Singapore Airlines Business Class Aug 2013
Some short notes about the wines served on board SQ600 Business Class on 30 Aug 2013 between Singapore and Seoul.
Bollinger Special Cuvée. Sweet lifted aromatics, a dash of honey tempered by toast, yeast, cream, vanilla and walnuts. Bright, slightly brazen and dry on the palate but possesses excellent depth and body. A lot better than Piper Hiedsieck red label. Very good.
2010 Weinhaus Ress Rheingau Riesling. Promises more on the nose than palate — apricot and caramel, nectar and a hint of sweet incense — but disappointing on the palate, only light to medium-bodied and lacking in real complexity.
2011 William Fevre Chablis. Vanilla, creme de la creme, firm flinty minerality. Medium-bodied. Could do with greater fullness and body. Good finish, though.
2009 Ch Loudenne. Saturated with dark fruits and blueberries with notes of violets, full yet highly supple and lithe in the manner that can only come from the unique terroir of Bordeaux. Very good.
2011 Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz. Notes of licorice, redcurrants, forest floor, plum and fresh enamel, though milder than the usual full-bodied Barossa shiraz, finishing with the usual dash of spice and pepper.
2003 La Mission H. B., 1994 Haut Brion, 1982 Grand Puy-Lacoste, 1990 Lynch Bages, 2001 & 1985 Mouton Rothschild
These are notes from a dinner hosted by Ms Angelina Teh of Bordeaux Index in April 2013 at Jade Palace, where Angelina had kindly proferred a 1985 Mouton Rothschild, which meant that the rest of us had to up our ante as well. All reds were decanted on-site. Daniel started us off with a 1994 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru that seemed rather flat and angular initially as a result of being served at too cold a temparature, though one could discern the delicate citrus and flinty minerality beneath all the superficial restraint, topped by creme de la creme. 
The wine seemed to broaden over time and with food, developing greater depth along with some attractive intensity at the sides, finishing with a trace of sweetness although it could certainly do with greater fruit density and concentration to overcome the opague sheen that stubbornly remained.
Next came a pairing of the stalwarts of Pessac-Leognan. The 2003 Ch La Mission Haut-Brion (courtesy Pipin) displayed an abundance of ripe dark berries, smooth and rounded, laced with sweet velvety tannins without any trace of burnt, drinking absolutely well, very well-balanced but just coming up a bit short at the finish, and lacking in layering at this stage. The rusticity of La Mission of old has now been replaced by an unprecedented level of sophistication but at the expense, I fear, of losing its identity. However, no fear about that when it comes to its big sister Ch Haut-Brion, where the 1994 (courtesy PS) turned out to be very open and surprisingly aromatic, medium-full, vibrant with sparkling minerality, superbly harmonious and positively glowing with sexy tannins and overtones of tobacco and dried leaves, refusing to fade away long after its finish. Beautiful.
Next up came a pair of Pauillac that may qualify as the poor man’s First. The 1990 Ch Lynch-Bages, dark inky red, is still a tightly-knit wine offering a superb bouquet of graphite minerality and notes of rich black fruits, mocha and dark chocolate, displaying great intensity and layering, cloaked in sweet seductive tannins that ensured a superb mouthfeel. Utterly complex, opulent and powerful, supremely confident without the fireworks. Still yet to peak and will match up to any premier cru. Outstanding. Not to be outdone, the 1982 Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste (courtesy John) offers any top-flight Bordeaux a run for its money, imbued with an abundance of mature ripe fruit possessing attractive sweetness, velvety tannins,
superb richness and concentration, a wine that remained open without any danger of fading, absolutely wonderful and lovely by the end of dinner.
And, finally, the piece de resistance, a pair of Mouton Rothschild. The 2001 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy Kieron) was, predictably, hedonistic and full-bodied at this stage, the vanilla note from its new wood still very much in evidence, still undifferentiated and youthful but saturated with mocha, dark chocolate, toffee and graphite that led to a bittersweet finish, mellowing a little over time but still quite unyielding at this stage. In contrast, the 1985 Ch Mouton Rothschild (courtesy Angelina) is a prime example of Mouton at its best, beautifully balanced with notes of old Chinese tea leaves, dried tobacco and cigar, underscored by lovely sweetness and a dash of prunes, this bottle being much livelier than I remembered it to be when I last had a 1985 Mouton at Hiok’s place about 8-9 years ago. A tour de force to bring this beautiful dinner to a close, and my heartfelt thanks to everyone for their outstanding contributions, and to Angelina for dinner.
August 2013: 1989 Domaine de Chevalier, 1986 Leoville Poyferre, 2000 Clos Fourtet, 2000 Malartic-Lagraviere…
2005 Ch Bernadotte, popped and poured from magnum at Hsien Chieh’s wedding, 3 Aug 2013, at The Fullerton Hotel. Saturated with notes of ripe dark berries, slightly savoury with a hint of toast, prunes and mulberries on the nose, seemingly relaxed and medium-bodied on the palate initially, underscored by a dash of sweetness, before firming up with a tannic sharpness towards the end of dinner. At less than SGD100, this is a magnum that I’ll keep buying to drink.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, popped and poured over dinner at home, 5 Aug 2013. Generous notes of citrus, lime, pomelo with a lovely lift, medium-full on the palate with a sweet intensity supported by flinty minerality, vibrant and lively. But it turned more austere and steely a few hours later in spite of refrigeration, not helped by further warming in the glass. For sure this Clare Valley riesling is capable of ageing well (a memorable 2000 comes to mind); perhaps that’s just what’s needed.
2007 Ch Macay, a Cotes de Bourg presented to me couple of years ago and stored in my office since. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 7 Aug 2013. This label is usually marketed as a supermarket wine, but its quality blew me away. Showing a tint of vermillion, it presented highly attractive aromas of tobacco, Chinese tea leaves and toast, backed by a ripe mix of supple red and dark fruits of good concentration without any hollowness nor greenness, most remarkable for its excellent balance. Forget about Potensac. This is a real sleeper, and I’m going to hunt around for a 2005 or 2009.
2005 Ch Villars de Fontaine Les Jiromees, popped and poured at the in-laws, 10 Aug 2013. Much deeper in color now, a lovely golden hue, compared to a previous tasting four years ago, and more forthcoming as well with notes of creme de la creme, vanilla, caramel and a dash of apricot supported by clear minerality, no longer as cutting nor as crisp as before. There’s still a bit of unresolved steeliness, but there is no doubt this wine is evolving very nicely, likely to gain further weight and complexity with time. One for the long haul.
2012 Karri Oak chardonnay, at the RiSE Awards, Singhealth, 15 Aug 2013. Straightforward with tangy citrus, peach, green apples and pears, lively and refreshing. Does its job.
1986 Ch Leoville-Poyferre, decanted on-site at Keystone restaurant, 16 Aug 2013. This bottle is a lot better than a previous one, from the same case, that wasted tasted at Hiok’s residence at the start of the year. Dark vermillion in color, offering quite an abundance of cassis, plums, licorice, mocha and a dash of orangey citrus on the nose. On the palate, this wine posseses much more depth than I ever recalled with plenty of body, coupled with very fine supple tannins and acidity that is clearly receding, the wine growing in breadth and intensity over time, proving that there is still plenty of life left in it. Excellent.
2003 Ch Lagrange, over dinner at GPP’s residence, 17 Aug 2013. Popped and poured. It occurred to me that I’ve not tasted any of this St Julien estate for at least two years. Compared to some other Left Bank estates, Lagrange does not seem to betray any signs of heat stress from this terribly hot growing season. The usual notes of blueberries and dark currants dominate, the wine gelling very well on the palate, nicely structured, firm but expansive, coming across as a very correct wine. I enjoyed it, but perhaps the heat did rob the wine of much of its St Julien terroir, leaving it rather inconspicuous and characterless.
2009 Frank Phelan, at Jade Palace, 20 Aug 2013. Decanted on-site. I didn’t realise, but this is the second wine of Ch Phelan-Segur. Already highly accessible at this stage. Instead of the usual solid dense texture of young wines from ripe vintages, this wine is soft and rounded, offering notes of blueberries, violets, briar and raspberries with good transparency, layering and concentration, dryish in texture, its mild tannin very much recessed into the background. It firmed up over time, developing a quiet intensity on the palate although it remained muted on the nose. Highly-recommended.
1989 Domaine de Chevalier, decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 21 Aug 2013. Fully matured. Glowing with notes of orangey citrus, cherries and other red fruits with distinct salty minerality on the palate, medium-bodied, totally seamless and harmonious, still displaying very good concentration and depth of fruit, growing in intensity and weight over time, though I wouldn’t say that it is, in any way, lush nor opulent. But it is truly a connoisseur’s red, perfectly balanced, brimming with finnesse and elegance. Almost Burgundian. Has more character than a previous bottle (from the same lot) tasted two years ago. Very lovely.
1993 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, decanted on-site at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 23 Aug 2013, and again at Otto Ristorante, 26 Aug 2013. Regular readers will know that I’m drinking through a case of this, and I must say, in spite of full maturity, this wine is still holding up very well. Some patience is required, for it can seem rather earthy and dull at the first pour. It opened up 30-45 minutes into the meal, lightening up in texture and broadening on the palate with notes of plummy fruit and tangy orange, with darker notes of blueberries and violets adding further depth and weight, medium-full and fleshy, tapering to a lasting finish. Very good indeed.
2010 Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Cuvee St-Vincent, popped and poured at Asia Grand, 24 Aug 2013. Consistent with its house style, this wine is heavier in tone for a pinot, but the notes of dark cherries, raspberries and rose petals are unmistakably burgundian, along with some salty minerality that combined to produce substantial body, fleshing out very well. At SGD37, I’m happy to pour this anytime.
2006 Peccavi chardonnay, at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. Popped and poured. Compared to previous tastings 1-2 years ago, this wine has evolved significantly, a lot softer now after having lost its stony edge, delicious with generous notes of tropical fruits, yellow citrus topped by a creamy texture that added to its allure, replete with excellent depth of fruit and supported by flinty minerality. Really surpasses itself.
![20130827_202914[1]](https://winebyric.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/20130827_2029141.jpg)
2008 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin, poured from magnum at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. This has everything in the right place and proportion though somewhat shy on the nose, medium-bodied with notes of cherries, strawberries and other red fruits, displaying some perfumed aromatics with a touch of earth, gaining more body and depth with further aeration, slightly dry at the finish. Nothing really cerebral but definitely most enjoyable.
2003 Ch Du Tertre (courtesy John), poured from magnum at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. Decanted on-site for over an hour. Very lovely with lifted aromas, carrying a fine mix of red and dark fruits with excellent weight and depth of fruit, fresh and lively without any trace of burnt, perhaps a tad more masculine than usual for a Margaux but all the better for it. Du Tertre is a grossly under-rated estate, which is great for us. At less than SGD110 for a magnum, this is a no-brainer.
2000 Ch Malartic-Lagraviere (courtesy John), poured from magnum at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. Decanted on-site for over an hour. Quiet on the nose although the earthiness of Pessac-Leognan is unmistakable, tempered by a trace of sweet tannins, generous in body and quality, lovely in balance and temperament, on the verge of developing further complexity. Quite the perfect claret to go with any meal. Yet to peak. Very fine.
2000 Ch Clos Fourtet, at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. Aired in bottle for over an hour. Notably darker and heavier than the Malartic-Lagraviere above, along with tannins that are much sweeter with a pre-dominance of dark fruits and soy and a dash of cedar and sweet meat. 
Much more integrated than a previous bottle tasted some 3 years ago, though yet to peak. Hard to place in a blinded tasting, I’d imagine.
2009 Grace Vineyard cabernet sauvignon (courtesy F), off the restaurant list at The Edge, Pan Pacific Hotel, Singapore, 27 Aug 2013. Yes, it hails from one of the better-known vineyards of China (that’s right!) but don’t get your hopes too high, for this wine tastes more like a “generic” red from your Christmas hamper, a bit too light and fruit forward for it to be taken seriously as a cabernet, although it is definitely well crafted, clear and clean with aromas that are quite agreeable. Perhaps its vines need more time to gain further maturity. Will reserve judgement.
You’ve read about famous manuscripts being chucked away, hopelessly lost, only to be discovered centuries later. Well, something similar happened at RWJ, where a fully written-up account of a memorable evening by renowned oenophile and gastronomist , Dr Chiang-Yin Wong, was re-discovered this evening, buried amongst thousands of files, from the Editor’s hard drive. Read on…
The Cast
Kieron Lim: Gastronomic and Gastroenterology Registrar
Richard Chen: Consultant Male Performance Clinic (sounds a lot sexier than “Viagra Peddler”)
Victor Lim: Heart Plumber, Acting Head, Cardiology, for 2 hours (long story)
Daniel Tan: Medical Trainee, Oncology, aka ‘squirt’, passed MRCP 2A, the reason for our proceedings
Wong Chiang Yin: Recently retrenched Ag CEO
Quotes of the Night
“I think Hiok will slit his wrist when he reads about this”
“Dr Tan, your son has collapsed in a pool of First Growths!”
Introduction
The Wine List was unabashedly Burgundian (my kind of list). And since we were told that corkage would be waived on a one-for-one basis, Victor decided to get a bottle from the list. It would have to be a white (as you would soon see why) despite the protestations of Squirt “Do we need a pansy white?”. The list was dominated by Vincent Girardin, which frankly I don’t like. His wines are too manipulated and terroir doesn’t show well. Iggy concurred “it’s almost New World Burgundian. Its perfect winemaking but all his wines taste the same. But we stock a lot of it because his bottles never get sent back by the customers, especially the business people” Basically, its wines with no personality, manufactured rather than bred – but very well manufactured. We then rattled off the four Bordeaux that we had brought along for the wine. Ian was a bit stressed and got Iggy to come over and sort out the vinous conundrum that awaited. He stood there for a full two minutes, juggled the wines to and fro 3 times before settling down to a sequence on how his food would go with the wines. We sat there in silence. Never disturb a man at work. All the wines were opened at about 7:30pm and decanted and served between 8:30pm and 10:30pm. Dinner lasted four hours from 8pm till midnight.
Act 1: A Leflaive BBM off the starting blocks….
Wine #1: But something stood out from the mass of Girardins Grand Cru Whites (it has to be a GC, as you would soon see why) – a sole Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2000, the smallest GC in Puligny, but certainly no weak link in the Montrachet family of four GCs. The nose was stupendous – a symphony of yellow fruits, honey and lest you think it new worldlish, it is not. 
Reining in all this power was great minerality, acidity and a certain transparent almost ethereal structure. And this was in the nose, folks!The wine was equally mesmerizing in the mouth, a certain weight, silkiness that entwines impeccably with the fruit and acidity. Still has some way to go, notwithstanding it’s a 2000. At SGD415 (off the restaurant list of Iggy’s back in 2006, mind you – Ed), it was a bargain, thanks to Victor, our heart plumber. He now has to plumb a lot over the next few weeks. This was no pansy white. In fact, the only thing pansy at the table was Daniel’s liver (Please read on…).
Food #1 to #4: We started off with a trio of starters: a semi-cooked yolk topped with a slice of black truffle. It was heavenly stuff, the yolk was described as “a kiss on your girlfriend’s lips” by Iggy (wonder why not ‘wife’?). There was also a foie gras pate on a block of silken tofu. Refreshing approach. 
The last was somen topped with black caviar which I thought was disappointing – the somen was too sour which sort of blacked out the intricacies of the caviar (pun intended). The Tuna Carpacio topped with a drizzles of mayo and sliced aged parmesan was an elegant expression of simplicity and harmony. The freshness of the maguro was well accompanied by the salty bite of the aged parmesan and the creaminess of the mayo. Heavenly! Then we came to prawn meat steamed in dashi and shiso stock. I wasn’t too impressed with this one (probably biased because it was essentially quite easy to do, from my point of view). 
The last dish that completed our starter line-up was a pan fried snapper on a bed of miso concoction (normal plus moromi miso, I think). Again, I wasn’t too impressed but it was a good rendition of the extremely fresh snapper.
Act 2: Tweety Bird Meets Maximus
Wine #2: As usual, I brought my favourite chateau for the evening – a 1986 Ch La Mission Haut Brion. The nose was indisputably Pessac! Powerful farmyard aromas which slowly gave away to the classic La Mission description of wet granite nose. The nose leapt out at you even if you nose was a few inches away from the rim of the glass. In the mouth, power and finesse in a glass. The huge fruit and large tannins had mellowed with time into a wine of regal proportions. Only the ’82 La Mission was better, a ’76 I tasted recently was sublime but less powerful. Still very young and not at peak, at least another 10 years easy. And RP gave it only 88 points (idiot). The palate was just forever, a big wine that was lithe and luscious at the same time. As the night went on, the wine did not falter and went from strength to strength. In fact the nose got better after an hour and had the sweet tertiary notes reminiscent of the Lafite. Best of all, I have another 5 bottles.
Food #5 (Tweety Bird on Strings of Pasta): This was accompanied by roasted quail on a bed of pasta. The quail was seasoned well with spices but still not as good as the quail at Yubar at New Asia Hotel. The pasta was good, had shades of truffle oil cooked al dente. An excellent dish, simple, unpretentious and the gaminess of the quail went well with the weight of the La Mission.
Act 3: Narcotic High in a bottle. Then a Obtund Number
Wine #3: 1989 Ch Lafite Rothschild (courtesy of moi – Ed). The nose was ephemeral. A sweet anise-seed tertiary nose coupled with just the right balance of red and black fruit. So seductive it brings a man to his knees. The type of nose that makes you unknowingly want to lean back and rock the chair, only to realize Iggy’s chairs didn’t permit rocking. A certain stream of sweet note hits the back of the throat that gives you something like a narcotic high. “Gives you goose bumps” was how Kieron described it (the benefit of an English Public School Education, I suppose). We were truly waxing lyrical about this one. In the mouth, the wine was at most medium bodied, a contrast to the monolithic La Mission that preceded it. Amid the cedar and anise-seed notes, the tannins flirted with the fruit flawlessly while the acid pirouetted at the tip of the tongue. A moderately long finish. Elegance defined. This bottle was showing a lot better than the one I had opened two weeks ago after the SMA dinner (either that or I was pissed drunk two weeks ago and had no idea what I was drinking). But a note of caution here. At about 11pm, we all agreed that the wine was fading a bit in nose and flavour.
Wine #4: 1995 Ch Leoville-Las-Cases. The nose was dark fruits, toasted oak typical of the chateau. But we had opened this wine 10 years too early, quite closed, impenetrable if not inadmissible. But Iggy’s comments at the end of the dinner was instructive – he liked this best because it is an extremely well made wine with enormous potential, although the ’86 La Mission was drinking best that night. I am supposed to take some vicarious responsibility for this wine brought by Kieron. I had originally intended to bring a ’79 Margaux but thought that we should open when Hiok is back from Kimchi-Land (see what friends are for, Hiok?) You owe me at least one angio, 3 stents and an ultrasound FOC. Then I thought of the ’95 Cheval Blanc. But I thought that was too young, so I brought the ’86 La Mission. Kieron brought the ’95 Las Cases to pair with my ’95 CB but he said “I played him out”. What the heck, I stand by my choice – the La Mission was right on target that night.
Food #6: The next course was a lamb filet dish. The lamb was excellently accompanied by what I was thought was bone marrow rosemary sauce. What was exceptionally thoughtful I thought was the stuff under the lamb – the tempura-style zucchini, its lightness a perfect foil for the opulent lamb.
Act 4: Detour for VD (Victor & Daniel, Not Venereal Disease)
Our conversation turned to what makes a good white Burg. We said that often a Leflaive Village or even a Bourgogne (witness NK’s [the venerable Dr NK Yong – Ed] ’99 Bourgogne served at the SMA Wine Chapter dinner) was better than other makers’ wines of higher grade. Victor wasn’t too convinced and Daniel continued with his ‘pansy white’ rhetoric. At this juncture, the others asked me to share with them my retrenchment benefits (there are none). I asked for the wine list and alamak (colloquial language, Singapore – Ed), 1er Cru and Village lists don’t have no Leflaive….. Only Girardin….(*&^%$#@!…..) We called Iggy and asked for any Leflaive off the list (we will not be denied). Ian the sommelier was happy to report they have a bottle of 2003 Les Pucelles stashed away. Wow. What the heck, I was feeling generous.
Wine #5: Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2005. The nose was ripe++ with honey, melon and ripe pears. Not quite as powerful and complex as the BBM of course. An almost unctuous weight with a velvety mouthfeel supported by good minerality. A long, rich finish. An atypical Les Pucelles but meant for drinking young, no doubt a result of the 2003 heatwave. Lacks acid for the long haul though but outright delicious right now. A very classy wine accessible despite its youth
Food #7: Angmoh Haemee Dry (literal translation: the Englishman’s prawn noodles without soup – Ed). Kieron then asked for Iggy’s signature Shrimp Capellini Pasta. This was true fruit de mer stuff with the shrimp leaping out at you in flavour. 
I have only tasted one version better than this – a hedonistic version at NK’s done by his wonderful wife Melina, but that’s not for sale, folks. This was a more restrained version with a linear flavour structure which blended remarkably well with the Les Pucelles. Possibly the best pairing of food and wine for the night, I thought.
Act 5: Long Live Femininity and Serving Kong Bak Sauce to Kong Bak King!
Wine #6: 1983 Ch Margaux. This was Daniel Tan’s contribution for passing MRCP 2A. (Well, actually a contribution from his father, Dr Tan Chue Tin, my ex-colleague in SMA Council. Dr Tan will forever be remembered by us as the man who left Council a few years ago and left behind a bottle of 1990 DRC Echezeaux for the rest of the Council – which sort of showed how desperate he was to get out of the rut life of a SMA Council member). Just for info, the ’83 Margaux is widely recognized to be a better wine than the ’82. And this was probably the most highly rated wine of the night. The nose was classic Margaux, supremely elegant and feminine, with notes of spice (I call that ‘fresh cut chilli’ nose, typical of the commune). Red fruit with tertiary notes of sandalwood and figs that fans out to a wide expanse on the back palate. A wine that caresses and not coats the palate and tongue. Imperceptible tannins yet possessing a clean well defined structure. Still fresh and vibrant with good acidity. Can go a long way still but why wait? An Audrey Hepburn of a Bordeaux. This was when Richard said “I think Hiok will slit his wrist when he reads about this”.
Food #8: Wagyu Beef on Kong Bak Sauce. The wine was accompanied by two thick strips of Aussie Wagyu grilled to perfection. The beef was frankly not as soft as some of the top grade Wagyu I have eaten but good enough. It was accompanied on the side with a stuffed spinach parcel. What intrigued me was the double glaze that lined the plate. Holy smoke, there was cinnamon stick and star anise in this stuff! 
It was kong bak sauce. I called Ian over – “is this kong bak sauce?’. He said “er, it’s a pinot noir reduction”…
“But got star anise and cinnamon, yes?”
“Yes, there is. Your palate very sharp”
At first, I was a bit nonplussed if not irritated. Gee, World’s No. 98 restaurant serving me kong bak sauce? I can make this by the tub. After all, I am the kong bak man (not bak chor mee man). But then again, I thought about it, the acidity of the reduced pinot and the spicy attack of the star anise and cinnamon did cut through the oiliness effortlessly like a katana through toro. At this juncture, Daniel aka “Squirt” sort of collapsed and said he was too full and can’t take the beef. Thanks kid. He had held out for as long as he could until his Margaux was served and he had finally reached the rather shallow ends of his pansy liver. 
Now, he was gone, listing against his chair like a happy penguin after a big meal and genuinely stoned. I picked up the phone and called his dad, ““Dr Tan, your son has collapsed in a pool of First Growths!” Fathers, as fathers go, panicked “Does he need me to pick him up?” What, the boy can pass MRCP 2A and cant find his way home. Naarh.
Act 6: Let’s get cheesy
Food #9: Cheese Souffle. At this juncture, we were honoured to have Iggy at our table. We revisited all the red wines we had and see how they had developed. The cheese soufflé was incredibly light and savoury, a relief of sorts from the relentless barrage of heavy flavours we have had from the last 4 main courses. Iggy polished his off like in one minute flat!
Bordeaux Wine Summary: We all concluded that it was meaningless to choose the best wine of the night. The Lafite nose in the beginning was without peer, the Margaux was a complete wine in every sense of the word and the La Mission was lusciously hedonistic that got even better and better with time. All three were grand vin – to borrow a term from Clive Coates. The ’95 Las Cases will be one too, given time.
Act 7: Driven Sweetly off the Cliff
By now, Daniel was truly gone. But we were not done yet. Kieron’s 1989 Ch Riesseuc beckoned. The half bottle was showing beautifully, – the normal acrylic nose of young Sauternes had given away to complex notes of honey, lychees and even hints of grapefruit and ginger. It was a magnificent sample of what a sauternes could be – a unctuous wine yet not cloying, refreshingly acidic at the end with complex gripping minerality.
Dessert was a again a trio of sweet bites: A scoop of vanilla ice cream that went well with the sweet pudding and a really sinful liquid centre chocolate torte (as good as Ember and Hiok’s Spinal Needle Chocolate Torte).
Epilogue
These two photos – ipsa loquitur
Barolo & Barbaresco
Bacchus kept up its steady stream of dinners with yet another gathering in the private sanctum of Garibaldi, 30 May 2013, with a bespoke menu expertly crafted by maestro Roberto. Barolo and Barbaresco aren’t exactly the most exciting wine themes one could conjure up but Bacchus, being Bacchus with its members having “been there, done that”, can afford to do away with exotic themes, preferring to concentrate on the pleasures of fine wine and great company.
We began with a 1996 Antinori Cervaro (courtesy Kieron), displaying a dull plummy color and lowish acidity with mild overtones of lacquer and laid back apricot, some nectar creeping in as it gradually warmed up, though it was just a tad too lightweight on the palate for my liking, exposing the stony minerality beneath with a fair degree of dryness. One could tell that the 1967 Ditta Giacomo Conterno Barolo from the restaurant list that followed was badly oxidized, a weird orangey-peachy color that was quite indescribable on the nose, an overwhelming powdery musty odour, the wine tasting like rust or motor oil (not that I’ve ever had those before but I’d imagine they’d come close).
Thankfully, no such further abomination was in store for the rest of the evening. The 2000 Bruno Giacoso Barbaresco, despite its alarming lightness in color, turned out well, fully matured with a soft glow of strawberries and red fruits, distinctly medium-bodied and gentle, carrying decent weight but short. It gained further weight over time, becoming beautifully developed by the end of dinner. 
Interestingly, its pairing, a 1999 Gaja Costa Russi (courtesy Pipin), was significantly darker in color and tone than the Giacoso in spite being older, generous in mint, spice, raspberries and dark cherries that added up to an attractive weightiness, exuding a lovely perfumed fragrance offset by undertones of saddle and leather. Lovely.
A pairing of Barolos brought the evening to a most satisfying conclusion. The 1985 Gaja Sori Tildin (courtesy Kieron), suitably aged and glowing with rose petals and all manner of supple red fruits, exuded a distinctly feminine character, absolutely seamless and beautifully developed although there was no mistaking the weight that comes from a Barolo. The best was saved for last, for how could one go wrong with a 1997 Gaja Sperrs (courtesy LiFern). This wine was the darkest of the lot, remarkably sweet on the nose, promising ripe sweet berries and currants and superb depth of fruit that came through on the palate, beautifully rounded and seamless, developing further notes of rose petals and licorice with a touch of forest floor, earth and a trace of smoke, framed by lithe supple tannins. Outstanding.
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Rizzardi, NV, at Senso Ristorante, 3 June 2013. Expectedly reliable as an aperitif, fairly generous with notes of green melons, kiwi fruit, citrus and apples, slightly grassy, supported by clear minerality that tapered to a mild metallic finish. Lively and rather inviting, I must say.
2009 Darien Crianza, from the list of Ola Cocina Del Mar, 3 June 2013. The nose was rather off-putting, the notes of kirsch, licorice, earth and burnt coming quite squarely at your face with a superficial quality that has “cheap” written all over it. However, it was saved by a decent showing on the palate, the wine’s racy and peppery character proving enough of a distraction from grapes that seemed to betray some degree of heat stress, raisiny and disjointed at times.
2001 Ch Ducru Beaucaillou, decanted on-site at La Barca, 7 June 2013. This wine is drinking perfectly well now, having hit full maturity (faster than I’d anticipated for a 2001) without shedding too much of its character. Bright vermillion with notes of red fruits, kumquat, cedar and earth on the nose, medium-bodied, dominated by an attractive salty minerality on the palate that further enhances the visceral pleasure, the wine soft and rounded, its tannins having dissipated long ago. Doesn’t quite plumb the depths, but its balance and integration is well-nigh perfect with excellent definition. A feminine Ducru (does it really matter?). Very lovely indeed.
2004 Clonakilla shiraz-viognier (courtesy Hiok), decanted on-site at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 10 June 2013. This wine has evolved quite significantly, displaying an excellent mix of racy bright shiraz – licorice, raisins, raspberries, dark currants with a hint of white pepper – tempered by traces of vanillin, citrus and perfume clearly contributed by viognier, the wine soft and fleshy with an easy feel about it, yet possessing good depth and layering. Expertly crafted, and highly successful indeed.
2005 Bruno Desaunay-Bisset Echezeaux Grand Cru, popped and poured at Crepe-des-Art, 15 June 2013. Dusty in color and feel, displaying more of salty minerality than real fruit quality, earthy and austere. I didn’t get any sense of depth, layering nor the substantial oiliness that one would expect of a Grand Cru bordering on Vosne-Romanee. Disappointing.
2010 La Puerto, a glass from Bedrock Bar and Grill, 17 June 2013, to go with its generous lunch offering of a 200g ribeye. This wine is nothing more than a straightforward malbec, typically earnest in character, fruit-forward with notes of raspberries and dark cherries, fairly intense, ending with an austere metallic note.
2010 Ch Pey La Tour, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 18 June 2013. No doubt a supermarket wine, but I was curious to find out why Decanter had lavished praise on this estate’s 2010, and the answer was clear right from the first pour. Very attractive on the nose with notes of tarry black cherries, mulberry and a dash of red fruits that carried well onto the palate with enough depth of fruit, though the graphite minerality and vanilla was enough to prevent the latter from shining, ensuring a fairly narrow body. Didn’t improve with further aeration. But it is not bad at all, considering it is only SGD18.
2009 Ch Haut Maillet, popped and poured at Porta Porta (Stanley St), a restaurant that’s extremely quaint and cosy now that its makeover has been completed, along with a revamped classy, competitive menu and excellent stemware and free corkage (for me, at least). Deep purple, weighty with forward notes of raisins, ripe berries, soy and dark currants against a warm earthy background, soft and supple at the edges and reasonably well integrated at this stage although the oak is still in the way, tapering towards an austere finish. Nothing quite distinguishing about this Pomerol, but this is the kind of petit chateaux one should seek out, particularly in fine vintages, that define the heart of Bordeaux.
Rockford Black Shiraz 2004 disgorgement, popped and poured at Ming Kee Live Seafood, 21 June 2013. At nine years, this is one of the oldest examples of this sparkling shiraz I’ve ever had, and it was just as well that I chose to pop it today, for the wine appeared distinctly matured as evidenced by the relative lack of fizz, whilst some faint bricking was already present with dominant medicinal and herbal characteristics at its core, replete with the usual licorice, steeped plums and prunes of a Barossa shiraz. It loosened up over time, lightening up in texture and filling up at the sides, striking up a good balance between the depth of fruit and the fizz, becoming more like the famous Black Shiraz that I knew and loved. Very good, but do start drinking up.
2010 Marabino Noto, off the list of La Barca, 25 June 2013. Popped and poured. 100% Nero D’Avola. In spite of it being obviously a table wine, it was surprisingly satisfying. Deep clear ruby with plenty of forward notes of red cherries and strawberries along with a bit of enamel and wild berries and spice box, displaying very good presence and weight. Obviously one doesn’t look for complexity here. Does its job.
2007 Reserve de la Comtesse (courtesy of Ben), at Imperial Treasure T3, 28 June 2013. Popped and poured. Deep purple, distinctly masculine where dark berries and black cherries are matched against a graphite minerality that gave the wine a tight and lean demeanour, though its inner core is appropriately soft and the tannins gentle. Nothing very distinctive. Can still hold for several more years.
1993 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, popped and poured at Salta, 29 June 2013. Dark, with a hint of vermillion. Dense and tannic with initial medicinal and herbal notes. This eventually gave way to a more open wine characterised by plums, licorice and a tinge of orangey citrus, displaying good depth and concentration. Nothing very special and I wouldn’t bother to keep it further. Another eight bottles remaining.
1990 Gazin & 1994 Mouton Rothschild
These are notes from another super-indulgent dinner at Skirt, W Hotel, Sentosa Cove, 13 June 2013, where each of us ate two steaks of grade 9 marbling. I can just about feel another one of my coronaries shutting up. To accommodate the restaurant’s corkage policy of one-for-one (or a SGD50 fee per bottle), we bought a 2010 Maison Kerlann Pouilly-Fuisse from the expensive (and unimpressive) wine list. 
Fairly generous from the first pour with notes of yellow citrus and green apples, crisp and medium-bodied on the palate stuffed with vanilla amidst clear minerality, eventually developing delicious fat in the mid-body over time, tapering to a linear finish. Not bad at all.
We paired our first steak, a 250g skirt cut, with the 1990 Ch Gazin that was decanted on-site. This came across as dark and vibrant, stuffed with mulberry, cedar and dark currants with a touch of spice, medium-bodied with an attractive dryness at the sides, framed by sweet subdued tannins that transformed over time into a tightly knit texture that oozed sophistication and sexiness, supported by a high-toned minerality. 
The wine came together very well after an hour, superbly balanced with a fair degree of joie de verve, just lacking in real opulence. Clearly still way off its peak. Again, like most Pomerol, it would have been difficult to place in a blinded tasting, but who really cares when there is so much here to enjoy. Excellent.
The piece de resistance, for what was actually just a casual dinner, was the 1994 Ch Mouton Rothschild, decanted on-site and paired with a 250g dry-aged Tajima Australian crossbred wagyu sirloin. The wine was opaque and surprisingly aromatic for this vintage, its classic Pauillac signature of tobacco, wood shavings, dry mushrooms and a dash of forest floor instantly recognisable, complemented by lovely dark currants, sweet prunes and a mild salty minerality that proved to be highly supple, yielding a very good mouthfeel. To be honest though, it was unlikely one could have identified this as a premier cru if blinded, but it certainly surpasses all expectations for a 1994. Thanks, John, for the wines.
1994 Ch L’Evangile
The 1994 Ch L’Evangile is one of RWJ’s Best Affordable Reds and today’s tasting at Iggy’s on the occasion of our anniversary lunch, 11 June 2013, amply confirms that view. Decanted on-site, the wine displayed a purplish-red with just a hint of bricking at the rim, already soft and easy-going right from the first pour, throwing up a great deal of earthiness with more than a trace of pungency. This blew off after a short while, allowing more of the predominantly red fruits to emerge, supported by a deeper layer of dark currants along with other notes of soy and a hint of graphite, decidedly soft and relaxed on the palate. 
One certainly could not mistake it for anything other than a Bordeaux, although placing it in a blinded tasting may be problematic. It gradually fleshed out over time with more of blueberries and briar to the fore, the tannins becoming more pronounced with their supple velvety texture, the wine gaining just a little more weight, firming up in the mid-body, though still retaining its remarkable balance and ease all the way to its dry lengthy finish, leaving the palate to bask in the lovely glow of a mature claret. Compared to Petrus of the same vintage, the L’Evangile is just lacking in the last ounce of opulence and richness, but you wouldn’t have realised that without a side-by-side comparison. Even Ignatius himself, who’d never tasted a 1994 L’Evangile, was most impressed.
May 2013: 2005 Silver Oak, 1995 Ornellaia, 2003 Sociando Mallet, 1994 Pichon Lalande, 2004 Latour-a-Pomerol…
2011 Ashbrook Estate sauvignon blanc, aired in bottle, 1 May 2013 at Jeremy’s BBQ. Rather steely and narrow in spectrum, veering towards an austere finish. Unattractive.
2008 Frankovka Modra suche, aired in bottle, 1 May 2013 at Jeremy’s BBQ. A Slovakian wine made from an unusual grape, but common in central Europe. Bright purple in color with good transparency, suggesting a light-bodied wine which is exactly that. Gentle on the palate with notes of red fruits and cherries, lightly oaked without any significant complexity, short on the finish. Not far from Beaujolais in character. Could do with greater density.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV, aired in bottle and drunk over two hours at Jeremy’s farewell BBQ, 1 May 2013. Surprisingly good, loaded with very good concentration of green and yellow citrus with aromas of green apples, pears and melons, bold enough in body to match the champagne’s dryness, supported by solid minerality.
2010 D’Arenberg Original, a blend of shiraz and grenache, 1 May 2013 at Jeremy’s BBQ. Medium-full, a very successful blend where the chocolate and licorice of ripe shiraz is well-balanced against the leafy earthy notes of grenache, matched to a generous body that was smooth and rounded. Possesed much more character than the Leeuwin below. A very good table wine.
1998 Ch Lanessan, aired in bottle for about an hour on 1 May 2013 at Jeremy’s BBQ. Regular readers will realise that I’m popping the ’98 Lanessan every other month, because it’s such great value and so good to drink now, carrying quality dark fruits and wild berries with substantial weight and secondary nuances of forest floor, dry leaves, old leather and a dash of sweet tannins at the sides. I’m afraid Lanessan will always remain under-rated, which is great for folks who know better.
2004 Ch Latour-a-Pomerol, popped and poured at Jeremy’s BBQ on 1 May 2013. Weighty, saturated with premium dark berries and blackcurrants, traces of vanilla and enamel still discernible but definitely more open in the mid-body compared to previous tastings, eventually settling down into a rounded fleshy wine laced with sweet supple tannins. Yet to develop secondary characteristics. Keep.
2008 Leuwin Estate Art Series Shiraz, popped and poured at Beng Hiang restaurant, 4 May 2013. The fruit is recognisably shiraz, its warm ripe character with a touch of spice, plums and leafy medicinal note is unmistakable. But unlike its South Australian counterparts, this Margaret River shiraz is far too smooth, soft and cool for my liking, bereft of character and complexity, gaining a bit of austere metallic quality at the finish. Too straightforward. Not deserving of its Art Series labelling.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, popped at home over a dinner of crepes, 6 May 2013. Generous in aromas of peach, apricot, rock melons and citrus that are well matched on the palate, buzzing with wonderful intensity, supported by dense minerality, slightly angular and steely at the finish. Great ageing potential. Try refraining from popping too many of these prematurely.
2006 Ch Malarctic-Lagraviere, decanted on-site at Burlamacco Ristorante, 14 May 2013. Compared to a previous tasting last year, this wine seems to have shed its vanilla coat, the ripe cabernet coming across with greater purity and milder intensity, imparting initial notes of plums, red fruits and wild berries before being overtaken by a broad salty minerality, carrying with it a touch of earthiness of Pessac-Leognan, softening over time, dry at the finish. Much more accessible than before if given adequate aeration. Perfect with the excellent medium-rare tenderloin with truffle fries.
2009 Ch Bernadotte, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 15 May 2013, and again at an impromptu tasting after hours at the office (when we’d run out of the 1994 Pichon Lalande), 23 May 2013. Compared to a previous note a year ago, this wine has definitely put on considerable weight, along with a most attractive bouquet of raisins, prunes, raspberries, briar and cedar, dark and attractive with fruit that is perfectly ripe, never before encountered in a Bernadotte. Medium-full and firm on the palate, displaying very good concentration. Developing very well in the right direction. Would have been quite savoury if there was greater fullness in the body. Very good indeed.
2011 Alta Vista Premium, around SGD60 off the list of Salta, 21 May 2013, an ordinary-looking diner (I don’t think it fits my idea of a restaurant) at Gopeng St that serves extraordinary steak at ordinary prices. We need more of these joints around. Popped and poured. Deep purple and full-bodied, saturated with ripe malbec, displaying overtones of enamel, vanilla, dark currants, blackberries and a touch of spice, opening up slightly after some time though it remained rather four-square in character. Utterly predictable but does its job very competently.
2005 Ch Bernadotte, poured from magnum at Otto Ristorante, 22 May 2013, my second of this wine in three months. Dark red with notes of prunes, cedar, dark currants and earth, quietly understated, sitting in the glass with excellent poise and confidence, just revealing a glimpse of early secondary development. A tad shy and may, perhaps, shut down soon. This is a real sleeper. Grab a case if you can.
1994 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (courtesy John), decanted for an hour prior to tasting after hours at the office, 23 May 2013. Compared to other more refined vintages, the ‘94 Lalande is more rustic at the edges, distinctly dusty in feel and texture with, perhaps, just a bare hint that the fruit, somewhat unexciting for this vintage, may begin to dry out soon although it offered a generous and attractive bouquet of cedar, cinnamon and licorice as the wine was served from the decanter, certainly very open on the mid-palate without any hollowness. I’m happy to drink this any time.
2011 Castella Pinot Grigio Friuli, SGD45 from the list of Da Mario, 24 May 2013. Popped and poured. Rather underwhelming at first, the backwardness of the fruit and an overwhelming sense of greenness raising fears that this would turn out to be a really cheap drink. Thankfully, it gained weight rapidly, adding layers of intensity, fleshing out very nicely with notes of zesty citrus, kiwi fruit, melons and peppermint supported by excellent minerality that never got in the way. Very good.
2005 Silver Oak Alexander Valley, popped and poured at Jade Palace, 25 May 2013. Regrettably, this bottle is far from ready. Deep dark inky purple, saturated with notes of blackberries, raspberries, dark chocolate and raisins, slightly tarry in texture with undertones of forest floor and a hint of graphite, framed by subtle tannins. But in spite of persuasive coaxing, this wine never really opened at all, remaining stubbornly coiled and undeveloped. Given time, this may turn out to be a real charmer. Don’t touch yours for another 6-8 years, I reckon.
2001 La Poderino Brunello di Montalcino, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 28 May 2013. In spite of this bottle’s less-than-pristine provenance and storage, it showed great promise when poured, offering a generous bouquet of licorice, dark currants and ripe dark berries with a dash of earth, weighty and structured. However, it never really came together, developing a touch of spice and pepper over time, just too heavy on the palate. Disappointing.
2003 Ch Sociando Mallet, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure T3, 29 May 2013. Ten years on and this wine is turning out very well. Huge, tannic and hard at the first pour, but it settled down rapidly, opening up to reveal some layering in the mid-body that was quite glorious whilst notes of cedar, briar, earth and a dash of violets complemented the ripe dark berries that will find a place in the top drawer of any classified growth, imparting a rich and luxuriant glow, beautifully structured, a wine that carries real sophistication and distinction. It reminded me very much of this estate’s 2001, but the present wine is more exuberant. Nowhere near its full potential at this stage but I imagine it will be absolutely fabulous in another ten years. Excellent.
1995 Ornellaia (courtesy John), decanted on-site at Amarone, 31 May 2013. Still quite impenetrably dark at its core, although signs of evolution are clearly visible at the rim. Sullen, tannic and closed at the first pour, perhaps a tad too cold. With aeration and some gentle coaxing, it gradually opened up, allowing more and more of the luxuriant dark berries to emerge, offering notes of blueberries, blackcurrant, violets and a touch of sur maturite, the bouquet glowing positively with a quiet intensity that eventually leapt right out of the glass, the wine becoming more relaxed and softer, framed by fine supple tannins, displaying excellent depth, concentration and definition such that by the end of the meal, the wine had developed to the extent that it would have been quite impossible to tell apart from a Bordeaux. Yet to peak. Excellent.
Ric's Wine Journal 