Ric's Wine Journal

As readers may have gathered by now, 2015 has been hailed in both Bordeaux and Burgundy as the greatest vintage yet of the 21st century, undoubtedly assisted in part by the recent phenomenon of global warming that has helped to ripen the grapes optimally before harvesting. Across the world, vintners are busy promoting what is likely to be a sell-out vintage and, indeed, M. Erwan Faiveley took the opportunity of a scheduled visit on 21 March 2017 at The Four Seasons, Singapore, to show off the 2015 wines of Domaine Faiveley.

With holdings of 120 ha across all sectors of Burgundy, it is almost impossible for anyone who likes wine not to have encountered a Faiveley before. Established in 1825, Faiveley has increasingly acquired its own plots in recent decades, becoming a full-fledged domaine in its own right. This can be seen from the wines tasted at the evening’s 2015 masterclass, all of which belonged to Domaine Faiveley. Erwan, the current seventh generation owner who, at the age of 25, took over from his father Francois Faiveley back in 2007, has continued on the expansionist path, acquiring plots in the all-important grand crus of Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet as well as Musigny itself. Erwan has also just completed the rebuilding of Faiveley’s new cellars in Nuits-Saint-Georges, a firm commitment to the continuing excellence of this important domaine. Certainly, I have noticed that the reds of Faiveley have changed considerably over the past decade — richer, more opulent and fleshy with better definition and precision, no doubt benefitting from the longer periods of cold maceration and vatting first espoused by Francois. As for the 2015 wines, Erwan has likened them to those of 1990, perhaps with the added advantage of better viticultural understanding and craftsmanship compared with 25 years ago. If that’s the case, and if you have been a long-time admirer of Domaine Faiveley, I don’t have to tell you what to do.

The wines tasted at the 2015 masterclass are listed according to tasting order:

2006 Champagne Comtes Taittinger Blanc de Blancs. Deep, full-bodied aromas of ripe clear fruit with overtones of yeast and cigar box that led to a broad expanse of complex citrus and sweet pomelo on the palate with traces of cinnamon, displaying excellent presence and crisp acidity, culminating in an exciting finish.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Lovely glow of white citrus with overtones of lemongrass while the palate is filled with exotic Indian spices and stern minerals, quite rich in layering and concentration with lovely acidity, superb in balance and proportion but, on the whole, still relatively closed, not showing much now though the potential is enormous.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Supposedly lower than Batard-Montrachet in the pecking order, but far more exuberant at this point of time with a minerally glow, crisp on the palate with notes of earth, creme and chalky elements, turning a little grassy after some time, wonderfully layered, finishing with great persistence. Excellent potential.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er. Highly aromatic with a heady glow of raspberries and blueberries, quite fleshy with very good concentration of fruit, more forward with traces of earth, displaying good balance and refinement but lacking in structure.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru. Deep ruby. Well extracted, rich in redcurrants and red fruits, possessing excellent presence and acidity, forward in fruit balance with overtones of camphor and incense. A wine of substantial proportion but not much structure.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru monopole. Very deep color, rich in dark berries and red fruits with a forward balance but sophisticated in feel and handling through its subtle layering, excellent depth, supple tannins, great balance and integration supple tannins. Very classy.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Deep generous aromas of red fruits, tangerines and cinnamon, displaying great concentration and acidity with supple velvety tannins that are very well managed, again favouring a forward balance, a tad short at the finish.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru. Deep ruby, richly extracted but showing great character, substantial in proportion with fine detail and textures that are slightly gritty, layered with lovely earthiness and incense with exemplary balance. Drinking superbly and the wine of the night for many.

2015 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru. Lovely clear ruby. Richly layered with glorious ripe fruit yet deft and highly subtle in every way, superbly balanced and integrated, its opulence never at all intrusive, finishing with fabulous length. Like all the finest top growths, this wine doesn’t call attention to itself. Will be absolutely glorious when it unfurls its full potential two decades later.

Following the extensive masterclass, we moved on to dinner where the exquisite cuisine of Jiang Nan Chun was paired with some back vintages:

2012 Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Served a little too cold initially, gradually warming up with generous aromas of crisp white floral characters and raw nutmeg, ample with good concentration and acidity that held some lovely tension across the palate, finishing with good linearity but a tad short.

2011 Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. This wine has begun to shut down, reticent with subdued citrus and minerality with an unique tone of nutmeg within a fairly narrow spectrum, balanced with well-integrated characters of crème and chalk, finishing well but not spectacular. Needs time to unravel.

2007 Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru. Slightly opaque, revealing some lovely early secondary nuances, floral with aromas of rose petals and dark cherries, really excellent. There is a mild medicinal sweetness on the palate that was quite understated, dominated at this stage by crisp acidity, tapering towards a minty finish. Needs time to unravel further.

1999 Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er. From a stellar vintage, this fruit here is still slightly backward, its bright red fruits dominated instead by persistent earthiness and mild medicinal tones, slightly attenuated and lacking structure but still retaining good acidity.

2009 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru. Displaying a glorious clear crimson, Faiveley’s monopole from this outstanding vintage is beginning to open up, revealing early secondary nuances with a deeper streak of predominant red fruits on the nose and body, laced with great acidity, finishing with good length and understated intensity. Should turn out to be the modern equivalent of the 1996 (below) in another decade. This is the only Corton Grand Cru worthy of rivalling that of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti.

1996 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru. Made by Francois Faiveley, this monopole from an earlier age has developed beautifully, now displaying an enticing complex of red fruits, incense and earth, fleshy with excellent depth, body and acidity still, yielding superb definition and precision on the palate. Seemingly yet to peak. Absolutely glorious.

1995 Château d’Yquem. Luscious with overtones of seared caramel, smoke and sweet incense, lovely in concentration with some mild viscosity that added further to the understated intensity of tropical fruits, nectarine and apricot. Quite divine but, I suspect, still yet to peak.

2003 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 01 May 2017. This is a bottle that I’ve cellared since purchasing it from Carrefour in 2006. This wine opens with an abundance of chocolate, mocha, dark cherries and black berries on the nose, displaying excellent presence and fresh acidity with plenty of brio, structured with subtle minerality, fleshing out further with a gentle earthy pungency, finishing well with a lasting glow. Quite gorgeous, on par with classified growths but yet to peak. Excellent.

2002 Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, popped and poured at Famous Kitchen, 06 May 2017. Generous in peaches and yellow citrus on the nose, rather  recessed and backward on the palate which is typical of this producer with a tone of aged honey, developing crisp acidity amidst a powerful minerally glow over time. Very fine but lacks ultimate distinction.

1999 Ch Palmer, decanted on-site at Iggy’s, 09 May 2017, to celebrate the wifey’s big round number. Deep purple, this wine exuded ample aromas of ash, ember, plums, redcurrants and ripe dark berries with a lovely glow of dry tobacco and incense. Medium-full with a fleshy mouthfeel, it opened up rapidly, revealing excellent definition and gorgeous acidity with discrete supple tannins, culminating in fine intensity and lovely refinement. Still yet to peak. Superb.

2004 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto di Poggio Sant’ Enrico, decanted on-site at Pasta Brava, 13 May 2017. An abundance of ripe raspberries and dark fruits coupled with gentle aromas of earthy minerals on the nose with supple biting tannins, subtle intensity and fine definition that produced a very lovely mouthfeel, slightly stern towards the finish. More settled and developed compared with a previous tasting two years ago.

1982 Jean Bourdy A Arlay (courtesy of Hiok), popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 15 May 2017. Very light in color, a transluscent vermilion. Generous complex aromas of gunsmoke, ferric minerals and tangerines. Medium-bodied, highly supple and open with good concentration without plumbing the depths, still laced with good acidity but not overtly complex on the palate in spite of its age.

2010 Hacienda Monastero (courtesy of KP) popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 15 May 2017. Deep dark brooding, a wine of large proportions. Full-bodied and tight with an abundance of dark plums, prunes and dark currants, finishing with firm tannins marked by an alcoholic trail.

2011 La Pouisse d’Or Volnay En Caillerets 1er, a glass from the list of Corner House, Singapore, 18 May 2017 over lunch. Effusive aromas here with a deeper tone of red fruits, dark cherries and dark roses. Bold with substantial proportions on the palate, displaying crisp cutting acidity and stern minerals. Not quite settled.

2014 Domaine du Pelican Arbois chardonnay (courtesy of LF), drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. Generous bouquet of crème, vanilla and chalk with some icing. Gentle on its entry onto the palate, quite full with good acidity and mouthfeel, finishing well. I enjoyed it.

2014 Domaine du Pelican Arbois poulsard (courtesy of LF), drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. The nose is gamay-like, light in colour and tone with a nod towards red fruits, slightly bright, but straightforward and uninspiring.

2012 Bollinger La Cote Aux Enfants (courtesy of LF), drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. Second time that I’ve had the chance to taste this unusual red of Bollinger from a 70-ha plot in the heart of the Cote aux Champenois, produced only in exceptional years. The nose is rather shy with subdued aromas of dark roses but it is really singing on the palate, seamless with gorgeous acidity and lovely concentration of bright red fruits and dark berries. Even finer than the 2008. Excellent.

2009 Farnito Camponibbio, drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. Made by Carpineto. Bright with a hint of ripe dark berries on the nose, excellent in concentration and acidity with stern minerals that are well integrated, rounded and fleshy. Very fine.

2014 Henri Bourgeois Pouilly-Fume En Travertin, drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. Light grassy tones with morning dew. Light-medium, open with good acidity and detail, finishing with a dominant note of sour citrus.

1981 Contino Rioja (courtesy of LF), drunk at the opening party of Oncocare’s new clinic, 20 May 2017. Marked by a lovely complex of tangerines, raspberries and blueberries on the nose, most alluring. Still retaining excellent concentration and acidity, finishing with very fine supple tannins. Excellent.

1991 Domaine Paul Aine Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert, decanted on-site at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Wild berries and tangerines with gentle sweetness, still retaining excellent concentration and biting intensity. Structured, masculine and fleshy. More delicious as it sat in the glass, developing traces of ferrous minerals.

2001 Fery Meunier Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (courtesy of KP), popped and poured at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Gentle tones of malt, beeswax aged crème and dried flowers on the nose. Ample with good concentration and understated chalky minerals, more minerally over time, well-structured at the finish with gentle minty overtones. Excellent.

1983 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (courtesy of Jonny), popped and poured at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Sweet aged medicinal tones with some tangerines, quite masculine, still fresh with good acidity with good linearity right up to its powerful finish.

1990 Ch Gazin (courtesy of John), popped and poured at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Last tasted 4 years ago, this wine is still inky dark, dense with a firm impression of soy, dark plums and blackberries, very good in concentration, rounded and full, finishing with understated structure and lithe supple tannins.

2009 Clos Saint-Jean La Combs des Fous Chateauneuf-du-Pape (courtesy of Kenny), popped and poured at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Deep dark red. Not too much on nose save for some dark currants and dark cherries that exuded mild medicinal sweetness. Quite full and substantial on the palate but rounded and accessible, layered with gorgeous acidity, finely structured. Not ready, but excellent potential.

1970 Vina Albina Bodegas Riojanas Cenicero Gran Riserva (courtesy of Hiok), popped and poured at Bistrot du Sommelier, Singapore, 24 May 2017. Sweet medicinal tones, quite effusive, medium-bodied with receding fruit, held together by dominant acidity with fine tension but over the hill.

2010 Sant’ Emiliano Barbera D’Asti (courtesy of Tom King) at the NUSS Guild House at Suntec City, 26 May 2017. Deep dark red, generous in sweet aromas of black berries, dark cherries and raspberries. Fleshy with good concentration, firm tannins and crisp acidity but fruit quality is hollow, generic in feel, lacking real succulence.

2014 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc at the Krisflyer lounge, Singapore Changi Airport Terminal 2, 27 May 2017. Loaded with crisp citrus amidst delicious creamy tones, exuding sweet aromas with a hint of tropical fruits, good in concentration, slightly dry.

Some notes from a conjoint presentation of the wines of 2015 from Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Prieure-Roch organised by FICOFI at The Four Seasons, Singapore, on 4th April 2017 where it was wonderful to catch up, once again, with M. Jean-Paul Dumond (Sales Director of Drouhin) and the youthful-looking M. Yannick Champ, winemaker and co-geriant of the latter, who naturally exudes magnetic charm amongst the female species. With almost constant regularity every year around this time at the start of the en primeur campaign, we keep hearing about vintners and merchants proclaiming the latest vintage to be the “best ever”. Global warming has certainly played its part in ensuring more days of constant warm temperatures during the ripening period, so much so that in Burgundy, the delicate pinot noir grapes are now harvested 2-3 weeks earlier than usual compared with, perhaps, just 3-4 years ago. Having tasted the wines, I can say with certainty that 2015 is truly magnificent for the reds, structured and richly layered with lovely fruit, gorgeous acidity and great definition, already drinking very well at this stage which is always a good indicator of longevity in bottle. Even the reds of Domaine Prieure-Roch, normally sullen and awkward in its infancy, were remarkably opulent, already accessible and singing. The whites are excellent too, though they do not surpass the efforts of 2014 which remain supreme, just missing the very last ounce of brio or effortlessness.

2007 Delamotte Blancs de Blanc. Rich in crème, chalky minerals and vanilla, tight and closed on the palate for now although there is no doubting the fullness in concentration, firm tannins and excellent acidity.

2015 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Marquis de Laguiche. Lifted aromas of grassy elements with whiffs of mint and white flowers, displaying great concentration, creamy richness and lovely acidity, very well integrated. Excellent.

2015 Joseph Drouhin Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Absolutely gorgeous bouquet of white flowers and complex citrus, rich and fleshy with crème and dense minerals in equal measure, displaying great supporting acidity, linearity and balance. Always a pleasure to re-visit this rarity from Drouhin, limited to only 300 bottles annually.

2015 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er. Glorious bouquet of dark berries, dark roses and dark cherries with a rather bright tone on the palate where there is excellent fullness, acidity and depth, almost masculine, subtly structured with fine tannins.

2015 Joseph Drouhin Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru. Gorgeous notes of rose petals and dark cherries emerge from a deep abyss of contrasting earthiness, fleshing out with great loveliness, acidity and elegance. Beautifully proportioned, quite full but still retaining good delicacy. Not at all overbearing. Excellent.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Nuit-Saint-Georges Clos des Corvees 1er. Don’t be fooled by the uninviting dusky redness, for this monopole is exceptionally full, recalling dark roses and cherries touched by high toned minerals and traces of salt that created some lovely tension across the palate. Rounded, fleshy and feminine, replete with a streak of complex minerals amidst a deeper vein of fruit, just a little short and missing in structure. Still very fine.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots 1er. The bouquet here is exceptionally deep and alluring, ample in dark cherries and rose petals with lovely poise and wonderful purity of fruit, open with gorgeous acidity and superb definition, just a tad short now but will correct in bottle with time. Excellent.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. Considerably darker with a forward balance of dark cherries and rose petals, this much maligned grand cru is most lovely on the nose but tight on the palate with crisp acidity where its remains unresolved, losing definition towards the finish.

2015 Domaine Prieure-Roch Chambertin-Clos des Beze Grand Cru. Under Yannick Champ, the very best of the Cote de Nuits is a wine of masculine proportion, ample in earth, dark berries, red fruits and dark cherries supported by fine supple tannins with subtle minerality and acidity, its quiet intensity and power controlled with absolute precision, already very open and accessible and superbly balanced, revealing a rich deeper vein of pure fruit as it sat in the glass. Glorious stuff.

If you have visited Chambertin, you would surely have come across a little white hut just by the side of the famous Route des Grand Crus that proudly proclaims “CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE” in bold block letters on its wall with a second line that reads Domaine Pierre Damoy, leaving you in no doubt as to your exact location (no GPS needed here) and on whose land you are standing on. Indeed, this domaine owns the largest plot of Clos de Beze, some 5.4 ha out of 14.7 ha, that has remained undivided within the family ever since M. Pierre Damoy’s great great grandfather founded the estate back in the 1920s. Utilising minimally invasive viticultural methods, Pierre prefers to harvest his grapes at maximum ripeness as far as possible (why not?), evident in the richer darker tones of his wines particularly in generous vintages.

Ric was there

On this occasion of his visit to Singapore on 18 April 2017 at The Inter-Continental Hotel, Pierre was showcasing the 2014 and 2009 wines of Gevrey-Chambertin, pairing them accordingly. It is evident that these wines share a common trait of good extraction and richness without sacrificing subtlety and typicity, certainly not an easy feat to pull off, thus affirming the excellent craftsmanship of this domaine. Pierre himself is a most unassuming gentleman, friendly yet a tad shy, preferring to let his wines induce the slew of superlatives from members as we went through the tasting. So what actually goes on inside that little hut made famous by all wine publications? Oh nothing, said Pierre. No barrels or winemaking equipment. I thought he mentioned something about vineyard workers using it to answer nature’s call, but I’m sure that was Pierre’s mischievious side talking. The wines are described in the order served.

2006 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. Delicate bouquet of white flowers and yellow fruit precede a lovely expanse of ripe pomelo and green fruits on the palate, matched by attractive chalky minerality and crisp acidity, never too dry, building up to a sweet intensity at its rounded finish. Excellent.

2014 Domaine Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot monopole. A village, but you’d never have guessed it. Displaying a darker tint, this wine was quite reticent, but sprung a great surprise on the palate with its irrepressible quality, stuffed with raspberries, dark fruits and dark roses of excellent concentration and depth, seamlessly supported by gorgeous acidity and understated minerality that exuded lovely intensity though shorn of fat, just a tad stern at the finish. A poor man’s Chambertin, perhaps, but worthy of a place on any table. Superb!

2009 Domaine Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot monopole. Also displaying a darker tint, a longer stint in bottle has opened up this wine, more fleshy and structured with a great concentration of warm ripe fruit, slightly brighter and tighter than its younger counterpart but sharing the same quiet intensity, depth, suppleness, mild ferrous minerality and seamless integration. Equally superb as the 2014 but likely to last the distance better.

2014 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru. Essentially closed on the nose, just a hint of dark berries and tangerines whilst reasonably structured and fleshy with good concentration of red and dark berries, matched with crisp acidity, finishing with gentle overtones of enamel. Not the best of Chapelle-Chambertin but drinking well now.

2014 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin Grand Cru. Displaying a darker tint than the Chapelle-Chambertin, this wine has shut down at this stage, closed on the nose although there is no doubting the richness and great intensity of fruit still tightly coiled within. Short and missing in structure now, but may turn out to be something fabulous once it has time to unravel and flesh out. Pierre Damoy owns only a tiny plot of Chambertin Grand Cru, just 0.5 ha, and it is clear that there isn’t much room for him to bring out the full potential that Chambertin can offer.

2014 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru. Whereas Clos de Beze is generally regarded as being the equal of Chambertin itself, in Pierre Damoy’s case, the former is clearly superior in every aspect, a fact that M. Pierre Damoy himself admits as his large holdings allow him to grasp the full potential of this terroir. First planted in the 1920s, this wine displayed a darker tint of ruby, exuding a rich exuberant bouquet of rose petals and red fruits, surprisingly open at such an early age in spite of the great concentration and depth of fruit, layered with excellent detail, definition and great purity, so very precise in its balance and proportion that its fruit, acidity and subdued tannins are seamlessly merged with great subtlety and sophistication, finishing with quiet intensity and wonderful length. Truly a wine for the ages. Outstanding.

2009 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru. Notably darker in tone and colour, this wine sports a rich mouthfeel of sweet dark plums and dark berries with a forward balance, open and rounded with good concentration and integration, drinking well now but yet to hit its full stride.

2009 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin Grand Cru. Dark as well, this is a wine of large proportions, rich with oily textures and a great deal of succulence, underscored by a deep vein of glorious ripe warm fruit, well-extracted but entirely befitting of this well-endowed vintage, displaying good integration of fruit, acidity and fine tannins elegant enough to tease the palate of its full potential though, like the 2014, not quite as structured as one would expect of Chambertin. Showing well, but far from ready.

2009 Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru. Dark as well, the Clos de Beze is consistently better than Chambertin, relatively closed at this point of time with only aromas of sweet dark berries but the stage is set for future greatness as broad swathes of delicious fruit impress with fabulous concentration and great acidity, culminating in a rich velvety intensity that manages to be gentle at the same time. Very well-balanced and proportioned, subtly structured. Will be absolutely glorious.

2005 Ch D’Yquem. FICOFI appears to carry endless stocks of this wine, highly consistent at each tasting. Notes of seared caramel and burnt sugar dominate on the nose, infusing the palate with a rich burnished tone of nectarine, white fruit, apricot and sweet incense, bright with lovely intensity and great acidity. Huge potential.

As I have mentioned before, one should drop everything whenever the great Dr Ngoi summons you to dinner, even at the eleventh hour. This happened again on 02 May 2017, this time at his residence to honour a personal friend, pulling no punches with the wine proffered from his cellar. You know that the evening simply cannot go wrong when a 1999 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is served as the aperitif. Even after 18 years, this wine is still tightly coiled, displaying a gentle nose of white flowers, yellow fruits and bananas with barely a hint of complexity whilst a deep minerally streak runs through the palate, replete with crisp acidity, pomelo and some mild sweet grassy notes, rich but delicate in balance, yet to unravel but I’m not complaining.

The 2009 Chateau Grillet was poured at the dinner table, where Grace had gone to great lengths to ensure that the home-cooked food was on par with Cordon Bleu. This Rhone white has achieved a cult following and is extremely difficult to procure. On this occasion, however, it was essentially closed, offering just a peep of icing and white flowers on the nose though the palate is clean and stern-edged, loaded with a great expanse of dense marsanne and roussanne fruit with a character that recalled beeswax, somewhat recessed but well-structured, tapering to a long cool minty finish. Very fine. Most people zoom in on burgundy whites but I feel that Rhone whites are under-valued and under-rated.

Next, we drank a pair of reds concurrently. The 1998 Chateau Rayas displayed generous feminine aromas of gentle rose petals with traces of camphor, appropriately soft with lovely depth, rounded with great detail and definition on the palate, open with a great minerally streak against red fruits set a little backward, topped with briar and mild herbal tones. This wine is all velvet with concealed power. Beautiful.

Next to it, the 2012 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru Les Ouvrees Rodin was almost as effusive on the nose, showing off soft red fruits, strawberries and bright cherries with a hint of tangerines, highly perfumed. The palate was most unusual in character, highly streamlined and silky smooth, narrow at first with a stern follow-through, taking its time to open up which eventually it did with growing intensity and precision, though not overtly structured nor masculine. One for the long haul and best to lay down for several years, at least. This special tiny plot measures only 0.32 ha, located at the southern end of the Clos de Beze vineyard, containing the oldest vines of the three or four parcels owned by Faiveley of Clos de Beze. Needless to say, production is extremely limited.

For good measure, a 2004 Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er was popped as well, immediately darker with a firm masculine tone of dark roses, tangerines and dark cherries, making its presence felt right from the bouquet, layered with excellent concentration and fine intensity, slightly brooding in character. One would have thought a 2004 would have hit full maturity but this wine appears to be developing still. The evening concluded with a generous sip of Remy Martin Louis XIII cognac under the evening stars. I wouldn’t try to comment on this great stuff, save that it costs SGD90 per millilitre, thrice the amount one would pay for Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Conti at retail.

Thank you Dr Ngoi, and thank you again.

2005 Ch La Tour Haut Brion, decanted on-site at Osteria Art, 01 Apr 2017. Still quite reticent on the nose, though eventually notes of high-toned plums, tangerines, dried roses and earth did emerge, leading to dark currants that coat the palate with gentle intensity, fleshing out over time with subtle velvety tannins and fine acidity, gaining in further depth with darker tones. Very fine, but not really quite settled yet. This was the last vintage of this estate that is now defunct, its grapes now absorbed into La Mission Haut-Brion.

1999 Ch Ducru Beaucaillou, popped and poured at Asia Grand on the occasion of M’s 18th, 02 Apr 2017. Substantially evolved in tone and color, exuding a complex bouquet of licorice, exotic spices, thyme, cinnamon, cassis, black pepper and dark plums with a lovely pungency, quite full on the palate where tea leaves and black fruits dominate amidst dryish textures, quite weighty with well-managed tannins, finishing with the faintest trace of graphite. Excellent.

2014 Sigl Gruner Veitliner, from the list of the Goldener Hirsch Hotel, Salzburg, 09 Apr 2017, after a performance of Mahler’s Ninth by the Staatskapelle Dresden under Franz Welser-Most. This wine is surprisingly lovely, exuding apricot, creme, faint nectarine and tangy citrus though it began closing down after some time, becoming quite reticent whilst bitter lemon and stern minerals dominate with good acidity on the palate. Very enjoyable.

2013 Grassl St Laurent Reserve, from the list of the Hotel Sacher, Salzburg, 11 Apr 2017 after a performance of Bruckner Fourth by Christian Thielemann and the Staatskapelle Dresden. Dark currants, black fruits and traces of dark plums caress the palate with quiet intensity, displaying very good weight, acidity and structure. Just missing in real complexity but very fine, nonetheless.

2015 Birgit Eichinger Kamptal Gruner Veltliner, from the list of Zirkelwirt, Salzburg, on 12 Apr 2017 after a performance of Mahler Sixth by Simon Rattle and the Berliner Philharmoniker. Highly aromatic, recalling deep citrus, creme, chalk and white incense, matched by very good concentration, refreshing acidity and length. Very fine.

2010 Rockford Black Shiraz, popped and poured over dimsum at Asia Grand, 14 Apr 2017. Rather woody on the nose, replete with dark plums, black fruits and a medicinal herbal tint. Quite full, oozing sweet black currants with reasonable depth but missing the characteristic streak of liqueur and complexity. Ultimately, somewhat nondescript. Disappointing.

2007 Valentin Zusslin Pfingstberg Grand Cru, popped and poured at Wah Lok, 22 Apr 2017. Aromas of pollen, wild grass, pomelo and stern delicate citrus dominate on the nose, growing bolder over time with a lovely glow. Gentle on its entry onto the palate in spite of its fullness, very minerally but slightly backward with understated sweetness, subtly structured with seamless acidity and quiet intensity, finishing with graphite and ferrous element. A wine of subtle power and elegance. Very lovely, and yet to peak.

2000 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. This perennial favourite exudes a lovely earthy pungency with yeasty overtones, medium-full, still youthful, displaying a gentle earthiness with mild ferrous elements that imparted a bit of a stern demeanour, remarkably smooth and well-balanced. Doesn’t quite match up to the 1999 in complexity, though.

2013 Peter Michael Ma Belle-Fille, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. Closed, though undoubtedly rich on the palate with smooth creaminess and traces of ferrous elements, seamless, displaying good linearity.

2008 Kistler Pinot Noir (Kistler Vineyard), courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. Weighing in at 14.1% abv, this wine possesses a racy balance with forward characters of mint, red fruits, dark currants, camphor and incense, crisp with good concentration, oozing with sweet tannins but slightly awkward towards the finish that betrayed some alcoholic dominance.

2012 Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. This wine has everything in right balance and proportion, generous in crème, icing and vanilla, open with great definition and gorgeous acidity in spite of its fullness, finishing with excellent linearity and subtle minerality, confirming once again that you can’t go wrong with the burgundy whites of 2012. Excellent.

2004 Christophe Perrot-Minot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. Displaying a dark evolved tint, this wine opens with great classic aromas of ripe aged plums and dark fruits, displaying great acidity but perhaps jus a bit too much of that. It became more settled after some time, more open with better integration, but will benefit from another few more years of cellaring.

2002 Muller-Catoir  Mussbacher Eselsbaut Riesling Auslese, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. Luminous gold, opening with characteristic diesel tones, rich in delectable nectarine yet open with a delicate lightness on the palate, still remarkably youthful, yet to develop real complexity, just a tad short. A demure beauty.

1998 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Buffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. This wine exudes oily luminous textures imbued with dense citrus and tropical fruits that offer lovely complexity, yet open with characteristic lightness and delicacy that is, somehow, only possible with German riesling, finishing with after-tones of smoke and incense. Quite superb.

2004 J J Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswien, courtesy of LF and tasted at his residence, 22 Apr 2017. Closed on the nose, though the palate is unashamedly rich in luscious apricot, peaches, pineapples and other exotic fruits, displaying lovely concentration and intensity all the way to its glowing finish. Excellent.

2007 Delamotte Blancs de Blanc (courtesy of C J), popped and poured at Shinzo, 25 Apr 2017, where chef Lawrence Chia is doing very well. Generous spread of sweet citrus, clear fruit and raw nutmeg, displaying good concentration and excellent acidity with good linearity, supported by broad flinty minerals but it lacks inner definition, veering towards dryness.

2006 Dom Perignon, popped and poured at Shinzo, 25 Apr 2017. More sophisticated at once compared with the preceding Delamotte with a broad expanse of stony minerals, veering towards dryness amidst high-toned dense citrus, lime and cool ripe fruit that produced excellent depth and richness. A waste to open now. Needs time.

2003 Domaine Paul Aine Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle, popped and poured at Shinzo, 25 Apr 2017. Medium-bodied. Tight and narrow initially in spite of having aired for some time in bottle, becoming beautifully rounded and gentle in the glass, generous in red plums and tangerines with overtones of orange peel, open and relaxed, displaying good definition. Not the best of Hermitage La Chapelle but drinking well if you give it time.

2009 Dingac (courtesy of Hsiang Sui), popped and poured at Shinzo, 25 Apr 2017. Highly distinct nose of tobacco and cigarette ash tobacco, carrying well onto the palate where it is medium-full with an abundance of warm ripe fruit evolving towards red plums, lit with traces of spice at the edges. Very unique.

2006 Perrier-Jouet, popped and poured at Shinzo, 25 Apr 2017. Broad expanse of sweet complex citrus amidst dense ripe white fruits and clear citrus, delicious with textures that are slightly dry, yet to peak.

2005 Ch Reignac, popped and poured at Ka-Soh (College Road), 29 Apr 2017, a no-frills Chinese diner that carries a Bib Gourmand recommendation from Michelin. Dark with traces of evolution at the rim, this is a well-extracted claret with a trace of jamminess, exuding characters of very ripe dark berries, prunes and raisins, slightly resinous, with mild medicinal tones bringing up the rear, ending on a spicy note. A little too big for its own good, I feel.

2000 Ch Chasse-Spleen, popped and poured at Huat Kee, 30 Apr 2017. This came from the same batch as another bottle drunk previous month. Showing some evolution in color, this wine was tight and angular at the beginning, requiring almost two hours to loosen up with dominant plummy tones and raspberries on the nose, medium-full with good concentration and attack of dark cherries and wild berries, still imbued with plenty of verve, suppleness and acidity, finishing well. Approaching its peak and will hold for many years to come. Very fine.

Spot Eagles’ Nest atop Mount Kehlstein, Hitler’s favourite holiday lair just outside Salzburg

These notes came from a party for about 80 guests thrown by the great Dr S S Ngoi at his residence on 26 March 2017 upon the pretext of having to clear his cellar. New Ubin Seafood was, once again, summoned to cook on-site at the premises, as was Kok Hong as the preferred choice of sommelier who saw to it that the whites were nicely chilled in spite of the sweltering heat while the reds were decanted whenever necessary. Every piece of stemware belonged to the Ngoi residence and they were beyond reproach. One only needed to eat and drink and enjoy the wonderful company of good wines and great friends.

Pago de Tharsys Cava Brut Nature, poured from double magnum. This Spanish sparkling wine is an absolute delight with lifted aromas of delicate citrus and clear fruits with good concentration of fruit and stern minerals on the palate, finishing on a note of  bitter lemon. Very fine indeed.

2008 Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Distinct notes of olives, plums and delicate citrus, medium-bodied, rather minerally with limestone characters that imparted some sternness to the overall complexion. Needs time.

2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er. Still closed on the nose though one discerns excellent concentration of white flowers, more minerally than creamy with a particularly rich vein on the mid-palate. Will be excellent in time to come.

2011 Domaine Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, poured from magnum. Dense bouquet of lifted yellow citrus with lovely concentration of fruit on the palate where it is equally lifted, marked by delicate chalky and ferrous elements of good linearity and definition, tapering towards a minerally finish. More characterful than the Faiveley above, albeit from different vintages.

2009 Maison Leroy Bourgogne. Lovely color, exuding an attractive earthy pungency with excellent concentration of raspberries, plums and camphor, structured with recessed tannins. This is easily premier cru quality. Truly a revelation. Superb.

1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru. Poured from magnum. Bright tones of raspberries and red fruits dominate on the nose with a feminine quality, rounded with a gentle concentration of classic pinot fruit amidst traces of earth, red plums and cinnamon, not profoundly deep but well-proportioned with growing intensity, utterly seamless, finishing with sweet subdued tannins and overtones of camphor. I wouldn’t have known this is a D.R.C. if blinded, given its fine balance and overall reserve. Will still hold for a number of years.

2011 Domaine Prieure-Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots “Pure” 1er. Lifted bouquet of red fruits with sharp dominant plummy tones leaping out of the glass, while the palate is filled with earthy tones with some attractive pungency, medium-bodied and seamless with a very fresh feel, displaying good presence and acidity, finishing with structured recessed tannins. “Pure” is a very special bottling of this wine where there is zero oxygen contact during the bottling process, resulting in the wine being fresher and more uplifted than standard bottlings of the domaine’s Les Suchots. Unfortunately, this laborious process means that “Pure” bottlings are not available commercially. Somehow, Dr Ngoi had managed to secure a personalised barrel (ie. 300 bottles) of this highly special bottling and we must surely be some of the luckiest people on earth to be able to consume this wine so liberally.

2003 Ch Latour, literally popped and poured. Deep purple, dominated by dark and red fruits in equal measure with plummy overtones, still tight. Medium-bodied, soft and rounded with good concentration of raspberries and blueberries, subtle in acidity but seriously missing in depth and length. The latter appears to be a recurring feature of the clarets of this heat-stressed vintage though, perhaps, it may be best reserve judgement in this instance as the wine had not received adequate aeration.

2003 Ch Lafite Rothschild, literally popped and poured. More reticent on the nose than Latour with subdued red fruits amidst mild plummy tones. Dryish on the palate with fine concentration of raspberries and dark roses with traces of vanilla, more structured than Latour, finishing with good length though one discerns some awkwardness in integration.

1990 Ch Montrose, literally popped, decanted and served, exuding bright accentuated aromas of plums, rose petals, camphor and cherries. The palate is marked by dryish characters of tea leaves with some ferrous elements and vegetal traces of great definition, layered with excellent depth of raspberries and red currants, open with a quiet intensity. May not have peaked. Superb.

1989 Ch Lynch-Bages, literally popped and poured. Purplish rim with a deep garnet core. Amazingly fresh with a delicious glow of dark plums, red fruits and dark currants, layered salty minerals and solid ripe fruit, slightly gritty, gripping the palate with lovely intensity and sweet subtle tannins though its finish is short.

It remains to thank Dr Ngoi for his immense generosity. Merci beaucoup!

1996 Domaine de Montille Volnay Les Champans 1er (courtesy of Fatty), 06 Mar 2017, at the office of Domaine Wines. Tasted blind. Mildly medicinal on the nose with a trace of old leather, displaying good concentration with dryish textures and good acidity feminine on the palate, quite seamless, well-crafted and delicate enough but missing in structure.

2005 Domaine de Montille Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er (courtesy of Alvin), 06 Mar 2017, at the office of Domaine Wines. Tasted blind. Significantly younger than the preceding Montille but remarkably similar in profile though the bouquet displays a bolder tone of rose petals, potentially rich with some plums amidst traces of black pepper, its feminine character enhanced by subtle acidity and seamless integration on the palate, soft and rounded, again missing in structure.

2002 Nicolas Potel Vosne-Romanee Les Gaudichots 1er (courtesy of KG), 06 Mar 2017, at the office of Domaine Wines. Tasted blind. Dark reddish brown, displaying very good concentration and depth particularly on the mid-palate with soft subdued minerals and fine seamless integration, finishing well with plums and warm fruits. More and more lovely on the nose over time. Delicious

2006 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru (courtesy of Jonathan Chan), 06 Mar 2017, at the office of Domaine Wines.mature color. Lovely floral fragrance emerging from the excellent ripe fruit, displaying dryish textures with very good concentration and depth supported by ferrous minerals, fresh and exciting but lacking in structure, finishing short with a trace of sweetness.

2004 Domaine Christophe Perrot-Minot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru (courtesy of Li Fern), 06 Mar 2017, at the office of Domaine Wines. Well evolved with a deep reddish brown, exuding a deep rosy fragrance, rounded with excellent concentration with mild saline minerals and subdued tannins, not much in the way of structure, a tad short.

Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru disgorged July 2013, popped and poured at Ming Kee Live Seafood, 10 Mar 2017. Full-bodied and lively with a forward balance of lime and clear citrus, imbued with a lovely sheen of creme and chalky minerals, not too dry. Very fine.

2012 Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape, SGD115 from the list of Le Bistrot du Sommelier, 11 Mar 2017. Decanted on-site. Red and dark fruits dominate with rose petals, camphor, black pepper, spice and traces of enamel. Gentle but firm on the palate with high-toned earthy minerals, grippy tannins and excellent concentration of fruit, opening up with further notes of chocolate and a hint of licorice. Surprisingly open and highly accessible in spite of its 16% alcohol!

2004 Belle Epoque Perrier-Jouet (courtesy of Dr Wang KW). Popped and popped at Fat Cow, 14 Mar 2017. Forward with deep lovely aromas of dry toast, citrus, smouldering ember and yeasty overtones, quite lifted with delicate white plums on the palate that displayed good weight and presence, layered with complex minerals amidst bubbles that are very fine. Quite superb in sophistication and complexity.

2013 Domaine Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er (courtesy of Dr Wang KW), poured after  some brief aeration in bottle at Fat Cow, 14 Mar 2017. The nose is enveloped in deep dense floral aromas that led to white flowers and creme de la creme, its gentle chalkiness matched superbly with subdued acidity and a highly elusive minerally palate that grew in intensity over time, displaying great definition,poise and confidence. Excellent.

1991 Paul Aine Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, poured after some aeration in bottle at Fat Cow, 14 Mar 2017. My second tasting in as many month, with consistent notes. Glorious soft red fruits and rose petals dominate with mild overtones of tangerines at the core, richly layered with black fruits on the palate that is still very fresh with great presence and concentration, finishing well with gentle ferrous elements amidst subdued intensity and acidity from the fleshy soft tannins. Still going strong. Excellent.

1991 Penley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, decanted on-site at Wah Lok, 18 Mar 2017. There is an abundance of aged cinnamon, red plums, balsam and complex sweet herbal tones on the nose, replete with a dash of spice and ginseng, still carrying great concentration and acidity, gaining in port-like character over time, finishing well.

2013 Layer Cake Pinot Noir, at SGD58 from PS Cafe, Paragon Singapore (before SGD30 corkage at the restaurant!), 31 Mar 2017. Forward notes of raspberries, dark currants and red fruits. Imbued with great concentration but surprisingly gentle for a young New World pinot, leaving the palate with traces of burnt and some earthiness but lacking in complexity.

The best steak in Singapore can be found at Bistrot du Sommelier. Truly authentic in the French manner.

5th April 2017 marks the worldwide launch of 2006 Champagne Salon, its 39th vintage. And, for the very first time in its history, Singapore has pipped Japan (traditionally chosen for its large market) as the country for the launch, in no small part thanks to the efforts of M. Christophe-Maleville Cazaux of the Vintage Club. Prior to the official launch, however, was a press conference held at the Atlas Bar, Singapore, this afternoon of 4th April 2017 at 3.00 PM hosted by Christophe in the presence of M. Didier Depond, President of Salon that I was privileged enough to attend, thanks to the kind generosity of the former. Yes, you have understood correctly: I am one of the very first persons in the world to taste this new vintage of Salon before its official launch.

Derived from 100% chardonnay grand cru from the single vineyard of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger of the Cote de Blancs,  Salon produces only one single cuvee, the S de Salon, declared only in exceptional vintages. Thus far, since the start of the new millennium, Salon has been declared only in the even-numbered years (though I can tell you right now there will be a 2007 Champagne Salon next year). The estate does not bother with any other kind of bottling; at any rate, there simply isn’t enough to go around. Only 60,000 bottles of Champagne Salon are produced if a vintage is declared, compared with 800,000 bottles by its sister estate Delamotte (situated side-by-side), while the whole of Champagne produces 320 million bottles annually. That certainly puts things into perspective and Singapore has been allocated only just 600 bottles through its sole distributor The Vintage Club. The extremely limited production of Salon is due, in part, to the severe selection process during the harvest. Whatever that is declassified goes into its sister wine, either the Brut NV or Blancs de Blanc or vintage Delamotte.

For this press conference, Christophe has invited only a very small group representing various interests. The luxurious and spacious Atlas Bar, with its high ceilings adorned with neo-classical art, was certainly apt. We began first with the Delamotte Brut NV, offering a generous bouquet of lime, green citrus and apricot with a forward balance, filling the palate with good concentration and lovely presence amidst gentle bubbles, finishing with a lifted tone of soft ferrous minerals though, ultimately, a tad short. An excellent calling card for this house, nonetheless.

Didier holding the very first bottle of 2006 Champagne Salon to be popped anywhere in the world

We followed up with the Delamotte Blancs de Blanc NV that was initially closed, slowly opening up to reveal aromas of white flowers and incense with a trace of earthiness, rounded on the palate with excellent presence and depth, more minerally but never too dry nor austere, finishing with fine acidity and integration. Excellent as well but this is a wine that demands more time, with food to go along.

And then, finally, Didier gleefully held up the very first bottle of 2006 Champagne Salon to be popped anywhere in the world, having spent ten years on lees before its disgorgement in July 2016. Gentle yeasty tones fill the nose along with a generous glow of green fruits, yellow citrus and dried apricot, quite ample on the palate where it was surprisingly open, deep and inviting with unobtrusive bubbles, imbued with delicate minerals and excellent purity of fruit, exuding lovely presence, deftness and precision that came naturally with the superb balance, finishing with light overtones of mint. Wonderfully elegant. This is a wine that already has everything in place in proportion without calling attention to itself, a trait that I have noticed in all the finest cuvees regardless of colour, such as a Montrachet Grand Cru or a Romanee-Conti. Indeed, the Salon was served in a chardonnay glass, befitting its superb expression of this hallowed grape. With such completeness right off the starting blocks, the 2006 Champagne Salon is set to be a great classic in time to come. Didier felt that it paralleled the 1982. If that’s the case, I don’t have to tell you what to do.

Christophe serving some of the luckiest folks in the world

It leaves me to thank Didier Depond for choosing Singapore to launch this wine, and to congratulate Christophe for doing so well in such a short span. And, in case you haven’t heard, the future release of the 2008 vintage  will only be bottled exclusively in magnums (deemed by Didier as the ideal format for long term ageing), only 8000 bottles available worldwide. I’m glad I got to know Christophe….merci beaucoup!

Yours truly with M. Didier Depond

These are notes from a small gathering at Famous Kitchen where CW was keen to show off the stunning burgundy whites of 2014 and they certainly lived up to expectations: exceptional balance between stunning fruit complexity and sublime minerality with gorgeous acidity and depth to last the distance. And when they are made by the top producers without costing an arm and a leg, you know you simply can’t go wrong. For the uninitiated, I can certainly attest that Famous Kitchen is a superb venue for wine and food lovers: excellent service, great food, BYO, excellent stemware and friendly on your wallet. Worth the long drive to Sembawang.

2000 Champagne Pierre Peters Cuvée Speciale Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs (courtesy of Te Shan). Nutty with deep toasty notes and yeasty overtones on the nose. Very fine bubbles on the palate where green apples, pear, pomelo and dense citrus dominate with good complexity supported by stony minerals, not too dry, turning slightly stern at its ferrous finish. I have gone through many bottles of this same wine over the past 6 years, seemingly going from strength to strength with each tasting.

2014 Domaine de Villaine Saint-Aubin Les Perrières 1er. Lovely gentle floral lift of light citrus and icing, stuffed with good concentration of delicate white fruits and aged minerals that resonate with a mild resinous quality. At EUR 35, this is unbelievably superb value.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er. Distinctly minerally, as expected of Ramonet, with more flavours of limestone, coal and smouldering ember amidst some mild earthy pungency that is entirely characteristic of this large premier cru plot that lies upslope to the west of Chevalier Montrachet. Good delicacy, concentration and acidity, but done quite subtly, perhaps just missing in potential complexity that one senses from the classic plots of Meursault or Chassagne.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Saint-Aubin Les Murgers des Dent de Chien 1er. Adjacent to En Remilly to the north. Shut on the nose. Lovely characters of creme and chalky minerals, displaying good presence with a forward balance of white fruits matched by crisp acidity, somewhat straightforward and a tad short at this stage. More generous than the same wine of Louis Jadot.

2014 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er. Good depth on the nose with a lovely glow of peppermint and tangerines. Creamy, rounded and full with subtle acidity, just a bit short.

2014 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er. More earthy than Les Combettes and more advanced with excellent body, forward in floral notes, crème and subtle chalky minerals, just a  bit short.

2014 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet. Gentle aromas of white flowers with forward balance of tropical fruits, again very gently focused and very well integrated with subtle minerals, displaying understated intensity. Just a village, but absolutely lovely.

2014 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret monopole 1er. This is the inaugural vintage of this new wine from this venerated estate, coming from a special enclosed plot within Les Caillerets. As expected of Ramonet, this wine displays some early complexity in its bouquet of dense citrus and delicate minerals, medium-full, absolutely gorgeous in its precision and focus of gentle tropical fruits and sublime minerality, finishing with plenty of verve, superb integration and length. Outstanding.

2013 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès 1er. Relatively darker than usual in color and tone for pinot, medium-full, featuring good concentration of red and dark fruits with overtones of earth and soil, well-integrated but lacking structure, decidedly more feminine in character.

2007 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal. Generous overtones of toast, rye, barley and yeasty characters, very lively and deft on the palate with good acidity and subtle minerals, still youthful.

2013 Hirsch Vineyards Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (courtesy of Te Shan). Raspberries, red fruits and tangerines dominate on the nose and palate with light airy textures, medium-bodied, displaying good presence but too shy and gentle, lacking distinction.

2011 Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (courtesy of Dr Ngoi). Lifted aromas of delicate red fruits, raspberries and bright cherries, racy with fine concentration, depth and mouth-tingling acidity on the palate supported by highly subtle minerality. Still has some way to go but will be wonderful.

2011 Kracher No. 9 Muscat Ottonel Trockenbeeren Auslese. Glorious tropical fruit with a forward balance, absolutely homogenous, fairly viscous with further notes of passion fruit, caressing the palate with lovely intensity and depth. Excellent.