Ric's Wine Journal

I enjoyed the privilege of a great evening in the company of people who didn’t mind pushing the boat out for a regular meet-up at the Shangri-la Singapore on 17 March 2021. The wines speak for themselves. I only need to thank my host for having me in mind, and to everyone for their generous contributions.

1996 Champagne Dom Pérignon, courtesy of K. Reticent at first, yielding more of delicate yeast on the nose with gentle depth after some time. The palate is still remarkably tight with a dry minerally intensity imbued with distinct ferrous elements, opening up in the glass with more of white smoke and dense yellow citrus as it took on a gleaming chalkiness. Excellent.

2017 Hospices de Beaune Meursault-Charmes Cuvée de Bahezre de Lanlay 1er. Poured from magnum. Its relative pallor belies a superb lift of effusive floral aromas and tangy detail, stinging the palate with a lithe fleeting intensity of white citrus and complex tropical fruit that carried tremendous verve, generously layered with superb clarity, integration and supple acidity topped with cool icing as it finished in a blaze of peppery white glow. Bouchard has nailed it beautifully. Outstanding now, clearly destined for greatness.

1992 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault, courtesy of W. Rounded stately tones with mature crème de la crème emanate from golden hues. Medium-bodied. Rather reserved and polite at first, gradually warming up to reveal fine citrusy detail within a deeper vein of poised tropical fruits, more sprightly as it eventually fleshed out with unrestrained depth and agile intensity. Superb.

1985 Château Haut-Brion, courtesy of K. Poured from magnum. This wine exudes a most alluring soft earthy pungency amid further traces of oriental medicinal powder. Generously layered with moderate depth of fruit that exerts a fleshy suppleness and lithe acidity that teased the palate with great presence and agility, its melted tannins offering excellent transparency. Very naturally balanced and still remarkably fresh. Caught at its peak. Superb.

1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of T. Evolved ruby, proffering an effusive perfumed fragrance of red fruits and rose petals tinged with haw that is simply quite beguiling. The fully mature palate boasts refined acidity that is still remarkably fresh, infused with lithe supple tangerines – the unmistakable hallmark of D.R.C. – that finished with superb glowing persistence. Excellent.

1995 Château Latour, courtesy of KM. Deep ruby. Open with a classic glow of mature claret that exudes quiet charm. The palate is highly supple and agile, layered with a gentle velvety depth of succulent red fruits that exert understated power with a relaxed feel. Not showy at all in spite of its obvious joie de vivre, impeccably proportioned and balanced albeit within a slightly narrower frame than usual for Latour, proffering a more subdued masculinity. Drinking superbly now, and will hold for many more years.

1990 Château Montrose, courtesy of D. A superb complex of red plums, ripe cherries and red roses sprang from its glowing ruby depth with unbridled lift and intensity, laced with an irresistible pungent earthiness that yielded great detail within the abundant layers of glorious fruit supported by sublime acidity, still unbelievably youthful as it traversed the palate with tremendous verve, effortless grace and supreme elegance, superbly proportioned and balanced in spite of its obvious power. Seemingly immortal, for this is distinctly more youthful, agile and energetic than a previous bottle tasted ten years earlier. Still far from peak maturity. Amazing!

The good guys at The Vintage Club, Singapore, kindly extended an invitation to me to attend a tasting across Zoom of the 2012 wines of the Vauthier family on 10 March 2021 with Pauline and Eduoard Vauthier, the current proprietors. I’ve had the privilege of visiting Château Ausone twice, in 2016 (hosted by Pauline) and 2019 (hosted by her brother Edouard) and it was really good to have a live meet-up with these two wonderful persons again. For many, myself included, Château Ausone represents the pinnacle of Saint-Ëmilion. Located at a high point just south of the village overlooking the King’s Tower, only 18,000-24,000 bottles of Château Ausone are produced annually from just 7 hectares of vines planted on a mixture of limestone and clay soils at a density of 12,000 vines per hectare. Even fewer of its second label, the Chapelle d’Ausone, are produced, only some 5,000-9,000 bottles annually, thus accounting for the relative scarcity of Ausone on the secondary market. The estate has adopted organic viticultural techniques since 2005, becoming fully certified in 2020.  There is more cabernet franc at 70% with the remainder merlot although in bottle, the blend is usually about 60-40 proportion. The average age of the vines is 60 years with the oldest being planted in 1906 (cabernet franc). The château avoids pumping, preferring to move the wine into fermentation vats via gravity.

Any visit to Château Ausone would usually include a tasting of Château Simard, an estate formerly belonging to a relative which has been incorporated into the Vauthier portfolio since 2007. Made from 75% cabernet franc (which ripens well in today’s warmer climate) and 25% merlot grown on sandy soils with some clay and vinified largely in concrete vats, this wine is clearly made for early drinking. The 2012 Château Simard, harvested especially late in October 2012, shows up as dusty crimson with red plums and ripe dark berries amid earthy tones on the nose, developing an effusive rosy fragrance over time with lovely characters of wild flowers in bloom. Rather softly rounded on the palate with fruit that is set a little backward with a dash of vegetal tinge, structured with silky smooth tannins and fine acidity. Drinking well.

The 2012 Chapelle d’Ausone, a blend of 60% cabernet franc, 25% merlot and 15% cabernet sauvignon from younger vines aged about 15 years vinified in lightly toasted new oak for 20 months, appears rather opaque with some bricking. Shy at first, this wine proffers only glimpses of dark roses, haw and summer fragrance though eventually growing in confidence, exuding a distinct feminine glow that is very correct. The medium-full palate is rather brightly lit with a predominance of red fruits, very sleek and rounded with seamlessly integrated acidity that imparted good verve and balance, finishing well.

In comparison, the 2012 Château Ausone, showing a deep garnet red, is equally shy, allowing only glimpses of floral fragrance with a touch of vanillin, taking its time to develop a gentle glow of wild berries and haw, becoming more dimensional on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is imbued with very good presence of red fruits and currants that exude a certain warmth, greatly enhanced by the superb balance between the fruit and minerally elements, seamlessly integrated with well-resolved tannins and fine acidity, finishing with excellent linearity and persistence. Not showy at all. Clearly a wine that would reward further cellaring patience even as it is approaching its drinking window.

Many thanks again, Pauline and Edouard and Vintage, for your time and the privilege. Merci!

Champagne Ernest Rapeneau Extra Brut NV, courtesy of Jimmy at his residence, 05 Feb 2021. Brightly lit with very good concentration of crisp clear citrus, forwardly balanced with a pleasing dry intensity.

Champagne Moët & Chandon MCIII NV, courtesy of Jimmy at his residence, 05 Feb 2021. Delicate lift of incense and ferrous elements, whilst generous white fruits and clear citrus dominate with tight intensity on the palate amid distinct overtones of cordite. Quite seamlessly integrated and lovely.

2017 Sandhi Bentrock Chardonnay, courtesy of LF at Jimmy’s residence, 05 Feb 2021. This wine opens with distant cool icing, fresh green fruits and delicate citrus, imbued with classic white floral and creamy tones amid further overtones of white pepper and nutmeg, very seamlessly integrated with minerally elements in equal measure that gave off a peculiar oily bright shiny characteristic on the mid-palate. Rounded with lovely fullness. Excellent.

2006 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé, courtesy of CJ at Jimmy’s residence, 05 Feb 2021. Grapefruit and orange peel on the nose with an appropriate hint of gun smoke, quite sharply accentuated. Distinctly more minerally on the fullish palate that is almost creamy smooth, exerting very fine dry intensity and fresh acidity that exude a cool clean feel. Very lovely.

2006 Aubert UV Vineyard Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF at Jimmy’s residence, 05 Feb 2021. This wine from the Sonoma Coast exudes a forward nose of small sweet dark berries, wild fruit and raspberries. Well-extracted with a rounded warmth and ripeness, still exerting a distinct alcoholic trail that adds to its tough angular intensity.

2010 Champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé. Popped and poured at Shang Palace on the occasion of Mom’s 90th, 06 Feb 2021. Some early complexity on the nose, showing grapefruit, orange peel and yeasty tones with some earthy pungency. Excellent concentration of fruit with a lovely smooth presence, developing very fine ferrous aromas and minerally characters over time. Not too dry. Excellent.

1996 Château Léoville Poyferré, aired in bottle at Shang Palace on the occasion of Mom’s 90th, 06 Feb 2021. This wine opens with plenty of verve and tight intensity in spite of its twenty-five years. Still immensely dark, imbued with fine density of black fruit and currants tinged with capsicum, gradually opening up with greater dimension and detail, structured with supple tannins. Evolving at a glacial pace, still yet to peak. Excellent.

2016 Meerlust Rubicon, popped and poured at home, 10 Feb 2021. Deep ruby. Generous bouquet of raspberries, violets, cherries and dark currants that exude a lovely floral fragrance. Open with excellent presence and inviting depth, revealing layers of fruit with controlled intensity amid supple tannins. Very well balanced, finishing with fine linearity. This wine can take its place in any line-up. Excellent.

2008 Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Popped and poured over lunch at Otto Ristorante, 11 Feb 2021. Light golden hue, exuding an attractive bouquet of green fruits and citrus with distinct but subtle ferrous elements. Smoothly contoured with very fine bubbles, showing excellent presence, zest and integration with good clarity and some early subtle nuances. Developed glowing intensity and structure as it finished with slightly darkish tones. Drinking well, just missing the fabulous detailing that its sister estate Salon has in spades.

2016 Serafini & Vidotto Il Rosso dell’Abazia, popped and poured at the in-laws, 11 Feb 2021. Deep garnet red. Not revealing much on the nose though the palate is firmly laden with dark raspberries, black fruits and wild berries underscored by some tough intensity, rather unyielding as well. Probably needs plenty of time to come around.

2004 Rockford Black Shiraz. Popped and poured over Lunar New Year dinner at Mom’s place, 12 Feb 2021. The fizz has faded somewhat, allowing more of the Basket Press characters of black cherries, dark currants, licorice and dark plums to emerge with very good presence within a thin sheen of fine bubbles, laced with a dash of sweetness and just a hint of its fabled liqueured depth. No longer what Black Shiraz can truly offer but still enjoyable.

2016 Tenuta Lena Di Mezzo Monte Del Frà Amarone della Valpolicella. Popped and poured at Dorothy’s place, 13 Feb 2021. Deep garnet red. Attractive high plummy nose. Medium-full. Forward in wild berries and bright red fruits trailed by a distinct alcoholic wake before gelling together after some time, turning fuller with richer velvety textures tinged with traces of earth and licorice.

2000 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. Decanted on-site at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 14 Feb 2021. Deep garnet red, proffering dense black fruits and black currants infused with substantial ferrous elements that imparted a stern profile. Took an hour to gradually open up with a classic glow of mature claret as it morphed into a seamless lush entity, almost velvety, glittering with graphite detail and slick acidity amid intense supple tannins before revealing further notes of earth and mahogany. Still rather youthful. For the long haul.

2015 Domaine Paul Pillot Santenay Vieilles Vignes. Popped and poured from the restaurant list of Madame Fan, 16 Feb 2021.  Lovely deep ruby, proffering red fruits and ripe wild berries. Generous intensity of dark fruits on the palate, rather sharply accented with a very clean feel, softening a little to reveal some inner detail and velvety warmth after an hour. Promising, but I don’t think we gave it enough time. Probably not ready as well.

2017 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured at home, 24 Feb 2021. Consistently impressive in its open white tones filled with excellent minerally detail. Very correctly nuanced, displaying excellent presence, balance and proportion with refreshing zest, developing further overtones of nutmeg, olives and white pepper. A wine to be enjoyed now while your 2017 grand crus bide their time.

2015 Eileen Hardy Chardonnay, tasted over two days 27-28 February 2021. This wine possesses an oily richness within dense minerally textures, packed with tight concentration of peaches, citrus and orchard fruit that saturate the palate with lithe intensity underpinned by very fine sleek acidity, finishing with a slightly stern trace. Not for those who prefer their chardonnay to be more delicate.

I enjoyed the privilege of another outstanding dinner hosted by Messrs Yu père et fils with the usual suspects on 22 February 2021 at Imperial Treasure Great World, now most certainly the best restaurant in Singapore for outstanding Cantonese cuisine and impeccable wine service. All wines were also generously supplied by my hosts, unless otherwise stated. Thank you, Sirs!

1988 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal. Superb luminosity. Deeply perfumed bouquet of yeast, clear citrus and graphite minerals amidst a chalky density, exuding tremendous allure and complexity, developing further traces of medicinal powder over time. The palate has an equally refined intensity of citrus and longans, oozing suave acidity with seamless depth and layering in an amazing display of astonishing freshness and clarity in spite of its thirty-three years. Outstanding.

2000 Château d’Yquem ‘Y’ Ygrec, courtesy of Sir Bob. Dense perfumed aromas of orchard fruit and pears. Very well concentrated on the palate, topped with crème de la crème and vanillin. Open with sublime acidity, revealing seamless depth and lovely intensity as it finished with great linearity in a fabulous complex of diesel, earth and mint. Still yet to peak. Excellent.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Volnay-Santenots 1er. Aired in bottle for three hours prior. Displaying a mature murky crimson, this wine is amazingly fresh with a very clean feel, somewhat lean at first even though it exudes a very fine presence of mature raspberries, strawberries and currants with lively intensity. Became more rounded over time, developing plummy tones with a bit of velvety trace without any attenuation of its high-toned acidity.

2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes 1er, courtesy of Andre. Lovely evolved pinot tint, exuding a gentle glow of red fruits, ripe berries and currants. Open with rounded supple tannins, showing excellent definition and refinement. Poised with quiet confidence and understated intensity, its innate feminine character still quite discernible in spite of the masculine nature of the terroir. Excellent.

1999 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Bright translucent ruby, exuding an understated delicious fragrance that led to a lively medium-bodied palate imbued with bright red fruits, mulberries and raspberries underpinned by a ferrous earthiness. Quite beautifully open and supple. Morphed into a rounded whole over time, very well-proportioned yet effortlessly balanced, maintaining its confident understated poise throughout the evening. An introspective Bonnes-Mares, very much like the man himself who once said to me: “I only look after the garden. I don’t shape the flowers”. Truly.

2003 Tertre Roteboeuf. Decanted on-site. Deep crimson, proffering rich layers of dark fruit with a savoury hint amid sweet overtones of glycerin. Showed a distinct acidic edge initially that betrayed the searing heat of that vintage before morphing into a more seamless whole with fine intensity and minty tones, just a little short at the finish.

1986 Château Mouton Rothschild. Still very dark at its deep garnet core, showing just a dash of crimson at the rim while rich swathes of dark fruit and black currants leap from the glass with a luxurious glow that hinted strongly of velvety depth. Medium-bodied. Very lively and open with supple tannins and ripe plummy tones imbued with a deeper core of understated minerals. Rather slender, displaying fine precision and slick acidity. Very well-proportioned and balanced. Quite the complete wine even though I’d tasted previous examples that were on even better form.

2006 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru. Dull golden. In spite of having been decanted for nine hours prior, this wine was still quite reticent on the whole, opening with an expansive bouquet of recessed chalky white tones and tropical fruits whilst the medium-full palate is amply endowed with refined fruit and acidity on a dryish floor of stony minerals that gained greater prominence over time, imparting a shade of austerity and heaviness in its structured density. No doubt still a classic Montrachet in the Drouhin mould, but best to lay down for another decade, at least.

1958 Château d’Yquem. This is the darkest hue (above) of d’Yquem that I have encountered, exuding a superb lift of mint, apricot and sweet incense. Still astonishingly fresh and intense after sixty-three years, retaining excellent structure, acidity and definition that imparted great verve and supple mouthfeel. Still has decades of life ahead. Superb!

These were wines drunk at a dinner at Imperial Treasure Fine Teochew Cuisine at Guoco Tower, Singapore, on 15 February 2021, hosted by the great man behind SC Global who had generously brought a couple of the wines as well. Thank you, Sir!

1995 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé. Quite heavily scented with the lovely fragrance of strawberries, light cherries and rose petals whilst the palate carries a slightly forward balance of grapefruit and red tangerines, quite open with softly rounded bubbles that yield very fine presence, detail and definition. Very well balanced and not at all angular, taking on an attractive minerally shine after some time as it finished well with a trail of clear citrus. Excellent.

2011 Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Lim CP. Pale but highly effusive in its explosive bloom of glorious perfumed aromas that is truly beguiling, matched by excellent concentration of white fruits tinged with traces of green capsicum that shone with regal elegance on a bed of recessed chalkiness, exuding a very clean seamless mouthfeel with fine detail and exemplary balance. Quite poised and ethereal, gaining in youthful intensity over time amidst gentle minerally tones that eventually culminated in a rich creamy glow. Better than the 2009. Outstanding.

1990 Château Latour. Decanted on-site. Still rather dark at its core, exuding the classic hallowed glow of a mature claret with sweet savoury undertones. Softly rounded with a fleshy abundance of black fruits and dark currants tinged with capsicum, yielding excellent transparency, subtle definition and supple tannins, displaying rich complexity yet understated in manner through its superb control of power, structure and balance. Supremely proportioned. Caught at its peak and will hold for many more years. Outstanding.

Our small group met again soon after our first on 22 January 2021 at Origin Grill, Shangri-la Singapore, on a New World theme where we broke our own rule by bringing 2n+1 number of bottles. 

Champagne Ruinart NV, a bottle stored for more than twenty years by Sir Bob. Light golden. The benefits of extended cellaring, even for non-vintage champagne, shows in the very deep characters of toast, yeast, caramel and apricot that burst upon the palate with amazing freshness and attack, seamlessly integrated with subtle green fruits, clear citrus and ferrous shades, still blazing with dry intensity and superb length as it developed further overtones of burnt ends. A great calling card for Ruinart. 

2007 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of Vic. Light golden, proffering a very lovely deep earthy pungency that contrasted beautifully against the full crisp minerally palate, imbued with excellent concentration of clear citrus, yielding fine clarity and dry intensity amidst the sheen of very fine bubbles. Excellent.

2014 Peter Michael Belle Côte Chardonnay, courtesy of Kieron. Light golden. Rich creamy textures dominate on the nose and palate amidst overtones of glycerin and caramel, rather forward with a trace of sweetness and a suggestion of lusciousness. Developed further minerally tones over time with a classic tinge of paraffin, exuding lovely complexity with gleaming intensity and length. Excellent.

2006 Aubert Lauren Vineyard Chardonnay, courtesy of LF. Dull golden. Complex bouquet of white tones, mint and crème de la crème. Richly layered with excellent concentration of white fruit topped with caramel, snapping into focus after some time with gleaming intensity and minty length, appreciably more forward as well. Quite sublime.

1994 Williams Selyem Olivet Lane Vineyard, courtesy of LF. Musty red. Powerful deep plummy bouquet of unprecedented immediacy, leading to a full palate of dense ripe fruit infused with a certain salinity, finishing with minty overtones. I really can’t imagine this to be pinot noir. Very different from another bottle tasted in July 2019 that was beautifully delicate and fragrant.

1997 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep garnet red. This wine opens with a hint of warm gravel on the nose while ripe red fruits dominate with excellent presence on the open velvety palate, fresh and forward though beautifully balanced with superbly integrated acidity, developing better length over time. Excellent.

2008 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23, courtesy of Kieron. Deep garnet red, exuding a deep floral fragrance from an abundance of dark currants and raspberries. Open with lovely depth and concentration with sweet rounded tannins that imparted lasting intensity all the way to its sweet minty finish though very subtly nuanced throughout, ensuring that it is never unduly hedonistic. Excellent.

2005 Mount Mary Quintet. Double-decanted for two hours prior. Open on the nose with a classic cabernet nose of dark currants, raspberries and deep plummy tones tinged with capsicum. Fleshy and softly rounded, ample in red fruits with a ferrous core though there is a distinct leafiness as well, structured with great suppleness and balance but its finish is short. Drinking very well but dwarfed on this occasion by the Americans.

2006 Dominus, courtesy of Vic. Opaque purple. Effusive in glycerin and vanillin on the nose amid crimson tones of camphor. Highly supple and fleshy with a quiet intensity, generously endowed with dark fruits and currants that showed great integration and freshness, betrayed by just a flash of alcoholic heat at the finish.

2005 Dominus, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep garnet red. Ripe red fruits and currants dominate, laced with a distinct note of graphite. Beautifully lush and rounded. Highly refined and open though its overall demeanour is distinctly darkish. Very different in character from the 2006.

2009 Rockford Black Shiraz. Very fine presence of racy warm ripe Barossa shiraz with subtle nuances of licorice, cedar and dark currants adding a further savoury dash. Very smoothly contoured with refined tiny bubbles, displaying good length with an enticing liqueured depth. Very enjoyable. A classic Black Shiraz.

2001 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz, 03 Jan 2021 at Jade Palace. Double-decanted for four hours prior. Deep garnet core with some evolution, proffering powerful aromas of varnish and enamel. Supple with a classic Barossa warmth of ripe plummy tones amid overtones of licorice and currants that lingered with minty persistence, imbued with subtle intensity. Uniquely Australian.

Champagne Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut NV. Popped and poured at Asia Grand, 10 Jan 2021. Rather pale, though the palate is lit with brilliant crystalline clarity, lightly layered with a clean presence of green fruits and citrus that impart dry intensity, tinged with darkish elements. Serviceable.

2017 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes prior to dinner at home, 11 Jan 2021. Chalky white tones permeate on the nose and palate with fine density amid overtones of white pepper, raw nutmeg and exotic spices which add further presence, detail and intensity, finishing with subtle minerally elements. Another bottle tasted over two days from 20-21 Jan 2021 was more restrained and introspective, yielding more of jackfruit, apricots and peaches only on Day 2 with a glowing finish of white pepper and nutmeg, well-balanced but still rather understated. At any rate, this is a wine that truly punches way above its weight. A real bargain at SGD34.

2018 Coldstream Hills Chardonnay, popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 16 Jan 2021. Warm apricots, peaches and dense citrus in great abundance on the nose and palate, delivering a fresh clean presence at the right concentration with just right the touch of creaminess, yielding good detail and layering as it finished with lasting white tones. I can’t get enough of this stuff. Excellent.

2007 Champagne Henriot Millésime Brut, poured from magnum at Kappo Shansui, 19 Jan 2021. Displaying a clear luminosity, this 50:50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay (comprising equal proportions of premier cru and grand cru) proffers a lovely rounded depth of toasty yeasty characters marked by an attractive earthiness, open with a broad expanse of ripe yellow citrus and peaches that exude subtle dry intensity, just a touch minerally at the finish. Not the most profound of expression but drinking well.

2017 Blanc de Lynch-Bages, courtesy of Vic at Kappo Shansui, 19 Jan 2021. Pale. Rather shy though the medium-bodied palate is quite brightly lit with white fruits with a slightly forward balance, displaying refined sublime acidity with lithe delicate intensity. Not as heavy as white Bordeaux may sometimes be. Excellent.

2009 Château Ormes de Pez, courtesy of KP at his residence, 26 Jan 2021. Very deep dark red. Abundant in cassis, black fruits and dark cherries, saturating the palate with a velvety supple fullness though its angular intensity is still a bit too pronounced at this stage, lending a touch of austerity to its finish. Needs plenty of time.

2016 Tinazzi Ca’ de’ Rocchi Amarone della Valpolicella La Bastia, popped and poured at home, 28 Jan 2021. Dull red. Surprisingly feminine, proffering rosy hues and perfumed fragrances on the nose while the medium-bodied palate is shaped by smooth rounded contours with the relaxed charm of raspberries, cherries and red fruits tinged with cedar and glycerin. Nothing cerebral but drinking well.  

2014 Domaine A & P de Villaine Saint-Aubin Les Perrières 1er. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 30 Jan 2021. Dull golden. Effusive notes of aged butter, honeyed toast, cashews, distant peaches and bananas with an attractive early complexity. Medium-full with a predominance of glazed caramel on the palate amid cool tones of icing that exude delicate intensity with fine detail, developing more white tones over time with growing intensity of fine citrus. Very elegant and well integrated. Excellent.

Sir Bob got us off to a generous start this New Year on 12 January 2021 at Imperial Treasure Great World with a pair of Domaine Leroy, now outrageously expensive but nobody is complaining when there is so much begging to be drunk. This dinner also marked the new formula of 2n for the number of bottles to be drunk at any of our events (where n = number of persons), replacing the previous n+1 🙂

2017 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc. Aired in bottle for two hours prior. Brilliant clarity, evoking characters of cool icing and vanillin with an expanse of chromatic white tones. Shows good concentration of clear citrus, displaying fine layering, inner detail and agility aided by fresh acidity that imparted good structure, precision and intensity. This is not even the estate’s La Mission 1er monopole. Great value.

2002 Champagne William Deutz Brut, courtesy of LF. Deep bouquet of burnt oak, toast and roasted cashews with yeasty undertones, displaying fine complexity. Possesses excellent clarity and freshness, marked by fine presence of citrus and minerally tones that conferred a bit of gunmetal flint, turning slightly stern as it finished with dry intensity. Good stuff.

2017 Domaine du Château de Meursault Meursault Charmes Dessus 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Straw-coloured. Effusive notes of vanillin and frangipani cloaked within an attractive sheen of paraffin, exuding sweet gentle fragrance with a sense of oiliness on the mid-palate, showing good clarity with very fine acidity and verve. Excellent but pricey nowadays.

1999 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Auxey-Duresses Les Écusseaux 1er. Aired in bottle for three hours prior. Displaying a lovely crimson hue, this wine is imbued with excellent depth of red fruits, dark currants and distinct earthy elements amid secondary nuances of tangerines, wonderfully fresh and agile with sublime acidity, subtly structured with fine precision as it finished with good length. Superb value.

1993 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep ruby. Cherries, red fruits and haw dominate with subtle intensity, amply layered, imbued with fairly intense acidity. Wonderfully supple and fleshy, slightly forward in fruit balance but all the better in the face of such amazing freshness, just a tad short. Excellent.

1993 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Highly inviting on the nose, its crimson depth evoking a lovely deep rounded fragrance that led to a great open suppleness, imbued with abundant fruit that is still remarkably fresh, traversing the palate with superb length and intensity worthy of a grand cru. Quite outstanding.

2000 Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Classic pinot tone, proffering a generous bouquet of glorious red fruits tinged with characters of ash and incense. Highly ample with a lush elegance, seamlessly layered with very fine open density within its rounded fleshiness, laced with great acidity. Carries a certain pedigree and correctness. Caught at its peak. Excellent.

2006 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Decanted at short notice. Penetrating ruby tinged with crimson, proffering a wonderful depth of dark cherries and small ripe berries with a dash of earth, displaying superb suppleness and subtle intensity on the open palate where its balance is quite exemplary, exuding great lift and acidity. Has real sophistication and breed, perhaps even outperforming its own credentials. Outstanding.

2009 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Ripe plummy fruit with a sense of pebbly warmth dominate on the nose, matched by a deeper core of tangerines on the open fullish palate, showing great refinement in its subtle display of early secondary characters and controlled intensity. Still rather youthful. Excellent.

2012 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault Les Chevalières, courtesy of LF. Aired in bottle for two hours prior. Enticing cool vanillin dominate with lovely presence on the nose whilst the medium-bodied palate is saturated with chalky detail and dense complex citrus, exuding great harmony and brilliance with chiseled definition. Truly a world-beating village. Excellent.

The great man marked his happy day on 09 January 2021 with a lavish home-cooked dinner amongst a small group, adhering strictly to social distancing regulations. With a specially curated selection of wines from his deep cellar (drunk from Zalto stemware, no less) to complement the great food and wonderful friendship, it was the perfect evening. Thank you and many happy returns, Dr Ngoi!

Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Orizeaux Brut NV. Pale. Gently layered with predominant green fruits within a very fine sheen of soft bubbles that exude delicate dry intensity. On the lean side, showing good definition with a subtle minerally shine in the mid-body.

2010 Benjamin Leroux Chassagne-Montrachet Tête du Clos 1er. Stony white tones on the nose amid subtle minerally notes, fleshing out with rounded fullness and intense acidity as more of classic Chassagne characters took hold. Very well balanced but still tight, finishing with lovely persistence.

2005 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru. Decanted from magnum. Pale. Slightly more effusive in whites tones though still rather subdued on the whole with an ethereal poise, imbued with lifted sublime acidity amid traces of earthy minerals. Developed a greater sense of chalkiness with a fuller tone of white fruits after further aeration, beautifully balanced and rounded without revealing much inner detail as its feminine restraint persisted throughout the evening.

2011 M Chapoutier Ermitage De L’Orée. Attractive nose of peppermint gum. Rounded with good concentration of white fruits that imparted some fleeting intensity, just a tad forward. Fleshed out with a lovely sheen of crème de la crème amid cool tones, revealing fine inner detail.

2009 Domaine Jacques Cacheux Vosne-Romanée La Croix Rameau 1er. Slightly darkish in colour though its bouquet is marked by alluring perfumed aromas matched with bright harmonious tones of redcurrants, plums and red fruits on the medium-bodied palate, fairly rich in layering, finishing well. One of only three owners of this 0.6 ha premier cru, Cacheux’s ownership occupies just a mere 0.16 ha.

2007 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cuvée Christiane. Tasted blind. Displaying a well-evolved crimson, this wine exuded cherries, raspberries and red fruits with a lovely feminine fragrance, superbly balanced with quite a full rounded elegance on the mid-palate, open with early subtle secondary nuances. Very much on song. I’d thought it might be a mature Clos de Tart. Highly consistent with another bottle tasted in November 2020. Excellent.

2007 Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Tasted blind. Good colour. Red fruits and dark cherries dominate on the nose and palate with a deeper core of tangerines, exuding a high-toned acidity with fine gentle intensity. Wonderfully balanced. Distinctly feminine. Excellent.

1992 Château Margaux. Poured from magnum. Still darkly coloured, exuding that classic glow of a mature claret amid overtones of fresh earth and undergrowth. Medium-full and highly supple, imbued with stern ferrous minerals that imparted a slightly gruff demeanour that is further enhanced by its darkish tones.

2013 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan. Bright purple. Layered with a gorgeous abundance of ripe berries, blackcurrants and violets, forwardly balanced with vibrant tension and ample concentration that conferred a certain rasping intensity though it never tipped into uncontrolled hedonism, smoothly contoured with fleshy suppleness and fine inner detail. Already accessible. Excellent.

The wines for this dinner at Iggy’s on 18 December 2020 were centered around one kilogram (yes, that’s correct!) of fresh white truffles that LF had specially flown in from Alba the night before. Even Iggy himself was astounded. With a customised menu to match the endless flakes of truffle that we shaved ourselves, it was truly another evening to remember. Thanks LF!!!

1994 Domaine Marc Colin Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Lovely luminosity, exuding an equally lovely expanse of mature chalky white tones. Quite resplendent with a dense minerally presence, showing fine gritty detail with great purity and refinement, laced with a fairly dominant acidity that imparted regal intensity, elegant freshness and clarity. Finished with a cool minty persistence amid austere minerals. Excellent.

2011 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Vic. Lovely luminosity. Very gentle elegant nose of white floral tones and white fruits with other exotic notes. Layered with excellent richness and detail, imbued with a deep vein of fruit and acidity that conferred great purity and exuberance, culminating in some minty intensity at the finish. Very lovely and elegant.

2017 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Pale. Effusive glow of cool icing and vanillin with expansive white tones on the nose with an additional dash of raw nutmeg on the palate, displaying superb body and concentration, seamlessly layered with great clarity and subtle detail. Developed even greater tonal expanse and linearity after some time, yet remaining highly elegant. This is a wine that speaks to you. De Montille’s Corton-Charlemagne is always very special, on par with Bonneau du Martray. Already drinking very well, but it would be wise to cellar further. A magnum of the awesome 2005 (it’s inaugural vintage) tasted at the domaine is still etched in my mind.

1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne, courtesy of Sir Bob. Quite deeply coloured with distinctive tones of mature apricot and plums, appropriately weighty with a bright chalky shine amid a dash of sweetness before opening up further with tremendous searing intensity. Excellent.

2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of CHS. Mesmerising deep ruby, matched by an equally deep concentration of bright red fruits and cherries with distinct ferrous undertones. Medium-full. Beautifully refined in its purity and intensity of fruit, laced with sublime acidity and intensity. Excellent.

1994 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Still very deeply coloured, delivering full concentration of dark plums and red currants with subtle minerals, layered with glorious fruit that conferred sweet undertones. Slightly forward with with a lovely rounded intensity. Still remarkably fresh. Superb.

1994 Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Deep impenetrable red, displaying a lovely lift of dark fruits though the palate is discernibly brighter than expected, filled with rich plummy tones that exert full rounded intensity, structured with velvety tannins that lent some degree of austerity at the finish. Still imbued with superb youthful freshness. Still not ready!