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Mar 2022: 2019 PYCM St-Aubin Les Banc, 2012 Philippe Livera Gev-Cham Clos Village, 2006 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet MdL, 2019 Vincent Bouzereau Meursault…

April 14, 2022

2019 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthière. Tasted 2-3 Mar 2022. Pale golden. Delicate intensity of clear citrus, green fruits and melons supported by sleek acidity and well-integrated ferrous elements. Rounded with superb tensile presence. Great potential. Deserves proper ageing.

2014 Francoise Chauvenet Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge. Popped and poured from the list of The Tavern, 04 Mar 2022. Light rosy hues against a darker medium-full palate of blueberries, dark cherries and cedar, displaying rounded contours and well-managed tannins with a rustic presence. Developed further density of floral characters and smoked meat with a sweet velvety intensity before shedding its fat, attaining a classic pinot poise with fine definition.

2019 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Les Banc. From the list of 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 05 Mar 2022. Pale greenish. Effusive in morning dew and green citrus, displaying an intense reductive character with gleaming clarity and structured intensity. Superbly refined as it settled down with a delicate dry chiseled quality.

2012 Domaine Philippe Livera Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village. From the list of 67 Pall Mall Singapore, 05 Mar 2022. Deep crimson. Beautifully integrated and balanced, deeply inviting. Imbued with an abundance of dark plummy fruit laced with sleek understated acidity, revealing darkish inner detail as it traversed the palate with superb length and linearity to a finish marked by early secondary characters of cedar and plums. Excellent, really.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles-Vignes. Popped and poured at Liang Kee, 06 Mar 2022. Pale. Effusive sheen of vanillin with full chromatic white tones. Silky smooth. Developed more of intense yellow citrus and tropical fruits with a certain stoniness before opening up with fine inner detail amid an understated sweet intensity.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet. Decanted at home, 08 Mar 2022. Dark purple. Raspberries, distant red fruits and dark currants dominate amid strong overtones of capsicum, bramble and woody elements. Medium-full. Fairly rounded, laced with well-defined acidity on a base of ferrous minerals that lent a distinct austerity to the palate, fleshing out only to a certain extent with a glimpse of sweet wild rose petals without going any further. Frustrating, given the vintage’s quality.

2018 Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz, a carafé from the list of restaurant Claudine, 10 Mar 2022. Impenetrable deep garnet, proffering a dense bouquet of cool black fruits and dark currants that’s quite typical of Clare Valley shiraz. Opened up a little with a lovely biting intensity amid glowing tones of mocha, toffee and savoury roast, rounding off with a minty lift.

2018 Vasse Felix Filius Chardonnay, at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Effusive in peaches and fig with a smooth chalkiness. Medium-bodied. Distinctly minerally, imbued with some nutmeg. Fine clarity. Easy finish.

Champagne Jacquart Mosaïque Brut NV at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Clear and yellow citrus dominate with good presence, its very fine bubbles caressing the palate with a smooth dryness that tapered with fine linearity to a gentle flinty finish.

2016 Lyeth Sonoma County Red Wine at the Singapore Airlines Krisflyer Lounge, Changi T3, on 11 Mar 2022. Muted dark currants tinged with earth amid a dash of spice, structured with soft understated tannins imbued with discernible vanillin. A true merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend, but undistinguished.

2020 Schreckbichl Colterenzio Pinot Nero, from the list of Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill, London, on 13 Mar 2022. Fairly effusive in rosy hues. Softly contoured with very good presence of red fruits, cherries and rose petals. Has a certain concentrated depth and youthful intensity. Does its job.

Crémant de Bourgogne Veuve Ambal Grande Cuvée Brut NV, from the list of Rules restaurant, London, 15 Mar 2022. Dull golden. Excellent dry presence. Rather full, layered with complex citrus and fig amid mild yeasty undertones. Distinctly more pungent on the nose over time, developing further notes of grapefruit on the palate. Drinking well.

2014 Rugra Scajeta Monferrato Rossi, from the list of restaurant Majenta, London, on 16 Mar 2022. Predominant red fruits and mandarins with a bright forward presence. Fleshed out with soft supple textures amid a growing understated sweet intensity, imbued with gentle delicious plummy tones with charred elements.

2016 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes, from the list of 67 Pall Mall, London, on 17 Mar 2022. Darkish. Weighty in dark fruits and currants. Well-extracted with controlled intensity. Considerably more dryish over time, displaying good structure and precision. Delicious, but requires further cellaring.

2019 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrees, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Mar 2022. Greenish hue with muted green tones and fig on the nose though there is an excellent expanse of green fruits and citrus on the palate, structured with tight intensity at first before settling down with more open detail, supported by a subdued chalkiness. Deserves more time to sort itself out.

2015 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot Noir, tasted by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 23 Mar 2022. Deep crimson. Resolutely shut on the nose. The busy medium-full palate is well extracted with rounded intensity, slightly stern with dominant darkish tones that refused to open up. Doesn’t quite hit the mark for pinot noir.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at Ka Soh, 27 Mar 2022. Light greenish hue. Morning dew and wet grassy tones dominate on the nose. The palate is imbued with a broad expanse of fruit with overtones of nutmeg, dense minerally elements and white pepper that opened with good clarity before tightening up again with a controlled intensity, revealing some inner detail with lovely precision as it turned slightly chalkier and creamier. Deserves further cellaring.

2017 Château de Chamirey Mercurey La Mission 1er, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Poured from magnum. Greenish hue. Effusive in gentle floral tones, light green fruits and citrus. Medium-full. Softly contoured, imbued with characters of preserved plums and nutmeg that convey a warm velvety sweetness with fine detail and understated structure.

2005 Château Gazin, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Deep garnet. Effusive glow of mature dark plums and currants. Open, supple textures of cool dark fruits on an understated earthy base that exert exciting acidity, imparting lovely mouthfeel and length. Highly refined and elegant.

2019 Domaine Vincent Bouzereau Meursault at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Pale greenish. This wine opens with delicate white tones and cool icing, teasing with further notes of tropical fruits as it evolved a rounded fullness with gentle depth. Developed an excellent dry presence over time, the palate basking in a long unhurried glowing finish that stretches forever. A real steal.

2006 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 30 Mar 2022. Deep golden, exuding a dry laid-back chalkiness with mature autumnal characters, structured with placid white tones and understated acidity that shone with cool regal elegance.

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