Feb 2014: 1986 Tour du Haut Moulin, 1986 Gruaud Larose, 1996 Pichon Baron, 2005 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay…
2006 Peccavi chardonnay, popped and poured at Roland restaurant, 2 Feb 2014. An abundance of cream and buttery notes with a touch of light citrus and pomelo, coupled with crisp minerality. Leaner compared with its Margaret River cousin the Leeuwin below and certainly more transparent as a result. A good drop.
2009 Domain Road pinot noir, aired in bottle for about 45 minutes prior to serving at Roland restaurant, 2 Feb 2014. Consistent with previous tasting notes, this pinot from Central Otago is a bit too dark and dense for its own good, imparting a certain heaviness on the palate that cannot be camouflaged by notes of dark cherries, raspberries and wild flowers.
2005 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, aired in bottle for 30 minutes prior to serving at Imperial Treasure T3, 6 Feb 2014, on the occasion of Mom’s 83rd birthday. Highly aromatic, generous dose of crème de la crème, rich buttery spread, cashews and a touch of vanilla, supported by crisp minerality and fresh acidity on the palate, turning a tad stern with a dash of steeliness creeping in at the finish after some time. In spite of its relative opulence, I feel it still lacks the last ounce of real complexity and typicity that comes so easily with actual Burgundy.
1986 Ch Gruaud Larose (courtesy of Ellen), at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner at the Pan Pacific hotel, 7 Feb 2014. Dull dusty red in color, fully matured, but now displaying a certain awkwardness and disjoint. The bouquet is certainly quite enticing with notes of toast, sultanas, old leather, cinnamon and cedar all served up in a generous glow, but doesn’t quite live up to its promise on the palate where the fruit is alarmingly short, just a shell of spicy alcohol and acidity. 
Perhaps this bottle hasn’t been properly stored, for I don’t recall this wine to be in danger of fading when I last had it in 2012. Will reserve judgement.
1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron (courtesy of Ellen), at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner at the Pan Pacific hotel, 7 Feb 2014. Popped and poured. The initial bouquet is dominated by an overwhelming earthy pungency that blew off quite quickly, allowing the classic Pauillac signature of snuff box, dried mushrooms and tea leaves to appear. The fruit, a good balance of red and dark berries with a touch of camphor, is still rather backward, the wine stern and structured, veering towards a slight excess of dryness, robbing it of opulence and charm. But this is still very fine, nonetheless.
2001 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (courtesy of Ellen), at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner at the Pan Pacific hotel, 7 Feb 2014. Popped and poured. Something distinctly distressing about this bottle, the wine appearing much more evolved than expected for a 2001, dry and weedy and alarmingly short of fruit. I don’t recall the 2001 Pichon Lalande being in danger of fading the last time I had it 3 years ago. Must be a poorly-kept bottle.
2007 Meo Carmuzet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru (courtesy of Ellen), at Parkway Pantai’s Lunar New Year dinner at the Pan Pacific hotel, 7 Feb 2014. Popped and poured. Notes of strawberries and cherries dominate along with some earth and leafy overtones but, again, the fruit is rather backward and uninspiring, rendering the wine almost nondescript. Not befitting of its Grand Cru status.
2008 Reynella Basket Pressed shiraz, popped and poured at Bistro 103, 8 Feb 2014. I’d been searching for this McLaren Vale single vineyard shiraz ever since I tasted it at the cellar door of Hardy’s back in Dec 2012, but absolutely to no avail in Singapore. I finally chanced upon it at duty-free at Jakarta international airport. Full-bodied and dense, displaying an excellent concentration of red plums, licorice, dark currants, black pepper and roasted meat, rich and savoury and utterly smooth with very fine tannins, slightly spicy towards the finish. Very well crafted, though I’d say it’s still a notch below the Elderton Command shiraz as well as Hardy’s own Eileen Hardy shiraz, but the latter sells for twice the price. Very good.
2010 Denis Mortet Bourgogne Rouge de Noble Souche, popped and poured after hours at Arden Endocrinology, 12 Feb 2014. This wine has some good things going for it, in spite of its generic status. It took quite a while for the fruit to emerge but when it did, there was enough of fragrant red cherries and strawberries to balance against the rich salty minerality, though there wasn’t much in complexity and depth. Definitely agreeable at below SGD50.
2006 Ch Smith Haut Lafitte, decanted for 2 hours prior to tasting at home to an afternoon of music from the great masters, 16 Feb 2014. Dark red with very good concentration and balance of predominantly dark berries and blackcurrants with occasional bright notes, the wine largely tempered by a distinct ferrous minerality that, I suppose, is the contribution of the Pessac-Leognan terroir. It became more relaxed and open with further aeration, with eventual notes of raspberries, coffee and mocha emerging, rounded and supple. A good drop, provided the price is right.
2005 Kilkanoon cabernet sauvignon, a glass courtesy of SS, to go with a USDA ribeye at Pasar Bella, Turf City, 21 Feb 2014. Dark and opague, disjointed notes of licorice, mocha, twigs and more than a touch of green and wild berries. I don’t think Clare Valley is suitable for cabernet.
2000 Ch Grand Corbin at Imperial Treasure T3, 25 Feb 2014. Popped and poured. Deep purple. Generous with aromas of blueberries, soy, violets and herbs, quite full on the palate where the excellent ripeness of the grapes make a delicious impact, laced with sweet glycerin and some earthiness, that led to a long and lasting finish, albeit with a touch of ferrous austerity, gaining in breadth and depth of fruit after an hour with further aeration and food. At SGD89, this is excellent value.
1986 Ch Tour du Haut Moulin, popped and poured at Foo House, 26 Feb 2014. At only SGD65, with its capsule and fill level looking quite pristine, it was definitely worth a gamble. Its cork was dessicated, but the wine turned out fine. Dull dusty red and, as expected, lowish in acidity and alcohol with tannins that had dissipated long ago, but the fruit was still quite well and alive, offering notes of tangerine, red plums and cedar, rustic in feel and texture. 
Somewhat soft, but it put on weight very well over the next hour, snapping into focus and broadening in intensity although the fruit was beginning to fade. A good drop, by any standard.
2009 Ch Macay, popped and poured at Iroha, a teppanyaki establishment run by chef Akimasa Sekiguchi and his wife at 392 East Coast Road. I had high hopes for this Cotes de Bourg, having had a strong 2007 before. However, the 2009 was far too backward, resulting in a medium-bodied wine dominated more by graphite minerality and wood. Certainly, it grew in intensity with more of raspberries and dark cherries emerging to match the acidity, but it could do with more body, concentration and weight. In spite of the stellar vintage, this came across more like a second wine of a lesser growth.
Hugel & Fils in Singapore
I had the opportunity to attend a lunch organised by the Alsace Wine & Gastronomy Society, courtesy of its founder Julian Teoh, on 11 Jan 2014 at Bar-Rouge, Amara Hotel, Singapore, featuring the wines of the famous Alsace producer and negociant Hugel et Fils with its proprietor Etienne Hugel, and his lovely Japanese wife, in attendance. 
Stephan (and his mother!) conjured up a meal that would have been perfect for any table in the south of France and we were set.
To start the afternoon rolling, the 2008 Hugel Pinot Gris Jubilee was served as the aperitif while we waited for everyone to arrive, muted with a faint grassy note though it was much better on the palate, displaying good weight with notes of tropical fruits and burnt sugar although it still came across as somewhat simple.
Once we were seated, Etienne poured an unusual entity in the line-up, a 2008 Hugel Pinot Noir Jubilee that was quite correct in color but otherwise nondescript, with just faint notes of red cherries that was really unremarkable. Stick with real Burgundy. 
This was followed by the 1998 Gewurztraminer Hommage a Jean Hugel that was most promising on the nose with an abundance of lychee and honey though its acidity was beginning to slip, lacking complexity and depth initially although this was soon corrected with food.
The real charge began thereafter with the 2009 Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive, which was a notable step up in sweetness compared to what had been tasted earlier, delicate in minerality, remarkably balanced and smooth with some lovely complexity at the finish. Excellent. The 2012 Hugel Lentil that followed was considerably lighter in body, grassy with refreshing crisp citrus, becoming weightier after some aeration.
The highlight of the afternoon was a quartet of Hugel Riesling Jubilee which provided scope for some fascinating comparison. The 2007 displayed subtle hints of tropical fruits and floral notes, painting the palate with broad bold strokes of great concentration and intensity, already fairly open with a lovely breadth and depth, superb potential but still far from ready. The 2010 was similarly intense but tighter with an abundance of nectarine and a dash of apricot. The 2001, with the advantage of bottle age, was, not surprisingly, the best of the lot, most enticing with lifted aromas of sweet nectar and honey, open with complex minerality and a wonderful mouthfeel, tapering to a long lasting finish. Drinking superbly. Holding its ground alongside the rest was the 2005, again excellent in concentration, smoky with notes of burnt sugar and tropical fruit amidst its crystalline minerality, growing in intensity over time with a mild steely note towatds the finish.
Perhaps the best was left till the end. The 2009 Hugel Riesling Selection de Grains Nobles was lively and deep with primary characters of apricot, burnt caramel, honey and nectarine, rematkably balanced and long and obviously will require considerable cellaring to develop its full potential. And finally, the piece de resistance, in the form of the 1999 Hugel Riesling Selection de Grains Nobles, displaying a deep luscious golden hue, was still laced with just the right degree of subtle acidity in spite of considerable bottle age, multi-dimensional with dominant notes of deep honey and caramel, absolutely superb in its purity, depth and length. Quite sensational, bringing the afternoon to a very satisfying conclusion. Thanks, Julian.
One Or 100
I had the privilege of attending a fund-raising dinner at Gardens By The Bay, Singapore, 28 Nov 2013, part of The Giving Tree project organised by NUHS in aid of the less fortunate. Given that the evening’s theme was all about giving generously, and this being a black-tie event, I didn’t think it was too difficult for like-minded members of Bacchus, conveniently placed at the same table, to match the lofty wine theme of “One Or 100”, meaning a Bordeaux First Growth (or its recognised equivalent, non-Bordeaux estates accepted as well) or a wine rated 100 points by Robert Parker Jr. No other planning was done and when I showed up, it was good to find that everyone had matched up perfectly. In fact, w
hat a stunning line-up it turned out to be, and it was no surprise that even people like Ignatius Chan (of Iggy’s fame), Timothy Goh (Les Amis) and Angelina Teh (Bordeaux Index) all gravitated to our table. All wines were aired in bottle between 30-60 minutes prior to tasting.
As Vinum Fine Wines was one of the proud sponsors of this event, it was not surprising to find a free flow of one of their agency brands, Bruno Paillard Premier Cuvee Brut NV, as the aperitif. This was quite lovely, displaying subdued citrus with measured notes of nutmeg, white roses, vanilla and sweet pomelo, very well-balanced with further notes of toast and yeast appearing much later.
We began south of Bordeaux city with the 1999 Ch Haut Brion (courtesy Vic) which, to our surprise, still appeared primal, utterly rich with a smooth intensity that yielded a superb mouthfeel with traces of vanillin oak still discernible amidst the sophisticated fine supple tannins, already quite open at this stage and becoming accessible now, growing in complexity over time as further notes of bright cherries and raspberries emerged, lifting its aromatics to greater heights. Totally under-rated, and I’d suggest you get a case of this if the price is right. A superb start.
It was a distinct pleasure to taste the next two wines together. I’ve heard and read so much about the 1998 Penfolds Grange (courtesy Danny) ever since I got hooked on wine but this was the first time I’ve had a chance to experience it. Contrary to popular belief, Aussie reds can age really well and this bottle of Grange proves that point. A deep and generous bouquet of menthol, mint and herbs from the wonderfully ripe shiraz led to an expansive canvas of dark plums and tangerine on the palate, utterly rich and opulent, the expert craftsmanship ensuring the wine remained at ease in spite of its hedonistic qualities, tapering to a long and lasting finish. Purists will object to the multi-district blend of shiraz that Penfolds favours for its Grange, but one could easily be persuaded that it works. Truly one of the very best examples of Aussie shiraz that I’ve had, masculine and lithe as opposed to the enticing grace and elegance of its great rival, Henschke’s Hill of Grace. Great stuff. 
Tasted alongside, the 1998 Vega Sicilia Unico was just as effusive on the nose, but distinctly more Old World in character with complex characters of cedar, cinnamon, red plums and kumquat, medium-full and beautifully layered and open. Highly distinctive, leaving a more lasting impression thanks to its ever-evolving complexity over time compared to the Grange. Really excellent.
The next three wines were truly outstanding. The 1995 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy Pipin), exhibited an ample lovely pungency of mushrooms, snuff box and earth, leaping out of the glass along with a powerful glow of tea leaves and dried plums only possible from a Bordeaux breed of distinction. The palate is saturated with ripe dark berries, black fruits and a dash of red plums, superbly balanced, matched by sophisticated tannins to produce great structure and definition all the way to its lasting finish. A great Mouton, which made it all the more difficult to believe that it could be so different from a similar bottle tasted back in 2011 at a Mouton vertical (see Feb 2011). Paired with this was the 1996 Ch Latour (courtesy Hiok), which had the advantage of having been double-decanted prior to dinner. Well, there isn’t much about this estate that hasn’t been said or written about, safe to say that it outshone the Mouton in breadth and depth. 
Whereas the Mouton had seemed exuberant, perhaps even hedonistic in the French manner, the Latour was the perfect study in understatement, layered with glorious black fruits, dark currants and complex minerality of unfathomable depth, yet poised and relaxed on the palate, utterly natural and effortless in establishing its identity whilst further nuances of cinnamon and cedar continued to unfold over time. Truly outstanding.
And, finally, for the piece de resistance, a wine that hit the target for the theme on both counts, the 1986 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy KP), a wine that, thanks to the generosity of fellow Bacchusians, I’ve had the privilege of tasting on several occasions, never failing in its consistency. In spite of its age, the 1986 Mouton tastes only like all of 10 years, complex, big and open, superbly balanced, yielding gorgeous definition with great depth of redcurrants, dark berries and a touch of tar, remarkably smooth and effortless in expression, its Pauillac signature remaining understated. The perfect wine? Perhaps, but this has been a perfect line-up for a wonderful evening of dining and camaraderie. Thanks, Kieron, and to everyone at Bacchus for their contributions.
Chateau Angelus 1993 & 1996
A casual dinner at Burlamacco Ristorante, 22 Oct 2013, where John and I happened to bring a bottle each of Ch Angelus without having made any prior arrangement. Great minds, indeed. Both were decanted on-site. To my surprise, the 1993 (courtesy John) proved to be robust and full with notes of red fruits, plum and cinnamon, solid and almost angular on the palate. This rusticity took time to settle, whereupon the initial nose of earth, saddle and aniseed had transformed into quite a lovely bouquet of rose petals and cherries, while its angularity gave way to svelte tightly-knitted tannins, though missing in charm. It remained this way till the last pour, where a metallic quality became discernible at the finish. 
To some extent, the 1993 shared similar qualities with the clarets of 1994. Under-rated, and would prove to be an astute buy if the price is right.
In contrast, the 1996 showed up the deficiencies of the above right from the start, its distinctive fragrance and lifted floral bouquet led to an open wine with supple textures, the notes of dark currants, ripe berries and a hint of cabernet franc carrying a lot more depth, layering and balance compared to the 1993, with a mild medicinal note creeping in towards the last pour. This bottle is more fruit-forward and preferable compared to a previous one tasted in February 2012 (which had seemed dry and backward), replete with substantial sur-maturite and typicity of a well-aged claret. Nevertheless, it still lacks the opulence and charm of Angelus from the best years. I doubt it will improve much further.
Dec 2013: 1998 Ducru Beaucaillou, 2002 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, 2001 Cos D’Estournel, 2009 Jean Marc Baudot “Genevrières” 1er…
2011 Riorret Pinot Noir, over lunch at Locale, the restaurant of de Bortoli at the heart of Yarra Valley, Australia, 2 Dec 2013. Made from grapes from a single vineyard in Mornington Peninsula. Appropriately earthy with enough delicacy on the fruit, but this is soon overwhelmed by the salty minerality that became more dominant over time, restricting the spectrum of flavours.
2010 Denis Pommier Petit Chablis, at PM24, Melbourne, 3 Dec 2013. Popped and poured. Lively with classic buttery notes and creme de la creme, supported by subtle minerality that avoids the usual flinty chalkiness, generous in body and depth, the acidity subdued but increasing in intensity over time. Very fine.
2005 Rymill Cabernet Sauvignon, at PM24, Melbourne, 3 Dec 2013. This is a grossly under-rated estate from Coonawarra that I’ve long admired ever since I drank a bottle of its 1997 Shiraz in 2004 and came away impressed with its ability to age so well. At AUD92, the 2005 Rymill cabernet is one of the cheapest listings in PM24’s expensive wine list, but it is an astute choice. Adequate bottle age has ensured the development of secondary characteristics, the wine exuding mature notes of cedar, leather, cinnamon, cassis, earth and a dash of apricot amidst flavours of redcurrants and plums, generous in body and depth with subdued tannins. Excellent.
Carbochon NV, a prosecco at Grossi Florentino, Melbourne, 4 Dec 2013. Toasty oak with plenty of fig and yeasty notes, highly lifted, becoming more intense over time, finishing on a austere note of graphite.
2007 Stift Veltliner, at Grossi Florentino, Melbourne, 4 Dec 2013. Luscious golden tone, quietly intense with mild characters of apricot and nectarine without the sweetness, taking an austere turn towards the finish, in keeping with its Austrian origin.
2007 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino, at Grossi Florentino, Melbourne, 4 Dec 2013. I was hoping this would have begun to mellow (my choices severely limited by the expensive wine list) but this wine is still intense and youthful, producing powerful aromas of raspberries, dark currants and dark plums, structured with traces of vanilla and enamel. Difficult to pair with food at this stage.
2013 Skillogalee Riesling, at The Atlantic restaurant, Melbourne, 5 Dec 2013. Comes across as very clean and pure, saturated with notes of lemongrass and banana peel, lifted with excellent depth and plenty of fat in the mid-body, excellent balance between the clear minerality and fresh acidity without excessive crispness. Great linearity, leading to a harmonious finish. An excellent example of what Clare Valley is capable.
2006 Geoff Merrill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, decanted on-site at The Atlantic restaurant, Melbourne, 5 Dec 2013. Nicely layered. Leathery in texture, saturated with cinnamon, earth and plums, almost resembling tempranillo. Became weightier over time, well-integrated, savoury and structured with tight tannins. Not for purists.
Bollinger Special Cuvée NV, at Il Bacaro Cucina, Melbourne, 5 Dec 2013. Lovely golden hue, fairly deep on the nose with notes of toast, yeast, malt and roasted cashews. Firm on the palate with a broad even minerality, the acidity and dryness just a tad overzealous but I’d imagine it’ll settle very well given adequate aeration.
2011 Katnook Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon, a bottle already opened at the Krisflyer lounge of Melbourne airport, 6 Dec 2013. Deep purple with notes of red plums, red apple skin and raspberries with a significant contribution of forest floor, twigs and green. A far cry from the quality of Rymill.
2011 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class from Melbourne to Singapore, 6 Dec 2013. Attractive pungency, beneath which are powerful emerging notes of lime, citrus, tropical fruits, pomelo and rock melons. Soft, well balanced, subdued and slightly austere towards the finish. More lifted over time with emerging notes of fig and white flowers.
2011 Stonier Chardonnay, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class from Melbourne to Singapore, 6 Dec 2013. Controlled bouquet. Lifted notes of cream and caramel with traces of butter and vanilla and chalky minerality. Medium-bodied and well balanced. Very attractive..
2009 Château Labadie, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class from Melbourne to Singapore, 6 Dec 2013. Muted on the nose, offering dark currants, dusty in texture and tannins with notes of green and twigs. A rather poor choice for a premium class of travel. Their other Bordeaux offering – 2009 Ch Loudenne – is much preferable (see Sep 2013 post), but unavailable on this flight.
2011 Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz’, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class from Melbourne to Singapore, 6 Dec 2013. R ipe warm Barossa shiraz with traces of licorice, medicinal and herbal notes underscored by ferrous minerality. Not at all overwhelming but neither is it convincing. Doesn’t gel until the end.
2009 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin, decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 17 Dec 2013. Classic Old World character of cherries, cranberries, earth and minerality and old wood, beautifully proportioned and balanced although it is rather reticent on the nose in spite of persistent coaxing. Good depth and ripeness, but closed. I suspect this wine is in the process of shutting down. Best to re-visit after 4-5 years.
2002 Clos du Marquis (courtesy of Ben), at the ward dinner at Foo House, 17 Dec 2013. Fairly open, replete with tea leaves, snuff and mushrooms, the classic dry character of Saint Julien bordering on Pauillac. Lacks charm and real concentration, however, symptomatic of the vintage. Ultimately nondescript.
2002 Barossa Old Vines shiraz, poured from magnum, at Foo House, 17 Dec 2013. Entirely consistent with expectations. Full-bodied, warm, ripe and savoury, saturated with heavy medicinal notes leading to a hot spicy finish.
1998 Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz, (courtesy of John), at Foo House, 17 Dec 2013. Not very different from the Barossa Old Vines above in spite of its bottle age, savoury with concentrated notes of sweet meat, licorice and plum, medicinal and spicy at the finish.
Conte Balduino NV, at Burlamacco Ristorante, 18 Dec 2013. Unlike most prosecco, this bottle is simply quite excellent, displaying plenty of depth and a fair semblance of complexity with notes of yellow citrus, green melons, toast, roasted nuts and traces of vanilla, the subtle bubbles ensuring an excellent mouthfeel.
2002 Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, decanted on-site at Burlamacco, 18 Dec 2013. Slightly reticent initially, eventually displaying generous notes of sweet citrus, pomelo and a dash of tropical fruit with a hint of vanilla, much more developed than before . Layered with very good depth of fruit though within a fairly narrow spectrum, more sharp and steely towards the finish after some time before finally evening out, attaining further level of richness towards the end of dinner. Very good, but Bonneau du Martray remains unsurpassed for CC.
2010 Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato, SGD118 off the restaurant list of Burlamacco, 18 Dec 2013. Popped and poured after brief airing in bottle. Distinct earthy pungency (I love it) on the nose, beneath which lay dense redcurrants and dark berries with some enamel and undergrowth coming on after some time, framed by tight tannins, its lovely pungency taking on a more urgent note over time. In spite of its youth, one could sense that this isn’t quite New World in character. Excellent value, I’d imagine, if purchased off a retailer.
1998 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, decanted on-site at Burlamacco, 18 Dec 2013. This wine has mellowed beautifully over the past few years, developing an early sur-maturite with a soft lovely pungency beneath which are understated dark berries and raspberries, excellent in focus and definition, taking on a powerful glow and concentration over the course of dinner whilst its acidity and silky tannins ensured a lively balance and structure. 
Consistent with a bottle tasted last year (courtesy of Danny), but it is even better on this occasion, perhaps just missing the usual graphite minerality of Saint Julien. Excellent.
2007 Domaine Louis Jadot Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru (courtesy of Dr Wang KW at his residence), 19 Dec 2013, a bottle already opened for a day, but sealed and chilled. Rather short on fruit, the thin notes of citrus struggling to match the dry stony minerality. Hardly representative of what can be achieved with Meursault.
2008 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, popped and poured, courtesy of Dr Wang KW at his residence, 19 Dec 2013. Significantly heavier in color and tone than the preceding Meursault with an abundance of roasted cashews, chalky minerality and a dash of creamy buttery character from the ripe citrus. Doesn’t quite possess the depth and opulence of its rival cousin Domaine Leflaive, but enjoyable enough.
2011 Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay, at the department’s year-end dinner at The Edge, Pan Pacific Singapore, 23 Dec 2013. From the half case that just arrived from Yarra Valley. Notes of cool vanilla icing and cream supported by clear crisp minerality, very good in concentration but somewhat closed at this stage.
2005 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon. Aired in bottle and drunk over two hours at the department’s year-end dinner at The Edge, Pan Pacific Singapore, 23 Dec 2013. Excellent concentration of raspberries, blueberries and redcurrants framed by lithe supple tannins that gave a highly satisfying mouthfeel, though still primal at this stage. However, the wine is marred by traces of menthol, spicy mint and undergrowth that rose to an unprecedented level of prominence over time, imparting a bright, dense and heavy medicinal note that is simply inappropriate for cabernet sauvignon. Very worrying.
2000 Château Lascombes, (courtesy of John) at the department’s year-end dinner at The Edge, Pan Pacific Singapore, 23 Dec 2013. Some snuff and perfume amidst dusty tannins. Mellow dark berries but could do with greater presence. More open after some food but it remained uneven in tone. A poor effort in spite of the stellar vintage.
2000 Château Lagrange, (courtesy of John) at the department’s year-end dinner at The Edge, Pan Pacific Singapore, 23 Dec 2013. Perfumed nose of red fruits with a suggestion of sweetness, but dominated by notes of dark berries and soy, dense and fairly full with the unmistakable graphite minerality of Saint-Julien. Developed traces of medicinal overtones over time, becoming sweeter and more delicious at the same time.
Champagne Moet et Chandon Brut Imperiale NV, at a family gathering on Christmas Eve. Good concentration of lime and citrus, green apples and melons shaded by toast and walnuts, pretty generous but a tad too dry. Very agreeable, though.
1998 Château Lanessan, popped and poured on Christmas Eve. Disappointing on this occasion, the fruit backward, obstructed by dusty tannins. Dry.
2012 Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz, at a Christmas BBQ, 25 Dec 2013. Aired in bottle for almost two hours. Tastes more like a Barossa shiraz, dense, heavy with wood and ripe warm fruit with notes of licorice, chocolate, spice and mint. I wouldn’t recommend.
2009 Jean Marc Baudot “Genevrières” 1er Cru, a Meursault specially bottled for Iggy’s with two bottles tasted off the restaurant list together, 26 Dec 2013, courtesy of Dr Wang. The first impression is almost New World, highly aromatic with generous notes of ripe tropical fruits, melons, peaches, pears, coconut with white flowers contributing to a perfumed lift and plenty of body supported by broad swathes of great minerality, producing great depth of fruit, richness and complexity all at once. Most unlike Meursault. More Montrachet. Superb but expensive at around SGD400 per bottle.
2001 Château Cos D’Estournel, two bottles brought to Iggy’s on 26 Dec 2013, part of a half dozen just shipped over from Bordeaux Index London. Bright deep purple. Excellent depth and concentration of dark berries, raspberries and violets, tarry in note but not texture, beautifully proportioned with supple subdued tannins in the background, layered with a mild salty minerality. Characters of mulberries, tea leaves and the seductive Bordeaux dryness coming on later, adding further to the superb definition. Yet to peak. Excellent.
2001 Elderton Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon, my last drop for 2013, over a home-cooked USDA Prime sirloin on New Year’s Eve. Aired in bottle for an hour. Still showing a dark inky red after all these years, the wine fairly dense and weighty with excellent ripeness of fruit that produced notes of blackcurrants, plums, cedar and undergrowth amidst a woody texture and, for some reason peculiar to Aussie reds, the inevitable notes of spicy mint, herbs and menthol aromas. Didn’t really evolve with further aeration. Although it can easily be bought online for only SGD55 (a lot cheaper than its release price), I don’t think I’ll miss it.
1983 Lynch Bages, 2002 Zind Humbrecht Goldert
These notes came from an excellent off-line meet-up with Julian Teoh, renowned food and wine critic and founder of the Alsace Society, Singapore, at La Barca, 20 Nov 2013, which I thought would be an occasion as good as any to pop my last bottle of the 1983 Ch Lynch-Bages, which was decanted on-site for 30-45 minutes prior to serving. What a phenomenal wine this turned out to be. Though obviously fully mature, the wine still radiated a lovely ruby glow that gave no hint at all of its 30 years while notes of rose petals and cherries of remarkable purity dominate initially, yet retaining excellent weight without any trace of hollowness. Any fear of it fading with prolonged aeration proved to be unfounded as it grew in weight and intensity over time, exuding layer upon layer of tertiary characteristics, glowing with utter complexity throughout the evening that typifies Bordeaux with just a dash of mint at its lengthy finish. 
One might have easily mistaken it for an aged Burgundy if blinded if not for its Pauillac signature of snuff, dried mushrooms and tea leaves, still intact after all these years. Superb.
The 2002 Zind Humbrecht Goldert (courtesy Julian) was just as glorious in its own way. Popped and poured after a brief period of aeration, this luminous golden liquid exuded notes of complex citrus, fig, nectarine and white flowers from the first pour, the lively acidity imparting a sense of freshness and excitement. It settled down after the initial euphoria with a nod towards emerging caramel and apricot before picking up in intensity again, producing a kaleidoscope of tropical fruit flavours and brilliant nectar underscored by a gentle steeliness from the graphite minerality, resembling in part, a spatlese, which is, perhaps, not all that suprising given that it is, after all, a gewurstraminer. I must admit my experience with Alsace is severely limited, but this tasting experience will certainly point me in that direction. Wonderful.
1998 Ch Haut-Brion
This wine came courtesy of John on the occasion of his promotion, 26 Nov 2013, over a seven-course degustation at The Rabbit Stash, a cosy but serious restaurant run by a husband-and-wife team at The Alexis, Singapore, certainly a dining venue that I can recommend wholeheartedly, especially as it is BYO on Tuesdays with stemware by Riedel, no less. 
We began the evening with a Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV, which was medium-full and fairly open on the palate with lively notes of fresh citrus, green apples, sweet pomelo, a dash of tropical fruits, walnuts, toast and traces of vanillin, drying out towards the finish as the wine gained further intensity over time.
Of the several different Haut-Brions I’ve had over the years, one seldom encounters the 1998 Ch Haut-Brion, which John pleasantly surprised me, having double decanted it for more than 3 hours earlier in the evening. Effusive notes of cordial and rose petals erupted from the glass, saturated with a perfumed fragrance that was impossible to dismiss. This medium-to-full bodied wine broadened over the palate with food and further aeration as notes of dark cherries and blackcurrants emerged towards the fore with a residual tinge of tangy citrus lurking in the background. As with all Haut-Brions, the balance is impeccable, the wine becoming highly focused and opulent (to be fair, a description seldom associated with Haut-Brion) as it gained depth over time with layers of early secondary development. Still far from its peak drinking period, and I’d suggest that anyone with an eye for value should seriously consider securing a half-case. Outstanding.
Notes from Yarra Valley: Coldstream Hills & Yering Station
These are brief tasting notes at the respective cellar doors of Coldstream Hills and Yering Station during a day trip to Yarra Valley, a region supposedly famed for its chardonnay and pinot noir just 50 km east of Melbourne, Australia, on 2 Dec 2013.
2010 Coldstream Hills sparkling pinot noir chardonnay. Lively green notes, crisp citrus, mildly yeasty, darker notes of pinot noir complementing well with chardonnay, attractive minerality, not too dry.
2012 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay. Lovely creaminess, buttery character, framed by graphite at the edges. Straightforward.
2012 Coldstream Hills Deer Farm single vineyard chardonnay, from a higher altitude. Noticeably deeper vein of minerality with balanced lively acidity.
2012 Coldstream Hills Rising Vineyard single vineyard chardonnay. More aromatic than the Deer Farm, more fat, fuller. Very attractive.
2011 Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay. Highly developed aromatics, displaying excellent depth and balance, stuffed with yellow citrus, very Burgundian. Excellent. We ordered a case to be shipped home.
2012 Coldstream Hills Deer Farm pinot noir. Bright red fruits, enamel, slightly savory but rustic at the edges. Lacks depth.
2012 Coldstream Hills reserve pinot noir. Darker in tone with a classic pinot character, very smooth but again missing in depth and complexity though lasting in finish.
2010 Coldstream Hills merlot. Aged in French oak. Big on the nose with plenty of spicy menthol, slightly medicinal, savory, peppered with occasional green notes.
2010 Yering Station estate chardonnay. Eucalyptus, cream, traces of green apples, pears. Rather simple.
2010 Yering Station estate pinot noir. Fairly deep aromatics, cherries, traces of redcurrants, earthy finish, lacks complexity.
2012 Yering Station Estate cabernet sauvignon. Saturated with redcurrants, chocolate, structured with well-integrated tannins peppered with mint, menthol, touch of earth.
2007 Yering Station Willow Lake chardonnay. Beautiful aromatics, lifted, dominated largely by stony minerality on palate, backward citrus, lemon, well-integrated but lacks layering. Better on the nose than palate.
2007 Yering Station Coombe Farm chardonnay. Lovely aromatics, peaches, cream, better integration of fruit and minerality though still lacking in layering.
2010 Yering Station reserve chardonnay. More intense, some creaminess and buttery characters, deeper vein of tropical fruit, very good weight, some early complexity, lasting finish. Quite classic. Quite excellent.
2012 Yering Station Reserve pinot noir. Strawberries, earth, some sancha, excellent teasing acidity, carries the right balance, delicate enough, lots of potential.
2010 Yering Station Reserve shiraz viognier. Deep and luscious with a lovely fragrance, full-bodied, fairly dense, proucing a spicy mouthfeel with plenty of ground pepper, wrapped in silky tannins. Very well crafted and tight, but more rustic in feel compared with an actual Rhone.
2010 Yering Station Old Beenak Road Reserve shiraz. Lifted redcurrants, blueberries, deep, plummy, early complexity, traces of tangerine, great delineation. Perhaps just slightly short. Lots of potential, though. I brought home a bottle.
Nov 2013: 1999 Rockford Basket Press, 1999 Leoville Las-Cases…
2007 La Pleaide, popped and poured at Bar-rouge, 01 Nov 2013. This Heathcote wine is supposedly a conjoint effort with M Chapoutier, which probably accounts for the highly refined presentation. Dark red, rather muted, but one senses layers of luxurious ripe shiraz beneath, which was exactly what transpired on the palate – cool, smooth, slightly creamy and rounded with notes of redcurrants, dark chocolate, mocha and plums, starting to show some layering at this stage with tannins that are superbly integrated, the entire wine so skilfully crafted such that there is absolutely no trace of its 15% alcohol. Certainly much more Rhone-like than Down Under. Excellent.
Pol Roger Brut Reserve NV from the list of Bar-rouge, 01 Nov 2013. Ticks all the right boxes. Deep toasty oak, yeasty, burnished tone, sophisticated minerality with notes of malt and citrus. Excellent balance and depth.
1999 Rockford Basket Press, decanted on-site at Jade Palace, 2 Nov 2013. In spite of its 14 years, the Basket Press remains a huge wine with all the trappings of a good ol’ fashioned shiraz, loaded with ripe Barossa shiraz that exuded a sense of warmth, licorice, brandied cherries, game and sweet meat, the 14.5% alcohol, however, contributing to a significant tannic sharpness and disjointedness at the start. Things began to snap together with food and further aeration as the alcohol receded sufficiently to allow the fruit to gel with a hint of secondary development as notes of cinnamon, chocolate and mocha emerged, the wine slightly more expansive on the palate. I’m a great fan of Rockford, but I can’t help wondering if this wine will ever integrate and evolve.
1998 Ch Lanessan, popped and poured at Burlamacco Ristorante, 5 Nov 2013. My third bottle from the same lot within a month, and it confirms my initial impression of a grossly under-rated wine, on this occasion particularly soft and fleshy with a lovely lift of rich salty minerality on the palate without any hollowness, associated with notes of graphite, red fruits and rose cordial. I’ll swear that, if blinded, one could have easily mistaken it for a classified growth from an off-year.
1998 Domaine de Chevalier, decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 11 Nov 2013. Deep ruby in color with lovely lifted aromas of violets, raspberries and dark currants that are well balanced against the gravelly minerality without much of the characteristic earthiness of Pessac-Leognan. Developed excellent depth of fruit with food and further aeration but it remained medium-bodied on the palate, layered with a touch of spice and mint at the finish. My last bottle, and I’m toying with the idea of importing a case if the price is right.
2011 Fortant de France, 12 and 16 Nov 2013, on board Singapore Airlines. For some time, this has been the airlines’ staple red for economy class, and it’s fairly decent, stuffed with ripe red fruits with a dash of spice without any hollowness nor green notes that usually accompany cheap table wine.
2007 Casa Sant’ Orsola, popped and poured from the restaurant list of La Luce in Jakarta, 15 Nov 2013. Displaying the usual characteristics of a Barolo, relatively upfront with notes of redcurrants, plummy fruit and spice box with a tinge of sweetness at the side, appropriately masculine and weighty, its firm tannins becoming more prominent over time. Yet to develop secondary nuances and still rather straightforward at this stage, but at least it doesn’t try to pretend to be anything else.
Fantinel Prosecco NV, popped and poured from the restaurant list of La Luce in Jakarta, 15 Nov 2013. This is much more characterful than the usual faceless prosecco, displaying enticing aromas of fresh citrus, pomelo and green apples, appropriately yeasty and remarkably broad and well-balanced without being too dry.
2011 Santa Carolina cabernet sauvignon, over a light dinner at the executive lounge of The Ritz-Carlton Mega Kuningan, Jakarta, 13 Nov 2013. This Chilean red is medium-full and straightforward, stuffed with ripe dark berries tempered with earth and forest floor, finishing with a liberal splash of spice and pepper.
2011 Villa de Sud merlot, over a light dinner at the executive lounge of The Ritz-Carlton Mega Kuningan, Jakarta, 13 Nov 2013. I found it difficult to tell apart this South African red from the Santa Carolina above. Upfront, straightforward, and undistinguished.
2008 Schlossgut Diel Goldloch kabinett, popped and poured at O & E restaurant, Jakarta, 12 Nov 2013. Full of verve and vibrancy as layers of tropical fruit, kiwi, complex citrus and a dash of apricot trooped across the palate accompanied by a subdued sweetness that struck a perfect balance against the fresh acidity. Quite the perfect counterfoil against the spicy cuisine.
1993 Carpineto Vino di Nobilo Montepulciano Riserva, popped and poured at Ming Kee Live Seafood, 22 Nov 2013. Dull dusty red with musty earthy odours that quickly gave way to notes of red plums, tangy orange, cedar, cinnamon and leather, still displaying excellent depth of fruit and acidity after 20 years. Good stuff.
2011 Misha’s Vineyard Dress Circle Pinot Gris, served at the hospital’s annual scientific meeting gala dinner at the Raffles Hotel, 22 Nov 2013. Crisp, fruit forward, saturated with fresh citrus and grassy notes, supported by clear minerality and lively acidity. Good weight.
2007 D’Arenberg The Galvo Garage, served at the hospital’s annual scientific meeting gala dinner at the Raffles Hotel, 22 Nov 2013. Notes of dark and red currants from the cabernet well integrated with brighter notes from shiraz, medium-bodied, covered with dusty tannins. Typically McLaren Vale in style.
2011 Torbreck Old Vines Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, served at the hospital’s annual scientific meeting gala dinner at the Raffles Hotel, 22 Nov 2013. Quite recognisable as a GSM, the plummy tones of shiraz interspersed by the darker and greener notes from the grenache, while traces of violets and raspberries betray the mourvedre.
1999 Ch Leoville Las Cases, decanted on-site at Jade Palace, 30 Nov 2013. One of my favourite estates that I regard as a premier cru, way over La Mission Haut Brion, in my humble opinion. Still very youthful after 14 years, a big wine, medium-full, saturated with dark berries and blackcurrants, beautifully structured with its sophisticated tannins still marking their presence. Some early secondary development with notes of cedar, violets and cinnamon, finishing with a heavy minerality that imparted a stern demeanour. Typically Saint-Julien. Typically Las Cases.
Ric's Wine Journal 