Ric's Wine Journal

Sir Bob hosted dinner (yet again, but nobody’s complaining) at Imperial Treasure Great World on 22 December 2021 on a theme of ”serious” burgundy, and he doesn’t disappoint. Many thanks, Sir!

2008 Champagne Thienot La Vignes Aux Gamins, courtesy of LF. This blanc de blancs opens with an effusive white floral bloom amid copious overtones of citrus and white fruits, leading to a racy high acidity palate underscored by pomelo and bitter lemon that display tremendous zest with a keen dry intensity.

1996 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc, courtesy of Sir Bob. Luminous cool white tones set against a chalky restraint, displaying understated verve with perfect balance and proportion. Grew in intensity over time, developing a seamless high-toned acidity with even more stunning white tones, still amazingly fresh in spite of its twenty-five years, tapering to a sweetish finish. Such is its impeccable pedigree that what is bourgogne for Leroy is easily grand cru elsewhere. Outstanding!

1991 Domaine Leroy Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Golden hue, showing a restrained presence of lychee and longans with a distinct maturity but still fresh with understated acidity on the medium-full palate. More rounded after some time with gentle complexity and an increasing dominance of paraffin on the nose, just a tad short. Excellent.

2010 Domaine Comte Lafon Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Pale golden. Rather quiet and placid with notes of cool icing, light green fruits and citrus tinged with paraffin. Medium-full, showing youthful verve and freshness with lovely tension before settling down with regal elegance and fabulous depth. Destined for true greatness.

1997 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, courtesy of Sir Bob. Light golden, exuding cool white tones with delicate intensity amid a hint of mature chalkiness. Has palpable breed and refinement. A classic Leflaive.

2014 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Proces 1er. Slightly darkish, proffering a superb lift of ripe red fruits and cherries with wonderful purity. Bright and highly supple, imbued with sublime acidity that exert lovely intensity and mouthfeel. Excellent balance.

2012 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er, courtesy of Sir K. Classic pinot tint. Unique effusive bouquet of heated wet gravel and summer hay. Medium-full, structured with supple tannins that display keen precision with a laid back intensity. Became more seamless over time with dryish textures, a tad austere.

2006 Domaine Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of WCY. Minty lift. Full-bodied, darkish in character, showing good extraction with cool clean tones and lean precision. Fleshed out with more rounded red fruits and tangerines underpinned by ferrous undertones, exerting lovely mouthfeel with superb textural integration.

2014 Domaine Georges Lignier Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, courtesy of Alvin. Classic pinot tint. Wonderful lift of red fruits with some early complexity. Superbly supple and open, displaying lovely purity. Excellent, from an under-rated producer.

2015 Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot Échézeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of LF. Quite deeply coloured, its flamboyant racy character on the nose delivering glorious layers of ripe raspberries and dark berries on the full palate. Rounded with good definition. Excellent.

Russ hosted a superb evening on 20 December 2021 at Yoshi, named after Chef Yoshiyuki Kashiwabara who, sadly, is returning to Japan. Trained as a kaiseki chef at Saitama prefecture, Yoshi-san had been the personal chef to ambassadors based in San Francisco and Singapore before moving to Singapore in 2012. On the eve of his imminent departure, Chef Yoshi-san once again treated us to his exquisitely refined creations done in the true style of Kyo-Ryori cuisine of Kyoto. Dōmo arigatōgozaimasu and all the best, Yoshi-san! We will miss you.

2006 Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal. Lovely luminosity, effusive in gun smoke with a bright recessed mature chalkiness already imbued with a certain complexity. Beautifully layered with dense yellow citrus and refined acidity that exude cool dry intensity with great clarity, merging well with a greater expanse of chalky elements to exert an austere gleam within a smooth creamy sheen that stretched with lingering persistence. Superb.

2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er. Pale. Cool icing with subtle traces of vanillin dominate, somewhat understated though eventually the white tones of Chassagne came through with distilled intensity. Became rather placid again, almost closing down before picking up with emergent high-toned acidity. Not ready.

2017 Yves Boyer-Martenot Meursault-Charmes 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Very pale and cool, proffering great clarity amid overtones of lemongrass. Beautifully expressive with a layered depth of nutmeg and exotic characters, displaying superb balance, proportion and precision with rounded intensity. Just a tad short. Excellent.

2013 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Russ. Pale. Rather placid, proffering delicate detail with subtle intensity, its layers of white fruit tightly coiled with stern minerality. Distinctly reluctant. Took a really long time before things snapped into focus with emergent pomelo and bitter lemon, eventually fleshing out with lovely fullness. Gently balanced. A feminine Leflaive. One is truly drinking the vintage.

2012 Domaine Hudelot Nöellat Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint, exuding light raspberries and cherries on the nose with superb purity. Medium weight. Very fresh and cleanly structured with lithe agility and good refinement.

2012 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Russ. Good colour. Wonderfully fragrant in dense rosy characters on a bed of velvety earthiness, at once sultry, alluring and seductive. Wonderfully supple as well on the palate, imbued with subtle red fruits amid a saline trace, laced with sublime acidity and intensity. This is classic burgundy at its best.

2016 DeMorgenzon Maestro Red. Popped and poured at Wah Lok, 02 Dec 2021. A cabernet blend from Stellenbosch. Opaque purple, opening with lifted notes of fresh raspberries, blueberries and currants with a slightly dry rasping quality on the palate, displaying bold structured tannins with fine intensity and attack. Settled down after some time into a more seamless whole with further notes of mocha on a base of ferrous elements that confer a certain austerity towards its finish. Plenty of quality here, but not ready. This estate blasts classical music 24/7 over outdoor loudspeakers to its vines.

2017 Domaine Philippe Livera Bourgogne Rouge. Popped and poured on 07 Dec 2021. Slightly more forward in delicious vibrant fruit that recalled raspberries, mulberries and cherries. Fleshy, rounded and well-integrated with a certain masculinity, imbued with ferrous elements that do not distract from the very fine quality. Starting to drink well.

2007 Château Valandraud Blanc. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure GWC, 10 Dec 2021. Luminous golden hue, exuding attractive notes of brioche, nectarine, apricot and cinnamon amidst a white floral bloom though the palate displayed a recessed chalkiness with a chiseled edge. A certain salinity was discernible initially before the wine fleshed out with more presence of white tones and understated acidity, laced with a hint of vanillin oak, showing good clarity as it gained in lithe acidity. Drinking well but yet to peak.

2010 Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Rioja. Popped and poured, 12 Dec 2021. Opaque crimson. Good density of wild berries, currants and smoked meat with early secondary characteristics. Medium weight. Rounded and relaxed with sweet well-managed tannins. Drinking well.

2019 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured, 15 Dec 2021. Delicate white tones abound, so seamlessly integrated that it is impossible to differentiate between chalk and fruit. Soft and beautifully rounded with understated verve and acidity, so highly elegant and regal even for such a “lowly” wine. What they say is true: buy up all the 2019s that you can.

2016 Les Hauts du Tertre, tasted over 18-19 Dec 2021. This second label of Château du Tertre opens with initial opaque earthy textures that obscure the fruit beneath. It cleared up overnight to reveal quite a stunning depth of delicious dark currants and black berries that tease with fleeting supple intensity, nicely rounded and fleshy. Demands to be taken seriously.

2008 Rockford Black Shiraz. Popped and poured at Asia Grand, 19 Dec 2021. Australia’s top sparkling shiraz proffers deep dark plummy tones from its layered depth with a signature warm ripe Barossa character. Weighty with refined balance, exuding overtones of cordite, licorice and ferrous elements as it glided to a fabulous liquered finish. At its best.

1999 Château Palmer. Decanted on-site at Otto Ristorante, 24 Dec 2021. Deep purple. Lovely lift of early tertiary characters with quite an exuberant plummy glow. Highly supple on the medium-full palate, structured with pliant tannins and understated ferrous elements, displaying excellent freshness and integration. Snapped into tighter focus after some time with emerging notes of cedar and cinnamon, developing an open gentle supple intensity that’s almost feminine. Excellent.

Champagne Roger Coulon L’Hommée 1er. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 27 Dec 2021. Fresh lifted intensity of clear citrus and lime amid burnished tones and white incense. Very well layered with crisp acidity and bright chalky tones that impart great clarity, developing a rich creamy sheen over time. Great value.

1988 Château La Conseillante, courtesy of WCY. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 27 Dec 2021. Mature purplish brown with a distinct crimson rim, proffering a sharp earthy pungency on the nose that contrasted beautifully against the lovely layers of mature dark fruit and subtle ferrous elements on the palate, structured with lean precision and crisp acidity, developing a further rounded note of soy before ending with a trace of austerity. Excellent.

2000 Château Figeac. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 27 Dec 2021. Deep purple. Effusive delicious nose of dark currants and blueberries. Medium weight. Surprisingly open with slightly dryish textures, still imbued with a trace of vanillin. Fleshed out with seamless lovely balance with dense powdery hues, supremely confident and relaxed. Doesn’t call attention to itself. Still yet to peak.

1996 Château Montrose, courtesy of Vic. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 27 Dec 2021. Deep garnet. Classic Left Bank complexity on the nose with a lovely supple tensile presence, showing very fine definition with a deeper vein of tight black fruit. Delicious, darkish and masculine, structured with understated sweet tannins. Superb.

1988 Château Figeac, courtesy of WCY. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 27 Dec 2021. Mature deep crimson, exuding a delicious complex of delicious red fruits and tangerines that carried across the fleshy palate with feminine grace and elegance. Seamlessly integrated with sweet melted tannins, beautifully balanced with highly subtle tertiary characteristics. Still amazingly fresh and youthful. Outstanding!

2017 Maison de Montille Saint Romain. Popped and poured at Eastern House of Seafood, 29 Dec 2021. Pale. Dense effusive aromas of diesel, intense clear citrus and white floral tones, well replicated on the palate with a delicate high-toned acidity. Developed good minerally detail, eventually fanning out with excellent tensile presence. Quite excellent, but worth cellaring further.

2019 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthieres. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 31 Dec 2021. This wine opens with a great high-toned intensity of clear citrus and pomelo coupled with cutting acidity before settling down with slivery white tones and emergent minerally elements, displaying a hint of longans within its tight layering. Best to lay down for a long while.

The usual suspects gathered on 16 December 2021 with an outstanding line-up to mark the end of another miserable year for wining and dining. Coupled with Chef Joseph Yeo’s culinary refinement created on V-ZUG equipment, all Zalto/Sensory stemware and Sir K’s bespoke residence, some semblance of greatness was restored, bringing hope that 2022 will turn out better. Many thanks to everyone for your generosity, especially to Sir K for your impeccable tastes and hospitality.

2007 Champagne Salon, courtesy of Sir K. Restrained presence of lime and clear citrus with a tinge of smoke and lemongrass. Equally delicate on the palate where more white tones dominate with fine clarity though the fruit remains rather backward. More effusive over time, culminating in an austere finish. Sandwiched between the opulence of 2006 and 2008, this is an honest representation of the vintage.

2014 Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune, courtesy of Sir Bob. Hint of enamel and white flowers on the nose, rather restrained, though rounded tones on the palate display very fine tensile presence and clarity. Very cleanly structured with fine precision.

2016 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres, courtesy of LF. Pale. Powerful reductive bouquet recalling a freshly struck matchstick, highly attractive. Fleshed out quite rapidly with chiseled clarity and sleek acidity, exuding a little more earthy funkiness along with emerging notes of tropical fruits, finishing with excellent length.

2016 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of LF. Luminous. Distinct notes of diesel, fairly effusive, with early complexity. Rather sleek in the typical latter-day style of Coche-Dury with a delicate crystalline quality topped with cool icing, though it teases the mid-palate with a fleeting rounded warmth that is another classic hallmark of this domaine, fanning out with superb tangy mouthfeel and high-toned acidity on its way to a fabulous finish. Outstanding.

2014 Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. Luminous tones of delicate tropical fruits with cool icing on the nose, showing a hint of early complexity even though the fruit beneath remains relatively tight with coiled intensity within an understated chalky depth. Fleshed out with fuller presence and lovely acidity, tinged with a slight earthy pungency but it took another day before hitting full stride. Best to lay down for several more years.

2008 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir V. This wine opens with a mild salinity amid gentle tones of warm gravel. Fleshed out with full chromatic tones that is the very hallmark of Chevalier-Montrachet without calling attention to itself, ever self-effacing, displaying great clarity even as it developed more nutty secondary characters. Superb.

1968 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Distinct fine powdery minty tones emanate from opaque hues, reminiscent of traditional Chinese pochai pills. The herbal medicinal characters continue to linger with robust presence on the light-medium palate, displaying fine clarity even through its sheen of sherry-like sweetness, just a tad short.

1970 Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Dull opaque crimson. Clearly well-aged though still remarkably robust and fleshy with plenty of heft. Rounded with a distinct note of eucalyptus that exuded sweet minty overtones with a deeper core of tangerines, its mature acidity still cutting through the dense mid-palate. This very wine was amongst the list of ten reds (six Californian and four Bordeaux) tasted blind at the so-called 1976 Judgement of Paris, eventually ranked ninth. We’re drinking history!

2007 Henschke Hill of Roses. Deep ruby. Rather subdued on the nose with vague minty tones though the medium-bodied palate is well-layered with an exotic complex of dark cherries, raspberries and capsicum amid distinct overtones of heated gravel, morphing into a more seamless whole with gritty detail that tapered to an austere ferrous finish of subtle length.

1996 Pingus, courtesy of Vic. Opaque deep garnet. Forward warm velvety tones with a distinct sur-maturite. Full and fleshy, imbued with abundant mature dark fruits with secondary characters of capsicum, spice and licorice that lingered with minty persistence.

1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Échézeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Evolved pinot tint. Effusive bouquet of haw and fresh cherries, absolutely delicious. Superbly supple, displaying a deep core of tangerines amid overtones of smoked meat laced with lively acidity. Utterly seamless, settling down fine linearity, length and persistence. Excellent.

1989 Château Haut-Brion, courtesy of Sir K. Deep crimson. Stunning bouquet of complex dark fruits and capsicum, replicated in equal measure on the palate with beautifully rounded supple contours, seamlessly layered with mature dark tones and currants that display superb depth and agility, still imbued with fresh intensity. Compared with its legendary sister the 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion which is a little more exuberant, the 1989 Haut-Brion exudes supreme confidence, utter refinement and elegance without calling attention to itself, finishing with subtle complexity. A complete wine in every sense, caught at its very peak. What a privilege!

Wine Clique of Singapore generously organised a virtual tasting of the wines of Glenelly on 02 December 2021 with the estate’s brand ambassador Ms Lia Johns Poveda. Those who are familiar would know that this South African estate came about when May-Éliane de Lencquesaing, owner of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, purchased a plot of land in 2003 on the lower slopes of Simonsberg and named it after a fruit farm that had been there back in 1911. The team from Pichon Lalande began work the following year, planting some 60 hectares of vines at a density of 4,666 vines per hectare in north-south orientation which produced the inaugural vintage in 2008. About 24 ha is devoted to cabernet sauvignon while the remainder is split amongst the other Bordeaux grape varietals. Following the tradition of Pichon Lalande, a substantial quantity of petit verdot is planted as well and included within the blend. The Mediterranean climate in that part of Stellenbosch suits the Bordeaux blend perfectly while the steep slopes promote drainage. The estate has utilised organic methods since 2018. The team prefers to pick early in order to control alcohol levels and optimise acidity. Vinification takes place in 100% French oak. Its grand vin is the Lady May (the Estate Reserve Red is not truly a second wine, being blended with syrah). Already setting a high bar with its inaugural 2008, the estate has gone from strength to strength on the evidence of this tasting, producing wines that are consistently elegant, seamlessly layered with subtle detail and understated power. Just like Pichon Lalande, the Glenelly Lady May is made for true connoisseurs, not label drinkers.

2020 Glenelly Estate Reserve Chardonnay. Made from whole bunches of Dijon clones, aged 9 months in 500L French barrels. Luminous, exuding an attractive creamy buttery nose against a chalky backdrop with further notes of brioche, vanillin and white fruits on the medium-bodied palate, exerting superb delicate mouthfeel with lovely tension. Very well-balanced with fine depth and detail of stony minerals, supported by highly-refined acidity, finishing with fine linearity and gentle persistence. Very correct in every way.

2015 Glenelly Estate Reserve Red. Very deep garnet. Bordeaux blend with 15% syrah, the latter clearly evident by the distinct notes of chilli skins and capsicum on the nose as well as spicy tones on the rounded medium-weight palate imbued with abundant wild berries, dark plums and black pepper. Subtly structured with good vigour and understated intensity, though a little nondescript towards the finish.

2015 Glenelly Lady May. A blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 11% merlot, and 7% petit verdot. Deep garnet. Capsicum and dark currants dominate amid traces of haw, quickly developing ripe plummy tones on the medium-bodied fleshy palate. Seamlessly integrated with understated acidity, imbued with a deeper vein of subtle black fruits that oozed with a trace of sweetness. Finished well. Highly harmonious. Very successful.

2012 Glenelly Lady May. A blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 1% cabernet franc and 10% petit verdot. Very deep crimson, proffering a lovely bouquet of plummy red fruit that hinted at a lush palate though the palate is distinctly earthy and darkish in tone, already evolving with early secondary characteristics. Almost velvety though it avoids any sort of burliness through its dry structured intensity that convey excellent definition and precision with slick acidity, just a little austere towards its finish. Its relative robustness suggests that it may be a little out of place in the line-up but it has real character.

2010 Glenelly Lady May. A blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, and 5% petit verdot. From a dry vintage. Dark brownish red, displaying secondary characteristics of leather, capsicum and ember on the nose. Fleshy and softly rounded, slightly backward on the palate where dark plums dominate with fine attack and intensity amid gamey characters, finishing on a note of austere minerals.

2008 Glenelly Lady May. My first encounter of this inaugural vintage was ten years ago (https://winebyric.com/2011/02/19/notes-in-brief-february-2011-2008-lady-may/) and how wonderful it is to be re-acquainted with it again. Dark brownish-red, this blend of 91% cabernet sauvignon and 9% petit verdot proffers a classic cabernet glow with fine complexity on the nose. Medium-full with a relaxed fleshy open feel, seamlessly integrated, showing very good length and balance with fine detail and sleek elegance, proving beyond doubt the longevity of Lady May in bottle. At its peak and will hold.

One look and you know this line-up at Imperial Treasure Great World on 30 November 2021 is all about the so-called second wines of prime estates, though there is certainly nothing second-rate about such wines as they often hail from the same vineyard or special parcels, receiving the same viticultural attention and expertise. In fact, they represent great value except, perhaps, for Carruades which costs much more than a Super Second grand vin. 

2016 La Forge de Tart Morey-Saint-Denis 1er. Translucent purple. Forward nose of fresh ripe berries. Medium weight. Good fullness and purity of fruit, delicious with a youthful vibrancy on a base of subtle ferrous elements. Became considerably lighter after some time, distinctly feminine, before fleshing out with a richer body, exuding a rosy perfumed presence. Doesn’t quite possess the depth and finish of the Grand Cru but its proportion and balance is quite impeccable. Made from the re-planting of three subplots of Clos de Tart monopole in 2011, 2005 and 1999 (https://winebyric.com/2017/11/24/understanding-domaine-du-clos-de-tart/) where the vines have not yet reached optimal maturity and, hence, the grapes are declassified.

2009 Chapelle d’Ausone, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Deep purple. Enticing bouquet of haw, dark roses and early cedary characters with sweet overtones. Lovely warm velvety fullness in the mouth, imparting a structured supple intensity. Very well proportioned, just a tad short. On par with classified growths. Excellent.

2001 Flor de Pingus, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Utterly funky with a deep earthy pungency on the nose in stark contrast the juicy succulence of ripe aged plums and tertiary characters on the fleshy medium weight palate, laid on sweet velvety tannins. Excellent.

2003 Carruades de Lafite, courtesy of Vic. Mature crimson. Superb lift of haw, dark plums, complex red fruits and peaches amid an attractive earthiness. Medium weight. Still fresh and fleshy, imbued with delightful lithe agility and warmth on an earthy base, slightly peaty. Impeccably balanced and proportioned. Carries the breed and class of Lafite Rothschild. Excellent.

2018 Egon Müller Le Gallais Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett, courtesy of LF. Pale. Intoxicating profusion of pungent diesel fumes on the nose, matched by a deep palate of tangy tropical fruits that exude very fine detail with sublime acidity and lush intensity that sweep to a slightly austere finish of stony minerals, its sweetness never in the way. Superb.

1998 Parker Estate Coonawarra Terra Rossa First Growth. Decanted on-site at Origin Grill, Shangri-la Singapore, on 03 Nov 2021. Deep purple with a bare hint of crimson at the rim. Opens with a distinct note of capsicum and green chilli skins amid traces of salinity, leading to a medium-full palate rich in cedary characters and leather. Fleshed out with juicy succulence, displaying a glorious depth of tertiary fruit and currants that shone with amazing freshness, exuding a highly refined plummy tone as it stretched out with excellent linearity to a spicy lengthy finish, barely hinting at its twenty-three years. Superb.

2018 Château du Couvent, courtesy of Mr S Kannan at his residence on Deepavali, 04 Nov 2021. Good colour. This Pomerol exudes a very fine presence of ripe dark plums, cherries and black berries with a gentle trace of salinity. Somewhat attenuated at the top, resulting in a leaner profile but it is very well balanced and proportioned, structured with detailed supple tannins and sleek acidity. Drinking well.

2017 Meerlust Rubicon, tasted over two days 7-8 Nov 2021. Deep purple. Attractive bouquet of delicious black berries and dark currants, placed slightly forward on a medium-full palate imbued with ample depth and concentration. Remarkably balanced with understated tannin structure, revealing some gritty inner detail with a hint of brilliant graphite. Highly consistent with a previous tasting note couple of months back. Excellent.

1994 Château Haut-Brion, courtesy of SC at Shoukouwa, 09 Nov 2021. Decanted for an hour prior. This particular vintage of Haut-Brion seems ageless, appearing deep crimson with a sharp lift of distilled plummy red fruit in its deep alluring bouquet. Highly supple with a high-toned sublime acidity, seamlessly integrated and structured with understated earthy tannins tinged with charcoal dust that impart excellent linearity and mouthfeel as it lingered to a glowing finish. At its peak, and far from drying out. Superb.

2017 Domaine Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc, courtesy of Sir K at Park 90, Singapore, on 11 Nov 2021. I had the opportunity to taste this very wine from barrel at the domaine in October 2018 (https://winebyric.com/2018/10/25/ric-arrives-at-domaine-coche-dury/) and I’m pleased to report that it has delivered on its promise in bottle. Popped and poured, its pallor belies an amazingly complex bouquet of jackfruit, nutmeg, mango peel and floral characters that is deep and alluring, fanning out with breathtaking detail and supple intensity with a distinct salinity on a full palate layered with sublime acidity that stretched to a finish of attractive austerity from its minerally elements. Truly, what is bourgogne for Coche-Dury is grand cru for many others.

2012 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers 1er, courtesy of Sir K at Park 90, Singapore, on 11 Nov 2021. Lovely pinot tint, exuding quite a glorious bouquet of red cherries and haw with a deep tarry quality while the medium-full palate excelled in its definition, clean precision and delicious presence, structured with an enticing sweet glowing intensity. Became more Gevrey-like in character over time rather than Chambolle, a trait noted by astute observers of domaines that make wine primarily from a different appellation. Superb.

2019 Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills M3 Chardonnay. Tasted 16-17 Nov 2021. Generous in notes of green apples, pears, fig and peaches. The palate is more plump and rounded than a previous bottle tasted last month though that clear definition and lithe agility still remains, yielding fine minerally detail. Very fine.

Champagne Roger Coulon L’Hommée 1er. Popped and poured at Asia Grand on 21 Nov 2021. Fairly deep bouquet of smouldering ember and chalky glow, leading to a deeper vein of honeyed toast, walnuts and almonds on the palate with surprising complexity that grew with crisp intensity over time. Another bottle tasted on 27 Nov 2021 at Ka Soh opened with a dry acerbic intensity before evolving with more rounded tones of fresh lime, pomelo and grapefruit. Excellent.

2010 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Marquis de Laguiche, courtesy of Barrie at his residence, 22 Nov 2021. Dull golden. This wine opens with a stony laid-back chalkiness amid traces of saline minerals, medium weight with a masculine though elegant profile of white tones. Developed a structured intensity with striking acidity in the glass, displaying tremendous verve before settling down with more austere tones as the Chassagne signature took hold.

2007 Claude Dugat La Gibryotte Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie at his residence, 22 Nov 2021. Decanted and poured. Dull opaque pinot tint. Powerful bouquet of dark fruits and raspberries that exude a minty flourish. Well extracted but balanced, showing very fine fleshy definition and subtle acidity, gelling together with velvety intensity after some time.

1997 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon, courtesy of Barrie at his residence, 22 Nov 2021. Decanted and poured. Deep garnet. Medium weight with a mature tone of ripe wild berries and dark currants, structured with sweet rounded tannins that oozed with overtones of eucalyptus, developing supple intensity over time.

2019 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured at Liang Kee restaurant, 24 Nov 2021. Chalky white tones of white fruits and cool icing, somewhat reluctant at first. Equally backward with a rather minerally mid-palate though there is subtle presence and verve, indicative of plenty of stuffing beneath. Opens up slowly with lighter notes of tangerines, though the finish is more pronounced in capsicum and whiffs of spicy white pepper. Not ready.

2018 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières, tasted at home on 25-26 Nov 2021. High-toned fresh citrus and white fruits dominate with excellent presence, infused with subtle ferrous minerally elements and sleek acidity, showing good clarity with further notes of green fruits and mint. A tad fuller on the mid-palate compared with the 2019 which is more delicate with subtle refinement.

1998 Château Barde-Haut, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 30 Nov 2021. Deep garnet. Minty powerful cedary nose. Open with fleshy vigour and understated intensity. Somewhat short, lacking true depth but drinking well.

Champagne Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru. Popped and poured at Imperial Treasure Great World, 30 Nov 2021. Dull golden. Fairly effusive in gun smoke and flinty notes, lit by a bright chalky glow that revealed an excellent rounded presence of white fruits and richly-detailed citrus that blazed with dry intensity before tapering to a complex lingering finish of austere elements laced with a dash of sweetness. Excellent.

Champagne Ruinart Brut NV, a bottle that had been stored for twenty years but it appears not to have aged a single day, exuding attractive overtones of burnt toast and yeast from its pale golden hue that lead to a broad expanse of lively citrus with a deep burnished tone on the palate, exerting an exciting youthful intensity of dense white fruits. Excellent.

1970 Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or Brut. Deep dull golden hue, proffering a deep earthy pungent funkiness that is almost musky in character. Rather placid and heavy at first before bursting into life with a lighter touch. Still imbued with plenty of brio as it took on an attractive gentle austerity with emerging notes of bitter lemon and pomelo.

1995 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault. Luminous golden lustre. This wine opens with a lovely restrained elegance, exuding rounded tones of icing and white floral bloom that blend seamlessly with an understated chalkiness beneath. Deceptively coiled and backward at first, traipsing across the palate with very subtle verve before unfurling its full potential with rich chromatic tones, striking a complex balance with that indescribable gleam that comes with age and impeccable breed. May not even have peaked. Outstanding.

2003 Les Forts de Latour, courtesy of Sir Vic at the Tanglin Club, Singapore, on 15 Nov 2021. Tasted blind. Deep purple with a bare trace of crimson. Very lovely effusive nose of lifted red plums and perfumed fragrance, distinctly feminine. Fairly full with a delicious succulence, displaying excellent presence of dark fruit and currants that exude velvety warmth and fine intensity. Very well-balanced and seamlessly integrated with further notes of cedar amid sweet pliant tannins, thinning just a little towards its short finish. Probably at its best.

2002 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Deep purple. Shut initially on the nose even after ninety minutes of aeration, the fruit equally reluctant on the medium-weight palate, seemingly nondescript. Rather minerally at first, taking a very long time to slowly firm up with a more solid core of dark plums and berries, structured with understated silky tannins but its restraint is still evident. Reflects the weak vintage quality. My previous experience with this wine nine years ago was a lot better. Time to drink up.

1998 Tertre Roteboeuf. Deep garnet. Was there just that faintest trace of cork taint on the nose that hindered its full expression? Past that, the palate is weighty and open with that characteristic savoury quality of Tertre Roteboeuf, structured with sleek acidity and intensity that convey youthful vigour with gritty ferrous detail.

The vintage of 1996 for Left Bank Bordeaux is what 1998 was for the Right Bank. Moderate temperatures during the 1996 growing season bode well for the region until heavy rains struck in August, drenching most of the Right Bank and Margaux but leaving much of the Left Bank unscathed, which benefitted much from a subsequent warm dry September that helped to ripen the grapes optimally. On the other hand, a severe hail storm in August 1998 in the Right Bank forced vignerons to green harvest extensively, which reaped handsome rewards from the following September sun that helped to concentrate the grapes. More importantly, estates in Pomerol and Saint-Émilion had completed harvesting before torrential rains in the last week of September washed out much of the Médoc. A nice theme, therefore, would be to drink a 1996 Left alongside a 1998 Right, which was what we did at the Tanglin Club, Singapore, on 01 November 2021. Both bottles were popped and poured.

1998 Château L’Eglise-Clinet, courtesy of Vic. Deep purple. Full, stunning bouquet of black currants, ripe dark berries and bright cherries amid overtones of leather and cedar. Medium-full. Clearly more forward in fruit balance but such is its glorious abundance. Silky smooth, rounded and vibrant, imbued with lively acidity within a lovely svelte tannin structure, evolving towards even greater refinement with further notes of plums and complex red fruits. Still seemingly youthful, probably just entering its peak drinking period. Great stuff.

1996 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Deep purple, opening with a high tone of mature plums with a bit of pointed earthiness on the nose in stark contrast to its relaxed backward demeanour on the palate, proffering good clarity. It fleshed out quite rapidly with greater weight and silky intensity, developing lovely tone with overtones of seasoned oak and tobacco. At its drinking peak and will hold. Excellent.

Rockford Black Shiraz (2008 disgorgement). Popped and poured at Eastern House of Seafood, 02 Oct 2021. Deep crimson. Classic glow of warm Barossa shiraz at just the right level of ripeness, appropriately plummy with a dash of licorice that developed darker shades over time as the wine took on greater weight. Open with subtle tannins and acidity within a sheen of soft gentle bubbles, superbly balanced, imbued with a certain deft agility underscored by that fabulous liqueured depth. Still very fresh. May not have peaked but drinking beautifully. Excellent.

2017 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages. Popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 07 Oct 2021. Still consistently good, opening with a superb expanse of white fruits and high-toned citrus, displaying refined acidity with excellent minerally depth and clarity. Very well-integrated and balanced.

2014 Château de Chamirey Mercurey La Mission 1er. Popped and popped over dimsum at Wah Lok, 10 Oct 2021. This monopole opens with dense chromatic white tones that glowed with lovely warmth, exuding great refinement in its minerally depth with sleek tensile acidity. Became more relaxed after an hour, revealing subtle detailing and texture with characters of cool icing, fleshing out with controlled power amid an understated salinity. Almost Chassagne-like, on the brink of secondary development. Superb.

2011 Domaine Roblot-Monnet Volnay Santenots 1er, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 14 Oct 2021. Good colour. Very fine lifted clarity of ripe raspberries. Open with easy charm, imbued with subtle verve and acidity that exert a lithe tensile agility. Very well-balanced. Drinking well.

2018 Mt Difficulty Bannockburn Pinot Noir, courtesy of Kieron at his residence, 14 Oct 2021. Classic pinot tint. Distinctive nose of tobacco, gunmetal and volcanic ash matched by an ample palate of cool supple raspberries. Medium-bodied, displaying great integration with sleek acidity. Finished well. Highly burgundian.

2010 Château Malescot Saint-Exupery. Popped and poured at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 18 Oct 2021. Deep dark garnet. Delicious depth of dark currants and black cherries. Medium weight. Rounded with very good sophistication and tightly-knitted detailed tannins, dotted with brilliant graphite and white incense. Great balance and integration, displaying early secondary characters with lovely exuberance. Excellent value.

2016 S de Suduiraut. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 21 Oct 2021. Light pale greenish hue. Fresh white tones with icing amid a gentle hint of nectarine. Well layered with exotic floral notes, increasingly creamier over time as it developed a lovely complex of green fruits and understated minerals on a chalky base, displaying excellent clarity in spite of its biting intensity. Glowing finish. Highly compelling.

2003 Château Pontet-Canet. Decanted on-site at Imperial Treasure Great World, 23 Oct 2021. Deep garnet. Highly attractive bouquet of complex red fruits, dark plums, cherries and raspberries. Exerts lovely velvety fullness and intensity, its silky sleek acidity and lithe sexy tannins imparting superb tensile mouthfeel with an understated ferric earthiness. Developed further notes of coffee and mocha after some time, finishing with a glowing distilled Left Bank character though without the Pauillac dryness. At its peak and will hold.

2005 Winemakers’ Collection Cuvée No.1 (Michel Rolland). Popped and poured at home, 24-25 Oct 2021. The cork again broke but the wine was very fine, probably the best example of the many I’ve had, displaying very good concentration of currants and ripe raspberries laced with understated graphite minerals. Medium weight. Very well-balanced, fleshy and fresh. Another bottle (my final one) was tasted on 26 Oct 2021 with consistent notes.

2019 Domaine du Roc des Boutires Pouilly-Fuissé Aux Bouthières. Popped and poured at Ka Soh, 30 Oct 2021. Pale straw-colored. Effusive bouquet of pears and apricots. The palate is marked by superb ripeness with striking intensity and acidity underscored by an understated earthy salinity. Developed subtle detail with an attractive floral core that is distinctly feminine, glowing with cool white tones at the finish. Very beautifully proportioned with excellent refinement. Superb. Aux Bouthières has been assigned premier cru status with effect from the 2020 vintage. Now already more expensive than it usually is, expect prices to go up further.