Ric's Wine Journal

When I received an invitation from Simon Cheong, the name behind SC Global, to a casual dinner on 03 August 2017 at The Marq on Paterson Hill, Singapore, I knew it would be anything but ordinary. If you’ve had the chance to meet Simon, you wouldn’t have guessed that beneath his generosity, humility and genuine warmth lay a relentless ambition to produce the very best in luxury real estate projects that has propelled SC Global, a true home-grown Singaporean brand, into international recognition. Its flagship enterprise, The Marq, defines the design language and lifestyle philosophy that SC Global stands for. Comprising only 66 units within twin towers of 24 storeys set within lush and sprawling grounds atop the gentle mound of Paterson Hill, the dinner I attended took place at its show apartment on the 21st floor of the Signature Tower (the other being the Premier Tower).

When I arrived, the concierge was already expecting me and I was ushered to the elevator which I found myself sharing with the great Mr Oei Hong Leong, who was also headed for the same destination. As I stepped in, I found myself in a beautiful 6000 sq ft apartment occupying the entire floor. Double volume ceilings of 6.5 metres adorn each hall, exuding acres of space and airiness typically found only in good-class bungalows. Extruding externally into open space is your very own 15-metre lap pool (ending in an outdoor jacuzzi) cantilevered over the skyline of Orchard Boulevard, flanked on one side by a wooden sundeck while infinity awaits you at the other edge, thankfully guarded by a glass panel just enough to stop you from swimming off the edge in your drunken state. The whole apartment has been carefully anointed in tasteful modern décor by The French House of Hermés with every amenity imaginable for ultra-luxurious living: exquisite chandelier for the dining area, kitchen designed and equipped by Miéle (with the help of Chan Soo Khian, another Singaporean talent also responsible for the Soori Resort, Bali), spacious rooms, the master room especially inviting, complete with an unparalleled 360-degree panorama and concierge service to take care of your every need. In short, it’s everything a GCB has, and more, all laid out within an ultra-luxurious apartment. I caught sight of a violoncello standing at a corner of the living area. As if he’d read my mind, Simon came over saying it doesn’t belong to Yo-Yo Ma although the famous cellist had, in fact, performed some Bach inside this very apartment itself on his Stradivarius. Now that’s really something!! As we relaxed in the luxurious soothing ambience of this beautiful masterpiece in designer living, soaking in the majestic panorama enhanced by a pair of Wilson Alexia speakers (powered by Krell monoblocs, of course) that produced sounds of unforced clarity and natural balance, I found that Kok Hong had slipped me a glass of 2003 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé. Dull orange, this champagne exuded mild aromas of grapefruit, honeysuckle and aged mandarins, equally gentle on its entry, infinitely soft and feminine, opening up with great clarity and detail coupled with a stern minerally streak without the usual extreme dryness that usually accompanies rosé champagne. Very fine. I congratulated Kok Hong for being the sommelier of choice not only for FICOFI, but for some of the most powerful market movers in Singapore as well, for the small group of guests that Simon had invited were not only his close buddies; their names also read like a Who’s Who.

For this evening, Simon had arranged for a private chef, along with a team of requisite wait-staff, to prepare a delectable 5-course Chinese dinner from the apartment’s kitchen, proving that the Miele-equipped facility meets professional standards. The wines were supervised by Dr Ngoi, focusing on quality without sacrificing quantity, generously supplied by himself and Simon. My eyes almost popped when I saw the line-up; certainly only the most refined choices will suffice for such refinement in company and setting! We began with the solitary white of the evening, a 2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, poured from magnum. Proffering a deep exuberant bouquet of white flowers, brioche and creme de la crème with some early complexity, this wine was surprisingly gentle in spite of its beautiful concentration, acidity and depth supported by recessed limestone minerals, quite expansive at the finish with further notes of nutmeg and exotic spices. Very lovely.

The twin pair of reds that followed, hailing from the same estate and vintage, were drunk simultaneously, allowing one to focus purely on the element of terroir. The 1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échézeaux Grand Cru (poured from a pair) showed a dull opague purple, proffering distinct elements of tangerines with a hint of lime on the nose and its core, medium-bodied, open and utterly seamless at this stage with recessed red fruits and plums, quite feminine, still retaining good acidity and tension but a tad short. Clearly at full maturity and will not improve further. In comparison, the 1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (poured from a pair) also showed a dull purple but with a stronger hue, again with that distinct note of well-defined tangerines amidst red fruits that appears to be the signature tone of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, displaying more depth and focus and expression with delicious blackberries and redcurrants, slightly distant, utterly seamless between its fruit, acidity and smooth recessed tannins. Distinctly feminine. Like the preceding Échézeaux, this wine has been caught at full maturity and will not improve further.

Simon had also squeezed in a magnum of 2014 The Otazu Bond as a mystery wine, served blind. As I have alluded to last month, this is a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 25% tempranillo blended by yours truly (with two other FICOFI brothers) when we visited Bodega Otazu last year, limited to only 150 magnums, the fruit derived from the best of Otazu’s D.O.P. parcels and aged for 18 months in French barrels. Following our initial experience when we’d found the wine to be somewhat awkward, Simon had it decanted for 48 hours. That’s right! It paid off handsomely this time, the wine snapping into sharp focus, structured with understated tannins and well-integrated acidity amidst an abundance of blackberries and dark currants, fleshed out by the substantial tempranillo and merlot that added layering and early detail, drinking well. While its Spanish character was evident, it held its own very well against the exalted line-up, so much so that all were in agreement that this wine held great potential.

Then came the pièce de résistance, a magnum of 1990 Château Pétrus courtesy of Oei Hong Leong, famous for his hoards of Ch Pétrus of which 1990 is his favourite. Displaying a deep garnet red, this wine threw up an initial tinge of brett that, thankfully, blew off very quickly, exuding earthy tones with a great concentration of dark currants, rich black fruits and soy-like characters, slightly dryish but fleshy, imbued with sublime acidity and lush presence, still very fresh, imparting an exciting opulence with lovely tension and earthy pungency, just a tad stern from ferrous elements at its minerally finish. Drinking superbly by any standards, considering that it was literally popped and poured. Truly outstanding.

To close the evening, we had a 1998 Château d’Yquem, exuding complex aromas of apricot and nectarine shrouded within a thin veil of paraffin, dense and opulent, richly layered with controlled intensity. Excellent but still youthful, bringing the evening to a most satisfying and memorable conclusion. The Marq has truly lived up to its lofty promise that, nevertheless, wouldn’t have been possible without people who appreciate good company and Simon’s vision of the finest things in life. What can I do to improve The Marq? I can’t think of anything else, except that I’d install a classy turntable like a limited edition gold–plated Michell Gyro Dec with SME V tonearm. Yes, Simon…I know the Cipher CD player is great, but a turntable is truly for discerning connoisseurs, as is The Marq. Please visit http://www.themarq.com.sg or call +65 61002323 should you feel a sudden urge to live there.

Thank you once again, Simon.

Parkway Hospitals organised a lovely evening of Bordeaux tasting and dinner at the Grand Hyatt, Singapore, on 21 July 2017, co-hosted by Wine Clique, that featured the wines of châteaux Phelan Segur, Ferriere, La Dominique, Olivier & Grand-Puy-Lacoste. The event was made even more meaningful by the presence of the respective Bordelaise from each of these estates to explain about their wines and winemaking philosophy. Mlle Emeline Borie of GPL was surprised to learn that I had met her father, Francois-Xavier Borie, in person in Singapore some years ago.

We began with a promenade from the 2011 and 2013 vintages, quite appropriate as well as the wines from these challenging vintages are probably at their best during their youth, followed by another series of more mature wines that demand pairing with food. While some of these estates may not be the biggest names around, their wines are very well made and showing well, demonstrating good specificity of terroir, proving that quality can be found in abundance if you know where to look.

2013 Relais de la Dominique. The second wine of Château La Dominique, comprising 88% merlot and the rest cabernet franc, all from young vines. This wine displays absolute floral fragrance on the nose, carrying good weight and good concentration of red fruits, quite lifted and spicy at the finish. Very agreeable.

2011 Château La Dominique. Mostly merlot in its make-up, this Saint-Emilion grand vin exudes excellent aromas of red fruits with a heavier tint, well-structured with good length, presence and acidity with a hint of undergrowth, finishing with supple tannins. Drinking well.

2011 Château Ferriere. Highly perfumed with ample aromas of red fruits, quite glorious. Supple and gently structured with good concentration of raspberries and redcurrants. Distinctly feminine. Could well be that its winemaker is a woman but this wine speaks of its Margaux origin through and through. Excellent.

2013 Château Phelan Segur. Deep purple, displaying some early complexity on the nose, medium-bodied, structured with finely-grained tannins and good detail, very approachable now.

2011 Château Phelan Segur. Deeper and darker, ample in earthy tones, dried mushrooms and dark berries, gentle on the palate with good concentration, tannin structure and acidity but short, unable to disguise the inadequacies of the vintage.

2013 Lacoste Borie, second wine of Grand-Puy-Lacoste, not to be confused with Lalande Borie (which is a Saint-Julien). Closed, equally placid and quiet on the palate though gentle with fine supple acidity.

2011 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Lifted aromas of red fruits with a perfumed fragrance, distinctly medium-bodied, rather narrow in profile on the palate, displaying good linearity but rather lean and short. Quite similar to another tasting note the previous week at Crystal Wines’ sale.

2013 Le Dauphin d’Olivier Blanc. Second white wine of Château Olivier. Notes of nectarine and fig with good acidity and presence, quite subtle in intensity, finishing with good length and understated sweetness. Very attractive.

2011 Le Dauphin d’Olivier Rouge. Second red wine of Château Olivier. Red fruits and wild berries dominate, medium-bodied, displaying lovely intensity of fruit with earthy tones, framed by crisp acidity and svelte tannins. Good representation of the terroir of Pessac-Leognan.

Following the promenade, we moved on to the excellent buffet spread with a delectable line-up of grand vin from the same chateaux, importantly from the desirable vintages of 2009 and 2010.

2014 Château Olivier Blanc. Closed on the nose, though the palate is suffused with a fine body of nutmeg and white flowers, quite gentle and rounded, displaying very good acidity with further notes of clear citrus and raw minerals, a bit short.

2010 Château Olivier Rouge. Closed on the nose, though rounded with a soft focus of raspberries and red fruits, medium-bodied, establishing good grip with good integration and fine tannins, finishing with gentle intensity. Attractive.

2010 Château Phelan Segur. Largely closed though one discerns dark flavours with quiet intensity, medium-bodied, rounded with good presence, already quite seamless, underscored by stern ferrous minerals that produced a higher tone over time. Very fine and very approachable.

2010 Château La Dominique. Deep purple, quite full with broad swathes of red fruits, dark currants and enamel, displaying good presence and intensity, finishing with firm tannins and stern minerals.

2009 Château Ferriere. Evolving well with lovely aromas of tangerines and kumquat on the nose whilst the palate is infused with excellent concentration of ripe berries, imparting  sweet supple velvety intensity, well-balanced and quite seamless, almost voluptuous. Every bit a Margaux wine. Excellent.

2009 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Serving what is supposedly the best for last, this wine exudes a very sexy bouquet with good lift and lovely earthy pungency, medium-full, rounded and fleshy, absolutely seamless between the tannins, acidity and fruit, very subtly structured, finishing with traces of smoke and some marmite minerals. Not quite utterly Pauillac in expression, veering more towards Saint-Julien but that hardly bothers me when there is so much power, elegance and finesse on show here. Excellent, and will be outstanding in time.

My thanks to Parkway Hospitals for organising this event.

1999 Vieux Chateau Certan (courtesy of Vic), popped and poured at Glen after hours, 03 Jul 2017. Tasted blind but its Pomerol character is quite unmistakable. Deep garnet red with a hint of evolution at the rim, exuding deep dark plums, sandalwood and dark fruits with good lift, generous and fleshy with savoury overtones, displaying lovely acidity and excellent linearity, less complex than the best vintages, missing in charm and structure, slightly short. Still very fine, nonetheless.

Rockford Black Shiraz 2009 disgorgement, popped and poured over dimsum at Asia Grand, 09 Jul 2017. Lifted tone of rich dark chocolate with mint, licorice, black fruits, dark currants and dark cherries, rich in detail and layering, delightfully smooth with its fine bubbles adding a bit of welcome frisson, building up towards a lifted intensity with a characteristic liquered finish amidst developing complexity. Quite lovely, but will be even better in another 3-4 years.

Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve NV, popped and poured over a late dinner at Otto Ristorante, 11 Jul 2017. This wine exudes a lovely yeasty pungency, not overwhelming, gentle with creamy textures, rich in yellow citrus, lime and ferrous elements, becoming more intense over time as it tapered to a dry minerally finish.

1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (courtesy of John), decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 11 Jul 2017. Still deep in colour, exuding a very lovely earthy pungency with aromas of dark roses, dark currants and other savoury characters, fleshy and succulent, totally seamless between its high-toned minerals and sublime acidity. Distinctly feminine with absolute grace and elegance. At its best and will hold for many more years. Outstanding.

2015 Domaine Chatelain Pouilly-Fume, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. Nicely lifted on the nose with grassy elements and some beeswax, displaying crisp acidity and good concentration of citrus flavours with lovely intensity, slightly dry, finishing well. Very fine.

2014 Muller-Catoir Haardt Kabinett Riesling, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. The bouquet here is distinctly feminine with a soft focus, hinting at white flowers and citrus, quite alluring but not showing much. True to its usual character, this Muller-Catoir is much more revealing on the palate where strong overtones of tropical fruit dominate, medium-bodied, supple with good definition, just a tad short.

2011 Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. Raspberries and dark fruits dominate on the nose with mild earthiness and a dash of wood. Medium-bodied and fleshy but dryish, missing in layering, charm and opulence, betraying the lacklustre vintage. Not distinctive.

2010 Parveil de Luze, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. Quite promising on the nose with aromas of earth and dark roses, quite full with good intensity and dryish textures but spoilt by acidity that’s too pronounced, falling off the palate. Not distinctive.

2002 Ch Du Tertre, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. Dark red, boasting red plums and wild berries, medium-bodied, structured with mild sweet tannins but short. Lacks distinction.

2015 Talenti Rosso di Montalcino, tasted at Crystal Wines Annual Sale, 15 Jul 2017. Deep red, packed with an abundance of distilled red fruits. Medium-bodied, displaying good concentration of ripe berries with mild intensity but far from being developed.

2009 Ch Bernadotte, popped and poured at South Union Park, 15 Jul 2017. Deep purple, exuding a weighty bouquet of licorice, powerful medicinal tones and ripe wild berries, gelling well after 30 minutes more seamless, displaying good body and depth of dark berries with gentle sweet tannins, though there isn’t much development.

2001 Mount Mary Quintet, decanted onsite at Yen Yakiniku, 18 Jul 2017. Dark red, this wine exuded a generous rounded bouquet of dark berries and floral characters with a hint of bramble that was entirely Bordeaux-like though still tight on the palate with excellent concentration and fine intensity with a bit of high-toned acidity that provided some verve and exuberance. It gradually settled down, opening up well, more fleshy and seamless, taking on a plummy tone with traces of tangerine at its core supported by understated minerals. Yet to really peak though drinking very well, but make sure you give it a couple of hours at least to unfurl properly.

2004 Louis Roederer Cristal, courtesy of Sanjay at his residence, 22 Jul 2017. Full-bodied with excellent concentration of lime, pomelo and other citrus characters, supported by finely etched minerals with dryish textures that create firm tone throughout, finishing with overtones of red dates. Good stuff but it lacks definition of terroir.

2014 Bouchard Pere et Fils Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay at his residence, 22 Jul 2017. Shy at first, displaying some icing, some floral notes and yellow citrus with gentle traces of nutmeg and lime with stern minerals, then opening up, developing greater fullness, rounded with fine intensity of flavours yet maintaining a certain deftness, finishing with great persistence. Yet to exude true elegance and finesse of a Montrachet Grand Cru, for I certainly wouldn’t have known if blinded.

2012 Y d’Yquem, courtesy of Sanjay at his residence, 22 Jul 2017. Very beautiful bouquet of white flowers and floral fragrances with a dash of paraffin, highly enticing. Full-bodied, cloaked in lovely acidity, absolutely glowing with great clarity and detail with understated minerals that are slightly stern, finishing with overtones of ripe tropical fruit and spice. Delicious.

1996 Ch Margaux, courtesy of Sanjay at his residence, 22 Jul 2017. Still dark at its core with traces of vermilion, exuding ash, tea leaves, cedar and cinnamon on the alluring bouquet, fleshy and supple with lovely concentration of dark plums and other secondary characters, seamlessly structured, finishing on a minty note. Nevertheless, it seemed to me less expressive than another bottle tasted at FICOFI’s event in Bali in May 2017, for this wine had not been adequately chilled.

2014 The Otazu Bond, courtesy of Sanjay at his residence, 22 Jul 2017. Poured from magnum. This is a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 25% tempranillo that you will never find anywhere, for it was created by a group of us (including yours truly) when we visited Bodega Otazu last year, limited to only 150 magnums, the fruit derived from the best of Otazu’s D.O.P. parcels, aged for 18 months in French barrels. Deep purple, this wine displays bright fleshy tones with a forward balance of ripe raisiny fruit with a deeper balance of dark currants, displaying very good presence on the palate but obviously yet to gel together. Will reserve judgement.

2013 Domaine Guillerault-Fargette Sancerre Facetie, from the list of 13% Gastro Bar, 25 Jul 2017. Quite attractive the nose, displaying mild tropical fruits with a nod towards lychees and a hint of nectarine, almost Alsatian in character. Rather full on the palate, displaying some lovely earthy pungency with bright tones of bold citrus and crisp acidity, finishing with vibrant intensity.

2014 Domaine du Clos Salomon Montagny Blanc Le Clou, from the list of 13% Gastro Bar, 25 Jul 2017. From the Cote Chalonnais, displaying some earthy characters with saline minerals and savoury tones on the nose. Medium-full. Rather bright and minerally with overtones of icing, quite crisp, displaying lovely intensity without being quite as layered as a Cote de Beaune. Very fine, nonetheless.

2013 Francois Gaunoux Pommard Les Rugiens 1er, from the list of 13% Gastro Bar, 25 Jul 2017. This wine opens with a lovely teasing earthy pungency, quite rich on the palate with a glorious streak of concentrated raspberries and other ripe berries of excellent depth with a hint of paraffin, displaying good purity, albeit a shade darker with some cedar and lovely dry intensity from the sweet tannins. Excellent.

2011 Albert Mann Pinot Gris SGN Altenbourg Le Tri, from the list of 13% Gastro Bar, 25 Jul 2017. Notes of apricot, nectarine, cider and aged tangerines abound with controlled sweetness and velvety intensity, just ever so slightly unctuous, promising great complexity towards its finish that should materialise with further ageing. Excellent.

2003 Ch Phelan Segur, popped and poured at Fort Canning Hotel, Singapore, 26 Jul 2017. Dark deep garnet red, exuding notes of dark currants and ripe blackberries with a slight tarry quality. Medium-full, quite fleshy and rounded with good acidity, turning more plummy over time with further notes of charcoal and ash. Drinking well.

2011 Patrick Javillier Meursault Clos du Cromin, a half bottle from the list of Iggy’s, 27 Jul 2017. From a producer well established in Meursault, this wine is relatively closed on the nose, though it is clearly imbued with very good concentration of gentle citrus and green fruit with traces of paraffin, displaying quite a lovely intensity of flavours.

2008 Domaine Dujac Morey Saint-Denis 1er, a half bottle from the list of Iggy’s, 27 Jul 2017. Deep in colour, this wine exuded great purity and intensity of red fruits and cherries with a lovely brilliance right from the first pour, supported by understated acidity and minerality. However, it turned a tad assertive and tough after some time, seemingly losing focus. Probably needs more time to sort itself out.

2004 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Duc 1er, a glass from the list of Iggy’s, 27 Jul 2017. True to its Volnay roots, this wine is rather dark in tone, displaying dark fruit with some bright spots on the nose and palate, quite full with good tannin structure and acidity, masculine with fine acidity. Still has the legs to carry on.

2009 Ch Le Doyenne, decanted on-site at Osteria Art (only fine dining establishment in town that’s BYO on Saturdays), 27 Jul 2017. Attractive notes of earth, cedar and some lovely pungency arise from its deep inky darkness, medium-bodied, rounded and fleshy with copious notes of dark currants and blackberries, its limestone minerals and graphite elements imparting good tone with fresh acidity though it’s body is somewhat narrow in spectrum, slightly dryish at the finish. Tasted many times over the past 3-4 years and getting better on each occasion but still yet to peak. An over-achiever. Excellent.

 

 

 

 

FICOFI upped the tempo again in Singapore with another informal event, a tasting of the wines of Vega-Sicilia, in particular its latest release, the 2005 Unico, amazingly twelve years after its harvest. Vega Sicilia really doesn’t need any introduction, thanks to the untiring efforts of its CEO Pablo Alvarez who has been associated with the estate since the 1980s. Although the winery, located in Valbuena de Duero in the Basque country of Spain, was founded back in 1864, its two most famous reds – the Valbuena No.5 and the Unico – were only first produced in 1915. Eighty percent of the plantings in Vega-Sicilia comprises tempranillo, with the remainder split between cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec. The Unico, of course, is famous for its long and complex ageing process prior to release, spending about 6 years in wood (a mix of new and used 225-litre French and American oak) after its fermentation in wooden vats plus another 3 years in bottle, while the Valbuena Tinto No.5 is normally aged for 5 years between wood and bottle after its fermentation in stainless steel tanks. For this tasting at the Four Seasons, Singapore, on 27 July 2017, FICOFI has also generously laid on the 2007 and 2008 to complete the mini-vertical, doing likewise for the Valbuena Tinto No.5 where its latest release, the 2012, was offered along with 2011 and a more mature 2004.

2012 Valbuena Tinto No.5. Made from 100% tempranillo. Bright purple. Very lively on the nose with aromas of raspberries, mulberries and a dash of wild berries, its feminine character reinforced by a palate that is bright, open and fleshy, layered with an exciting spectrum of flavours that lent some racy undertones, gentle in acidity, displaying good linearity throughout its length, finishing with minty tones. Excellent and drinking well. A favourite with many.

2011 Valbuena Tinto No.5. Made from 100% tempranillo. Darker in colour and tone. More substantial in proportion with stronger tones of dark currants and black fruits amidst stern minerals and a hint of undergrowth. Well structured and infinitely masculine. Not yielding much now, turning a tad sullen towards the close, staying this way throughout the evening even when I revisited a fresh pour much later. A bit tough now but may well turn out to be a dark horse. Best to lay down for another 5-7 years.

2004 Valbuena Tinto No.5. A blend of 90% tempranillo with a sprinkling of merlot. Displaying an attractive tint of purple, this wine is singing, open with a delicious floral fragrance, medium-bodied and fleshy, imbued with good concentration of bright red fruits and currants with fine detail and acidity, just a tad short. Superb value for those who had bought at its initial release.

2005 Vega-Sicilia Unico. Deep dark red, highly perfumed, exuding notes of abundant dark berries and red currants from fruit superbly caught at optimal ripeness, quite open and vibrant with exciting verve, yet utterly seamless between its layers and subtle acidity that imparted a distinct feminine poise, displaying great linearity and fine intensity. Quite outstanding.

2008 Vega-Sicilia Unico. Deep ruby, opening up with a lifted fragrance of red currants,  camphor and red plums. Bright, open and fleshy with fine acidity, turning a bit sharp towards its firm minerally finish. Far from ready but I think this is truly a hidden gem that will turn out to be highly rewarding. Lovely.

2007 Vega-Sicilia Unico. Poured from magnum. This wine displays a stern shade of red, appreciably leaner than its preceding counterparts, imparting some red fruits and appropriate fragrance but missing in charm and layering though it manages to compensate by finishing with good length and fine intensity.

FICOFI was kind enough to organise a dinner at short notice, featuring the 2015 wines of Domaine du Chateau de Meursault at the newly-anoited one-Michelin star Crystal Jade Paragon on 19 July 2017.  As I have alluded to elsewhere, this vintage has been outstanding for Burgundy reds with the whites just half a step behind. However, apart from Le Corton Grand Cru, I’ve not had the chance to experience the reds of the Cote de Beaune and this was, therefore, an excellent opportunity to sample the efforts of an increasingly important domaine from the south. In spite of its sizeable holdings in the Cote de Beaune (up to Corton) and its magnificent chateau (highly unusual for Burgundy), many seasoned drinkers are actually not acquainted with Chateau de Meursault, whose history may be traced back all the way to the 11th century. I can assure you the whites of this domaine are consistently excellent,  and just in case you tend to feel a little apprehensive about the reds of Volnay and Pommard, the 2015  from this domaine may just make you change your mind, bearing utter sophistication and class without the usually vegetal burliness from lesser growths.

2007 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Reticent, though its presence on the palate is quite excellent, well balanced with very good integration of zesty lime and citrus, displaying good intensity of flavours.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault Charmes Dessus 1er. Good lift of lemongrass, rye and raw nutmeg on the nose with fine concentration and detail on the palate where white pepper and exotic spices add immeasurably to its racy character, finishing with great persistence. One of my perennial favourites from this estate. A great buy.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Meursault-Perrieres 1er. Very clean on the nose, rather shy. More minerally and stern on the palate, quite full with very good concentration, acidity and balance, developing lively detail and fine intensity over time, oozing with sweet citrus. More complete than the preceding Charmes Dessus but requires more patience. Excellent.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Volnay Clos des Chenes 1er. Deep clear ruby with a hint of earth and some enamel, quite intense on the palate with lovely concentration and purity of red cherries and red currants. Should develop well over time into a more feminine wine.

2015 Domaine du Chateau de Meursault Pommard Clos des Epenots 1er. Saturated with ripe wild berries and dark currants, full and fleshy, shrouded with a hint of paraffin amidst understated acidity, retaining lovely balance and elegance in spite of its substantial proportions.

2010 Tiano & Nareno Travesia, a 100% malbec from Mendoza, Argentina, where Ch de Meursault has a hand in its winemaking. Deep purple, rounded and full with an abundance of dark berries, raspberries, enamel and bright rosy characters with further notes of toffee and mocha on the palate where the wine is layered with excellent concentration and intensity, very well integrated but short. Still undifferentiated. Bottled only in magnums.

 

These are tasting notes from a FICOFI event held on 07 March 2017 at Golden Peony, Conrad Centennial Singapore, where M. Luc Bouchard, the ninth generation descendant of the Bouchard family, had thrown a generous spread of the 2015 wines of Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils for tasting, on top of a masterclass featuring a 1999-2009-2014 mini-vertical of its monopole Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1er and Le Corton Grand Cru, followed by another few more wines for dinner. I have always had the highest regard for the whites of Bouchard, which are generally under-rated simply because (I think) people tend to view them as “negociant” wines but they forget that Bouchard owns a superb plot of Montrachet Grand Cru, not to mention the very special plot of Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru that used to be part of Montrachet in the old days. This year’s tasting again re-affirms my point of view but, this time, more of its reds have been included in the line-up. While Bouchard’s reds have not previously got me excited, this time round, however, they are all showing very well: the mini-vertical and old bottles proving their ageing potential and complexity while the freshly-minted 2015s demonstrate great sophistication and breed.

2014 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1er. This wine is highly aromatic, promising raspberries, bright cherries and red fruits, quite lush, saddled with great acidity amidst subtle tannins that exude fine intensity, finishing well with mild ferrous minerals and a dash of spice. Great potential.

2009 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1er. Lovely nose of rose petals and camphor, highly enticing, mellowing on the palate with subtle intensity in spite of its excellent presence and grip, quite seamless, finishing with lovely acidity amidst dryish textures that persisted with great afterglow. Excellent, but the 2014 may turn out to be even better.

1999 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1er. A rare opportunity to taste this particular wine from a glorious vintage that ought to be fully mature by now. Very open, glowing with ripe dark cherries amidst traces of cedar with other secondary nuances, seamless with lovely concentration, its crisp acidity imparting great vigour and vibrancy, building up to a lifted intensity at the finish. May not actually have peaked.

2014 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru. Considerably darker in tone and color, yielding traces of cigar on the nose with dark berries and redcurrants. Well replicated on the palate with superb ripeness, acidity and definition, supported by rich limestone minerality with tannins that are still tight but superbly managed, tapering towards a long minty finish. Excellent.

2009 Doamine Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru. Dark roses and glycerin are evident in abundance along with red fruits and dark berries, laying the foundations for a wine of intense power and structure with wonderful lifted fragrance and definition, persisting long after its finish. Excellent.

1999 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru. This wine is imbued with wonderful acidity that’s still incredibly fresh, rendering superb crispness amidst ample swathes of dark ripe berries, displaying fine precision though shorn of fat. Still youthful. An over-achieving Corton that is, dare I say, a tad over-extracted.

2015 William Fevre Chablis Le Clous Grand Cru. Rich citrus, layered with great concentration and excellent minerality. Very fresh and lively, imparting wonderful mouthfeel.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Meursault Genevrieves 1er. Light citrus with lemongrass and other grassy elements, layered with good presence and acidity, well balanced, finishing with good persistence.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Green fruits on the nose with characteristic traces of barley, coconut and rye that is the signature of Corton-Charlemagne, gentle on the palate, slightly sweet with recessed fruit quality. Rather shy. Needs time to unfurl its full potential.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. Green fruits and clear citrus dominate with superb freshness, exuding distinct overtones of herbs, lemongrass and nutmeg with traces of ginger, layered with great acidity, finishing well. Excellent.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune Greves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 1er. The bouquet is filled with aromatic rose petals, cherries and raspberries, showing good ripeness on the palate with fine concentration and acidity, its controlled tannins even managing a hint of delicacy. A close tie with the 2014.

2015 Bouchard Pere et Fils Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots 1er. Well extracted, evident by its deep color and broad swathe of warm red fruits that display superb ripeness and fabulous acidity, almost opulent, very well-balanced with further notes of camphor and earth towards the finish. A big wine, but suits Vosne-Romanee well.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er. Highly aromatic, ample in predominant dark fruits on the nose and palate with splashes of red, full-bodied and tight, showing good balance but a little short.

2015 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton Grand Cru. Predictably big from this source, superbly structured to contain the generous spread of rose petals and dark cherries in very fine balance, layered with gorgeous acidity and finely detailed minerality, just a tad short for now which should correct with age. This will turn out to be a great Corton.

2015 Bouchard Pere et Fils Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru. Smoke, sweet incense and redcurrants on the nose while red fruits with a deep tangerine core dominate on the palate with great concentration, acidity and intensity of flavours but lacking defining structure and somewhat short.

2015 Bouchard Pere et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru. There is a great abundance of complex red fruits of superb ripeness and depth with traces of tangerines on the nose and palate where its great concentration and wonderful acidity conjure a wine of great vigour and excitement, unashamedly masculine and supreme in balance. Superb stuff and will, undoubtedly, be outstanding in time to come.

1999 Champagne Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs, poured from magnum to kick off dinner. Lovely yeasty pungency, rich in complex citrus and floral tones, very open, displaying excellent depth with supple acidity.

2012 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru. This is a very special plot of only 0.21 ha wholly owned by Bouchard sited just west of Bouchard’s 0.88 ha of Montrachet Grand Cru (on the Puligny side) that, in the 19th century, was classified as part of Vrai-Montrachet. True to its heritage, this wine exudes superb richness of fruit, layered with silky smooth creme de la crème and icing amidst overtones of white flowers and chalky minerals, full-bodied but never heavy, displaying lovely balance throughout its length. Excellent stuff.

2011 Bouchard Pere et Fils Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru.  Lifted bouquet of dark roses leading to a great concentration of dark berries and red fruits with traces of tangerines, richly layered with good acidity but still tight, showing some early development with emerging notes of mocha.

1989 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er. Fully mature, this wine exudes a wonderful earthy pungency matched with glorious fruit, still fresh, that recalls aged plums and tangerine, gently layered with undergrowth and raw savoury tones, open with very fine acidity and great linearity that tapered towards a subtle finish. Wonderfully complex.

FICOFI ended the first half of this year on a high with the most delectable pairing of Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau d’Yquem at the Meritus Mandarin, Singapore, on 06 June 2017, both establishments now under the astute management of M. Pierre Lurton. Looking every bit the dapper ambassador as he mixed around easily with all the members, Pierre truly knows how to position his estates in the best light. Speaking in his considerably thick and inimitable French accent, Pierre still remembers our visit to Cheval Blanc last September, his face lighting up with delight when I showed him (pictured with Dr Ngoi) on my blog post. But when it’s time for him to take the stage, he may turn a little reticent, preferring instead to let the wines speak for themselves since no one really needs any introduction to these two estates. Having taken over the running of Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem since 1998 and 2004, respectively, Pierre is rightly proud to be leading the best estates of Saint Emilion and Sauternes, for he certainly appears very pleased whenever one discusses with him about the superb experiences we’ve had with the wines of both estates.

For this event, Pierre has been very generous in treating us to no less than five vintages of Cheval Blanc (no second wine!) along with the less common Y d’Yquem on top of two vintages of d’Yquem (there was an undeclared 2014 lurking around which I missed). The unique quality of Cheval Blanc is best experienced when the wine has had time to hit full maturity, for it really does take a very long time for cabernet franc to reveal its true potential, when the wine will be transformed into a fabulous kaleidoscope of red fruits, utterly mesmerizing in its ability to present lasting power, elegance, detail and intensity of flavours so seamlessly. On this occasion, however, though the wines were showing well with great potential, I’m afraid we didn’t quite achieve that level of nirvana as the vintages were way too young while the 1988, good as it was, isn’t the best that I’ve had from Cheval Blanc. But one must count one’s blessings and not be choosy; I’m always happy to drink anything from Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem.

1998 Dom Perignon P2. Dense aromas of delicate pomelo, white flowers and clear citrus, displaying good concentration and subtle intensity, noticeably more gentle and placid towards the back palate, understated in finish with some almonds and attractive sweetness.

2015 Y d’Yquem. Dry with dominant aromas of lychees, barley, raw nutmeg and dry apricot, ample in concentration of complex citrus, yellow fruits and creme de la crème, evolving over time towards a rich brilliance. Excellent stuff. First produced in 1959, this dry white of Chateau d’Yquem comprises 60% sauvignon blanc that is slightly botrytised.

2006 Ch Cheval Blanc, poured from magnum. This wine exudes a powerful glow of red cherries allied with lifted tones of dark plums and bright mocha that led to a great concentration of glorious fruit, seamless with lovely intensity and sublime acidity amidst traces of vanilla, displaying excellent linearity throughout its wonderful length. Still youthful, but should be quite superb when ready.

2005 Ch Cheval Blanc. Closed with barely a hint of dark fruits and raspberries though wide open on the palate, layered with excellent concentration of redcurrants and dark berries, well-integrated with great precision and detail yet highly understated, far from any secondary development. Will be outstanding but likely to evolve at a glacial pace. Truly one to cellar for the next generation.

2009 Ch Cheval Blanc. This stellar vintage has endowed this wine with a great abundance of raspberries and blueberries with traces of enamel on the nose, obviously still tight on the palate though the cabernet franc is more evident here than in the preceding two wines as it glowed brighter over time with an emerging tone of red fruits and paraffin from its rich layers and depth, becoming more feminine, finishing with ferrous elements. Superb but, again, another one for the long long haul.

2004 Ch Cheval Blanc, poured from magnum. This wine opens with darker tones of blueberries and raspberries, striking an immediate classic poise in its medium-bodied proposition, displaying attractive subtlety and openness with an excellent streak of lively fruit, very lovely in balance, growing more seductive and exuberant on the nose as dinner wore on. Drinking very well now, something not unexpected of this classic vintage. The best of tonight’s line-up at this point of time, in my humble opinion. Very enjoyable.

1988 Ch Cheval Blanc, poured from jeroboam. Well evolved in color, this wine exudes a very lovely nose, awashed in delicious floral fragrances with sweet incense and ash, rather high-toned on the palate where red fruits, camphor and minerals still hold firm with seamless tannins amidst traces of port-like character, finishing a tad short. Excellent, but still a notch below the Cheval Blanc of 1983, 1982 and 1975.

2007 Ch d’Yquem. From a vintage considered to be on par with 2001, this Sauternes is still primal, richly layered with nectarine, apricot and honeysuckle that exuded gorgeous intensity matched with sublime acidity, perfectly balanced and seamless but going absolutely nowhere. Keep for your next generation.

Just a few isolated notes here and there, but such sophistication and quality…

1999 Valentin Zusslin Pfingstberg Grand Cru, popped and poured at Sichuan Dou Hua (Beach Rd), 05 Jun 2017. Deep dull golden with an abundance of chalk and flinty minerals, densely aromatic with backward characters of aged crème, sweet grapefruit and minty white pepper, notably less of the usual petroleum notes. Still showing well and will hold for many more years.

2012 Maison Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne, popped and poured over dinner with Vic at Jade Palace, 16 Jun 2017. Shy but showing well on the palate where it is layered with clear citrus, firm yellow fruit and stern minerals with recessed chalky tones, displaying excellent fullness and very fine acidity, finishing with some trailing pungency. Punches way above its weight for a Bourgogne.

2012 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin VV, popped and poured over dinner with Vic at Jade Palace, 16 Jun 2017, after some aeration in bottle. Intense bouquet of red roses, cherries and camphor, displaying very good detail, presence and intensity with a streak of great acidity supported by ferrous and saline minerals though not quite seamless yet. Will be absolutely lovely when ready in another 5-6 years time.

2007 Tignanello, decanted on-site at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 26 Jun 2017. Dark currants, dark plums and black fruits glow with lovely intensity and ample concentration, fleshy with great acidity and tannins that are firm but unobtrusive, gelling very well after an hour to become utterly seamless and supple with better definition and a deeper note of raspberries, finishing with stern graphite minerals. Excellent but still not quite ready. Give it another 5 years.

2010 Valentin Zusslin Pfingstberg Grand Cru, popped and poured at the Tanglin Club, 23 Jun 2017. This wine exudes generous aromas of tropical fruits, tangy citrus, soursop and apricot, excellent in concentration with quiet intensity and that characteristic oily texture these great Rieslings possess, supported by firm chalky minerality but still a tad assertive from its cutting acidity. Keep.

1995 Ch Leoville Las-Cases (courtesy of Kieron), decanted at the Tanglin Club, 23 Jun 2017. A very deep bouquet of earthy pungency, blackberries, redcurrants and dark roses led the way, very lifted, open and agile on the palate where it is rounded and seamless with sublime acidity, almost feminine and most unlike the usual structured manner of Las-Cases, finishing a tad short but drinking beautifully. This wine appears to have turned the corner, for I still remembered a bottle (also from Kieron) that was immensely tight ten years ago at Iggy’s. Lovely.

1998 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy of Vic), decanted at the Tanglin Club, 23 Jun 2017. This wine exudes a lovely earthy pungency from its immensely deep bouquet, boasting freshness, good detail and vibrancy on the palate with lovely acidity, very subtle and classy in its way, already showing good secondary nuances with succulent tones of cedar, tangerines and plummy characters with a bit of dry tarry quality. Excellent.

2007 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 30 June 2017. Deep dark inky red, imbued with briar, wild berries and warm Barossa Shiraz, oozing with copious sweet tannins and layered with licorice, toffee and mocha of immense depth and richness, rounded with good acidity, finishing well with a mild peppery tone. Excellent.

It is not often that one sits down to a French gastronomic dinner fronted entirely by uncommon New World shiraz. Crazy as that may sound, it actually took place on 20 June 2017 at Nicolas. To preserve some decency for the restaurant, the champagne and sticky were French, as was the Rhone white I brought to complete the theme of “Rhone / quasi-Rhone”.  I’m glad we didn’t try to compare against actual Rhone reds. Wine is meant to reflect its origin and to be enjoyed in the company of appreciative people. If these objectives are met, then whatever one is drinking is a very successful wine. The reds here easily exceeded all expectations on both counts and, in spite of their massive proportions, I must say they actually went very well with the delicate cuisine. So do cast off the usual bias and enjoy the wines.

Champagne Gonet Brut NV, by the glass from the restaurant list, poured from a half bottle. Quite reticent initially, proffering only nutmeg and wild flowers on the nose whereas the palate was distinctly more attractive, layered with strong yeasty tones amidst delicate citrus, juicy pomelo, grapefruit and understated creme with mild cutting acidity, becoming more expansive over time, ending in a dry minerally finish.

2004 Paul Aine Jaboulet Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg. Dull golden, exuding peaches and preserved orange, gradually opening up with a soft floral fragrance with overtones of lychees, glowing with gentle intensity from the firm concentration of fruit before evolving into a more recessed character with dull minerality. Very enjoyable but the grapes of marsanne and roussanne need some getting used to.

1991 R Lopez Heredias Vina Tondonia. Severely corked.

2009 Henschke Hill Of Roses (courtesy of Jonny). Bottled in screw cap, which I actually prefer. Deep crimson, proffering a very deep bouquet of dark berries, red currants and dark plums with sweet cherries. Medium-full, opening up with a lovely glow of velvety red fruits on a backdrop of cigar and tobacco floor, displaying good detail, exuding gentle intensity with touches of spice and some sweetness at the sides, tapering to a short gentle finish. Very lovely, worthy of carrying on the mantle of Hill Of Grace.

2010 Chris Ringland Marvel (courtesy of Kenny). Deep impenetrable red, from which arose a massive wall of jammy velvety dark berries and redcurrants with some incense and mild medicinal overtones. Dense, almost monolithic, infused with spicy herbal tones and stern graphite elements but it doesn’t overwhelm. Yet to evolve.

2005 Chris Ringland Dry Grown Shiraz (courtesy of Kenny). The flagship wine of Chris Ringland but no longer available, I believe. Very deep in color with lifted dark medicinal tones and licorice, almost port-like in character with its massive monolithic structure though not at all jammy. Similar in character with the preceding Marvel, this wine is more open with some early complexity, displaying predominantly red fruits and currants with very well-managed acidity and tannins, delicious with a lovely succulence, certainly very approachable now but still light years from maturity, closing up again to become a massive monolith (cue in sunrise motif of Strauss’ Also Sprach Zarathustra). Better than a 1991 I had earlier this year.

2011 Sine Qua Non Patine Syrah (courtesy of Hiok). Deep impenetrable purple. Very unique bouquet of preserved fruit with sweet plums, red fruits and dark berries that hinted at superb ripeness and extraction. Surprisingly open and rounded, almost feminine with sublime acidity and subtle tannins with streaks of mocha and dark chocolate, displaying lovely definition and linearity, finishing with great persistence. Superb.

2013 Domaine de Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. A half-bottle from the restaurant list. Generous aromas of lychees and gentle tropical fruits with some white pepper and nectarine, showing good weight on the palate with lovely balance and subtle acidity though the fruit is somewhat recessed.

 

Some notes from a private dinner on 05 April 2017 at Nicolas, organised by FICOFI with M. Jean-Paul Dumond, Sales Director of Maison Joseph Drouhin, on one of his regular visits to Singapore. Whilst the reds of Drouhin are excellent in their own right, just missing the last degree of individuality and utter complexity that confers absolute greatness, its whites have consistently outshone the reds, truly outstanding examples of white burgundy at its supreme best.

2007 Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Broad and expansive with excellent concentration of pomelo, citrus and lime, fleshing out with good intensity and some lovely yeasty pungency, not too dry, finishing with traces of ferrous minerals amidst gravelly textures. Drinking well.

2010 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. The bouquet here is strikingly dense and aromatic, recalling petroleum fumes, coconut and nectarine that matched very well with the wonderful complex of crème, white flowers and gentle minerals from the lush fruit, quite full with lovely acidity, building up in intensity and structure over time with extended depth and  linearity, finishing well. Quite complete. One of the finest Corton-Charlemagne I’ve ever tasted. Outstanding.

2008 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru. Highly anticipated but still a bit reticent, taking its time on the nose as white flowers, incense and white pepper dominate with excellent presence and subtle acidity, beautifully proportioned with an emerging depth of tropical fruits amidst some early complexity that teased the palate with fleeting streaks of gorgeous delicate citrus, gelling very well over time with further richness, finishing with great persistence. An elegant and demure beauty. Needs time.

2012 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er. This wine is really all about its bouquet, bright with a lifted fragrance of smoke and incense along with a lovely depth of dark cherries and dark roses. Unfortunately, the palate isn’t quite able to keep up, medium-full, open with crisp acidity but lacking in richness and layering, tapering towards a minty finish.

2012 Maison Joseph Drouhin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Dark fruits and delicate tangerines dominate with ample presence, freshness, vigour and fine acidity though lacking in structure, as is usual from this plot of grand cru. Nevertheless, showing well with a feminine predisposition.

2012 Maison Joseph Drouhin Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. This wine opens with a great lovely earthy pungency with a stirring depth of concealed dark fruits, amply proportioned, lush and delicious with good layering and sublime acidity, growing in sophistication and structure over time but missing in development towards the finish where it is still primal. Should be quite glorious when it reaches maturity.