, evoking a lovely feminine floral fragrance of light red fruits with great purity and superb lift on the medium-full palate, still imbued with sweet intensity of fruit and subdued minerals that exude understated complexity.

2009 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Lovely hint of warm pebbles and floral tones on the nose. Rounded, fleshy and seamless whole, imbued with lovely proportions and sleek acidity, displaying excellent purity of fruit with quiet intensity. Just a tad rustic. Drinking well.

2006 Weingüt Markus Molitor House Klosterberg Beerenauslese, courtesy of CHS at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Luminous gold. Medium-bodied, imbued with profound depth of diesel characters and tropical fruits. Almost luscious, though its sweetness is always understated sweetness. Excellent.

2014 Château Rieussec, courtesy of Sanjay at Shang Palace, 22 Dec 2020. Effusive in vanillin and frangipani that imparted a whitish sheen, underscored by a prominence of diesel petroleum, exerting a deep understated intensity. Highly attractive.

2005 Château Sociando-Mallet. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 24 Dec 2020. Deep purple, proffering lifted floral fragrances amid deep dark plummy tones and currants. Medium-bodied. Fairly supple, imbued with distinct ferrous elements amid gentle intensity of fruit. Drinking well.

Champagne Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru (disgorged May 2017), popped and poured at Asia Grand, 25 Dec 2020. Deep bouquet of dense citrus and yeasty overtones amid oily textures and chalky undertones. Medium-bodied. Excellent concentration and agility with very fine understated bubbles, seamlessly structured with lovely subtle nuances, light on its feet with refined acidity and intensity, taking on a dash of brightness that, somehow, resulted in a bit of attenuated depth. Drinking well.

2017 Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Borneo Motors Singapore. Popped and poured at home, 28 Dec 2020. Quite deeply coloured, this Chilean wine displays dark plums, currants and tangerines with a distinct note of malt, rye and heated gravel. Rounded with fine presence and understated intensity, structured with well-managed tannins. Drinking well.

2002 Château Cos D’Estournel, decanted on-site at Origin Grill, 30 Dec 2020. Deep garnet red. Opens with secondary nuances of cedar, cinnamon, dark currants and ripe wild berries in abundance, showing a very fine rounded presence with structured tannins that exert a certain dark intensity, slightly tarry on the floor. Almost stern at the finish. Not the lush velvety sort.

2002 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Shirley Goh at Art, 30 Dec 2020. Wonderful depth of lovely yeasty overtones amidst ferrous minerals on the nose, producing some attractive complexity with a deep rounded chalkiness. Open with great sophistication and agility, displaying excellent concentration with superb crystalline clarity. Very beautifully balanced and integrated. Excellent.

2008 Tertre Roteboeuf, from the list of Art, 30 Dec 2020. Decanted on-site. Full bouquet of rosy floral fragrance tinged with vanillin and graphite elements. Medium-full. Rather fleshy, generously layered lovely ripe fruit and currants that exude warm savoury tones with velvety textures amid traces of earthy elements. Excellent, but still yet to peak.

Champagne Jean Vesselle Prestige Brut NV, from the list of restaurant L’Angelus, 31 Dec 2020. A blend of 30% pinot noir and 70% chardonnay from Bouzy, part of the Montagne de Reims, classified as Grand Cru. Somewhat pale. Attractive bouquet of marine air, saline minerals, subtle ferrous elements and yeast. Very good presence, fullness and depth of lemon citrus and tangerines within a coat of dense fine bubbles, open with fresh warm structured intensity, not too dry. Good finish.

To end such a screwed-up year where we can neither travel nor host big parties, our small group decided to drink our treasured clarets on 15 December 2020 where only the First Growths of 1982 or 1990 would be befitting although nobody would ever deny a 1961 Mouton Rothschild. The line-up was preceded by a promenade of impressive whites while Shang Palace at the Shangri-la Singapore, as usual, lived up to its lofty reputation as the venue of choice for such a stellar evening. Many thanks, everyone, and may our woes be swept away by better tidings in 2021.

1979 Champagne Drappier Carte D’Or, courtesy of LF. Deep golden lustre. Superb powerful bouquet of aged chalk with reductive yeasty and ferrous elements amid brioche and honeysuckle. Still imbued with some residual fizz though generally dry, layered with excellent crystalline presence and fine acidity, lit with intense bright citrus as it turned a tad more metallic over time though somewhat short.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. Pale. Cool gentle icing, light citrus and green elements on the nose. Distinctly feminine, displaying great balance with a glowing intensity of white tones and expressive floral notes. Already quite open and accessible, not showy at all. Developed greater power with more minerally characters over time, yet retaining its lithe agility as it finished with subtle nuances of white pepper and nutmeg. More extroverted compared with Montrachet Grand Cru from the same vintage and producer (tasted just a week earlier), totally consistent with what one would expect of Chevalier-Montrachet. Superb.

1991 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Highly supple, proffering layers of mature fig and jackfruit with a surprising savoury quality. Well-structured with a certain crystalline quality, slightly stern towards the persistent finish but it’s the beautiful feminine suppleness that impressed most.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Lovely golden hue, seducing the senses with a tantalising complex of brioche and chalky minerals tinged with mature apricots. Open with a fabulous ripe golden tone, beautifully structured and layered with fine detail and refined acidity. So absolutely correct in every way. So Leflaive. Superb.

2012 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault, courtesy of LF. Cool crème and icing dominate on the nose whilst a deep core of yellow citrus seduces with teasing intensity, laced with sublime acidity that exude tremendous presence and definition. Almost chiseled with pinpoint precision, yet highly elegant and refined, finishing with great persistence amid traces of smoke and diesel. Superb.

1961 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Bob. Still showing a deep ruby crimson that belies its fifty-nine years, this wine exudes an outstanding nose of haw and glycerin tinged with incense and a dash of earthiness that evoke a real sense of lush velvetiness. The palate is superbly supple and fleshy, still imbued with very fine acidity and fair power from the concentrated bed of mature red fruits and tangerines, stretching with excellent linearity to a cool relaxed finish. Far from finished. Truly outstanding! I was reminded this estate was still a deuxième cru back in 1961. On the basis of this bottle, I’d say that Mouton really deserved its promotion to premier cru twelve years later. What a privilege!

1990 Château Lafite Rothschild. Deep garnet red. Superb earthy pungency on the nose, most alluring, leading to a well-defined palate of dark fruits tinged with capsicum. Structured with lovely proportions. Still imbued with gentle youthful intensity cushioned with velvety sexy tannins, glowing with an intense core of tangerines towards the end of dinner. Excellent.

1990 Château Margaux, courtesy of Vic. Deep garnet red with a crimson rim. Exudes wonderful vibrancy, freshness and intensity that belies its thirty years. Highly supple, imbued with layers of glorious dark fruits and currants with a deep core of tangerines, structured with lovely presence and refined acidity. Utterly seamless. Very naturally balanced, oozing superb charm and elegance. Still has decades ahead. Highly consistent with another bottle tasted just a week ago. Absolutely on song. Truly outstanding.

1982 Château Latour, courtesy of Kieron. Still impressively dark after thirty-eight years. Rather distant and aristocratic in demeanour, showing off its classic Pauillac signature of tobacco snuff and pencil shavings while the palate is wonderfully supple, still imbued with remarkably fresh acidity tinged with capsicum, new leather and cedar without being too involving, structured with understated masculinity. Still has decades ahead. Excellent.

1982 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of LF. Deep crimson. Seductive glow of mature red fruits and currants along with a lovely floral fragrance underscored by a distinct tone of iron filings. Softly rounded, displaying excellent presence and fine acidity amid a tinge of capsicum, developing wonderful suppleness with a tremendous tone of sur-maturite in the glass. Beautifully proportioned and elegant. Quite the quintessential feminine Lafite, to the extent where some may wonder what the fuss is all about, which is to miss the point that great wines don’t need any attention. Superb.

1990 Château Pétrus, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Evolved crimson, proffering exuberant red fruits, haw and rosy hues on the nose that immediately suggests a wine of impeccable pedigree and distinction. Bright, supple and plush, layered with glorious fruit that impart lovely acidity with understated sweet intensity, that perfumed floral fragrance again marking its presence on a bed of velvety tannins underpinned with subdued iron filings. Glowing finish. We rightly guessed a Right Bank without realising we were tasting one of the very best efforts of Pétrus. A magnum of this same wine tasted back in 2017 was even more profound in depth, dimension and definition but this is still outstanding.

My fellow vino sisters and brethren showered me with some of the best drops of God throughout the day of 10 December 2020 when I turned a little older and, hopefully, wiser. My deepest gratitude to all for your wonderful company, friendship and generosity.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of Russ. Light golden. Superb balance right off the blocks, its even tone of delicate complex citrus and pomelo casting an almost ethereal quality without calling attention to itself. Completely understated, poised with utter refinement and sophistication that very few others can rival. Outstanding.

1998 Champagne Krug. Deep greenish golden hue, exuding a gently reductive yeasty nose. Medium-bodied. Open with fine clarity and lively presence of dense yellow citrus and lime tinged with a trace of austerity. Fleshed out evenly with superb expanse and balance, imparting some bright minerally overtones within its mid-body, oozing with sweet gentle intensity at its lasting finish. Excellent.

2016 Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne, courtesy of Stephen. Pale, proffering glimpses of cool icy tones at first with fleeting tropical fruit that became more pronounced after some time. Gently layered with white fruits that impart refined intensity and acidity, yielding fine precision with an open crystalline quality on a bed of subdued chalk. Distinctly feminine. Excellent.

2011 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ruchottes 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Pale. Rather restrained though the quiet intensity of white tones on the palate is evident, gradually warming up in the glass to yield a glowing mouthfeel of the classic dry Ramonet signature, displaying fine precision and elegance with early notes of nutmeg. Lovely.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru. Double decanted for eight hours prior and aired in bottle again for another two hours. Pale, proffering delicate white tones on the nose, almost faint at first. Quite ethereal on the palate with a lovely seamless presence of white flowers and nutmeg, almost aloof, gaining some mild intensity as it gradually opened to reveal excellent detail and precision, beautifully proportioned with everything in place. Distinctly feminine. Far from ready, of course, but a wine that is already so complete at its infancy can only be destined for greatness.

1962 Château Guadet St-Julien. Ex-château, a bottle specially sent over by winemaker Vincent Lignac himself. In spite of the cork being completely soaked through (proof that it had never been re-corked), this wine is still quite deeply crimson, exuding a gentle delicious glow of mature red fruits with a soft supple presence of dark plums on a very fine graphite base, its tannins having melted ages ago. Very fine. Just shows how good a non-classified Saint-Émilion can be.

1986 Château Angelus, courtesy of Dolly. Still rather dark. Beautifully mellow, showing fine presence of ripe wild berries and darkish characters. Still imbued with good intensity even as its tannins have begun to recede, finishing a tad short with traces of cordite. Very fine.

1990 Château Margaux, courtesy of Russ. This supposed 100-pointer is absolutely gorgeous on the nose, opening with a deep dark intensity that led to a broad fleshy expanse of mature dark fruits and currants, structured with pliant supple tannins that extend a lovely mellow presence, still remarkably lively, layered with an even tone that took on greater intensity and fine minerally detail over time. Seemingly ageless. Truly wonderful.

1994 Château Haut-Brion. Somehow, this vintage of Haut-Brion has gained a certain cult status, and little wonder. Still showing a deep garnet red with a lovely bouquet of red fruits, kumquat and tangerines, this wine has mellowed beautifully as a fleshy seamless whole, exuding superb lift of mature fruit with fine depth, inner detail and acidity without calling attention to itself. Drinking superbly, reminding one again that there is no such thing as a bad Haut-Brion.

1998 Château Ausone, courtesy of Kieron. Rather darkish in tone and character, this wine opens with an astounding bouquet of luxuriant black fruits and currants that delivered rich layers of delicious ripe fruit and earthy minerals across all dimensions on the palate, exerting a vibrant high-toned complexity with lively acidity, much more open than before, displaying early secondary nuances. Still yet to peak. Superb.

1990 Château Ausone, courtesy of Sandy. Still deeply coloured though surprisingly restrained on the nose, almost haughty. The palate displays a great abundance of dark fruits and currants imbued with refined acidity and very finely detailed graphite elements that impart superb verve and supple intensity, trailed by overtones of cordite and capsicum all the way to its lasting finish. Still youthful after thirty years. Outstanding.

1983 Château Ausone, courtesy of Stephen. Displaying an evolved crimson, this medium-bodied Ausone has an open relaxed character, basking in delicious red fruits that carried a certain sur-maturite, poised with rounded suppleness. Has an air of rusticity in spite of all its elegance.

1983 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Russ. Deeply coloured. Layers of mature tangerines, nectarine and apricots dominate with superb vivacious presence, almost luscious though never in danger of being cloying, still imbued with youthful concentration and sublime acidity that ensure there is still plenty of life ahead. Outstanding.

Time to host my annual party, this year again at Jade Palace on 09 December 2020 without any specific theme. Would have involved more people and more wine were it not for Covid-19 restrictions. Many thanks for your contributions, guys!

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau Meursault-Perrieres 1er. Deep golden. Some initial cork taint was evident, though it cleared sufficiently to reveal mature white floral tones against laid-back chalk, citrus and tangerines. Possesses a cool placid quality with acidity that’s still fairly fresh, developing fine intensity with further traces of cinnamon though its finish was short. Certainly not the best example of this wine, as another bottle back in November 2019 had been outstanding.

2015 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin Morey Saint-Aubin Les Champlots 1er, courtesy of LF. Very pale and restrained, displaying just flashes of fleeting acidity before developing the classic laid-back Saint-Aubin character amid overtones of cool icing and vanillin, replete with a hint of tropical fruit. Fairly rounded but slightly recessed though there is no lack of depth, showing some early secondary development. Not the usual tight chiseled quality of PYCM.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er, courtesy of LF. Pale, proffering even minerally notes and gentle white tones, evoking a sense of floral fragrance with lovely cool clarity. Very well balanced and integrated, laced with superb acidity and exuberance that never went out of control. Excellent.

1989 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus 1er, courtesy of MH. Evolved brownish red, evoking a hint of heated gravel amid swathes of mature plums and raspberries that still coat the palate with fine seamless intensity, distinctly feminine in demeanour as it tapered to a sweet gentle minty finish. Very fine.

2004 Château Lafite Rothschild. Superb lift of detailed red fruits framed within pliant structured tannins. Softly rounded and fleshy, revealing fine depth and layering, its refined acidity and fleeting intensity conferring a distinct feminine character, just ever so slightly pointed, finishing well with traces of capsicum. Quite the classic Lafite without the plushness of the best vintages.

1994 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Vic. Lovely fragrant lift of dark fruits and rose petals, well replicated on the palate with a rounded minerally sheen. Distinctly darkish in character with a vegetal tinge but superbly integrated, laced with fine subdued acidity. Drinking well. Lafleur in so-called “off” vintages scores well.

1996 Château Palmer, courtesy of Sanjay. Deep garnet red. Open with a subtle earthy glow amid dark berries, black fruits and currants, structured with plush tannins and superb acidity that imparted lovely presence. Great balance and integration. Caught at its peak and will hold for many more years. Excellent.

2018 Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz, 01 Nov 2002. Aired for 5 hours prior. Inky purplish black, imbued with copious black fruits and dark currants tinged with licorice, structured with rounded controlled tannins and tame acidity. Surprisingly accessible.

2015 Domaine Georges Lignier Chambolle-Musigny, popped and poured at Venue by Sebastian, 05 Nov 2020. Dusty red tint, proffering a gentle bouquet of red fruits and rosy hues with earthy saline minerals. Gently layered with understated weight and acidity, exuding lovely feminine presence and freshness. Turned slightly darker and a tad more austere before fleshing out with a deeper note of currants, eventually becoming highly intense and acidic after 90 minutes. Not ready.

2003 Domaine du Pegau Cuvée Réservée, aired well in advance at The Communal Place, Joo Chiat, 07 Nov 2020. Opaque mature red. Opens with dark plummy fruit, currants and tangerines on the nose while the well-integrated medium-bodied palate is appropriately darkish with a juicy succulence, layered with fine presence, intensity and acidity amid mild herbal overtones that culminated in a minty glow at the finish. Drinking well.

2017 Domaine Louis Jadot Macon-Villages. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 08 Nov 2020. Faint greenish hue. Attractive oily density imbued with white citrus amid some degree of chalkiness on the medium-bodied palate, displaying good clarity and concentration with a trace of floral bloom. Took on a lovely sheen of white minerally tones with understated intensity after 90 minutes. Great quality for SGD39.

2000 Château Prieuré-Lichine, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 13 Nov 2020. Deep garnet red. Dark plums dominate with a lovely deep gentle fragrance whilst the palate is structured with soft rounded tannins that offer full appreciation of the glorious bed of dark currants, mulberries and fine acidity that glowed with detailed intensity after an hour. Quite excellent.

2006 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa, popped and poured over lunch at Asia Grand, 15 Nov 2020. Dark plums, licorice, herbs and dark currants dominate with surprising warmth and ripeness, displaying lovely supple fullness and intensity. Almost velvety. Finished well with rounded tannins and understated acidity.

2016 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz. Popped and poured at Beng Thin, 21 Nov 2020. Impenetrable dark inky purple. Abundance of classic warm Barossa black fruits and currants tinged with licorice, displaying good weight and agility, not overwhelming in spite of its 15% abv. Certainly approachable but it doesn’t quite possess the rich creamy depth of the old style Dead Arm.

2017 Maison de Montille Saint-Romain. Popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 24 Nov 2020. This wine opens with a delicate minerally clarity, eventually fleshing out with very fine presence of delicious white fruits and nutmeg tinged with grassy elements amid chiseled chalky tones, showing excellent inner definition, balance and verve. Highly under-rated. Brings back memories of a picnic I had at Saint-Romain in November 2017.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée NV, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Deeply coloured. Attractive bouquet of light peaches, intense tangerines and kumquat that led to a clean dry palate, imbued with fine acidity and a hint of austere minerals. Shows good presence and freshness, developing a bit of smoky quality and earthiness after some time. Drinking well.

2015 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Pale. Rather shy at first, proffering just whiffs of paraffin and tangerine, showing very fine acidity though the fruit is rather backward. Fleshed out very well as it warmed up to the right temperature with a highly refined white floral fragrance on a bed of understated minerals, becoming a little more Chassagne-like in its white tonal fullness though it quickly receded back to its classic Saint-Aubin character, finishing with good persistence. Excellent.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Dull golden tint. Shy, displaying a subdued chalkiness with recessed fig and apricot. Took its time to develop superb fullness on a base of chalky expanse, imbued with very fine acidity and understated intensity that lend further verve and agility, producing a lovely fleshiness. Excellent.

1996 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. This wine opens with an attractive tinge of reduction amid traces of heated pebbles, marking its entry with a delicate open chalkiness, very well balanced with understated complexity, remarkably refined and elegant in spite of its youthful energy and vibrancy. Became a little more crisp with a rich oily density but the style is distinctly different from the razor-sharp precision of Coche nowadays, appreciably more of restrained nobility and balance than outright exuberance. All the better. Superb.

2000 Château Haut-Bailly, aired for three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Deep purple with a bare rim of crimson. Raspberries, mulberries and dark roses dominate with a bit of sweet overtones. Quite fleshy with fairly sharp acidity amid traces of bright minerals, slightly darkish in character at first though it eventually opened up with mellowed intensity, revealing detailed red fruits, haw and mature plummy tones. Still yet to peak.

1985 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of LF at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Dominant lift of capsicum amidst dark fruits and currants. Highly agile on the palate, lit by mature red plums and earthy minerals that impart a mellow complexity with delicate balance and fine inner detail. We were spot on in calling it La Conseillante though it gave the impression of a much younger wine. Excellent.

1986 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Tasted blind. Displaying a well-evolved crimson, this wine still displays a confident presence of fleshy dark tones that exude a distinct femininity, tinged with a characteristic leafiness (undoubtedly from the petit verdot favoured by this estate in its blend) that gave away its identity, structured with well-defined acidity and supple tannins, developing a further hint of snuff and wood chips towards its fine finish. Very lovely.

2004 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 26 Nov 2020. Double-decanted on-site and tasted blind. Deep garnet red tinged with crimson at the rim, displaying a deep intensity of dark berries, red fruits, currants and dark cherries on the nose and palate, imbued with a discernible presence of graphite. Rounded and fleshy though slightly dryish and stern, fairly open and well balanced with very fine depth and wealth of inner detail. Has a certain masculine sophistication, breed and pedigree. We thought a Las-Cases or, perhaps, even a Latour. Excellent.

2017 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé, popped and poured at home on 30 Nov 2020. Light golden-greenish hue, proffering fairly rich white floral tones with very fine clarity, tinged with darkish minerally undertones. Has excellent presence, acidity and freshness, showing good definition and structure. Compares very favourably with any Côtes de Beaune.

Our small group hit a new record for the number of bottles consumed per person on 11 November 2020 at Imperial Treasure Great World, where the primary aim was to welcome C J back from his onerous duties at a distant sultanate whilst exploring the relative merits of smaller plots of Vosne-Romanée. The focus was on La Croix Rameau 1er, a 0.60 ha plot at the north-eastern corner of Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru with three owners (Lamarche 0.21, Coudray Bizot 0.20, Cacheaux 0.16), and Les Petits Monts 1er. The latter, as the name implies, is an uphill promontory comprising rocky clay and limestone flanked by illustrious neighbours: Cros Parantoux 1er to the north, Aux Reignots 1er to the south, and Richebourg Grand Cru to the east. As expected, the Petits Monts 1er showed greater dimension in every aspect apart from the finish. Thank you, Dr Ngoi, for dinner and for the wines as well.

2008 Champagne Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, courtesy of Vic. Quite deep in colour, proffering a lifted deep yeasty bouquet followed by dense chalky minerals, yellow citrus and pomelo on the full-bodied palate that bore a distinct minerally shine mouthfeel, imparting a dry austere intensity. Not ready.

2002 Champagne Dom Pérignon P2, courtesy of C J. Light dull golden, exuding a delicate floral lightness and clarity from the excellent concentration of clear citrus, medium-bodied with an open dryness, developing a bit of layered depth over time. Still youthful.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of C J. Light golden hue, proffering a lifted lightness matched by a dry delicate concentration of clear citrus within a narrow spectrum of flavours, slightly bright. Still rather tightly coiled with tense acidity. Truly for the long haul.

2012 Château Pape Clement Blanc. Dull golden. Most unusual nose of paint, enamel and paraffin with a powerful suggestion of rich oily density. Forwardly balanced but still tight, layered with a soothing creaminess amid cool icing. Far from ready.

2017 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. Beautiful deep pinot tint. Restrained with some rosy hues. Medium-bodied. Fleshy and rounded, displaying fine balance and acidity though narrow in spectrum, mellowing after some time with greater detail and relaxed intensity though short. Still primal.

2006 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. More evolved in color. More effusive as well in rose petals and red fruits tinged with paraffin, structured with very good definition on the medium-bodied palate. Very well integrated and balanced with excellent purity of fruit but lacking layering and depth. Short finish.

2017 Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts 1er. Deeply coloured, hinting at heated pebbles amidst delicious  red fruits and currants on the nose. Medium-full. Rather narrow in spectrum at first, eventually fleshing out with broader expanse, displaying very good presence with fine acidity and intensity though there is a persistent trace of minerally shine within its understated tannin structure. Not ready.

2014 Charles Van Canneyt Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts 1er. Beautiful clear ruby, exuding a very fine presence of ripe cherries and rose petals. Seamlessly integrated with superb acidity and verve, showing lovely balance though marred by a short finish.

2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Christiane. Evolved pinot tint, proffering an effusive rosy fragrance. Fleshy and rounded with lovely presence of fruit underscored by controlled acidity and intensity. Utterly seamless, finishing well with excellent linearity. Exudes a very correct feel in its refined feminine elegance, almost delicate although there is understated power, just missing that extra dimension of La Tâche even though it is nestled right next to that famous monopole.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of CHS. Glorious pinot tint. Wonderful lift of cherries, red fruits and deep rosy hues. Medium-full. Rounded with smooth velvety textures and excellent ripeness of fruit, oozing feminine charm at just the right level of concentration, acidity and intensity. Most excellent.

Superficially, there may not be much to differentiate between Chambertin Grand Cru and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Both are approximately equal in size (the latter a little larger) and both are sited adjacent to each other along the same side of the Route des Grands Crus, separated only by a narrow dirt lane. In his book Grand Cru, Remington Norman writes that, perhaps, the vines of Clos de Bèze get a little more light which may, in part, account for the wine’s ability to combine velvety power with alluring grace while Chambertin itself tends to be more austere and structured. For our blind tasting on 10 November 2020 where the wines had been aired considerably in advance, I certainly could not call a Chambertin from a Clos de Bèze, perhaps because two of the former hailed from Domaine Ponsot (what a rare coincidence, considering Ponsot owns only a very tiny 0.1 ha of Chambertin), pressing home the point again that, for Burgundy, it’s the producer that matters most. We left it to the little old lady at Jade Palace, Singapore, to pour us the blinded reds in any order. To our astonishment, she appeared to have hit the correct order for each wine grew from strength to strength. The line-up was preceded by a mini-promenade of whites that proved to be a worthy front to the evening’s main event. The wines are described in the order poured. Many thanks, everyone.

2006 Champagne Comtes Taittinger Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of KG. Pale. Some attractive pungent earthiness on the nose offset by great density of clear citrus and green fruits on the palate, yielding bone-dry intensity and precision with a dash of sweetness. Still primal.

2016 Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret 1er. Beautiful white floral fragrance, displaying a very lovely bloom with a sense of oily density. Excellent presence and mouthfeel, hinting at nutmeg and other exotic white tones, glowing with fine clarity and refined acidity. Became considerably more relaxed over time with a quiet elegance. Montille’s plot is just immediately north of Drouhin’s Marquis de Laguiche Montrachet Grand Cru along the same longitude, separated by just a small road.

2013 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Clos Saint Marc, courtesy of Vic. Beautiful clarity on the eye and palate, proffering lifted white tones, tangy spice, capsicum and nutmeg with a dash of vanillin. Rather open. Very well layered with detailed presence and excellent refinement, receding a little into its shell after some time before re-emerging with even greater clarity and definition though it remained rather understated in intensity, finishing a little short. Drinking well. Totally biodynamic, Jean-Marc uses laser beams to ensure perfect alignment of all his barrels.

2009 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Its distinct pallor belies an enthralling feminine fragrance of white floral tones that seduces the senses with gentle elegance, rather understated in intensity and attack as it traversed the palate with effortless grace, etching layers of white fruits, clear citrus and grassy elements that yield great clarity and detail, becoming more robust and structured by the end of the evening. Has that same regal demeanour as Montrachet Grand Cru which, perhaps, carries even greater inner definition and seamless integration. Superb.

2008 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin Grand Cru. Evolved ruby with a crimson rim. Lifted bouquet of red fruits, cherries, vanillin and mint tinged with some incense. Fleshy and rounded with predominant plummy tones, exerting fine intensity of fruit that finished in a minty trail but this wine doesn’t quite possess the extended depth and layering of the best examples, lacking stature.

1997 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Displaying a mature brownish-red, this wine opens with a distinct herbal medicinal sweetness amidst an abundance of mature plummy tones, rounded with striking acidity on the palate where the lovely ripeness of fruit contrasted well with traces of earthy austerity within an understated tannin structure without any burliness. Quite excellent.

2002 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Opaque purplish. Lifted bouquet of dark cherries and raspberries. Very well-endowed on the palate, rather plump and plummy, laced with superb acidity that imparted lovely freshness. Very naturally balanced with good structural definition. Caught at its peak and will hold for many years. Excellent.

2009 Henri Boillot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Deep colour, bit of crimson at rim. Fascinating deep bouquet of dark fruits and currants. Fleshy and rounded with warm ripe fruit, well extracted with a plummy dominance, slightly velvety. Great balance.

2007 Domaine Ponsot Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of KG. Classic evolved pinot tint, exuding a great lift of ripe red fruits and tangerines on the nose and generously endowed palate, seamlessly integrated with wonderfully refined balance and superb acidity, gaining further intensity over time as it developed a deep tangerine core. Outstanding.

2006 Vincent Girardin Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Purplish hues. Still youthful on the palate, rather fleshy, displaying an abundance of well-extracted ripe berries that exert a warm velvety presence with very fine acidity and intensity, structured with refined tannins. One for the long haul.

2005 Renato Corino Barolo, popped and poured at the in-laws on 01 Oct 2020. Deep brownish red. Generous deep plummy tones on the nose while the palate, structured with pliant tannins, is almost cabernet in character with notes of truffles and dried leaves amid dusty textures, becoming slightly sweeter and medicinal over time.

2003 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, popped and poured over dinner at Imperial Treasure Great World, 08 Oct 2020. Opaque crimson with a fairly effusive glow of dark plums, red fruits and capsicum. Quite full. Softly rounded. Structured with supple tannins and refined acidity that yielded fine inner detail of cordite and incense with understated intensity, just a tad stern at its refreshing minty finish. Very fine though somewhat unsettled, lacking the opulence of the best years.

2005 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, tasted over 10-11 Oct 2020. Still incredibly dark. Barely evolved at all after 15 years, imbued with a highly intense sheen of ripe dark cherries and currants on a full palate that is still tight and rather unyielding, underscored by fresh acidity that imparted a very clinical feel. Half the bottle was kept overnight and re-tasted again after 24 hours, coming across much better this time with softer supple tannins without losing detail and freshness, loosening up with discernible notes of mocha and chocolate, becoming more Bordeaux-like.

2019 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, popped and poured at the in-laws, 15 Oct 2020. This wine opens with a highly attractive profusion of morning dew, dry grassy elements, nutmeg and olives that explodes with full presence on the palate, exuding a bit of rusticity with its stony intensity and solid acidity. Excellent value.

2008 Rockford Black Shiraz. Popped and poured at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. Effusive nose of classic Barossa shiraz amid overtones of smoke, incense and characters of medicinal powder. Layered with excellent concentration of rich dark plummy fruit and currants, displaying lovely depth and freshness with that classic liquored trail that oozed with sweet undertones. Not too dry. Drinking well.

2012 Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Hiok at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. Very dark, exuding a powerful highly unusual nose of intense glycerin that obscured everything else. Quite smoothly rounded, imbued with full presence of dark cherries and currants that tapered with fine linearity to a long minty finish though I found its distinct alcoholic underpinning to be distracting.

2007 Lokoya Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Vernon Lee at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. Deep garnet red. Shy at first, though there is a distinct sweetness on the nose. Fleshy with rounded suppleness, displaying very good concentration and weighty detail. Quite seamlessly integrated, forward with a dash of mocha amid layers of black fruits and currants but very well balanced, finishing with gentle minty length.

1992 Henschke Hill of Grace, courtesy of John at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. Decanted on-site. Displaying evolved purplish hues, this wine was highly reductive on the nose, exuding a marked earthy pungency that led to broad swathes of black fruits and currants amid overtones of soy with a trace of dusty tannins on the floor. Developed further notes of plums, licorice and camphor as it fleshed out with lovely succulence, becoming beautifully integrated and wonderfully intense as it finished with minty length. Superb.

2001 Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Jeremy at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. Decanted on-site. Impenetrable red. Full presence of warm ripe fruit and dark currants imbued with a tinge of green capsicum that reminded me of Pichon Lalande. Very well balanced and layered, evolving further notes of sweet plums. Lovely length. Drinking very well.

1998 Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, a bottle I’d bought directly from the estate back in 2016. Aired in bottle for two hours prior at OSO Ristorante, 16 Oct 2020. This wine evokes a gentle earthiness that recalls the terroir of Pessac-Leognan with a hint of diesel and toffee. Still remarkably full, richly layered with lovely ripe fruit and dark currants that exude bright plummy tones with exciting intensity, beautifully integrated with smooth tannins as it finished with excellent linearity and refinement. Caught at its peak and likely to hold for many more years. Superb.

2018 Meerlust Chardonnay, popped and poured at Ka Soh, 18 Oct 2020. Light golden. Very good concentration and density of clear citrus with distinct minerally chalky hues seamlessly integrated with white tones and exotic spices. Shows excellent inner definition with great acidity, verve and refined intensity. Even better than a previous tasting at the estate’s cellar door in December 2019. I’d have thought it to be a Meursault if blinded. Thoroughly excellent. Superb value at SGD49. Ignore South African wines at your own peril.

Champagne Leon Launois Cuvée Réservée Brut NV, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 20 Oct 2020. Effusive nose of dense floral aromas that led to a very fine concentration of light yellow citrus on the palate with plenty of presence with an understated chalkiness. Grew in weight over time, becoming more forward with a stony dryness. Good value.

2010 Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Meursault-Blagny 1er La Genelotte, courtesy of Dr Beng at Otto Ristorante, 20 Oct 2020. Tasted blind. Some age is clearly evident by its colour, proffering a highly enticing rounded bouquet of cinnamon, caramel and cool icing. Distinctly feminine in its delicate body of floral tones presented with a placid aloofness, gaining greater presence and intensity even as it remained poised with elegant refinement, finishing with excellent length. I thought it was a Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. Superb.

Champagne Oudinot NV, courtesy of Chris Chong at his residence, 22 Oct 2020. Green fruits dominate amidst darkish undertones in this medium-bodied blend, veering towards some sweetness and a hint of agar.

2014 Antoine Jobard Meursault Poruzots 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Yan Ting, St Regis Singapore, on 24 Oct 2020. Luminous gold. Subtle chalkiness, crème and white fruits dominate on the nose, hinting at a luscious wine though it was far more understated and delicate on the palate with a clear presence, displaying fair intensity with sleek acidity. Took another ninety minutes for it to open up with greater intensity of fruit and limestone characters, finishing well. Not ready but would be excellent in time to come.

2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion, double decanted in advance at Yan Ting, St Regis Singapore, on 24 Oct 2020. Dark purple. Shy reticence at first, displaying a clean palate of supple dark fruits, mulberries and delicious currants with surprisingly mellow feminine proportions for a claret. Fleshed out after some time with greater weight, intensity and detail though it never really plumbed the depths, staying in balance with understated tannin structure. Very fine. This is the final vintage of this now-defunct estate, its 4.9 hectares having been reabsorbed back into Château La Mission Haut-Brion.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Saint-Veran Champ Rond. Aired in bottle for 3-4 hours prior at Horses’ Mouth, 29 Oct 2020. Delicate white tones on the nose with a distinct feminine fragrance while the highly refined palate is packed with cool white fruit that exude a dense minerality that is almost oily in quality, oozing with juicy clear citrus. Took its time to unwind, loosening its grip to yield greater depth with a relaxed intensity. Excellent.

1996 Champagne De Venoge Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of Sandy at Horses’ Mouth, 29 Oct 2020. This wine opens with a clean lifted bouquet of dense yellow citrus, rather dry and forward at first before going on to develop complex overtones of burnt toast, white tones and dense minerals with very fine acidity, fleshing out with robust intensity and vigour with even greater minerally intensity. Still youthful.

2009 Domaine Marquis D’Angerville Volnay Champans 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Horses’ Mouth, 29 Oct 2020. Beautiful clear ruby. Lovely bouquet of red fruits, incense, camphor and heated gravel while the palate is imbued with excellent ripeness and purity of red fruits and rose petals that exert a gentle rounded warmth, very well integrated and balanced, finishing with good length amid subtle notes of smoldering ember. Excellent.

2006 Ramey Wine Cellars Larkmead Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Melvin at Horses’ Mouth, 29 Oct 2020. Deep garnet red. Surprisingly open, revealing excellent presence of red fruits and currants amid overtones of smoke and savoury sweet meat with very good detail and agility. Very well balanced, neither monolithic nor overwhelming, developing further intensity with a deeper core of tangerines. Excellent.

2017 Château de Chamirey Mercurey La Mission monopole 1er, 31 Oct 2020. Cool icing, white tones and distant chalkiness dominate on nose. Layered with excellent concentration, yet agile and delicate with a highly refined smooth rounded intensity, yielding greater detail with further notes of jackfruit and pineapples. Excellent. One of the best buys ever. (M).

2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru, 31 Oct 2020. Darkish. Mulberries, raspberries and minty hues dominate with lovely lift, matched by a warm fleshy fullness that exuded a delicate soft rosy intensity from the fine acidity and ripeness of fruit, finishing well with excellent mouthfeel. Still youthful.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau Volnay Santenots 1er, 31 Oct 2020. Rather opaque and shy though one discerns good volume of dark fruits beneath. Medium-bodied. Rather acidic at first before fleshing out with greater presence of fruit and better balance with a bit of gritty intensity. Drinking well and I don’t think it ought to be cellared further.

2000 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, 31 Oct 2020. Deep garnet core, exuding a classic earthy plummy glow. Rather full, displaying very fine depth of ripe black berries and currants tinged with a dash of earth and leafy characters that added to the developing complexity, caressing the palate with lovely suppleness and smooth rounded tannins. Excellent. (M).

1987 Vega Sicilia Unico, 31 Oct 2020. Dark. Deeply aromatic, effusive in deep plummy tones with a suggestion of smoke and medicinal powder. Supple concentration and intensity, imbued with tangerines and mocha at the core, structured with rounded tannins. Doesn’t quite possess that special dimension of the best Unicos but this is certainly drinking well, and still relatively youthful.

1989 Château Suduiraut, 31 Oct 2020. Deep golden lustre. Great lift of luscious dense fruit laden with diesel characters though the medium-bodied palate is open with notes of caramelised fruit, apricot and nectarines, still laced with very fine acidity. Excellent. (M).

2002 Domaine Follin Arbelet Corton Grand Cru, 31 Oct 2020. Deep ruby, proffering a smooth gentle fragrance, layered with red fruits and darkish characters that impart excellent concentration and presence with detailed biting tannins though it is all subtle enough without any of the burliness occasional encountered from this grand cru. (M).

Our select group of five met again at Buona Terra, Singapore, on 27 October 2020 to welcome LF back from his onerous duties at a distant sultanate. A Montrachet had been promised while the rest of us dug deep to bring stuff that is less commonly encountered. The line-up turned out to be quite outstanding and with Gabriele Rizzardi and his team on hand to look after us, we were set for a great evening.

2005 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of LF. Highly aromatic whiffs of perfumed fragrance hinting at pink roses and haw over some earthy darkish tones, possessing a lovely rounded presence with an emerging crystalline quality underscored by minerally intensity of understated depth, finishing with good length. Excellent.

1994 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet Grand Cru, a half bottle courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind but still easily recognisable as the Holy Grail of whites. Luminous gold, exuding a classic restrained nose of white tones and distant minerals with a lovely creamy smoothness, its warm velvety fruit teasing the palate with a rounded fleeting intensity before finishing with superb linearity and lingering length. Supremely confident and refined, utterly seamless in every way even as it went on to develop expansive swathes of white floral tones with wonderful flair and balance. Outstanding.

2018 Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Jardin du Calvaire, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Pale. Nutmeg and wet grassy elements on the nose, somewhat reductive, whilst the palate is reminiscent of green fruits and longans tinged with a bit of sweetness, rounded but slightly forward, imbued with very fine acidity but short. Very hard to place; I thought it might even be New World.

1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Considerably heavier tint that suggested a mature wine, proffering a delicate bouquet of brioche with a hint of earthiness that led to secondary characters with chromatic white tones on the medium-bodied palate, still imbued with very fine acidity though distinctly short at the finish.

2010 Kistler Durell Vineyard Chardonnay, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Clear golden. Took some time in the glass to put on weight, fleshing out with a classic Puligny-like chalkiness and white tones with excellent acidity and intensity, so much so that I was convinced it was a Puligny-Montrachet.

2002 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto, courtesy of Vic. Tasted blind. Dark evolved purple. Dark fruits and currants dominate with a hint of vanillin. Medium-bodied. Superbly lush and supple, exuding fine intensity with excellent inner detail, imparting a plush velvety feel that spelt 100% merlot. I nailed it, though I’d thought it to be the 1997. Excellent.

1998 Château La Gomerie. Dark crimson. Pronounced minty tones, dark fruits and earth along with some bell pepper on the nose. Medium-bodied. Highly supple with a distinct minerally tone, still coiled with some tight intensity within its depths though it eventually mellowed in the glass to reveal highly-refined tannins, caressing the palate with a fair degree of lushness. May not actually have peaked. Also a 100% merlot, but there seems to be more structure to it than the Masseto. This is its fourth vintage since the inaugural 1995 but this 2.5 ha plot has since been reabsorbed back into Beau-Séjour Bécot after its final vintage of 2011.

1989 Château Angelus, courtesy of Kieron. Tasted blind. Still rather dark, exuding an attractive earthy pungency amid overtones of green capsicum. Medium-bodied, imbued with abundant dark currants and ripe berries that impart a lovely feminine fleshiness with a highly supple mouthfeel, yielding fine definition with a hint of succulence, becoming more relaxed and understated with a hint of dry medicinal powder as it sat in the glass. Still remarkably fresh. Absolutely on song. Several thought it to be Left Bank though I thought it to be a mature Pomerol.

1961 Château L’Eglise-Clinet, courtesy of LF. Still displaying a deep dark crimson, this wine opens with a certain minty glow of licorice and cedar that recalled pipagao, imbued with good concentration of mature fruit tinged with sweetness that is still amazingly fresh. Rather placid with fine transparency at first before gaining in weight and layering, becoming more port-like but in the best sense. Still has the legs to carry on. Wonderful stuff.

A leisurely evening on 21 October 2020 at La Strada, Singapore, on a theme of Vosne-Romanée 1er or grand cru hosted by Timothy Goh where all wines were blinded and served in random order by the maitre’d. We were on good form, for each of us could identify our own wines while picking out the correct plots most of the time. Many thanks for dinner, Tim, and to everyone for your contributions.

2018 Pieropan Soave Classico, courtesy of Tim. Gentle fresh morning dew and floral elements on the nose tinged with a trace of sweetness. Light crystalline clarity, showing clean acidity with good detail, finishing in a minty glow with a touch of salinity.

2016 Aubert Chardonnay, courtesy of Kieron. This wine opens with a lovely complex of citrus, floral tones, some nutmeg and emerging pineapples, fairly vigorous, while a cool velvety creaminess coats the palate with a light sheen of paraffin and distant green fruits, displaying excellent intensity though understated on the whole with lovely restraint. I was spot-on with my guess.

2016 Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg Grand Cru, courtesy of Tim. Very dark. Clearly youthful, brimming with intense red fruits and currants though shy and elusive at first, becoming a bit more plummy later on the nose. Medium-full, displaying excellent ripeness with clean definition and sleek acidity. Very well balanced and proportioned, revealing a deeper vein of dark fruit that conferred subtle weight. Masculine yet elegant.

2014 Domaine Prieuré-Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er. Bright crimson, looking misleadingly mature based on colour alone. Distinctly feminine on the nose, quite effusive in delicious sweet cherries and red fruits with further notes of plums and haw followed by an earthy tinge. Medium-full. Fleshy with fair intensity and striking acidity that conferred sharp definition though the fruit is rather restrained within a narrow spectrum. Became utterly seamless by the end of dinner, developing a lovely layered fluidity though clearly not the opulent sort. Tim got it right.

2002 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er, courtesy of Andre. Beautiful clear ruby. Dark raspberries dominate on the nose though a hint of varnish is discernible along with a tinge of ash. Rounded on the palate with excellent presence and depth with subtle sublime acidity though still rather tightly coiled, taking its time to shake off the glare of shiny minerals to reveal good purity and integration, finishing with good length and understated intensity. Still yet to peak.

2008 Domaine Forey Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots 1er, courtesy of Russ. Good colour. There is a sense of dry heated gravel on the nose amid red fruits and currants. Rather brightly lit on the medium-bodied palate, showing fine concentration with rounded suppleness, gaining greater intensity with a more forward balance after some time though it remained short. I guessed it right though another bottle tasted last month was richer and more opulent.

2011 Domaine de  Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Christiane 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint, exuding soft red fruits and rose petals with a dash of velvetiness amid overtones of varnish. Highly feminine on the medium-bodied palate, marked by remarkably rounded fruit that yielded soft inner detail with a light touch. Beautifully proportioned and balanced. Highly elegant and well-behaved, allowing the vintage to speak for itself. We were unanimous in calling it Aux Malconsorts, though the Christiane here from Montille is a slice that slips right into the southern end of La Tâche. Excellent.