1989 Chateau Pichon Baron Longueville 1990 Domaine de Chevalier
These are notes from an impromptu and indulgent dinner at Bistecca, 30 Jan 2013. John had volunteered to bring both reds, and as the restaurant has a strict one-for-one corkage policy, we pulled a sparkling and a white off the restaurant list to precede the reds.
We began with a Bisol Jeio Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOC NV (SGD70) that was quite agreeable, forward with notes of fresh green melons and apples with a dash of malt and yeast without being too dry, refreshing and delightful enough. The 2007 Sugarloaf Ridge chardonnay (Tasmania, Australia), popped and poured, possessed an unique pungency initially, almost akin to bottle stink, that I’ve never encountered before in any white. However, this gave way to the classic chardonnay character of white flowers, cashews, crackers with a dash of tropical fruit, supported by rich creamy minerality that grew in intensity, imparting a solid mouthfeel and a sense of complexity. Most interesting.
Each of us ate two steaks that evening (yes…a 250g Filletto followed by a 350g Lombata…pure madness), paired with both reds (decanted on-site) simultaneously. The 1990 Domaine de Chevalier, caught at its peak, was medium-bodied and utterly seamless, awashed with warm ripe dark berries supported by a mild earthiness as well as secondary nuances of toast, wild mushrooms and cedar that emerged with a powerful glow, a wine crafted with understated sophistication, which is why I have a special affection for this estate. It would have been quite outstanding in its own right, were it not for the 1989 Ch Pichon Baron Longueville that upstaged it. Compared to the Chevalier, the Baron was more immediate and forward, a bigger wine that simply gave you everything at once: a highly aromatic bouquet of red and dark fruits with plenty of secondary notes of cedar, violets, kirsch, cinnamon and a touch of leather, much more forward than usual, much less of the usual dryish Pauillac character, while the kaleidoscope of flavours and layering on the palate was simply quite marvellous, displaying ample depth with excellent concentration but never too dense, highly focused and linear, tapering to a long finish. Superb. Still remarkably fresh and lively, and I believe it may yet evolve further. Great stuff. Well, that was definitely too much good food and too much great wine for an evening that’s unlikely to be forgotten. Thanks, John.
2007 Brokenwood Mistress Block, a bottle purchased directly from the cellar door at Hunter Valley back in Dec 2009, popped and poured at Asia Grand on 4 Jan 2013. Full-bodied with notes of ripe shiraz imbued with characters of raspberries, raisins, dark chocolate and a hint of licorice, dripping with mint and menthol but very well-balanced and proportioned, the tight silky tannins imparting an elegant feel.
1998 Majella cabernet sauvignon, double decanted under temperature control for 90 minutes and aired further in bottle at Imperial Treasure Great World before serving, 5 Jan 2013. 
This wine was worth all that effort, no question about it. The cork was fractured as a result of dessication, but emerged without total fragmentation, giving way to a great deal of bottle stink initially but which disappeared totally after some time. The bouquet is dominated by notes of dark currants, blackberries, violets and cedar that led to a wine of considerable maturity, distinctly medium-bodied, soft and fleshy, the fruit not showing any sign of drying out, not overtly weighty nor exuberant, but very well-balanced. It got better and better as dinner wore on, eventually developing tertiary notes of leather, cinnamon, cassis and tangy citrus that combined to produce a most lovely glow on the nose that was remarkably similar to what one would experience from a well-aged claret, something that I never knew was possible from an Aussie cabernet. Excellent.
2009 Stefan Kollmar Auslese (courtesy Jeremy), popped and drunk over a live telecast of Manchester United against Liverpool, 13 Jan 2013. Quite a lovely bouquet indeed, with notes of peaches, rock melons, fig, pears and pineapples but it didn’t quite live up to expectations on the palate, possessing neither the intensity nor potential complexity expected of an auslese although its balance cannot be called into question.
2010 Siete Soles, a straight merlot from Chile, popped and drunk right after the Stefan Kollmar above, 13 Jan 2013. Yet to shed its heavy cloak of wood, alongside a peculiar note of malt and wheat that thoroughly obscured the underlying fruit. Don’t waste your hepatocytes on it.
2011 Torbreck GSM, SGD90 from the limited (and unimpressive) wine list of The Exchange, 16 Jan 2013. Popped and poured. What impressed was that this wine was crafted such that textures remained open and light, with flavours that reminded me of Beaujolais. Otherwise, it’s just a simple and unremarkable wine, finishing with a stiff tannic spine.
2005 Vincent Girardin Mersault “Les Charmes-Dessus” 1er Cru, over an excellent set lunch at the University Club, 18 Jan 2013. Popped and poured, displaying a lighter tinge of gold, very clear indeed. Not quite as exuberant as I’d have expected from this producer, but there are enough of fig, melons and a dash of vanilla amidst understated minerality and fragrance on the nose and palate, yet to develop any significant complexity. I’d have preferred a little more intensity and character. Perhaps it needs more bottle age.
Adami Dei Casel Prosecco, a glass of which at Oso Ristorante, 24 Jan 2013. Rather pleasant with grassy notes balanced against lively citrus, not too dry, straightforward but efficient.
2009 Gaja Langhe Sito Moresco DOC, at Oso Ristorante, 24 Jan 2013. Popped and poured. Highly attractive from the first pour, medium-full with chewy tannins framing the broad swathes of red fruits, raspberries and wild cherries with a trace of sweetness at the edges, supported by notes of forest floor and earth, imparting a hint of complexity. Soft, rounded and accessible. Very good.
1990 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, decanted on-site at Al Borno, 26 Jan 2013. This was a wine that took quite a while to get going, seemingly backward and lacklustre at the first pour. After some time, notes of blueberries and ripe wild berries began emerging to the fore, the wine firming up, developing a greater sense of depth and intensity. Eventually, the tertiary characters of leather, cinnamon and violets appeared amidst smooth, rounded, velvety textures. Quite excellent.
1976 Ch La Conseillante
This is the second time in six months that I’ve had the privilege of drinking this wine, courtesy of a bottle from John, popped and decanted over a lovely dinner with the family at Capri on 11 Jan 2013 at the end of a long and busy week. The 1976 Ch La Conseillante certainly looks the part of a 37-year-old wine, the cork dessicated, the wine displaying a dull dusty (almost murky) red. But it sprang to life immediately upon the first whiff, offering a bouquet of mild medicinal and herbal aromas, still stuffed with abundant fruit that had tapered over the years into a raisiny note with overtones of lacquer. As one would expect, the acidity was beginning to fade on the palate although enough remained to impart some liveliness at the edges, the wine utterly smooth and seamless with good density (rather than outright depth), becoming more open in texture over time, eventually developing a chewy velvety feel by the final few pours. Certainly a much better bottle than my initial experience. But I wouldn’t keep any longer.
Ric’s Most Memorable Wines of 2012
Here goes Ric’s choices, based on my tasting experiences in 2012…
Best Unaffordable Red: 1995 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (February). Absolutely superb. At Les Amis and, of course, someone else paid for it.
Best Affordable Red: 1994 Ch L’Evangile (March). The wines of 1994 have taken a long time to come around, and the best hail from Pomerol, of which L’Evangile is truly wonderful. Almost on par with Petrus of the same vintage (not surprising, considering they are adjacent estates), but why shell out extra cash when the difference isn’t significant?
Most Memorable Red: 1988 Ch Troplong Mondot (April). A classic aged claret, memorable because I had it at the best dining venue in New York – Eleven Madison Park.
Best Value Red: 2005 Ch Bernardotte (magnum) (May). It surpasses some of those over-rated classified growths. This is where your smart money should be.
Most Disappointing Red: 2004 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru (March). I’ve stopped buying Faiveley: prices aren’t cheap, and I’ve always felt short-changed by its quality. This Clos de Beze is a poor example of this outstanding terroir.
Worst Red: 2002 Clonakilla shiraz-viognier (January). Mind you, all previous examples of this estate’s flagship shiraz have impressed me deeply, but this 2002 was worse than a supermarket red.
Best Unaffordable White: To be honest, I hadn’t had any that blew my mind and wallet.
Best Affordable White: 2004 J J Prum Graacher Himmelreich kabinett (March). Wonderful. I can’t imagine anyone not liking this immensely.
Most Memorable White: 2000 Grosset Polish Hill riesling and 2005 Heymann-Lowenstein ”Uhlen Roth Lay” Erste Lage Auslese Gold Kapsule. A tie. The former because I’ve never had a 12-year old Australian dry riesling that was still every bit as heavenly; the latter because I had it at another premier dining venue in New York – Per Se.
Best Value White: 2009 Domaines Leflaive Macon-Verze (July). Tasted several times with consistent notes. Punches way above its weight.
Most Disappointing White: 1988 Ch Rieussec (March). Tasted twice. Consistently disappointing. I’ve stopped drinking Rieussec.
Worst White: None, thankfully.
I must thank all friends and contributors who had so unselfishly made available these wines for tasting. Bon vin et merci beaucoup!
Notes in brief (Dec 2012): 1990 La Dominic, 1982 Meyney, 2001 Elderton Command, 1997 La Conseillante, 1998 Beausejour Becot
2002 Penfolds St Henri shiraz, at Ben’s BBQ, 01 Dec 2012. Part of a half-dozen mis-priced at only SGD58 about 5 years ago from Bottles & Bottles at Parkway Parade. Aired in bottle under ice cover for almost an hour. Deep, dark, luxurious with plenty of blackcurrants and sweet ripe shiraz from a cool growing season, as evidenced by the marked absence of heat stress nor alcoholic trail, utterly smooth and rounded, weighty yet remarkably well-balanced. Superbly crafted without any jarring edges. I’d say it’s yet to peak, but it is absolutely beautiful to drink at this stage.
1982 Ch Meyney (courtesy John), popped and poured from magnum at Ben’s BBQ, 01 Dec 2012. Aired in bottle under ice cover for about 45 minutes. Still very much alive with the unmistakable signature of a well-aged Medoc – the dry smoky tannins imparting a dusty texture, the fruit slightly backward and musty, the acidity levels already dipping low, contributing to the overall smoothness. Yet to dry out but I wouldn’t keep any longer.
2011 Wither Hills sauvignon blanc, at the Krisflyer Business Class lounge, Changi Airport T3, 4 Dec 2012. Goes very well with food, a wine that grows on you, medium to full bodied with attractive notes of tropical fruits, peaches and pineapple, liovely without the overt crispness, matched by limey minerality. I guess you can’t really go wrong with any sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand.
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV, over dinner at Choon Seng Punggol Seafood restaurant, 16 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. More of lifted aromas of white flowers and fresh clear citrus rather than the usual toasty yeasty notes, supported by delicate minerality and lively acidity combined with fine gentle bubbles, ensuring that the wine doesn’t veer too much towards dryness.
2005 Patrick Javillier Savigny-les-Beaune “Les Serpentieres” 1er Cru, over lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 17 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Third time I’ve had this wine, and this was the best experience, by far. Caught at an exciting stage where the wine has clearly enetered its drinking window, soft yet fleshy, hitting all the right notes of red cherries, camphor and dark rose petals carrying just the right weight and body without any hollowness, supported by understated earthy minerality. It doesn’t quite have the intensity and opulence of a Gevrey-Chambertin, but it can certainly hold its ground on any table.
2007 Palazzo Desti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, at Imperial Treasure T3, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Medium-bodied with a prominent plummy tone, no doubt from the sangiovese, with other red fruit characters, softening into a more relaxed wine after some 30 minutes, littered with a dash of spice and licorice that offered some grip on the palate. Enjoyable.
2006 L’Hospitalet de Gazin (courtesy Ben), at a ward dinner, Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Medium-full and surprisingly firm for a second wine, with aromas of dark cherries, wild berries and earth amidst other gravelly textures, soft at the edges, grippy on the palate. It’s really quite good, actually.
2005 Ch Bernadotte, at a ward dinner, Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Popped and poured from magnum. Compared to a previous tasting earlier this year, this wine seems to have become more withdrawn and reticent, a quiet nose of blueberries and dark currants lurking in the background, firm and full on the palate, yet to shed its vanillin coat nor made any progress in development. But I can imagine it turning into something deep, dark and delicious over time. Plenty of potential.
1998 Ch Beausejour Becot, at a ward dinner at Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Still relatively unevolved in color, offering notes of licorice, chocolate, enamel, plums and orangey citrus with a trace of sweetness, fairly full and weighty on the palate, developing greater depth and layering with lighter textures after 60 minutes, eventually exuding a powerful complex glow. 
Excellent but still yet to peak. Keep.
1990 Ch La Dominic (courtesy John), at a ward dinner at Wall St Bistro, 18 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Although hailing from the same commune as the Beausejour, this wine possessed an immediacy on the nose that was more arresting with fragrant notes of red roses and red fruits combined with an attractive earthy note, gradually gaining in power and weight over time, displaying complex tertiary characters that were quite lovely. Gives the impression that the wine has yet to peak. Excellent.
1998 Ch Lanessan, over a cote du boeuf at Wall St Bistro, 21 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Slightly uneven initially, eventually gaining weight and smoothening out with attractive notes of tangy citrus, red fruits, forest floor, cedar and cinnamon, carrying good weight and body though neither rich nor opulent. But it’s still a good drop, and probably the best Lanessan I’ve had. At SGD33, I’m happy to drink this any time.
Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV, at an early Christmas dinner on 22 Dec 2012. Popped and poured, drunk over 30 minutes. Very well-balanced at the start with lifted notes of lively lime and citrus flavours coupled with delicate minerality, not much of the usual toasty notes. However, it began veering towards more dryness, threatening to become abrasive. I suppose it was drunk way too quickly. Will reserve judgement.
2010 Grosset Polish Hill riesling, at a Christmas Eve lunch at Moomba which, incidentally, is the last meal being served at this restaurant as it is closing down for good. Aired briefly in bottle. A broad swathe of peach, green melons, green apples and lively citrus, forward in character, obscured the underlying minerality, eventually developing a slightly steely and flinty note in the mid-body that led to an austere finish. Seemed unsettled and somewhat awkward at the moment. This is a highly age-worthy riesling and I’d leave my remaining bottles alone for at least another few years.
2001 Elderton Command shiraz (courtesy John), at a Christmas Eve lunch at Moomba. Double-decanted and aired further in bottle for 3-4 hours prior to tasting. I’ve always been impressed with this estate’s flagship shiraz and this tasting note confirms. Displaying some bricking at the rim, this aged shiraz is still remarkably full-bodied but superbly balanced, the huge body of smooth ripe fruit explodes on the mid-palate in a burst of spice, pepper, licorice, sweet plums, wild berries and dark currants enveloped by a lovely warmth and structure, possessing just the right degree of depth, utterly smooth and sophisticated without any alcoholic trail, inviting one to partake more with each sip without causing fatigue to the palate. Not quite the last word in complexity, but probably all the better. Superb.
2006 Ch Malartic-Lagraviere, popped and poured at La Barca, 28 Dec 2012. Already quite accessible at this stage with notes of violets, blueberries and dark currants, displaying excellent concentration, weight and balance without being in-your-face. Yet to shed its vanilla coat from the wood, and neither has the Pessac-Leognan terroir surfaced. Expertly crafted.
2011 Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc (courtesy F) at the Dept year-end dinner, Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Fruit-forward with notes of melons, fig, pears with a lovely degree of ripeness, leading to a cool, refreshing finish. Very good, in fact.
2006 Peccavi chardonnay, at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Quite precocious with generous notes of cream and buttery wafers, displaying substantial fat within the mid-body, supported by rich minerality. More focused and tight compared to a previous tasting several months ago. Excellent ageing potential.
2001 Baroosa Old Vines shiraz (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Popped and poured from magnum. Predictably huge and full-bodied, but remarkably well-balanced, the unmistakable character of Barossa shiraz picked at optimal ripeness, offering an attractive mix of red and dark fruits, camphor and rose petals underlined by powerful herbal and medicinal aromas, displaying excellent weight and depth. Yet to peak, I’d say, and just slightly less sophisticated than the Elderton Command shiraz of the same vintage. Quite excellent. A superb bargain at SGD88.
1998 Tahbilk shiraz (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Markedly different from the above wine, the bouquet dominated by a powerful glow of tangy citrus and plums, highly attractive, rounded and well-balanced on the palate, littered with notes of mint and menthol. Very good.
2004 Clos du Marquis (courtesy F), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Coming at a distinct disadvantage immediately right after those Aussie reds, this claret appeared totally laidback and disinterested, struggling to gain the palate’s attention. Nevertheless, the classic Bordeaux balance is quite apparent, smooth and easy and drinking very well now.
1997 Ch La Conseillante (courtesy John), at Cotton Bleu, 28 Dec 2012. Decanted on-site. Coming last in the line-up, but clearly the wine of the night. Surprisingly powerful on the nose with notes of dark cherries, spice and earth, almost matching the Aussie reds, medium-full on the palate with excellent weight and definition without any hollowness. Quite unbelievable, for a 1997. Excellent.
2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, popped and poured at Ka Soh, 29 Dec 2012. Quite open with a mix of red fruits and raspberries, not as plummy as one might have expected from the sangiovese, gaining in weight and concentration very quickly, well-balanced, soft and fleshy with subdued tannins. Very pleasant and attractive.
2004 Voyager Estate cabernet merlot, my last drop for 2012, drunk at an office New Year’s Eve party, 31 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. One can easily discern the stern structured and smoky cabernet against the softer, more supple merlot. But in spite of the abundant fruit, the marriage here isn’t quite harmonious, lacking in character, rather generic tasting.
1982: Figeac, Leoville-Poyferre, Montrose & 1975 Haut-Brion
An impromptu Bacchus dinner called at extremely short notice as a final push before the New Year ended up being a 1982 Bordeaux horizontal to celebrate the 30th anniversary of this great vintage, vindicated amply by the wines we drank this evening, 26 Dec 2012, which all displayed great longevity, complexity, vigour and freshness in spite of the bottle age. 
And to make things even better, chef Michele of Otto Ristorante rose effortlessly to the occasion with a selection of his signature creations, topped with shavings from his final lot of Alba white truffles.
We began with a 2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne (courtesy Li Fern) that was popped and poured. Served a tad too cold initially, but notes of melons, pears, fig and traces of nectar were already readily apparent along with substantial fat in the mid-body, highly perfumed and glowing with delicate minerality, gaining further depth with a thrilling complexity, staying the course throughout dinner, finishing on a slightly ferrous note. 
Much preferable than the 1999. An excellent start.
The four reds that followed were drunk simultaneously. I can still remember when I last had a 1975 Ch Haut Brion, which happened to be the occasion of Hiok’s farewell dinner at Moomba in early March 2006 before he left for sabbatical. It was quite fitting, therefore, that he brought the same wine (decanted on-site) for dinner this evening, but what a difference! Whereas the previous tasting seemed to indicate a premier cru on its last legs, the current bottle, in spite of its dull dusty red, was still remarkably robust with powerful aromas of earth, old leather, camphor and sweet incense that morphed into intense medicinal aromas, but in a positive sense, almost full-bodied and grippy on the palate with a tinge of licorice and a final note of tangy citrus without fading away. Most memorable.
The 1982 Ch Figeac (courtesy Kieron, decanted on-site) displayed initial full-throttled earthy aromas of wild berries and damp forest floor with an attractive ferrous quality, no doubt from the cabernet sauvignon which is the predominant component of the wines of this estate. It gradually evolved with emerging red fruits of excellent depth and concentration, just a tad angular and austere on the finish before finally hitting its stride after two hours, turning into a warm, homogenous and feminine wine. Very lovely. Next to it, the 1982 Ch Leoville Poyferre (courtesy Danny, decanted on-site) possessed the powerful unmistakable Saint Julien signature of a highly complex bouquet characterised by a graphite, ferrous quality married to a strangely attractive pungent note that hinted at substantial fat, but the wine was distinctly medium-bodied on the palate, outdone entirely by the highly seductive bouquet, its beautiful, complex and high-toned glow continued to entice the olfactory senses throughout the evening. 
Too beautiful to be drunk, and I suppose this estate never diasappoints, regardless of vintage. Finally, the 1982 Ch Montrose, still remarkably deep in color, was wildly exuberant with powerful dank earthy aromas (old socks ??) amidst notes of violets, cedar and dark currants with more than a touch of greenness on the palate. It gradually settled into a quiet complex harmonious whole, the leafy notes eventually disappearing totally, displaying great structure and delineation. A classic Left Bank, bringing an outstanding dinner to its conclusion. Enjoy the pictures.
Notes from Down Under: Rockford, Hardys, St Hallett, Bird in Hand, Henschke, Penny’s Hill
The following are short notes from a recent trip to Melbourne and Adelaide. While it has become fashionable to dismiss Aussie reds as one-size-fits-all fruit bombs, I strongly feel that the unique Australian terroir of dry, hot, arid lands is best defined by its shiraz, and I’m pleased to report that most of the shiraz I’ve tasted were generally glorious, with those from the Barossa claiming the honours. With the exception of a few other bright spots here and there, you can forget about everything else, and I’m not a big fan of South Australian whites.
2008 Pyrenees cabernet sauvignon, over dinner at PM24, Melbourne, 6 Dec 2012. Popped and poured. Dark and jammy. Heavy with sweet plums and licorice, spicy at the edges, refusing to ease even after two hours.
2010 Port Phillip Estate pinot noir, at the tasting room of Port Phillip winery, Mornington Peninsula, 7 Dec 2012. Suitably light in color and texture, medium-bodied with the usual red fruits amidst a mild salty minerality but ultimately unmemorable.
2010 Port Phillip chardonnay, tasted at Port Phillip winery, Mornington Peninsula, 7 Dec 2012. Made without malolactic fermentation, resulting in a wine that’s lean in body and texture, dominated by crisp citrus and chalky minerality without the usual creamy buttery characters, and not much depth either.
2009 Kooyong Estate pinot noir, a half-bottle (AUD39) over an excellent lunch at the classy restaurant of Port Phillip winery, Mornington Peninsula, 7 Dec 2012. Dull dusty red, earthy saltiness, camphor, enamel, dark roses and raspberries, doesn’t quite match up on the palate, seemingly a tad too cautious. Could do with more layering and complexity.
2010 Kooyong Estate “Ferrous” pinot noir, tasted at Port Phillip winery, Mornington Peninsula, 7 Dec 2012. Packs power and elegance, glycerin, bright cherries and red fruits, excellent depth, not too weighty, seamless and linear. Excellent.
2012 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling, tasted at the cellar door of Rockford winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Crisp and lively with a predominance of yellow citrus and stony minerality, clean and dry on the finish.
2009 Rockford Moppa Springs cabernet shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Rockford winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Full, ripe Barossa fruit where the structured dark chocolate and earthiness of the cabernet is balanced against the spicy peppery shiraz, matched by fine supple tannins. Excellent.
2010 Rockford Rifle Range cabernet sauvignon, drunk over an outstanding dinner at Walkerville Chinese Restaurant, Adelaide, 10 Dec 2012. Full-bodied, imbued with blackberries and dark currants amidst other notes of earth, forest floor and dusty tannins with a mild aftertaste of sweet licorice. 
But watch out for that 14.5% alcohol which will rear its ugly head if the ambient temperature is too warm.
2012 disgorgement of the Rockford Black Shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Rockford winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Simply gorgeous, the layers of complexity from the mix of various vintages of the estate’s fabulous Basket Press Shiraz already readily apparent, finishing with its signature liquered finish, though mild at this stage. Still priced at only AUD58 after all these years. I wasted no time securing a half dozen (the cellar door limit for two adults).
2010 St Hallett Eden Valley Riesling, tasted at the cellar door of St Hallett winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Very similar in character to Rockford’s riesling from the same source – clean, crisp, lean and dry.
2010 St Hallett Scholz Estate single vineyard shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of St Hallett winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012 and again two days later over dinner at Prof Horowitz’s residence. From a plot located north of the Barossa. Very lovely, full-bodied but balanced, layered with raspberries, red currants and darker berries with an extended finish, already hinting at some early complexity. A wine with plenty of character. Excellent.
2010 St Hallett Blackwell shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of St Hallett winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. A blend from various plots in the Barossa. Smooth, medium-full, weighty but well-balanced without any trace of alcoholic heat, just lacking in real character.
2009 St Hallett Old Block shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of St Hallett winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Also a blend of Barossa shiraz but from very old vines. Weighty, extracted but well-balanced with chewy tannins. But I’d expected more character for the asking price of AUD100.
St Hallett Black Shiraz NV, tasted at the cellar door of St Hallett winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Similar in idea to the Rockford Black Shiraz but less successful, missing in real layering and potential complexity, coming across as just a pleasant sparkling red.
2010 Henschke Lenswood Pinot Noir, tasted at the cellar door of Henschke winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Substantial in body and weight with notes of bright raspberries and rose petals, but there’re many other far better examples around.
2010 Henschke Tappa Springs shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Henschke winery, Barossa Valley, 10 Dec 2012. Almost full-bodied, loaded with smooth ripe shiraz fruit of excellent concentration and weight, superbly crafted without the jamminess.
And a little secret from Henschke…in anticipation that the 130-year-old vines responsible for the famous Hill of Grace may not be able to continue much further, Henschke has used cuttings from some 20 of the best of these vines to produce a new line of flagship single vineyard shiraz, now called the Hill of Roses, the 2007 vintage presently only available from the cellar door at AUD230 (not available for tasting). Expensive, in my opinion, but prices can only move in one direction. There’s no choice but to start stocking up.
2008 Hardys Oomoo chardonnay, tasted at the cellar door of Hardys, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Made from fruit grown in the Adelaide Hills. Notes of cream and vanillin oak, slightly buttery, with good presence and balance. Refreshing.
2011 Hardys Oomoo shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Hardys, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Made from fruit grown in the same locality. Dense bouquet with herbal aromas and notes of forest floor. Smooth and even, not jammy at all in spite of the 14% alcohol. Just a tad short. I’d be happy to put this on any table.
2008 Hardys Reynella Basket Pressed shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Hardys, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Displaying a sharper peppery accent on the nose that is highly attractive. Dense in color but not in texture, possessing superb structure, focus and concentration with tannins well in check. Excellent. I must look out for this back home.
2009 Hardys Tintara McLaren Vale shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Hardys, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. A predominance of red fruits, sweeter, less dense and more open than the Reynella with a hint of spice and plum at the edges.
2005 Hardys Upper Tintara shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Hardys, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Noticeably accented and minty on the nose and palate, dominated by peppery notes, leading to a long long finish. More rustic in character compared to the Reynella Basket Pressed.
2009 Mr Riggs Adelaide Hills Cold Chalk chardonnay, tasted at the cellar door of Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Minimally oaked, resulting in a lean wine dominated by grassy notes.
2011 Penny’s Hill The Handshake chardonnay, tasted at the cellar door of Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Quite unlike an Old World chardonnay. More of grassy green notes tempered with a dash of vanillin, clean and dry at the finish.
2011 Penny’s Hill Cracking Black shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Weighty with a relatively sharp attack of warm shiraz fruit on the back palate.
2011 Penny’s Hill Skeleton Key shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Deep ruby. Heightens the senses with an intense, broad swathe of very ripe shiraz without the jamminess in spite of the 14.5% alcohol. Savoury with superb concentration and balance. Excellent.
2010 Penny’s Hill Footprint shiraz, tasted at the cellar door of Penny’s Hill, McLaren Vale, 11 Dec 2012. Similarly deep in color, but surprisingly more open and accessible than the Skeleton Key, with a hint of earth. Sourced from six rows within a single plot, aged in a mix of American and French oak.
Petaluma Croser NV, at Prof Horowitz’s residence, Adelaide, 12 Dec 2012. Open with attractive citrus, pomelo and melons, primarily fruit-driven, supported by clear minerality but, unfortunately, lacking in complexity and depth, and the brazen dryness doesn’t quite help.
Rumball Coonawarra sparkling red, at Prof Horowitz’s residence, Adelaide, 12 Dec 2012. Another sparkling red that’s primarily fruit-driven with raspberries and blackberries, but rather straightforward, lacking in depth and complexity.
2011 Bird in Hand Sparkling pinot noir, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Pears, melons, peaches, soft, not too dry. Very agreeable.
2012 Bird in Hand sauvignon blanc, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Feminine, aromatic, strawberries, but could do with greater intensity and fruit flavors on the palate.
2010 Bird in Hand chardonnay, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Lovely citrus, crisp, slightly creamy, recessed minerality. Very pleasant, as long as you’re not looking for anything too cerebral.
2010 Bird in Hand merlot, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Soft, minty, medium-full, forest floor, leafy.
2011 Two inThe Bush shiraz, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Soft, medium, fruit driven, short. Billed as an entry-level shiraz but falls short.
2010 Bird in Hand shiraz, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Soft, fuller than the above, ferrous quality, peppery, spicy without the outright intensity.
2011 Bird in Hand cabernet sauvignon, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Leafy, forest floor, austere, almost backward though with good delineation. Not my style of cabernet.
Bird in Hand fortified merlot, tasted at Bird in Hand cellar door, Adelaide Hills, 13 Dec 2012. Blended in old French barrels from vintages 2002 to 2008. Powerful, medicinal aromas, old leather, aged honey. Strictly for connoisseurs only.
Another bit of secret from Bird in Hand…apparently the 2010 vintage of it’s flagship shiraz under the line Nest Egg was voted by Winestate magazine in a recent 2012 issue as the “world’s best shiraz”, beating Henschke Hill of Grace as well as Penfolds Grange in a blind tasting. Only AUD95. Not available for tasting at the cellar door. I’ll let you know whether I concur 20 years from now.
2002 Rockford Basket Press shiraz, courtesy of Prof Gary Wittert at his residence, 13 Dec 2012. Simply popped and drunk neat over the next 75 minutes, first time I’ve ever consumed a Rockford in this manner. Very tight and masculine initially over the first hour, the wine coming across as a monolith of ripe warm shiraz blazing an alcoholic trail with notes of plum, licorice, prunes and spice in its wake. Gradually it began to loosen up, transforming into the Basket Press that I know, softer, more open, the initial layers emerging from the dense body, the wine more supple, the tannins silkier in texture. It was a pity I couldn’t stay on to witness how the wine would unfold further. But I assure you this is a great shiraz. Just make sure it’s properly decanted under cool temperatures for at least 2-3 hours prior to tasting.
Notes in brief (Nov 2012): 2012 Cloudy Bay
2000 Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale “Les Chetillons”, popped at Otto Ristorante, 14 Nov 2012. I’m halfway through half a case, and it gets better and better each time. Rich, with a dominance of burnt toast, a hint of smoke, malt and some yeasty undertones that’s simply begging to be cut right through by the sweet limey citrus and crystalline minerality, very lively at the sides, highly refreshing. In fact, there’s so much going on that it almost overwhelmed the palate. If only the bubbles were finer, but that is nit-picking at a wine that’s almost complete. Excellent.
2006 Domaine et Selection Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru, a half-bottle off the wine list of Iggy’s, 16 Nov 2012. Popped and poured. Rather reticent at first with some chilly minerality. However, after warming up to the right temperature, it opened up quite nicely with notes of almonds, walnuts with some cream and caramel, supported by stony minerality, lively at the edges. Could do with greater layering and fullness for a Grand Cru, but at SGD59, I don’t suppose one could really ask for more.
2012 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, at Wall St Bistro, 21 Nov 2012. Popped and poured, representing the first time that I’ve returned to this estate after an absence of many many years, largely in part due to a perceived drop in quality, an opinion shared by many oenophiles. But at the current price of SGD40 nett, I can’t see how things can go wrong, and I was right. Generous notes of white flowers, sweet pomelo, citrus, tropical fruits and kiwi fruit dominate the nose and palate with subdued minerality and understated acidity, rounded and well-balanced with a fair bit of complexity, finishing with a hint of apricot. A wine that comes across quite naturally without appearing to try too hard. Quite lovely, I must say, and I think I’ll be getting more.
Charles Hiedsieck Reserve Brut NV, at Changi Airport Silver Kris Lounge, T3, 23 Nov 2012. From the remaining bit at the bottom of a well-aired bottle. Surprisingly aromatic with a highly attractive oxidised note of malt, yeast, tropical fruits and yellow citrus with very fine non-abrasive bubbles, well balanced against the controlled minerality. Good stuff.
2010 Lupe-Cholet Chablis, at Changi Airport Silver Kris Lounge, T3, 23 Nov 2012. Rather lightweight with superficial overtones of cream and vanilla, served too warm. Not good.
Henriot Souverain NV, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ616 to Osaka, 23 Nov 2012. Quite generous with notes of citrus, lime and toast but unfortunately, the balance isn’t quite there, the wine veering on the dry side. Unresolved and almost harsh on the mid-palate.
2008 Ch Preuillac, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ616 to Osaka, 23 Nov 2012. This replaced a 2008 Ch La Garde that was promised in the menu. Surprisingly good for a Medoc, offering notes of dark currants, blueberries and violets, quite open and linear on the palate with good concentration and balance and even a hint of complexity without any leafiness. Very agreeable indeed.
2010 Christophe Cordier Macon-Charnay VV, at the JAL Sakura Lounge of Kansai International Airport, 28 Nov 2012. Dry with stony minerality, rather firm and linear. Carries good weight and decent concentration, but I prefer the fruit to be more forward in the absence of real complexity.
2010 Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ619, 28 Nov 2012. Medium-bodied with a bright stony minerality, vanilla and cream. Good presence, lively, but somewhat unresolved on the mid-palate.
2010 Marchesi di Frescobaldi Castiglioni Chianti, on board Singapore Airlines Business Class SQ619, 28 Nov 2012. Slightly heavier but open. Generous in red and dark fruits, camphor and medicinal spice. Good presence. Attractive.
A month of outstanding Bordeaux
1999 Ch L’Evangile, at Prive, 6 Nov 2012. My third bottle of this particular wine over the past 18 months, and certainly the best example by far, largely in part, I suspect, because it had been aired in bottle for two hours prior, and extra pains taken to ensure that it was served slightly chilled at the restaurant, in my opinion an essential requisite in the Singapore context given the severe ambient heat. 
Evolved to a brownish red, the wine exudes a powerful complex bouquet of raisins, cedar, cinnamon, dark currants and sweet plums, medium-full on the palate, fleshy with good concentration and depth, shrouded in soft tannins that still wielded structure, sophisticated enough, just missing in outright opulence and lushness but otherwise caught at an exciting stage close to its peak. Perfect with the 220g striploin. Quite excellent.
1990 Ch Sociando Mallet (courtesy John), at Imperial Treasure T3, 8 Nov 2012. Decanted on-site and aired for another 30-45 monutes before serving. This is, by far, the best example of this particular vintage for Sociando, the wine still dark ruby in color and remarkably fresh, exuding powerful attractive notes of old leather, saddle, cassis and cedar amidst fresh notes of violets and blueberries and other savoury characters, excellent in concentration without any sign of drying out. 
And it just got better and better in the glass, becoming broader and more expansive, almost rich and opulent. Easily on par with second or third growths of Bordeaux. Some have claimed that it surpasses Mouton Rothschild for that vintage. Hardly surprising. Superb.
2001 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, at La Barca, 9 Nov 2012. Aired in the fridge for almost two hours, followed by further aeration on-site. Noticeably more relaxed and fleshy compared to a previous tasting two years ago, revealing notes of violets, raspberries and dark roses tinged with a note camphor towards the finish (no doubt from the more-than-usual quantity of petit verdot that year), missing the richness and opulence of the best vintages. Became somewhat linear and non-descript after some time, the tannins gaining a bit of an attack in spite of 1.4 kg of wonderful wagyu littered with black truffles. 
A wine that hasn’t entirely settled. Best to leave it alone another few more years.
2009 Ch Croizet-Bages, shared with the wifey at Cotton Bleu, 10 Nov 2012. I know this wine has barely been bottled, but I was curious to find out how a 2009 would fare. Prior to tasting, I had it double-decanted for a couple of hours, followed by further aeration for another hour inside the fridge before bringing it to the restaurant. In spite of its youth, it seemed fairly approachable, possessing very tight concentration of dark fruits, slightly tarry and still coated with vanilla from the discernible wood, but the ripeness, definition, balance and absence of leafy notes were hallmarks of an outstanding vintage coupled with expert craftsmanship. If a lower growth could perform so well, I can only imagine that a premier cru would still be untouchable even 20 years from now. Be prepared to handover those to your next generation.
1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron (courtesy of Hiok) at his residence, 12 Nov 2012. Decanted for more than an hour by the time I arrived. 
There’s excellent concentration of dark fruits and currants, well balanced against the graphite minerality with plenty of tension and a hint of dryness at the sides, but this wine is still rather tight and backward within a narrow spectrum, yet to unfurl its secondary nuances. Consistent with most Left Bank 1996s which need to be left alone for, what, at least another 5-10 years?
1998 Ch Pichon Longueville Baron (courtesy of John), drunk side-by-side with the 1996 on 12 Nov 2012. I find 1998 to be grossly under-rated and it shows here. Compared with the 1996, this wine is a lot more relaxed and open with quite a generous bouquet of raisins, sweet meat, plums and a bit of burnt toast at the edges. Rounded, smooth and savoury on the palate with plenty of weight, but this is a wine that’s still yet to peak. Excellent.
1986 Ch Rauzan-Segla (courtesy John), decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 14 Nov 2012. An unstoppable powerful glow of a beautifully aged claret leapt from the glass with notes of sour plums, cassis, old leather against a background of perfumed violets and faint raspberries, totally seamless without any sign of dryness. 
Clearly still has the legs to last for many more years and, I dare say, preferable to the 1986 Gruaud Larose.
1990 Ch Rauzan-Segla (courtesy John), decanted on-site at Iggy’s, 16 Nov 2012. Still remarkably dark. Highly perfumed with notes of raspberries, dark cherries, red currants, shaded by age with violets, camphor and those indescribable aromatics of a beautifully aged claret, gentle on the palate, medium-bodied, still fresh and vibrant with superb presence, displaying the highest level of finesse and elegance, combined with power in a velvet glove. Wonderful.
1995 Ch Palmer (courtesy John) at Ruth Chris’ Steak House, Marina Mandarin Singapore, 18 Nov 2012. Decanted on-site. A powerful aromatic fragrance wafted over the table as the wine was poured, promising a fantastic experience ahead. However, it seemed rather unsettled on the palate, the fruit backward and obsured by a tannic spine, seemingly tight, lapsing into a withdrawn reticence for some time. Then, gradually, it opened up to reveal sexy supple tannins that danced with a quiet intensity with more of the glorious ripe fruit coming forward, displaying notes of violets, blueberries and dark currants from its layered depths, beautifully structured and perfumed, combining power and elegance effortlessly into a heady complexity. 
This wine blows away all expectations of a 1995, caught at a most exciting stage, still yet to peak. Superb. The perfect accompaniment to the perfectly done 430g USDA prime ribeye.
1995 Ch Leoville-Poyferre (courtesy Ben) at Ruth Chris’ Steak House, Marina Mandarin Singapore, 18 Nov 2012. Decanted on-site. Compared to the 1995 Palmer, this wine shot out of the starting block right from the first pour, at once more open and relaxed with highly inviting aromatics combined with great concentration and intensity with a trace of burnt and dryness at the edges, saturated with dark fruits and currants underscored by some degree of sweetness though without the ferrous quality of the Saint Julien terroir. It settled down without further development before being overtaken by the Palmer. An excellent wine, but I recalled the 1996 Poyferre being more preferable, with better definition and complexity.
1999 Ch Angelus, at Jade Palace, 22 Nov 2012. My third bottle from a half-dozen imported from London, and probably the best so far. Popped and poured. Deep in color, but somewhat unsettled, reticent and uneven at the beginning, rather mineral and ferrous. However, it eventually opened up very nicely, displaying broad swathes of surprisingly ripe fruit (for this vintage) with excellent weight and concentration, the tightly-knit tannins buzzing with a sweet intensity on the palate, the wine rounded and smooth with lively acidity. I note that both L’Evangile and Angelus of 1999 are excellent now. Is it time to call it a Right Bank vintage, coming right after 1998??
1996 Pichon Lalande, 1982 Lynch-Bages…
The wining and dining at the tail end of October continued unrelentlessly, the following being a dinner thrown by F at Cotton Bleu on 29 Oct 2012, an unpretentious bistro run by a French family that excelled in original French cuisine (generous portions, friendly on the wallet), coupled with excellent stemware and wine service where corkage is only SGD20. All wines (except the sparkling) were decanted on-site.
We began with a 2009 disgorgement of Rockford Black Shiraz, its tiny bubbles soft and gentle, imparting a medium-bodied wine with an excellent concentration of dark fruits and red currants coupled with notes of earth, forest floor and plum, yet to develop significant complexity, leading to its signature (mild) liquered finish. Quite excellent, and I look forward to further complexity with age. 
The 2006 Clos du Marquis (courtesy Ben) that followed was my second tasting in as many months, with consistent notes. A weighty bouquet corresponded with notes of red currants and raspberries, the wine medium-bodied, soft and fleshy although the spectrum of flavours and body seemed to be confined within a narrow bandwidth. Undeniably attractive, if just a bit short.
The 1990 Ch Gombaude Guillot (courtesy F), a small estate in Pomerol, was distinctly soft and mellow, very harmonious and almost burgundian in character with some cedar although it could do with greater fruit concentration, especially for this stellar vintage, which could have imparted more depth, layering and complexity. Undeniably pleasurable on its own, but on this occasion overwhelmed by the two lovelies from Pauillac.
The 1996 Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, displaying some browning at the rim, gave off highly complex aromatics of plum, citrus, cassis, soft and medium-bodied, displaying great depth, framed by very finely knit highly supple tannins, beautifully integrated, the whole impression unmistakably feminine. Notes of blueberries and darker fruits began appearing over time, laced with a trace of sweetness, the Pauillac signature of dried tobacco and snuff box appearing only towards the final pour. Very, very lovely. A wine caught at its peak, and will hold for many more years. Next to it, the 1982 Ch Lynch-Bages (courtesy John) was still relatively dark and youthful, highly perfumed, absolutely soft with a lovely opulence, almost lush and burgundian if not for its classic Pauillac character (though perhaps not as dry as expected). A superb end to quite an outstanding line-up of wines, making up for the stiff dinner company.
Ric's Wine Journal 