Farewell to Yoshi: 2013 Leflaive Bâtard-M, 2017 Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes, 2012 Grivot Vosne-Romanée Beaux Monts, 2012 Hudelot Nöellat V-R Les Beaumonts

Russ hosted a superb evening on 20 December 2021 at Yoshi, named after Chef Yoshiyuki Kashiwabara who, sadly, is returning to Japan. Trained as a kaiseki chef at Saitama prefecture, Yoshi-san had been the personal chef to ambassadors based in San Francisco and Singapore before moving to Singapore in 2012. On the eve of his imminent departure, Chef Yoshi-san once again treated us to his exquisitely refined creations done in the true style of Kyo-Ryori cuisine of Kyoto. Dōmo arigatōgozaimasu and all the best, Yoshi-san! We will miss you.

2006 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal. Lovely luminosity, effusive in gun smoke with a bright recessed mature chalkiness already imbued with a certain complexity. Beautifully layered with dense yellow citrus and refined acidity that exude cool dry intensity with great clarity, merging well with a greater expanse of chalky elements to exert an austere gleam within a smooth creamy sheen that stretched with lingering persistence. Superb.

2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er. Pale. Cool icing with subtle traces of vanillin dominate, somewhat understated though eventually the white tones of Chassagne came through with distilled intensity. Became rather placid again, almost closing down before picking up with emergent high-toned acidity. Not ready.

2017 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Very pale and cool, proffering great clarity amid overtones of lemongrass. Beautifully expressive with a layered depth of nutmeg and exotic characters, displaying superb balance, proportion and precision with rounded intensity. Just a tad short. Excellent.

2013 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Russ. Pale. Rather placid, proffering delicate detail with subtle intensity, its layers of white fruit tightly coiled with stern minerality. Distinctly reluctant. Took a really long time before things snapped into focus with emergent pomelo and bitter lemon, eventually fleshing out with lovely fullness. Gently balanced. A feminine Leflaive. One is truly drinking the vintage.

2012 Domaine Hudelot Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint, exuding light raspberries and cherries on the nose with superb purity. Medium weight. Very fresh and cleanly structured with lithe agility and good refinement.

2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Russ. Good colour. Wonderfully fragrant in dense rosy characters on a bed of velvety earthiness, at once sultry, alluring and seductive. Wonderfully supple as well on the palate, imbued with subtle red fruits amid a saline trace, laced with sublime acidity and intensity. This is classic burgundy at its best.