Alsace Wine Festival Singapore 2016
These notes come from the inaugural Alsace Wine Festival held at the American Club, Singapore, on 05 March 2016, organised by the Alsace Wine & Gastronomy Society of Singapore, graced by the presence of Leon Beyer himself. The AWGS was founded only two years ago and this event would not have been possible without the energy and enthusiasm of its founding President Julian Teoh and the organising committee. Please contact me through this blog if you wish to join the Society.
2014 Leon Beyer Sylvaner. Grassy elements, light-bodied citrus, delicate, refreshing, easy-going.
2011 Leon Beyer Riesling. Great riesling character. Highly aromatic hinting at petroleum fumes. Dry with crisp acidity and generous citrus, lengthy finish. Bouquet is absolutely wonderful. Almost hedonistic.
2013 Leon Beyer Pinot Gris. Gentle with the lifted fragrance of white flowers. Medium-bodied. Great balance. Subtle acidity. Good length.
2013 Leon Beyer Gewurztraminer. Grassy elements with the complex fragrance of lychees, light-medium weight, gentle with understated acidity.
2012 Josmeyer Pinot Gris Auxerrois VV. Understated sweetness. Solid core of tropical fruits and grassy notes, excellent definition, displaying good acidity and attack, great persistence, lingers on long after its finish.
2012 Josmeyer Dragon Riesling. Possesses some classic oily character of rieslings with a hint tropical fruit underscored by saline minerals. Dry.
2011 Marcel Deiss Riesling. Lovely nose. Gentle fragrance of white flowers. Rather dry, austere in demeanour. Short.
2012 Marcel Deiss Riesling. Understated bouquet, medium-bodied with mild minerality. Not quite as characterful. Underwhelming.
2012 Marcel Deiss Berckem. A blend of several fruit varieties. Lovely nose hinting at nectarine with forward fruit balance and grassy overtones. Good presence. Very pleasant.
2008 Marcel Deiss Burlenberg Pinot Noir. Gentle aromas of dark roses with a mild earthy pungency, light-medium, dry with dusty textures. Not quite distinguished.
2007 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim Grand Cru. Medium-bodied, gentle on the palate with floral aromas and subtle sweetness, displaying good delineation.
2007 Hugel Gewurztraminer. Generous aromas of apricot, seared caramel and mild nectarine on the nose and palate. Rounded, open and fairly ample with a burnished tone. Lovely.
2008 Hugel Gewurztraminer. Lovely aromas of a summer garden with flowers in full bloom, rounded with excellent balance and understated sweetness and persistent finish. Beautiful.
2014 Hugel Riesling. Open with grassy elements, rounded, rather minerally and dry at the finish.
Julian loves Hugel. Photo by Peter Wong
2014 Hugel Estate Riesling. Lovely fragrance melons tropical fruit minerally dry good fullness
2013 Hugel Pinot Gris. Lovely bouquet of citrus and lemongrass. Amply proportioned, zesty and vibrant with subtle intensity, displaying excellent definition and linearity. Great mouthfeel. Excellent.
2013 Marc Kreydenweiss Riesling Andlau. Forward bouquet of red apples. Dry and minerally on the palate.
2008 Marc Kreydenweiss Kastelberg Grand Cru. Attractive aromas of minerals and white roses on the nose, but dry and intense on the palate. Stern finish driven by minerals.
2008 Schlumberger Riesling Kitterle Grand Cru. Notes of apricot and subdued nectarine, very minerally on the palate, dry with subtle intensity, finishing with a saline afternote. Attractive.
2012 Schlumberger Riesling Verdanges Tardives. Lovely seductive bouquet of tightly-knit apricot and nectarine, quite ample, displaying excellent linearity and definition, finishing with great persistence. Excellent.
2006 Schlumberger Riesling Ketterle. Lifted aromas, chromatic tone, minerally and stern, softened by understated sweetness.
Photo by Peter Wong
2007 Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling. Lovely riesling character. Abundance of white flowers and petroleum fumes, highly lifted and intense, driven by dry saline minerals on the palate, spicy and tight. Excellent.
2013 Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve. Mild incense, citrus and grassy elements. Good intensity, understated sweetness, smooth lingering finish. Great mouthfeel.
2014 Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg. Fragrance of white flowers. Highly aromatic. Gentle with good presence and understated acidity. Great balance. Excellent.
Even Dr NK Yong is here! Photo by Lyndie Tang
2014 Weinbach Gewurztraminer. Highly aromatic though somewhat subdued on the palate with controlled tones of apricot and caramel, displaying good linearity with subtle intensity.
2009 Zind-Humbrecht Brand Riesling. Very attractive deep bouquet of lychees and tropical fruit, good complexity, sprightly and very well-balanced with subtle intensity and acidity. Excellent.
2013 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer. Aromatic but awkward at this stage, as if it cannot decide between itself and riesling.
FICOFI: Domaine Prieuré Roch
Right after the masterclass on Prieure Roch’s Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er “Le Clos des Corvées” at the Tower Club, 15 March 2016, was a full-course dinner featuring other wines of Domaine Prieuré Roch, organised by FICOFI. It was good to meet up again with its brilliant winemaker and co-owner Yannick Champ, who still remembers that wonderful lunch we had together at Aupres du Clocher in Pommard six months ago. Even though this domaine was founded only a relatively short time ago in 1988, it has attained an almost cult-like following.
Yannick & Ric
One obvious reason, no doubt, is because production is so limited. Excluding its monopole Clos des Corvées, the holdings of Prieure Roch amount to only about 9 ha. Or it could also be that the combination of Yannick’s youthful passion, individual philosophy and, perhaps, – dare I say – rebellious streak against establishment, culminating in wines that exude wonderful purity, grace and power, appeals directly to oenophiles seeking true Burgundian spirit without busting the bank. Where else would one find a “borrowed” Egyptian hieroglyph (the upper yellow eye representing natural forces, the lower yellow one symbolising the human, who with his limited knowledge, sees what’s around, the three different-sized red globes individual grapes which are the building blocks of winemaking, the green leaf representing vegetation and the scribe who records his observations) as the domaine’s logo on its wine labels? Whatever it is, Prieuré Roch is an insider’s wine. To know Prieuré Roch is to gain ascension into a higher realm of oenology. And it must be so, for there were no empty seats at dinner and some members had specially flown in just for this dinner.
We began with a 1989 Henriot Millesime, poured from double magnum. This champagne displayed a very lovely earthy pungency with an abundance of green melons and complex citrus on the palate where it was gentle and still remarkably fresh even though its acidity had become slightly subdued with age, supported by chalky minerality and a dash of cream.
Opening the line-up proper was the 2010 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillieres 1er that exuded a beautiful intense bouquet of red cherries and rose petals, open but slightly darker toned on the palate though its purity is quite excellent, very harmonious, detailed and linear, just a tad short. Next, the 2005 Domaine Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er displayed a wonderful floral fragrance, sweet and highly perfumed with overtones of red and dark cherries, most fabulous indeed, elegant and poised on the palate with controlled intensity, definition and excellent ripeness, slightly feminine, structured without being intrusive. Still with the same vintage, the 2005 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes 1er (average age of vines about 50 years grown on plots rented from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) was overshadowed by the preceding Les Suchots, displaying a dark quiet intensity amidst aromas of rose petals, more restrained without as much depth on the palate, and more minerally as well.
The next flight saw a 2010 Domaine Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er PURE pitted against a conventional bottling. The former has been bottled directly from barrel to bottle without oxygen contact and, hence, 100% free of sulphites, which translated into a very lively wine of dark roses, exuding freshness and lovely fragrance lively with fine acidity, depth and excellent balance. Naturally, this is made in very limited quantities and near-impossible to source on the open market. In contrast, the conventional 2010 Domaine Prieuré Roch Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er displayed a fine balance of red fruits and soil characters, notably quieter on the palate with a bit less soul and depth though it did grow in intensity over time, marked by an earthy tone throughout its length. This exercise goes to show that Yannick is consistently challenging established practices to improve the quality of his wines by avoiding any kind of unnecessary interference.
Photo by FICOFI
To close, the 2005 Domaine Prieuré Roch Chambertin-Clos de Beze Grand Cru was poured, exuding a powerful glow of dark cherries and red fruits of fabulous intensity, structure and concentration on the palate, highly detailed with great definition and linearity, masculine yet elegant enough to avoid overt hedonism. Yet to develop further complexity, this is a fabulous wine that fully justifies its lofty price tag, requiring plenty of patience. The 1999 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges Le Clos des Corvées 1er monopole came from the same batch served at the Le Clos des Corvées vertical earlier that evening, but it was showing better here, displaying better fruit quality with a stern medicinal tone, a unique wine in its own right but far overshadowed by the outstanding Clos de Beze.
Mar 2016: 2009 Ch de Marsannay Volnay Clos des Chene, 1993 Guigal La Mouline, 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste, 2001 R Mondavi
Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV, popped and poured over dimsum at Asia Grand, 13 Mar 2016. Somewhat restrained on the nose, but generous notes of white flowers, ripe yellow citrus and buttery characters dominate on the palate with refreshing zest and vibrancy to match the dryness, well integrated with the stony minerality without much of the usual yeasty overtones.
Napoleon Rose Brut NV, popped and poured at Glen after hours, 16 Mar 2016. Good concentration of peaches and grapefruit. Aromatic but rather dry and steely where the cutting acidity can be obtrusive.
2009 Ch de Marsannay Volnay Clos des Chene 1er (courtesy Chee Wee), popped and poured at Glen after hours, 16 Mar 2016. This wine is surprisingly lovely, boasting the fragrance of rose petals, ample in ripe red and dark cherries of excellent purity and definition, beautifully balanced with gentle tannins and fine acidity. Highly enjoyable.
2012 Saint Pierre Chablis, after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016. Generous in lime and citrus notes, highly aromatic, displaying lively acidity with a crisp minerally finish. Very enjoyable.
2007 Caves Jean & Sebatien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons 1er, after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016. Lovely floral fragrance with a fine aged quality, driven by ample citrus, crème de la crème and varnish. Good presence. Crisp and persistent finish. Quite excellent.
2011 Weingut Friederich Becker Rechenbacher Spatburgunder, after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016. German pinot noir, sporting an easy-going rosy floral fragrance, rounded with good purity of fruit, missing in real complexity and layering.
2011 Weingut Friederich Becker Sankt Paul Spatburgunder, after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016.Supposedly the flagship pinot of this German domaine. Powerful aromas of rose petals and camphor floated easily, rounded and gentle and detailed with good concentration and a mild intensity. Very enjoyable.
2010 Kistler Hudson River Carneros (courtesy of Dr Robert Kwok) after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016.. Lifted aromas of white flowers, melons and peaches. Excellent in concentration with a rich complex of creme de la crème with an oily buttery texture, caressing the palate with quiet intensity and understated acidity. Excellent.
2011 Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet Hameau de Blagny 1er (courtesy of Dr Robert Kwok), after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016.An enticing nose of peaches and traces of pineapples, quite exciting. Rather dry on the palate where white flowers and incense dominate with some sweet and creamy characters, open but a tad short.
2007 Kistler pinot noir (courtesy of Dr Robert Kwok) after hours at Radiology’s reception, Mt Elizabeth Orchard, 17 Mar 2016. Grown from in California from Burgundy grand cru cuttings with an average age of 20 years, this pinot noir is highly aromatic with a lifted feminine fragrance, displaying rich dark and red cherries on the palate, rounded with an oily texture but lacking layering and detail.
2014 Argento, popped and poured at Shinyeh restaurant on the 85th floor of Taipei 101, 18 Mar 2016. Deep purple, this full-bodied wine is driven by intense ripe fruit with overtones of raisins, prunes, blueberries, dark currants, enamel and traces of burnt, taking its time to open up, revealing some tarry textures with plummy tones and graphite elements but lacking in complexity.
2012 Yalumba “The Y Series” cabernet sauvignon, popped and poured at Shinyeh restaurant on the 85th floor of Taipei 101, 18 Mar 2016. Open and accessible from the start with predominant notes of red plums, tangy orange, grapefruit, fleshy and chewy on the palate with well-managed tannins amidst traces of tobacco, mocha and earthy tones. Enjoyable but its lack of complexity hits home after some time.
2011 Domaine Emilian Gillet Quintaine, served after about 45 minutes of aeration in bottle at a Japanese restaurant in Taipei, 19 Mar 2016. Delicate notes of white flowers, incense and chalk within a fairly narrow spectrum, slightly tight on the palate, good concentration but short, finishing with gentle minerals. Could do with better fruit definition.
2013 Louis Jadot Macon Villages, popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 23 Mar 2016. Upfront notes of dense citrus and pomelo with traces of lemongrass and green melons matched by chunky chalky minerals, slightly brusque at the edges and stern at the finish. Good to go with robust seafood.
2003 Ch Pavie Decesse (courtesy of John), decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 23 Mar 2016. This is a Saint-Emilion done in the modern style, full-bodied with a warm medicinal glow, concentrated and dense with a certain hardness and a mid-palate that needs further resolution, finishing with an alcoholic trail. Could be better.
1996 Ch Grand Puy Lacoste, a bottle I’ve cellared for many years, decanted on-site at Fleur de Sel (genuine traditional French cuisine along fashionable Tras St, Singapore), 26 Mar 2016. Stunning bouquet of dark roses and dark cherries along with attractive traces of earthy pungency, mushrooms, anise, cassis and ash, densely packed, highly complex and seductive. Beautifully harmonious with a slightly feminine predisposition, this medium-bodied wine is layered with red and dark currants framed by velvety tannins that caressed the palate with growing intensity, underscored by saline minerals, savoury tertiary characters and subdued acidity that suggests this wine still has the legs to carry on for another twenty years, at least. Outstanding.
2001 Robert Mondavi cabernet sauvignon (magnum), decanted on-site for about 45 minutes prior to serving at the Grand Hyatt, Singapore, on the occasion of the EMSS AGM, 29 Mar 2016. This wine offers a fantastic bouquet of roses, raspberries and mulberries, superbly aromatic, almost to the point of intoxication. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, open and layered with very good concentration of red and dark berries, peppered with mocha and spice, framed by silky smooth tannins, well-balanced and elegant, ending with traces of graphite and vanillin at its persistent finish. Highly satisfying. At around SGD106 for a magnum, this is a bargain.
Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs NV, popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 30 Mar 2016. Rather reticent on the nose, but ample and remarkably generous in notes of citrus, melons, green apples and honeysuckle to match the searing intensity and dryness of the 100% chardonnay, turning a shade stern and metallic at the finish. Excellent, but may not suit all tastes.
1993 E Guigal La Mouline (courtesy of Samuel), decanted on-site for almost an hour prior to tasting at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 30 Mar 2016. Displaying an evolved rose tint, this iconic wine offers a bouquet of camphor, rose cordial, raspberries and traces of incense, remarkably gentle, smooth and rounded on the palate, almost placid without any notion of heaviness normally associated with syrah, missing in layering and intensity and somewhat short, perhaps reflective of the weak vintage. One yearns for more character. Will not improve with further cellaring. Still, it has been a privilege to have this with a New York steak.
Compared with many other producers in Burgundy, Domaine Prieuré Roch is a relatively young start-up that came about in 1988, started by Henry-Frédéric Roch, nephew of Lalou Bize-Leroy and himself a co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Through a complicated process of selling vines in Échezeaux and Grands-Échezeaux in order to finance purchases of other plots (while re-leasing the vines they had sold), Domaine Prieuré Roch began at first in Vosne-Romanée, gradually increasing in size to 14 hectares, encompassing plots in Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Clos Vougeot, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Les Suchots 1er in Vosne-Romanée and, now, Henry is assisted by his co-owner and winemaker Yannick Champ.
Photo by FICOFI
Domaine Prieuré Roch is certified biodynamic. While the domaine isn’t entirely hardcore about this, it adopts a minimalist approach to winemaking, utilising natural yeast, minimal temperature control, avoidance of pumping and, naturally, neither filtration nor fining. Interestingly, Yannick prefers to ferment the grapes (which are harvested in full ripeness as far as possible) together with stems, followed by maceration. The wines are aged mostly in 100% new oak, the total élevage lasting about 18 months. I certainly won’t pretend to understand the whole process of winemaking, but when one speaks with Yannick, one senses his total commitment and passion in everything he does and this certainly translates into wines that are, at once, highly individualistic.
Courtesy of http://www.allaboutburgundy.fr
Amongst the domaine’s holdings since 1995 is a 5.2 ha monopole named “Le Clos des Corvées”, the only premiere cru in this tiny commune of Premeaux that is actually, strictly speaking, outside of Nuits-Saint-Georges, being located just beyond its southern boundary. However, as Premeaux per se is not recognised as an appellation d’origine contrôlee, it rides piggyback on Nuits-Saint-Georges, not a bad thing at all. I must admit not having encountered this cuvee before, perhaps because only some 2000-8000 bottles are produced annually, until Yannick conducted a masterclass on this wine at the Tower Club, Singapore, on 15 March 2016 organised by FICOFI. These wines bear the hallmarks of Domaine Prieuré Roch, displaying lightness in color but instilled with generous aromas on the nose, coupled with a unique power and robustness in its youth, yet sensuous and feminine when mature.
Yannick silhouetted against the afternoon light
2010 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er. Highly aromatic, of cherries and darker tones. Excellent purity of fruit on the palate, dominated by saline minerals, displaying well-controlled tannins and great acidity. Closed up after some time. Carries great promise and potential.
2009 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er. Distinctly feminine aromas, more of rose petals and camphor. Darker toned on the palate, marked by a certain intensity and richness with dry textures though somewhat tough and slightly awkward now, shutting down after some time.
2008 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er. Very lovely aromas with a lifted medicinal note, driven by ripe berries with bright characters, superb in concentration and intensity, supported by abundant saline minerals, displaying excellent linearity and definition right down to its lasting finish. Superb.
2007 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er . Harmonious notes of camphor, red fruits and tangerines with secondary nuances of cinnamon. Expansive and rounded, very open and sensuous with a beautiful feminine glow that was absolutely lovely. Most captivating.
2004 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er. Lifted tones of floral fragrance recalling roses and tangerines. Fully evolved on the palate where it is highly harmonious and homogenous, rounded with excellent purity and fresh acidity. Excellent.
1999 Domaine Prieuré Roch Nuits-Saint-Georges “Le Clos des Corvées” 1er. Not showing well, unfortunately. Dusty red. Gentle aromas of red and dark roses, open on the palate but backward, too placid in demeanour, not helped by dusty textures that clouded definition, missing in fruit character and rather short.
FICOFI: Opus One 2012, ’09, ’07, ’05 & 1996
When one speaks of the influence of terroir on the style of wine, the focus is usually on the geological elements of soil composition and weather or micro-climatic changes. However, a third factor is often overlooked: the Human element in winemaking. No matter where the location or what the weather pattern may have been, Man must always decide on which appropriate strategy to adopt in winemaking.
With David Pearson
And as the behaviour, tastes and preferences of Man are inevitably shaped by the cultural influences of individual Lands, the style of wine made will always reflect the intrinsic nature of the Land and its people. This is the fundamental reason why any attempt to compare a New World Bordeaux blend with an actual claret always breaks down. When tasting a wine, one must always accept this individualistic streak that is part and parcel of terroir. Thus, a claret will always reflect the French taste for subtlety and balance in its cuisine, as much as an Italian vino would incorporate its colourful culture, a Spanish red the outward passion of its people, the brawn of Down Under in an Australian red, the methodical, industrious and frank exposition of the American in a Napa cabernet. I was reminded of the above during a dinner of Opus One vertical organised by FICOFI on 07 March 2016 at Prive Grill, Keppel Marina Singapore, when David Pearson, its CEO since 2004, spoke about its mission to find the Californian expression in its wines. For me, it was great to be able to meet up again with David, whom I had been acquainted with since a lunch at Club 33, OCBC Centre, back in 2006 that was washed down with a trio of Opus One. Since then, David and I have never failed to exchange greeting cards every year, with Opus One now printing its very own Chinese New Year cards.
In the world of exquisite fine wines, Opus One is a relative newcomer, having been formed only in 1979 as a joint partnership between the great Robert Mondavi and the flamboyant Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Mouton Rothschild. 
While the initial releases were, indeed, a conjoint collaboration, Opus One has long since been 100 percent made in USA since 2005, when the Opus One Accord was reached between its parent company and the Rothschild family, allowing Opus One full independence in its winemaking and administration. Opus One is a true Bordeaux blend farmed in four vineyards totalling 68 hectares, although the proportion of cabernet sauvignon is considerably higher (more than 80 percent) than a true claret. An attack of phylloxera (ironical, since it was the phylloxera-resistant rootstock from America that had resurrected Bordeaux in the 19th century after this deadly bug had inflicted vast damage) mandated extensive replanting of its vines, such that the present average age of the vines is only 19 years. While tasting these wines, what struck me consistently was how well they reflect the American character: solidly crafted wines with bold structures and powerful masculine lines, yet capable of giving way to a softer, brighter orchard-driven complex that quite perfectly defines the energetic sun-soaked Californian disposition. In that sense, Opus One truly fulfils its mission of capturing the Californian terroir in its wines.
2007 Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs. Made by the sister house of the legendary Salon, this champagne from the Côtes des Blancs of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger fleshes out with ample overtones of clear citrus and white flowers with a forward balance, fairly smooth, broad and gentle on the palate with notes of morning dew, its verve and vibrancy enhanced by understated chalky minerality, never too dry. Quite excellent.
2012 Opus One. This wine opens with a brilliant fragrance that suggests sweet blueberries, violets and enamel, concentrated with fabulous intensity and forward balance on the palate with traces of graphite and earth, framed by tight but very well-managed tannins, finishing with great persistence. It became more open as it sat in the glass, exuding a sharp exciting glow of ripe berries that leapt out of the glass whilst it grew more gentle and lush on the palate. Superb.
2009 Opus One. Arresting aromas of red and dark roses and camphor with a dense core of ripe fruit of excellent depth and intensity, tarry with a mild medicinal and graphite trace, the vanilla from the new oak still evident. Still primal, developing a thrilling silkiness but it began to fade a little after some time. May be the beginning of an awkward period for this wine.
2007 Opus One. Dark roses and raspberries dominate on the nose, leading to dark chocolate, mocha and sweet incense of fabulous intensity on the palate, tapering towards a minty, spicy finish. It became more placid and relaxed after some time as dusty forest tones and wild berries took over with further notes of violets amidst a mild herbaceous trace. Needs more time in bottle.
2005 Opus One. This wine is developing very well, marked by a welcoming tone of warm red fruits, ripe and rounded, very well balanced and proportioned and gentle as well, layered with violets and plush red fruits, more lush, open and minerally over time, just a tad short. Distinctly feminine without being too engaging.
1996 Opus One. Quite a different style of wine, much more in the spirit of the Old World, the only one in tonight’s line-up that represented the conjoint effort then and the only one without petit verdot in its blend. The 1996 is marked by an attractive earthy pungency on the nose with some degree of muskiness, though definitely not corked nor tainted. Dark berries dominate on the palate with some bright spots, sporting a rich vein of fabulous currants and violets with excellent linearity, totally harmonious, beautifully proportioned and balanced. Will some of the later vintages develop into this refined and elegant beauty? I’ll put my money on the 2012.
1996 Ch d’Yquem. This beautiful Sauternes is imbued with an abundance of apricot and cinnamon of outstanding depth with a dash of jackfruit and pineapples, enveloped in a heady bouquet of rich petroleum fumes though it is fairly relaxed on the palate, underscored by powerful tones of nectarine, remarkably balanced, finishing with great persistence. Outstanding.
FICOFI Gala: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Barely six months after having had the rare privilege of visiting the cellars of this most revered of all wine estates, the chance came my way again to experience, this time, almost the entire line-up of burgundy from the stable of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The event was a gala dinner organised by FICOFI in support of the Association De L’Abbaye Saint-Vivant on 24 February 2016 at the Fullerton Bay Hotel, Singapore, the only such event held in Asia aside from another one just a few days apart in Hong Kong, with the co-owner of D.R.C., M. Aubert de Villaine himself, in attendance.
Ruins of the Abbey of Saint-Vivant
The Abbey of Saint-Vivant, located in Curtil-Vergy in the Côte d’Or, is inevitably tied with the history of Burgundy, having been established by the monks of the Benedictine order back in 890 CE. In 1232, the Abbey received a donation of the best vineyards of Vosne-Romanée (ie. the present Romanée-Conti Grand Cru and Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru and their surrounding parcels) from Alix de Vergy, Duchess of Burgundy, and thereafter for 650 years, the Abbey was able to cultivate these prestigious vineyards until the medieval monastery was demolished in 1772 and rebuilt. 
However, the Abbey fell into ruins again during the French Revolution, and it has remained so until an association was set up in 1999 to conserve the site. From this perspective, it is not difficult to understand the association between the Abbey and D.R.C., and its efforts to contribute to the former’s conservation.
D.R.C. itself was established in 1760 (Mozart’s time, before Beethoven) by the Prince of Conti and, since 1942, has been co-owned by the De Villaine and the Leroy families. The crown jewels in the estate’s holdings are surely its monopoly on Romanée-Conti Grand Cru (1.8 ha, unchanged since the old days) and La Tâche Grand Cru (a later acquisition and now expanded to 6 ha). Apart from these, D.R.C. also holds majority stakes in the other grand crus of Vosne-Romanée (with the exception of La Romanée, a monopoly of Comte Liger-Belair) and Flagey-Échezeaux. Viticulture is biodynamic, yields are low (20-30 hectolitres per hectare, whereas the law permits 42) and the average age of the vines range between 40-50 years.
For this gala dinner, the grand hall of Clifford Pier (now part of the Fullerton Bay Hotel), where coolies and passengers of a bygone era would have departed or disembarked by boat, was transformed into an elegant space as members in black tie and ladies in high fashion mixed around easily to partake in the free flow of canapés, washed down with a free flow of wines entirely from the D.R.C. stable for as long as they were available.
M. Aubert de Villaine holding court
2010 Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Bourgogne. Specially bottled for FICOFI and only one of three whites made by D.R.C. This medium-bodied wine offered notes of straw and lemongrass on the nose, somewhat restrained, coupled with crisp citrus, chalky minerality and fine acidity though clouded by suboptimal definition.
2011 Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Bourgogne. As good as the above was, the 2011 was a far better proposition, much more aromatic with an abundance of tropical fruits, rye, wheat and coconut, excellent in layering and acidity, eventually evolving towards a complex of lemon citrus with plenty of verve and vibrancy. Second time that I’ve had the privilege of tasting this same wine. Superb.
No ordinary Bourgogne blanc!
2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1er. A bit of a misnomer here, for this wine is actually made from young vines from various plots of grand cru, declassified as premier cru instead. Gentle aromas of raspberries and dark cherries, highly perfumed, led to an open medium-full wine of great balance, structured with very fine acidity and supple tannins that finished with a persistent glow that was the equal of its wonderful bouquet. Simply outstanding.
2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton Grand Cru. The bouquet here is absolutely lovely, an explosion of bright red fruits and red cherries, fresh and highly perfumed, distinctly feminine with an added tone of tangerine on the palate that enhanced the sense of delicacy, displaying fine acidity and excellent balance, finishing with a graphite trace that stole a bit of its feminine glow. This is an excellent Corton that reminded me of Domaine Faiveley’s equally beautiful Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru.
Dr Victor Lim, M. Aubert de Villaine and yours truly
Following these, we settled down to dinner specially prepared by 3-Michelin star chef Christian Le Squer of Le Cinq, paired with the following order of wine. I could not help but notice a certain style of the domaine throughout the whole line-up, wines that consistently displayed remarkable balance, grace and a certain feminine deftness marked by tangerines amidst the ripe berries.
2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru. Well-defined notes of orange peel and lime citrus dominate on the nose, mixing easily with ripe blueberries and raspberries on the palate where the wine is still tight and primal, rising to a mild tannic spine before easing towards a lengthy finish, eventually smoothening out over dinner. Masculine with considerable power, but needs time to unfold.
2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Échezeaux Grand Cru. From the same vintage, the step up from Échezeaux is readily palpable, possessing a far more generous bouquet of raspberries and dark cherries with overtones of incense and smoldering ember, displaying remarkable poise and balance and very well integrated. Highly elegant. Far more open and accessible than the Échezeaux in spite of the fuller tone. Very fine.
2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru. Notes of tangerines, lime and citrus are discernible amidst rose petals and red fruits with traces of incense, highly supple with an attractive intensity coupled with a dry tone of mushrooms and ash, wonderfully balanced but just a tad short. Very fine.
2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg Grand Cru. Further up the pecking order with the added advantage of bottle age, this wine opened with lifted aromas of sweet raspberries, highly perfumed, equally exciting on the palate where, again, overtones of tangerines contributed to a certain sense of lightness, enhanced by velvety tones and lithe supple tannins, displaying great persistence and balance, turning slightly austere towards the end of dinner. Looking at its opaque dusty color, I’d say this wine is at its drinking peak. Excellent.
2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru. This great monopole opened with generous aromas of rose petals and camphor coupled with a mild earthy pungency and citrus character amidst the ample red fruits that created a sense of lightness and wonderful tension, displaying great acidity, presence, balance and complexity. Highly poised with controlled power, never imposing, becoming even more lifted over time without fading off. Outstanding.
That’s SGD30 per millilitre
2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru. Saving the pinnacle of burgundy for last, the anticipation was palpable. Displaying an evolved crimson, this flagship monopole exuded a delicate bouquet of floral fragrance that was utterly perfumed, absolutely feminine, best appreciated if the wine is served in a huge Baccarat Romanée-Conti crystal glass (which a Japanese guest at my table had specially brought over…arigato, Kashima-san!). Again, there is that semblance on the palate where citrus and orange peel integrate seamlessly with dark cherries and raspberries, quietly intense with subtle concentration, displaying great definition between layering of fruit and the mineral bed that imparted a further sense of delicacy and poise. Supremely balanced, perhaps even aloof almost to the point of being stern but brightening up over time, lingering long after its finish.
2001 D.R.C. Romanée-Conti sitting in a Baccarat Romanée-Conti glass
Would I have recognised it as the Holy Grail of Burgundy if I’d been blinded? Probably not. Don’t expect a voluptuous knockout here. This wine is so beautifully proportioned that it does not call attention to itself, quite the epitome of a sensuous but demure beauty. Not surprising, therefore, that most felt Richebourg the wine most ready to drink in the evening’s line-up.
2009 Ch d’Yquem. This wine presents an overwhelming concentration of nectar, apricot, jackfruit, mangoes and other exotic fruits, brimming with fabulous intensity and matching acidity without tiring the palate, turning slightly steely before finishing with great persistence. Glorious, naturally, but we just killed a couple of cases of the best Sauternes prematurely.
I felt immensely privileged to have been part of this wonderful evening and I can’t wait for it to be repeated next year.
February 2016: 2004 Fritz Haag, 2006 VCC, 2011 Joseph Drouhin Batard-Montrachet, 2001 D’Arenberg Dead Arm
2011 Joseph Drouhin Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru (courtesy of Chee Wee), popped and poured at Jiang Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel, Singapore, 4 Feb 2016. Ample with an abundance of peaches, ripe melons and citrus along with a hint of tropical fruits and vanilla well contrasted against the chalky minerality, fairly full, displaying excellent linearity all the way to its crisp finish, gaining in subtle intensity over time. Yet to develop significant complexity but the potential is enormous.
2008 Ch Lynch-Bages (courtesy of Vic), popped and poured at Jiang Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel, Singapore, 04 Feb 2016. Ripe dark berries and black fruits on the nose, distinctly medium-bodied and slightly lean on the palate where the dry Pauillac character turned a tad metallic at the finish, taking time to flesh out with emerging plummy notes.
2006 Vieux Chateau Certan (courtesy of Philippe Capdouze), popped and poured at Jiang Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel, Singapore, 04 Feb 2016. This wine opened with an earthy pungency along with some grassy elements on the nose, medium-bodied, harmonious and rounded but notably rich in glorious black fruits and dark currants with traces of soy on the palate where the intensity and excitement are enhanced by supple tannins, gaining further intensity over time. Excellent.
2008 Vina Alberdi, popped and poured from the restaurant list of La Taperia, 05 Feb 2016. This is a lovely wine with a predominant plummy note amidst red fruits and red currants, bright, aromatic and rounded with overtones of camphor and sweet incense. Worth seeking out.
2011 Au Bon Climat (courtesy of Li Fern), popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. Red cherries and a hint of raspberries of understated intensity and sweetness, displaying excellent purity and balance. Excellent.
Joseph Perrier Brut Rose (courtesy of Hsiang Sui), popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. Notes of grapefruit with traces of red apples and tangerines. Dry and minerally. Could do with slightly more forward fruit balance.
2008 Ch Leoville Poyferre (courtesy of Vic), popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. Aromatic bouquet of roses and redcurrants. Fresh, rounded with earthy tones and a mild tarry quality on the palate, displaying fine acidity and definition with slightly dry textures. Excellent balance.
2006 Ch Lynch-Bages (courtesy of Choon Jin), popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. Attractive earthy pungency on the nose, medium-bodied with a classic Pauillac dryness, somewhat underwhelming, seemingly austere and sullen. Needs more time?
2000 Coonawarra Reserve cabernet sauvignon, popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. One of my perennial favourites but not slowing well here with predominant vegetal tones, earth and dark plums, awkward and disjointed.
2005 Anamorphosis (courtesy of Hsiang Sui), popped and poured at S S ENT, 05 Feb 2016. Rich in warm ripe Barossa shiraz, dominated by licorice, vanilla and dark chocolate with mild medicinal overtones, rather tense and firm on the palate, ending in metallic finish.
2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, aired in bottle for almost an hour prior to serving at Tunglok Signatures, 05 Feb 2016, on the occasion of Mom’s 85th. This is a bottle that I have faithfully cellared since its release. Somewhat lean initially with aromas of sweet citrus and petroleum, it blossomed beautifully after 60 minutes into a full-bodied complex of pineapples, mangoes, lychees, nectarine and apricot with overtones of sweet incense, highly supple in spite of its fabulous intensity and concentration that trailed all the way to its long lasting finish, the sweetness never getting in the way. Outstanding now, even though I don’t think it is anywhere near full maturity.
2009 Ch Le Doyenne, popped and poured at dinner on the eve of Lunar New Year, 07 Feb 2016. This wine still boasts rich luxuriant ripe blackberries and dark currants but there is now a trace of hardness on the mid-palate that wasn’t present before, its tannins as supple as ever but not gelling as well with the fruit. This may be the start of an awkward period for this over-achieving table wine. Best to let it rest for some time.
2008 Montevertine, decanted on-site at Yan Ting, St Regis Hotel Singapore, 18 Feb 2016. This wine has a lovely glow of cedar and raspberries on the nose with attractive musky overtones though, on the whole, it is rather restrained. Powerful notes of plums and tangerine dominate on the palate although textures are open and relaxed, structured through sweet supple tannins and fine acidity, just a tad feminine. Very fine.
2009 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er rouge (courtesy of Chee Wee), popped and drunk very quickly at Glen after hours, 22 Feb 2016. This wine is highly elegant, impressing on the nose with aromatic floral nuances while raspberries and camphor dominate on the palate with traces of incense, smooth and rounded, displaying very good depth of fruit and concentration, slightly cedary with some early complexity without the burliness nor vegetal tones that tend to characterise the reds from the Cote de Beaune. Lovely. Located next to Pommard, Clos des Mouches is planted with both chardonnay and pinot noir.
2009 Bethel Heights pinot noir, hand-carried to Singapore by Professor William Young four years ago (where it had lain in my cellar since) and shared with him at Majestic Bay seafood restaurant, 25 Feb 2016. Aired in bottle for 30 minutes prior. This Oregon pinot displays overtones of seared caramel and raisins, just a bit too flat and one-dimensional, unfortunately, lacking delicacy, freshness and complexity.
2001 D’Arenberg Dead Arm shiraz, decanted for over an hour prior to serving at Majestic Bay seafood restaurant, 25 Feb 2016. My very last bottle from a half case that I have cellared since 2004. Displaying characteristic richness and concentration, this flagship wine offers an abundance of warm ripe shiraz fruit, licorice, dark chocolates, dark currants and black fruits of excellent intensity and balance, cloaked in silky smooth tannins, finishing with mint and a dash of spice. Not at all jammy, and far more sophisticated than usual for a McLaren Vale shiraz. Excellent.
2012 Vincent Girardin Bourgogne blanc, popped and poured over dimsum lunch at Asia Grand, 27 Feb 2016. This is a rather half-hearted effort. Decent notes of cream and chalky minerals are not met by sufficient fruit, resulting in some hollowness that does not equate with delicacy. Disappointing.
1996 Bordeaux
Bacchus met, again after a long absence, on 28 January 2016 for a 1996 Bordeaux horizontal. Chris and Vincent had very kindly made available Lienville as the venue for fine dining, where we had the privilege of a private chef prepare for us a bespoke traditional French cuisine in its kitchen. As we awaited the arrival of all guests, Vincent served up a free flow of 1999 Salon S champagne that showed a fair degree of restraint on the nose although it was, expectedly, dry with a dominant tone of crisp citrus, toast and crème de la crème, very lively with plenty of verve, just a tad stern towards the finish with a graphite trace. As if this wasn’t enough, a 1996 Dom Perignon (courtesy of David Ong) was thrown in for good measure as well, displaying a slightly forward balance of green apples and melons underscored by a chromatic tone with a mild attractive pungency, subtle in both acidity and intensity on the palate, oozing with sweet citrus at its lengthy finish. Following on, the 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (courtesy of Kieron), was characteristically oily with fluid textures, medium-bodied with attractive notes of incense and fig, open on the palate with a certain lightness and subtle intensity.
The reds were served in three flights, basically traversing the Haut Medoc in a northerly fashion from Margaux. The 1996 Ch Figeac (courtesy of Vincent), displayed perfumed aromas of rose petals in its wonderful bouquet, highly aromatic and feminine with lovely traces of camphor, appropriately soft and rounded with fine acidity on the palate though not quite plumbing the depths, finishing with good length. Next, the 1996 Ch Palmer (courtesy of Victor) was equally aromatic with attractive notes of pines, wild flowers and earth, medium-full, absolutely harmonious in its blend of red and dark fruits that glowed with an irresistible fragrance all the way to its long minty finish. Wonderful stuff.
In the second flight, the 1996 Ch Montrose (courtesy of Pipin) produced a powerful glow of heated stones, dense tea leaves and a soy-like character that reflected the ripe red fruits and dark berries that imparted fabulous intensity, richness and structure, unmistakably masculine and yet to peak. 
Its neighbouring estate, the 1996 Ch Cos D’Estournel (courtesy of Chris), displayed intense aromas of roses and dark plums, very cedary on the nose though somewhat lean on the palate where it was open and relaxed, lacking the massive structure of the Montrose, tapering towards a stern minty finish. Traversing into Pauillac, the 1996 Ch Lynch-Bages had all the trappings of a classic claret, displaying a rich deep vein of ripe blueberries and dark berries that contrasted very well against dry textures of earth and snuff, open with subtle tannins, fleshing out very well, slightly minty at the finish.
The third flight pitted three estates in very close proximity. The 1996 Ch Leoville-Las-Cases (courtesy of Kieron) displayed powerful lifted aromas of complex tangerines and kumquat contrasted against red and dark currants, producing a perfumed fragrance unusual for the wines of this estate. On the palate, the wine was robust and structured, layered and fairly open at this stage although a mild tannic spine remained. It is always fascinating to compare the two Pichons (separated physically by just the two-lane D2 highway) from the same vintage. The 1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (courtesy of David Tan) offered a rose tinted bouquet of predominant red fruits that was well-replicated with excellent concentration and depth on the palate where it was open with supple tannins and just a slight vegetal hint that is typical of Pichon Lalande, unmistakably feminine, a touch minty at the finish. 
In contrast, the 1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron (courtesy of Daniel) opened with a mild bottle stink that dissipated soon enough, noticeably more masculine and deeper wine compared with Pichon Lalande, open with raspberries and blueberries of fabulous intensity along with overtones of tangerine.
Finally, a First Growth on its own to end the evening, served blind. Displaying a deep garnet red with just a trace of evolution at the rim, the wine was soft, rounded and distinctly feminine, offering red fruits and red roses of excellent concentration on the nose and palate with a hint of gravel, very correct in its balance, somewhat nonchalant and aloof in its demeanour. Most of us guessed a Mouton Rothschild, but it turned out to be the 1996 Ch Latour (courtesy of Li Fern). You just never know when a Latour will show up.
We concluded the evening with a 1996 Muller-Catoir Haardter-Burgergarten Riesling Eiswein (courtesy of Hiok) that offered great concentration and intensity of nectar, apricot, honey, pineapples and tropical fruits, displaying fine acidity and immense complexity. My sincere thanks to everyone for their kind generosity.
1990 Ch Montrose, 1982 Joseph Perrier, 1990 Les Forts de Latour
These are short notes from a dinner at Chef Kang’s on 26 Jan 2016 with all wines generously supplied by SKY (don’t we all aspire to be like him?), all aired in advance on-site, paired with Chef Kang’s unique creations plus another whole lot of crab beehoon and oyster omelette from Sin Huat.
1982 Joseph Perrier Brut. Poured from magnum. Second time within a year that I am privileged to have tasted this champagne that was served at William and Kate’s wedding. This wine carries an abundance of apricot, peaches and plums, fabulously intense on the palate with toasty characters, yeast and lime in a rich complex, yet lithe without any heaviness, displaying excellent acidity and definition, just a tad stern at the finish. Beautiful.
2003 Ch Brane Cantenac. Aromatic with attractive floral fragrance and red plums, medium-bodied, displaying cedary and raisiny characters that have turned slightly medicinal, rounded and soft, firming up very well on the palate although, like many 2003s of the Left Bank, a tad short. A classic example where the wine is better on the nose than on the palate.
1986 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut. Poured from magnum. Restrained with notes of toast and pomelo that went very well with the ultra-fine gentle bubbles, seemingly dipping in acidity on the mid-body but redeeming itself very well after some time, establishing a certain richness coupled with excellent concentration of firm citrus and chalky minerality that led to a sweet finish. Excellent.
1990 Les Forts de Latour. This wine is beautifully evolved, exuding powerful aromas of red plums, red fruits, dates and cinnamon, rounded and absolutely harmonious, velvety in layering with overtones of camphor in its hallowed glow. More feminine compared with the grand vin but all the better as it exudes a distinct identity in its own right. Superb.
1990 Ch Montrose. Still deep garnet red with barely a vermilion rim after 25 years, this wine possesses an attractive earthy pungency well-matched with dry tobacco characters on the nose. A complex of ripe dark and red fruits saturates the palate, imparting a fabulous intensity and richness with an abundance of soy and concentrated tea leaves, voluptuous and alluring, yet still youthful and seemingly a long way from its peak. Outstanding, and no wonder why it’s labelled a 100-pointer. A complete wine.
My heartfelt thanks, once again, to SKY for the generous line-up.
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is usually the first name that comes to mind when one mentions the wines of Chambolle-Musigny. Founded centuries ago in 1450, this estate has the largest holdings in Musigny Grand Cru (7.2 ha) and Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (2.7 ha). Considering that many consider Musigny to be the finest of red burgundy after Romanee-Conti, this places the estate in the most enviable of pole positions. The vines of Comte Georges de Vogue in Musigny are located mostly over the south-eastern slopes, the ideal prime location, grown over eroded limestone soils overlooking Clos Vougeot further south and Amoureuses to the north-east. Fortunately for us, the estate’s sales director M. Jean-Luc Pepin enjoys coming to Singapore and, for some time now, Alvin Seah of Domaine Wines has been organising an annual dinner at Jade Palace featuring only the top cru of Comte de Vogue with Jean-Luc in attendance, where I was lucky enough to obtain a ticket for this year’s dinner on January 16. The wines were served in 3 flights – Les Amoureuses, Bonnes-Mares and Musigny – each flight pitting 1995 against 1998. While the latter may impress initially with its forward fruit balance and drive, it is the former that possesses consistently finer balance, structure and complexity.
2008 Michel Arnould et Fils Carte d’Or Grand Cru. Pinot noir and chardonnay in equal proportion. Notes of high-toned citrus with light touches of morning dew and toast, vibrant with fine acidity and definition, persistent at the finish. Very fine.
2008 Michel Arnould et Fils Blanc de Noirs Memoire de Vignes Grand Cru. Highly aromatic with a suggestion of depth from an abundance of lime and pomelo though, on the palate, this wine possesses more breadth than depth with transparent textures. Made from 100% pinot noir. Excellent.
1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er. Predominant notes of mint, spice and orange peel on the nose, displaying very good presence and concentration on the palate with overtones of cedar, smooth and feminine through its lack of tannic structure, eventually dominated by an attractive plummy note with trailing red fruits. I’d expected more complexity, but I guess Les Amoureuses at its best will always be a wine of understated elegance and purity.
1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er. Noticeably tighter, excellent in concentration of red fruits and dark berries, more cedary and structured though somewhat stern at the finish, characterised by a slight burliness that was absent from the 1995.
1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Beautifully evolved, this grand cru that extends seamlessly northwards into Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambertin features ripe dark plums, appropriately cedary on the palate where it is remarkably open and relaxed with a quiet intensity in spite of its massive structure and masculinity, still imbued with superb acidity and freshness. Those seeking absolute purity of fruit would be well-advised to lay the 1995 Bonnes-Mares for several more years. Outstanding.
1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Forward balance of red fruits, slightly austere initially, tight and spicy at the edges, gradually developing supple tannins that led to a lasting finish though still missing the finesse and elegance of the 1995.
1995 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru. Expectations are almost stratospheric for the pinnacle of Chambolle-Musigny and the 1995 does not disappoint. In spite of its restrained bouquet, this wine is absolutely beautiful on the palate where it is smooth, satiny and opulent, structured with highly supple tannins, displaying great definition, harmony, layering and balance. Don’t expect any knockout punches. This Musigny grand cru is a an elegant beauty that draws you in with her great composure. A complete wine.
1998 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru. Equally restrained as well, the 1998 displays more forward characters of red and dark berries amidst a cedary backdrop but clearly lacking in layering and complexity, only opening up after some time with a mild intensity that doesn’t quite evoke a visceral response.
Ric's Wine Journal 