Ric's Wine Journal

These notes stem from a FICOFI event at Forlino’s, One Fullerton Singapore, on 26 February 2018 with Pablo Alvarez in attendance. It was just as well that we did not drink any Vega Sicilia when we hosted Pablo to a private lunch the day before, for the lineup this evening was quite generous, offering a mini-vertical of successive vintages of the Unico as well as two bottlings of the Especial, which is seldom encountered. It goes without saying that Unico needs plenty of bottle age, two to three decades being the norm at least. Therefore, it’s not surprising these wines are still tight at this early stage though they certainly hold plenty of promise. Let them sleep.

1998 Dom Perignon P2. This Second Plenitude of D.P. displays green fruits, melons and pomelo with a dash of bitter lemon on the nose though shy at first, gradually yielding more yeasty tones and earthiness, opening up with fine depth, acidity and balance. Excellent.

2012 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena no.5. Made of 100% tempranillo, this wine showed an impenetrable deep dark inky red, proffering dark currants and raspberries on the nose, slightly forward in fruit intensity and balance, layered with excellent depth and detail of graphite minerals, dark chocolate and licorice with a certain raciness. Very fine. Consistent with a previous tasting in July 2017.

2004 Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena no.5. Equally deep in tint with just a hint of evolution, stuffed with dark fruits, raspberries and bright red plums with a prominent core of tangerines, fleshy and deft with open textures amidst early complexity though not showy at all. A study in understated elegance. This is a blend of 90% tempranillo with a sprinkling of merlot, highly consistent with a previous tasting in July 2017.

2007 Vega Sicilia Unico Riserva. Deep impenetrable red, proffering a darkish tone of mocha and licorice, slightly racy, densely layered with dark red fruits, excellent in ripeness and detail, underscored  by understated acidity and earthiness, structured with chewy tannns. More masculine now compared with previous tastings in July 2017 and 2015. Great potential.

2006 Vega Sicilia Unico Riserva. Unique bouquet, more of earth, toffee and mocha, open but narrower in profile on the medium-bodied palate. Quite seamless with gentle tones and sweet tannins that became more pronounced and accentuated over time but essentially primal, yet to develop further.

2005 Vega Sicilia Unico Riserva. This wine exudes a heady fragrance of dark cherries, red currants and cinnamon, displaying excellent presence and depth of glorious fruit with rounded velvety tannins, highly seamless in its impeccable balance between fruit and sublime acidity that combined to produce a superb mouthfeel of immense succulence. Absolutely delicious. No wonder Vega Sicilia took such a long time to release this beauty. Lots of great potential ahead. Consistent with a previous note in July 2017 when it was first released. Outstanding.

2017 Unico Riserva Especial. Very dark and essentially shut, though the palate is lit by dark roses and cherries with a lovely lift and depth, rather understated in acidity and intensity that exuded a gentle and elegant demeanour, finishing with a dash of earthiness. Plenty of promise here but yet to unfurl its true beauty.

2016 Unico Riserva Especial. More open than the preceding wine, proffering feminine tones of cherry blossom, dark roses and red currants, highly lifted, layered with gentle tones of mocha and licorice, displaying great fluidity and fine gritty detail with understated intensity, finishing well with a long minty glow. Excellent.

2005 Ch D’Yquem. Dense overtones of nectarine and apricot amidst an air of heavy petroleum fumes, displaying superb concentration of fruit that recalled smouldering ember and cider supported by firm stony minerals, culminating in a stern lengthy finish.

This is a superb event organised by FICOFI at Nicolas, Singapore, on 27 February 2018 at very short notice, presumably to take advantage of a whistle stop by Xavier Sanchez, Marketing Manager of the AXA Millesimes group of vineyards that include all the estates tasted this evening where the star, no doubt, belonged to Château Pichon Longueville Baron where three outstanding vintages each separated by five years were featured generously in double magnum format. And as if that wasn’t enough, a very fine 1957 (my second bottle in two months!) was offered as well. The food at Nicolas, as usual, never disappoints, ensuring that the wine pairing hits all the right notes. For me, the 2010 Pichon Baron would be the new 2000 while the S de Suduiraut, Petit Village and the Quinta do Noval Porto were all superb as well in their own right. An outstanding evening.

2016 S de Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes. Rich expressive palate preceded by overtones of dry grassy elements, hay and summer heat on the nose. Very good concentration and lovely intensity of white fruits with understated acidity, revealing fine detail with faint echoes of white pepper, tapering to a quiet finish. Great finesse and refinement throughout from this dry white of Sauternes. Excellent.

2014 Château Petit-Village, poured from double magnum. Subdued tones of earth, dark berries, black fruits and graphite. Medium-full. Sits quietly with fine concentration and intensity, framed by highly supply tannins that confer velvety textures, becoming more rounded, warm and open over time. Sexy stuff from a most unexpected source. Excellent.

2010 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, poured from double magnum. Aromas of dense black fruits and dark currants amidst graphite and ferrous minerals with traces of vanillin that produced a subdued masculine fragrance. Opened up very well with food to reveal great concentration of gloriously ripe fruit on the fleshy palate, superbly layered and integrated even at this very early stage, structured with highly supple mouth-puckering tannins that imparted sensational mouthfeel and intensity, underscored by understated acidity throughout its length. Still primal but already such a complete wine. Outstanding.

2005 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, poured from double magnum. Very dark, proffering dense earthy ferrous minerals on the nose. Just beginning to open up on the palate that is still generally tight, infinitely masculine with raw intensity of dark currants, relaxing a little more over time as it developed some degree of suppleness before receding into its minerally shell. Huge potential but awkward and somewhat unresolved at this stage. Give it time.

2000 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, poured from double magnum. Superb hue of deep purple, exuding a deep delicious glow of gloriously ripe dark berries, currants and black fruits amidst overtones of tobacco ember, producing excellent concentration with a gentle searing intensity on the palate, structured with ferrous minerals. Just beginning to hit its stride and will stay the course for decades. Absolutely on song. Superb.

1957 Château Pichon Longueville Baron. Light crimson. Still showing well with a lovely glow of peaches and plums amidst a great earthy pungency, still lively with great acidity, concentration and depth of fruit, utterly seamless, naturally structured and layered with good transparency that revealed its distilled essence of dried tobacco dried leaves, finishing with great length and suppleness. If only we can age just as well. Outstanding.

1997 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional. Very dark. Highly supple, possessing a great natural unforced quality with gentle depth and understated acidity, producing a lovely minty glow amidst light medicinal touches. Superb.

It was good again to catch up with M. Erwan Faiveley, seventh generation owner of this famous domaine, on his annual visit to Singapore at the Four Seasons on 26 March 2018 during a FICOFI event where there was a promenade of selected wines of 2016, followed by a sumptuous dinner paired with several back vintages. By now, most of the 2016 has been bottled although those that were tasted this evening are still barrel samples, as one can see from the corner of the labels. Re-visiting them re-affirmed my impression of the 2016s during my recent extensive tasting in the cellars of Faiveley last November. Certainly, the whites of this low-yielding vintage are excellent, displaying fine detail and precision while the grand cru reds are gorgeous, almost stunning in their succulence and structure. When a wine has the concentration, purity of fruit, great acidity, structure and balance right from the start, it cannot go wrong and that certainly holds true for the 2016 wines of Faiveley. Moving on, Erwan was especially excited about the 2017 still sitting in barrel, where it seems the whites are turning out to be exceptional although Erwan has advised that one will need to be selective about the 2017 reds.

2016 Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Lifted tones of sour plums and floral characters with lovely bloom, displaying superb expanse of fresh lime and citrus and cool rich vanilla icing, sporting excellent acidity, precision and linearity on the medium-full palate. Excellent.

2016 Domaine Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Grassy elements on the nose with overtones of nutmeg, exotic spice and a perfumed floral fragrance, displaying excellent fullness of citrus fruit with a hint of bitter lemon, all still rather tightly knit, not revealing much. There is no denying that this wine will eventually blossom very well but the Corton-Charlemagne is the one to drink now.

2016 Joseph Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges 1er. Darker tone and tint, more of earthy minerals and ripe raspberries on the nose, consistent with a high-toned minerally palate, showing good detail and structure, finishing with a persistent spicy glow. Not overdone. Faithful to its terroir, though the 2015 below is actually quite lush and opulent, something not usually associated with this commune.

2016 Domaine Faiveley Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru. Distilled pervasive essence of dark cherries and sweet dark roses, rounded and fleshy with excellent presence and fine acidity that is superbly integrated, very natural in feel, balance and proportion without trying too hard. Excellent.

2016 Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru. Rich abundance of ripe dark cherries and red currants that caressed the palate with creamy fullness and lovely raw intensity amidst earthy elements suffused with superb acidity, imparting a sense of velvety power. Excellent, and may be outstanding over time.

2016 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Corton Faiveley Grand Cru monopole. Generous aromas of red fruits, full-bodied yet gentle on the palate, displaying earthy minerals amidst the ripe fruit with superb precision, acidity and understated intensity that produced a lasting mouthfeel. Always a perennial favourite. Huge uncoiled potential.

There were more wines to be drunk at dinner (everyone was unanimous that the European cuisine served was outstanding) where it was clear that the 2013 whites can be rewarding even in their youth whilst the reds from the great vintages have stood the test of time. The last decade has seen Faiveley attaining the level of refinement, character and understanding of terroir that has, hitherto, been somewhat elusive.

2013 Domaine Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Complex deep bouquet of crisp citrus with a great lift that led to a medium-full high-toned minerally palate of ferrous elements and delicate citrus with fine seamless acidity, becoming crisper and more layered as it took on proper grip with emergent notes of creme de la creme. The 2013 whites appear to be evolving faster than either the great vintages of 2012 and 2014.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Generally shut, rather backward on the nose, proffering just gentle citrus whilst an abundance of white fruits dominate on the palate with fine understated acidity, superbly integrated, building up towards a lovely gentle intensity over time. Poised, elegant and unflustered. Usually more approachable than Bâtard-Montrachet, this further supports my view that one should drink the 2013s while waiting for the 2012 and 2014 to come around.

2013 Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Displaying some early evolution, this wine exudes a mild earthy pungency with a layered soft core of white fruits and tempered citrus that opened up well, tapering to a cool gentle finish. Drinking well, but the 2016 is superior in every way.

2015 Joseph Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges 1er. Deep color, proffering a glorious bouquet of early cinnamon and superb ripe fruit, highly inviting. Equally stunning on the open palate where the great concentration of fruit is layered with gorgeous acidity that added immeasurably to the fabulous mouthfeel, already showing some early inner detail, finishing with a trace of austerity. Makes the 2016 seem reductive.

2014 Domaine Faiveley Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru. Deep in color, showing just a faint whiff of earthy pungency with traces of graphite minerals though the palate is well layered with very fine acidity, definition and detail, displaying good linearity all the way to its glowing minty finish, becoming more delicate over time.

2010 Joseph Faiveley Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Most alluring in its bouquet of dark red fruits and dark roses amidst earthy tones, matched by a deeper streak sweet dark currants laced with sublime acidity, exuding lovely feminine fragrance, purity and elegance. Gorgeous, re-affirming what we already know about the 2010 Côte de Nuits: just buy everything.

1999 Joseph Faively Volnay Santenots 1er. Effusive in cedary tones with further notes of truffles coming on later, proffering a generous spread of succulent ripe dark berries layered with great acidity, excellent in refinement and complexity without any burliness or vegetal tones. For many, this was the wine of the night and the least expected. Great stuff.

2009 Domaine Faiveley Pommard Les Rugiens 1er. Dark tones of dark currants and berries pervade this wine, carrying excellent weight, acidity and concentration. Very fleshy, oozing with sweet supple tannins, never at all heavy, reminding us again why Les Rugiens is considered by many to be ripe for re-classification into grand cru.

Ever the generous soul that he is, CJ very kindly threw a grand dinner at Yan on 24 March 2018 for the usual suspects. This time, though, we knew the raison d’tre behind it. The manager Shek rose brilliantly to the occasion with the wine service while the restaurant has maintained its very high standard of cuisine. Contributed by people who know what they are drinking, the highly curated line-up was simply outstanding. Thank you everyone and especially to CJ; please do journey more to the east.

2006 Champagne Salon, courtesy of CJ. Luminous tint, exuding a lifted floral bloom with fine concentration of green fruits, lime and bitter lemon that shone through its dry textures with excellent clarity, possessing a deeper minerally vein with an emerging trace of early layering. Still tight. Highly consistent with my initial impression at its worldwide launch back in April 2017. Excellent now, but will be outstanding in time to come.

2008 Champagne Deutz, courtesy of Sanjay. Slightly heavier tint with a sharper nose of attractive yeasty pungency amidst traces of burnt. Expansive on the palate, its crisp citrus imparting good attack, concentration and intensity with further notes of creme and dark green fruits after some time, smooth with excellent linearity, distinctly more feminine over time, exuding lovely floral tones.

2004 Champagne Salon, courtesy of Sanjay. Compared with the 2006, this wine is more open and relaxed with a restrained quality though equally luminous, glowing with gentle yeasty tones on a palate of lush white citrus, nutmeg and stern minerals, just a tad dry with some early complexity coming on. Excellent.

2002 Piper Heidsieck Rare, courtesy of KG. This wine exudes pungent yeasty tones amidst a complex bouquet, quite superb, open and delicate enough on the dry finely detailed palate with further notes of snuff and high-toned citrus, slightly stern, that yielded some attractive gentle tension. Pretty consistent on the whole with a previous tasting note in Nov 2017. Excellent.

2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos du Mon Plaisir. Displaying a slightly evolved hue, this wine is rather reserved, proffering quiet gentle tones of aged crème with reserved intensity and understated acidity, quite minerally and delicate on the whole with traces of sweet as it tapered to a neat finish, revealing better inner detail over time. This is a wine that cannot be hurried on the table.

2004 Domaine du Comte Ligier-Belair Vosne-Romanee Aux Reignots 1er, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Well evolved, proffering a fine bouquet of plummy red fruits with gentle tones of earth and mint that preceded a fleshy core of tangy citrus, soft and rounded with very fine acidity, focus and weight, just a little short.

2005 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, courtesy of KG. Very correct in color and tone, generously effusive in dark cherries and dark roses, displaying superb balance, poise and elegance with excellent focus, definition and purity, opening up with deeper growing intensity over time, highly persistent in its complete finish. As good as the 2006 from the same producer that was tasted at this year’s La Paulée, if not better. A complete wine. Outstanding.

2014 Domaine Roger Belland Criot-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ. Shut on the nose though there is quite a bit going on on the minerally palate where grassy elements and cool icing dominate initially with a soft focus that eventually gained better definition as other characters of mint, white flowers and incense emerged. Plenty of potential here but this isn’t the right time to pop it.

2001 Domaine Remoissenet Pere er Fils Le Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Grace. Very relaxed feel. Layered with lovely concentration of fruit and minerals but somewhat reserved, developing well in the glass as it gained richer tones of creme, icing and complex minerals, very subtly layered. Excellent but not exceptional, missing the inner detail and ethereal delicacy of the best Montrachets. Highly similar in character to the Montrachet of Baron Thenard, which used to sell its Montrachet grapes to Remoissenet in the past (as stated on the label) before the former began bottling Montrachet on its own. Baron Thenard has the second largest holdings of Montrachet Grand Cru in two plots, all on the Chassagne side.

2002 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of John. Racy with an exciting deep streak of dark fruit and raspberries, ripe and fleshy with excellent concentration, slightly forward in balance, just managing to keep its raw intensity under control with matching sublime acidity that ensured lovely suppleness with a special lightness. Quite fabulous.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Great colour and purity that promised rose petals and bright cherries, wonderfully open with a fabulous richness that produced great intensity, depth and verve, impeccably balanced. This is a wine of utter elegance and sophistication. Still youthful but drinking fantastically well. What a superb treat for the senses!

1999 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of MH. Rather dark, as expected from this source. There was an initial whiff of faint cork taint that blew off quite quickly, thank goodness, to reveal notes of deep dark berries on the nose and open palate, infused with a deep core of tangy citrus that produced some understated intensity, still remarkably youthful and shy. Quite unlike usual extroverted character of Bonnes-Mares. Perhaps best to lay down a little further.

Larmandier-Bernier Rose 1er, courtesy of LF. Grapefruit and aged tangerines dominate on the bone-dry palate with scorching intensity. Needs to be washed down with food that is equally robust.

1961 Ch Gilette, courtesy of LF. Vinified in concrete vats and usually released many years (even decades!) post-vintage, this unique Sauternes displayed a hypnotic deep golden orangey colour with notes of aged apricot, nutmeg and balm on the nose and palate, still retaining fresh acidity and body, quite luscious, though the fruit is just beginning to recede a little. Still showing very well.

I was truly privileged to have been invited to a dinner on 22 March 2018 that was so exquisite in culinary taste and creation that it would easily have belonged to a multi-Michelin-starred establishment, except that it took place at home, prepared by the hostess herself. Paired with a short but excellent line-up of wines, not to mention yet another 1957 Ch Pichon Baron,  it was truly an evening to remember. The pictures do really say it all. Thank you very much for your kind generosity!

1995 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé. Dominant notes of grapefruit and peaches on the nose with a lovely lift, well replicated on the palate with additional notes of bitter lemon supported by stony saline minerals, rather dry, leading towards some degree of austerity at the finish.

2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er. Reticent with faint whiffs of white flowers on the nose. Quite minerally on the palate, showing cool tones of icing with traces of vanillin, very relaxed in feel. I’d expected more from this producer but the reserved demeanour is probably a function of the vintage which requires extended ageing.

1957 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Astonishingly, this is my third bottle of this particular wine in as many months, and the best of all three. Absolutely beautiful in its ruby brilliance and great purity of fruit, highly effusive in red plums and complex tangerines with a lovely lift while its entry on the palate is relaxed and gentle, its acidity still sublime amidst soft minerally textures, displaying good concentration, linearity and length. Perhaps neither quite as deep nor as complex as Pichon Baron from the best vintages but it’s freshness is amazing.

1996 Château Haut-Brion. Beautiful in color, glowing with dried mushrooms and herbs amidst a peppery bouquet, most lovely. Rounded and soft, tinged with camphor and exotic spices on the palate, fleshy with good detail, focus and linearity. Superbly balanced and relaxed, finishing with velvety svelte tannins. Excellent. Based on my recent experiences, the 1996 clarets, once so backward, have rounded the corner and are drinking superbly now.

Dr Ngoi threw a surprise dinner at Nicolas on 20 March 2018 that was paired entirely with an astounding vertical of Château d’Yquem. It transpired later that this dinner had been in the works for several months, inspired by a similar dinner back at Château d’Yquem itself last year attended by the man himself. With the help of Tsun-Yan, Peter, Winfred and Ted, a vertical had been carefully assembled while Grace worked with Nicolas to plan a menu that would match a whole evening of Sauternes. Tsun-Yan had also brought a pair of 2002 Dalle Valle Maya to pair with the delectable beef. All were poured from 750 mL bottles with the exception of the 2011 and 2001. Needless to say, it all panned out beautifully, proving that it is, indeed, possible to drink Sauternes throughout your meal. All the gleaming liquid gold on the table made us the envy of all the other guests at the restaurant. Thank you very much, Dr Ngoi, for your generosity and to everyone for your presence and wonderful contributions.

2006 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. Fresh clear crystalline tones, displaying fine body and excellent clarity, detailing white flowers in bloom with full presence of green fruits, eventually exuding lovely earthy tones with an yeasty pungency whilst developing further dry gentle intensity. Excellent.

2011 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Winfred. From a pair of half bottles. Superb bouquet of dry intense nectarine and paraffin, very lovely detail in its intoxicating aroma. Smooth and luscious with excellent layering and depth, displaying great freshness, balance and superb refinement, yet almost delicate. Outstanding.

2001 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Peter Tan. From a pair of half bottles. Considerably evolved with a deep golden hue, heavier in tint and tone. Resinous with great lifted notes of honey and apricot whilst stony minerals and medicinal tones dominate on the palate at first, gradually growing in majestic breadth and regal nobility as the rich concentration of glorious fruit took on its grip, becoming stunningly complex on the bouquet which never ceased developing throughout the whole evening, proffering further notes of dried flowers and malt. I’d imagine this wine would be developing at a slower pace if tasted from 750 ml bottles. A complete Sauternes. My wine of the night.

2008 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Winfred. Lovely rounded bouquet of honey and rock melons, the fruit and acidity producing a peculiar peek-a-boo teasing intensity on the palate before gradually gaining weight though it still came across as slightly veiled and a tad gruff with overtones of the wilderness.

2005 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Ted. Quite subtle on the nose, actually restrained. Rather understated in acidity and richness on the palate, allowing the full concentration of nectarine to take on some deftness. A tad pensive on the whole compared with numerous previous tastings at FICOFI functions. Is it receding into its shell?

1996 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Peter Tan. Well evolved, offering apricot and cinnamon on the nose. Medium-bodied, not heavy at all, displaying good delicacy with characters of spice and orange peel, turning a bit stern towards the short finish with overtones of graphite.

1989 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Tsun-Yan. Dull golden hue though the palate sees lush luscious nectarine with superb acidity and fluidity that produced a certain lightness, distinctly feminine as it flowed to a long glowing finish marked by overtones of ash. Excellent.

1988 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Tsun-Yan. Drunk side-by-side with the above, the 1988 is just a shade heavier in tone, carrying more weight with lovely tones of tangerines and mandarins, fairly rich in texture though the 1989 is distinctly fresher.

1992 Dalle Valle Maya, courtesy of Tsun-Yan. Deep impenetrable red, exuding a high-toned minerally bouquet with overtones of vanillin amidst a powerful earthy pungency, almost hedonistic. Open with surprising lightness on the palate, displaying a spectrum of flavours savoury tones, mint, spicy black pepper, dry mushrooms and herbs, its acidity and tannins leaving behind a mouth-puckering sensation long after its finish. The only gripe is the relative lack of fruit to match the supporting structure, for this wine could certainly do with greater fullness and depth.

1957 Château d’Yquem, sourced directly from the château by Dr Ngoi. Only one of three bottles remaining, it seems. I have never seen a Sauternes looking so dark that it’s almost unrecognisable. Nevertheless, this wine is amazingly fresh on the nose, throwing up notes of fruitcake, old honey and caramel, displaying good lift with traces of gun smoke, still imbued with fresh acidity that imparted fine presence on the palate although the fruit has receded quite a bit, characterised by toffee and burnt orange. Still holding on, ageing gracefully but clearly past its prime. Still, what a privilege to have tasted it!

Following an extensive promenade of outstanding wines (2001 Comte de Vogüé Musigny, 2012 Aubert, inter alia…see post in Nov 2017) at his clinic opening on 08 Nov 2017 attended even by Iggy himself, Kieron ushered us to Imperial Treasure Peking Super Duck at Paragon to continue the wining and dining, this time on a theme of Pomerol. We ought to have been properly hammered by the time we staggered over but, surprisingly, everyone was still on form. The line-up certainly did not disappoint and every drop was polished off. Pomerol is tight, dense and stern in its youth but offers a truly outstanding experience after more than twenty years in bottle, as one can see below. Thank you very much, Kieron.

2004 Château L’Evangile, courtesy of Pipin. Deep crimson with some brightening at the rim, displaying good depth of dark cherries and redcurrants honed by a high-toned acidity that created lovely tension across the minerally palate, finishing on an austere note, yet to develop true secondary nuances. Excellent.

1999 Château L’Evangile, still showing a deep crimson with some evolution. Highly reticent, not showing much on the nose and palate where the fruit is set rather backward, dominated more by firm acidity and earthy minerals that imparted a stern minty finish.

1998 Château L’Evangile, courtesy of David Tan. Great color, exuding lovely Chinese herbal notes, tea leaves and dried mushrooms with complex earthy tones that leapt out of the glass. Open and fleshy with superb concentration of dark fruits and currants, finishing with ferrous minerals amidst fine acidity and intensity. Excellent, and yet to peak.

1995 Château L’Evangile, courtesy of  Dr Ngoi. Deep red with a lovely bloom of fragrant red fruits and dark cherries. Soft, fleshy and seamless with subtle nuances, showing good delineation but short.

1986 Château Lafleur, courtesy of Vic. Obviously well evolved but still showing a beautiful deep red with an equally beguiling bouquet of lovely floral fragrance, still imbued with a superb presence of deep dark berries and dark cherries, displaying great acidity and fullness amidst complex minerals, very subtly structured, developing an attractive earthy pungency over time but a tad short at the finish. Quite outstanding.

2000 Vieux Château Certan, courtesy of Andre. Dark red, exuding a deep lovely fragrance of dark cherries and currants, soft and open with excellent concentration and acidity, seamlessly integrated with further emerging notes of soy. Developing well, just a tad short. Excellent.

1997 Vieux Château Certan, courtesy of Hiok. Glorious crimson with a lovely nose of red cherries, fleshy with good presence though the fruit is a little recessed with more acidity at the fore.

1989 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of LF. Well evolved with a bouquet of lovely sweet fragrance, displaying excellent depth of ripe dark berries with gentle silky smooth tannins and fine acidity, utterly seamless, showing great focus, turning more minerally over time as the fruit receded. Still holding on well.

1989 Château Clinet, courtesy of David Ong. Drunk rather quickly after a brief aeration, this wine exuded a deep fragrance of predominant red fruits, open with a deep core of understated tangerines and complexity, displaying gorgeous acidity that is seamlessly integrated with silky velvety tannins, tapering towards a cool quiet finish. Excellent.

1995 Château Pétrus, courtesy of Kieron. Displaying a beautiful deep ruby, this wine exuded a great lift of hot stones with a suggestion of great clayey minerality, rounded and open with a distilled presence of dark fruits and blueberries of superb depth and richness, thoroughly seamless between the intensity of fruit and sublime acidity, finishing with excellent linearity. Thoroughly outstanding.

1972 Château Pétrus, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Distinctly evolved, this wine exuded quite a lovely fragrance of camphor and gentle red fruits amidst delicate notes of nectarine, almost ethereal upon its gentle entry onto the palate where there is still good concentration of fruit, still remarkably fresh in acidity with tannins that have long melted. Excellent.

2015 Domaine Roulet L’Etoile (courtesy of The Vintage Club) popped and poured at Ming Kee Live Seafood, Feb 9, 2018. Not to be confused with the much sought-after Domaine Roulot of Meursault, this wine offers generous tones of chalk, crème and green fruits with good concentration and presence, developing some earthiness with minerally tones after some time, becoming more transparent though, essentially, this is a straightforward wine.

2007 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino, popped and poured at Osteria Art, Feb 10, 2018. Vermilion, proffering bright red fruits, plums and dark currants on the nose, ripe and fleshy on the palate with well-integrated chewy tannins, displaying good concentration and detail, developing some gentle intensity over time as it built towards a long glowing spicy finish. Quite excellent.

2001 Ch Cos D’Estournel, decanted on-site at Bedrock Bar & Grill, Feb 12, 2018. Deep inky black. Restraint at first, though its layers of rich black fruits, black currants and dark plums are evident, opening up eventually to reveal superb depth and layering amidst subtle acidity, framed by delicious sweet tightly-knit supple tannins supported by a cedary floor, almost savoury with growing intensity, finishing with a dark minty glow. Superb but still yet to peak. From a half dozen imported from Bordeaux Index London.

2012 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Fine Teochew Cuisine, 14 Feb 2018. Dark purple, exuding heavier tones of dark plums, raspberries and dark wild berries amidst earthy textures and dusty tannins, showing very good concentration and structure, just slightly gruff in character. Needs further cellaring.

2004 Domaine Paul Aine Jaboulet Chevalier de Sterimberg, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, Feb 15, 2018. Aged crème, icing and recessed chalky notes with earthy minerals on the nose, quite rich, lighting up the palate with a gleaming tone, showing good concentration, fine intensity and detail with good transparency amidst overtones of paraffin, producing an unique lift at its dry glowing persistent finish. Rhone whites are value buys. Excellent.

2010 Chateau du Moulin, at the family Reunion Dinner on the eve of Lunar New Year, Feb 15, 2018. This wine from Puisseguin, Saint-Emilion, possesses ripe dark berries with traces of burnt amidst overtones of cedar, wood and undergrowth. Agreeable but unremarkable.

2012 Merryvale cabernet sauvignon (courtesy of the late Jenny Tan Bin Hwee), Feb 16, 2018 over dinner with the family on Lunar New Year. Deep purple. Rich in ripe black fruits and dark currants on the nose and palate, layered with understated intensity, just a shade forward in balance which actually works very well for this Californian. Very fine.

2006 Ch Malartic Lagraviere, popped and poured at Gattopardo, Feb 19, 2018. Dark delicious aromas of cedar, dark currants and ripe berries. Open, rounded and fleshy with fine acidity and subdued minerals, hinting at tea leaves with a bit of dark plums amidst earthy textures and very fine gritty tannins, revealing some early complexity. Excellent.

2009 Domaine des Comte Lafon Meursault Genevriere 1er (courtesy of Roger Lum), popped and poured after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Great World, Feb 21, 2018. Superb generous bouquet of crystalline minerals, creme and chalky notes, matched by wonderful depth of fruit and layering on the palate amidst gentle saline tones and understated intensity that produced a most lovely bloom, finishing with a powerful glow of stony minerals that lingered with great persistence long after the finish. Utterly sophisticated. Outstanding.

2006 Domaine Anne Gros Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui (courtesy of Fatty) poured after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Great World, Feb 21, 2018. Darkish with some evolution, this wine exuded a delicious ripe bouquet of predominant dark fruits and berries, quite racy in its focused intensity, tightly structured with attractive sweet tannins, revealing some emerging complexity as it drew to a lengthy spicy glowing finish. Superb.

2007 Domaine Pierre Amiot Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, poured after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Great World, Feb 21, 2018. The bouquet here is most attractive where deep delicious notes of camphor, rose petals and strawberries dominate. Somewhat narrow on the palate at first but it eventually opened up well with good purity of bright red fruits amidst dominant saline tones though lacking true depth, finishing with traces of graphite.

2010 Lucien Le Moine Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (courtesy of Alvin Seah), poured after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Great World, Feb 21, 2018. Delicious, proffering generous aromas of dark cherries and dark currants, slightly earthy with overtones of paraffin, excellent in presence and acidity with some early development, turning brighter in tone over time as it opened up to reveal excellent depth and layering with predominant saline minerals emerging.

2009 Domaine Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes 1er (courtesy of Fatty), poured after some aeration at Imperial Treasure Great World, Feb 21, 2018. Very correct in pinot tint with a lovely soft core of red fruits and tangerines amidst earthy textures topped with gentle ferrous minerals, still rather tightly coiled as it caressed the palate with gentle raw intensity.

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Full-bodies, dry with abundant lime, pomelo and bitter lemon, displaying good lift and bloom.

2008 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Shy. More minerally on both nose and palate, proffering high crystalline tones with recessed notes of tropical fruits, displaying good presence and balance with early complexity amidst stony minerals and traces paraffin, tight towards the finish with fine intensity.

2009 Kistler Sonoma Coast Kistler Vineyard (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Classic New World bouquet of gentle paraffin and icing with a hint of cinnamon and skins, showing good presence and layering with transparent textures amidst overtones of tropical fruit though without true depth.

2004 David Duband Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. In spite of its opaque dirty red, this village is simply quite effusive its feminine fragrance of rose petals, showing great fluidity and acidity from a fine presence of dark cherries and earthy minerals, still tightly coiled. Could do with better resolution.

2007 Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques 1er (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Probably the most restrained of all the five producers of Clos-St-Jacques, this wine is undoubtedly feminine in poise and elegance, though somewhat darkish in colour and tone imparted by the ripe dark fruit, displaying fair intensity but missing in detail and opulence.

2009 Kistler Sonoma Coast Kistler Vineyard Pinot Noir (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Dark deep colour, notably heavier on the palate with a rich tone of ripe dark berries and currants, structured with masculine firm tannins that produced some lovely biting intensity.

2005 Ch Pichon Baron Longueville (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. This wine possesses an abundance of ripe dark berries that proffered lifted aromas of dark currants with superb depth of fruit, carrying lithe supple tannins that teased the palate with focused detail amidst earthy tarry tones, glowing with sublime acidity and fine intensity throughout its length. Quite outstanding.

2013 Peter Michael L’Esprit Des Pavots (courtesy of LF), tasted 23 Feb 2018 at SS ENT. Dark deep purple. Medium-full, rounded with ripe sweet berries and attractive earthiness amidst some vegetal trace. Caught at an awkward stage.

2015 Domaine de Montille Saint Romain, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 23 Feb 2018. This wine opened with tentative notes of nutmeg and ginger before unfurling its full canvas of exotic fruit, melons, green fruits and understated minerals with stupendous detail and transparency. Keen finish. Superb value!

1976 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, tasted at Daniel Tan’s residence, 25 Feb 2018. Dark in colour with some mild bottle stink amidst some vegetal trace that is a classic hallmark of this estate, still retaining good concentration and acidity, clearing up after some time to reveal notes of cedar, old leather and heated stones with a plummy glow.

1995 Ch Leoville Barton, tasted at Daniel Tan’s residence, 25 Feb 2018. Deep color. Accents of Chinese tea leaves, earth and mushrooms on the nose, undeniably attractive, quite bold and forward in its excellent concentration of dark fruit. Rounded, open and supple with dry textures, just a tad short.

Nuits-Saint-Georges is a bit of an ugly duckling within the Cote-de-Nuits. Bereft of grand cru climats and sandwiched between the kings of Vosne-Romanee to the north and the celebrated whites of the Cote-de-Beaune not far off in the south, this appellation is unfairly overlooked. This is all the better for wine lovers, for there are true gems to be found if one knows where to look, evident from a tasting organised by FICOFI on 08 March 2018 at the Four Seasons, Singapore. Far from being nondescript, I found these wines to be highly attractive, imbued with very fine pinot character and purity whilst rooted to its Nuits-Saint-Georges terroir which imparts its own unique imprint. Enjoy.

2015 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges La Perriere 1er. Made from 100% pinot blanc, this unusual white possesses a rich bouquet of ripe bananas, white flowers and intense tropical fruits with traces of morning dew amidst some nutty characters, coming together with explosive impact on the palate with its rich tension amidst superb intensity of fruit, icing and understated crème de la crème, rounded with great elegance and linearity. Outstanding and, naturally, very limited in quantity. I bought some.

2015 Joseph Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint Georges 1er. Lovely hue of ruby, exuding delicious bright rosy characters of ripe cherries, rounded and fleshy with good concentration and presence, displaying great acidity amidst some characteristic earthiness, quite seamless, finishing well.

2011 Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges Proces 1er. Quietly poised on the nose with the glow of deep dark cherries on the approach along with some camphor. Highly poised as well on the medium-full palate, displaying excellent presence and purity with a deep intensity of fruit framed by supple tannins. Excellent.

1995 Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges Ronciere 1er. Poured from magnum. Given its age, this wine is expectedly more evolved, supple and fleshy with advanced characters of cedar, earth, light licorice with a hint of sulphur, showing fine intensity with understated acidity, finishing well.

2012 Domaine Hudelot Noellat Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas de Combes. Don’t let this village fool you. From its very correct pinot tint to its great bouquet of red fruits that foreshadowed its great allure, expanse and purity, this wine defines burgundy by example, highly refined and elegant with everything held in proportion without being showy. Outstanding.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillieres 1er. Slightly opague with notes of dry malt and recessed dark fruits and currants on the nose, though compensated by a lovely palatal lift that exuded excellent freshness with an attractive deftness coming from its sublime acidity. Difficult to source and expensive.

1999 Domaine Prieure-Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Corvees 1er. This monopole is distinctly evolved, displaying good depth of ripe dark fruits and wild berries with gentle medicinal tones framed by sweet tannins, medium-full, slightly dense in its textures. Very fine.

It is always a big thing for us whenever Pablo Alvarez of Bodegas Vega Sicilia steps into Singapore. The big man hardly says much during meals, even with friends and close acquaintances, but it is clear that this is a man with a big heart. Who else would go to the extent of arranging lunch for you at Etxebarri (normally impossible to obtain), supply all the wines to go with your lunch (including a 2005 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Montrachet Grand Cru) and paying for lunch as well without himself being there?? Therefore, whenever Pablo arrives on our shores, Dr Ngoi makes it a point to push the boat out and spend time with a dear friend. Fresh off the plane from London on 25 Feb 2018, Pablo was ushered to Garibaldi for lunch, where Roberto had specially customised a menu loaded with caviar to go with all the wine brought by Dr Ngoi, including a pair of 1996 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache Grand Cru generously contributed by Simon Cheong. For once, we did not drink any Vega Sicilia in the presence of Pablo. Sometimes, the man himself needs a break. What a lovely way to spend a glorious long Sunday afternoon.

2004 Dom Perignon. Gentle creamy textures, lime and green melons dominate on the full palate, excellent in concentration, weight and intensity with superb detail and fine bubbles, delicious with understated acidity. One could go on sipping flute after flute.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dent de Chien 1er. Shut initially on the nose though the palate is suffused with mild salinity from the dominant minerally  tone amidst sophisticated creamy textures, quite excellent in concentration, eventually developing a cool glowing icy tone with good linearity all the way to its lengthy finish. Huge uncoiled potential.

2009 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de L’enfant Jesus 1er. Compared with a previous tasting last year, this wine appears slightly heavier in tint with a darker tone of dark roses and currants though its aromas are still undeniably lovely with a feminine attractiveness, displaying good concentration and purity on the palate with an even tone.

2009 Domaine Francois Larmande La Grand Rue Grand Cru. One of nine monopole grand cru of all Burgundy, this wine displayed a darker pinot tint, imbued with a weighty tone of fresh red fruits and dark cherries that exudes a great floral fragrance, layered with gorgeous acidity and early nuances with a mild earthy tone, its excellent concentration of fruit framed by supple tannins. Almost sublime.

2001 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize Leroy) Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers, courtesy of Ellen Wu. Rather deep in colour and tone, displaying some emerging complexity at this stage with exotic tonal flavours and notes of nutmeg, rich in layering supported by stony minerals but lacking in structure. Very fine, nonetheless.

2011 Domaine Prieure-Roch Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots PURE 1er, poured from magnum that had been aired in bottle overnight. Showing an opague dusty red, this wine displays good complexity of dark plums and dark rose petals amidst earthy tones and gentle saline minerals that is almost rustic in its unadulterated reflection of terroir, seamlessly integrated between its excellent tonal presence and understated acidity, just a tad short. A true connoisseur’s wine, Prieure-Roch may be off-putting to those who are new to Yannick Champ’s uncompromising approach. Excellent.

1996 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache Grand Cru, courtesy of Simon Cheong, poured from a pair. Well evolved in colour, this wine exudes a powerful glow of aged red fruits, plums and currants with a deep core of tangerines amidst a great swathe of classic saline minerality with excellent concentration of fruit on the palate, brimming with gentle exuberance while its seamless acidity imparted great suppleness and freshness to its understated structure, finishing with minty overtones. Wonderful, and will hold for many more years. Thanks, Simon!!

2010 Ch Rieussec. Quiet tones of nectarine and apricot on the nose, quite placid on the palate with lovely glow and excellent presence, highly subtle in its nuances, finishing with an attractive afterglow that lingered. Excellent.