London: 2006 Pinino Brunello di Montalcino & 2006 Dujac Morey St-Denis 1er Cru

Apart from catching a couple of football matches at Manchester and White Hart Lane, as well as concerts at the Wigmore Hall, Royal Festival Hall and the Royal Opera, Covent Garden, my recent trip to London included a couple of dining experiences at Zafferano, Knightsbridge, and The Ledbury, Notting Hill. There wasn’t much of a palpable difference between these one- and two-Michelin star establishments, respectively, though I thought I fancied the former slightly more.

2006 Pinino Brunello di Montalcino, a half bottle from the restaurant list over dinner at Zafferano, 19 Oct 2011, for GBP52. Rather full-bodied and one-dimensional initially, almost overwhelming with a mix of red and darker berries, although one appreciates the excellent concentration and balance without any jarring edges in spite of its relative youth. The alcoholic trace receded over time and food, the red fruits becoming more dominant, the wine opening up to reveal more layering, supported by darker fruits beneath whilst the subtle plumminess of sangiovese became more noticeable. Very good, really. I find that Tuscan reds offer some of the best value in restaurant lists and this is no exception.

2006 Domaine Dujac Morey St-Denis 1er Cru, a half-bottle from the restaurant list over lunch at The Ledbury, 21 Oct 2011, for GBP54. A shade heavy in color for pinot, but arresting in its exuberant bouquet of sweet strawberries, cherries and other red fruits right from the first pour, matched by an intensity that held the palate in a firm grip. It opened up quite quickly over time, revealing layers of brambly fruits and cedar, the tannins more relaxed and supple, eventually transforming into a soft fleshy wine true to its Burgundian spirit with excellent balance and depth. Highly rewarding, but needs time.