Ric's Wine Journal

2017 Meerlust Rubicon. Popped and poured after a brief aeration at home, 05 Oct 2022. Purplish hues, exuding an attractive fragrance of raspberries, redcurrants and ripe strawberries that carried well onto a medium-bodied palate that is surprisingly soft and inviting with a refined elegant presence, very open and highly supple, structured with muted tannins. Truly a wine where the sum is greater than its parts. This can take its place on any table.

Bouchard Aine et Fils Chardonnay-Terret NV, tasted at Changi T3 Krisflyer Gold Lounge, 06 Oct 2022. Pale luminosity with a fairly sharp minerally lift amid recessed notes of nutmeg and wildflowers on the medium-bodied palate, finishing with a slight peppery glow. Serviceable.

2017 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Grêves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus, poured at the wedding of Jane & Bobie at The Langham, Jakarta, 07 Oct 2022. Dark pinot tint, promising restrained dark rosy hues that carried well onto the medium-full palate with a firm minerally tensile presence, structured with refined even tannins. Best to lay down further.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet, aired for an hour ahead of tasting at The Carlton Hotel, Singapore, on 13 Oct 2022. Still quite deep in colour, exuding a fairly sharp lift of plums and sandalwood. Medium-bodied and softly contoured, imbued with a prominence of green capsicum and herbs on a slightly dryish floor, showing very good even presence with fine linearity.

2018 Pikes Riesling at Changi Airport T2 Silverkris Lounge, 15 Oct 2022. Pale. Intoxicating bouquet of petroleum fumes and kerosene. Translucent minerally palate, medium-full, proffering fabulous shiny detail with a cleanly defined lift. Good glowing finish. An astute choice.

2020 Stonier Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay at Changi Airport T2 Silverkris Lounge, 15 Oct 2022. Pale. Fresh morning dew on the nose. Gentle creamy palate infused with delicate clear minerality, showing a tad of salinity that finished with glowing lingering persistence.

Champagne Piper Heidsieck Essentiel Brut NV at Changi Airport T2 Silverkris Lounge, 15 Oct 2022. Dry blazing intensity of clear citrus, lime and pomelo. One dimensional but serviceable.

2003 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge. Popped and poured at Otto Ristorante, 18 Oct 2022. Deep garnet. Ripe dark currants and blackberries on the nose and medium-full palate, showing excellent tensile presence with refined acidity and a dash of wild berries and vegetal elements. Developed further subtle detail of sandalwood with a hint of charred savouriness as its tannins came alive with exciting verve. Delicious.

1998 Château Musar, courtesy of LF at Canto Jumbo, 20 Oct 2022. Brownish red. Distinct nose of plums and mandarins. Still fresh and supple, showing good clean precision and ripeness with judicious use of oak.

2016 Domaine Luzien Muzard Santenay Maladière 1er Rouge at Canto Jumbo, 20 Oct 2022. Classic pinot tint. Open and softly contoured, imbued with supple plummy notes and raspberries.

2013 Silver Oak Napa Valley, courtesy of LF at Canto Jumbo, 20 Oct 2022. Dark. Rich ripe and savoury, underpinned by cedar and cinnamon amid overtones of vanillin oak. Medium-bodied, yielding supple inner detail with supple freshness. Delicious.

2019 Marc Colin Saint-Aubin Le Charmois 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 22 Oct 2022. Light greenish. Glowing bouquet of lime, citrus and green fruits. Medium-full, fairly rounded with keen acidity and refined balance. Tightly structured with excellent delineation, finishing well with dryish white tones.

2017 Weingut Markus Molitor Brauneberger Spätburgunder Klostergarten***, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 22 Oct 2022. Darkish tint of dark plums and dark roses. Quite full on the palate with a slightly jarring acidity at first, settling down eventually with a little more detail though that nervous tension never really went away, clearing the way for a long finish of charred elements, earth and firewood.

2018 Domaine Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille 1er. Popped and poured at Eastern House of Seafood, 23 Oct 2022. Unashamedly full and tight on this occasion, displaying a firm mid-palate imbued with white fruits and dense minerally elements that conferred a certain austerity.

2010 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er. Aired for two hours ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 24 Oct 2022. Delicious nose of raspberries, mulberries and dark currants tinged with a note of mandarins leading to a fullish tensile presence from the ample ripe fruit, showing excellent integration of tannins and acidity with understated earthy minerals. Good balance. Still youthful.

2016 Château Lanbersac, tasted at Kiyose, 25 Oct 2022. Full presence of warm ripe fruit and dark currants that exert supple intensity. Unashamedly modern.

2016 Château Larmande, tasted at Kiyose, 25 Oct 2022. There is a certain restraint on the nose even though the fruit is wonderfully ripe throughout, promising dark currants with a note of cedar. Quite unexpectedly lush, structured with understated tannins that convey a velvety warmth and rounded fullness, developing further notes of chocolate and mocha. Very well balanced and elegant throughout its length. Absolutely delicious. Punches way above its weight.

2015 Château Cap de Mourlin, tasted at Kiyose, 25 Oct 2022. Very dark crimson with a note of heated gravel on the nose. Medium-bodied. Somewhat restrained in spite of its abundant dark fruits, dominated more by a bright minerally mid-palate. Not quite ready.

2008 Château Guadet, tasted at Kiyose, 25 Oct 2022. Dark crimson. Softly contoured, showing great integration with understated structure. Fresh, warm and ripe, seemingly evolving at a glacial pace.

2016 Domaine Chavy-Chouet Meursault Les Charmes 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Jade Palace, 25 Oct 2022. Dull golden. Sharp lift of cool clear fruit. Medium-full with a lithe teasing quality, yielding fine definition. Finished with white floral tones and understated intensity.

2018 Domaine Bellargus Treilles, courtesy of Russ at Jade Palace, 25 Oct 2022. Its relative pallor belies an elusive boldness that recalls eucalyptus and traces of tropical fruits amid a certain glazed chalkiness. Decidedly more relaxed after some time in the glass, displaying fine clarity and elegance.

2009 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of Russ at Jade Palace, 25 Oct 2022. Red fruits dominate with overtones of cool icing. Softly contoured with fine definition though there is a certain austerity on the mid-palate, finishing with moderate length.

2011 Chapelle d’Ausone, courtesy of Kieron at Jade Palace, 25 Oct 2022. Dark fruits tinged with capsicum on the nose, exuding a mild sweet fragrance. Medium-bodied, displaying a beautifully supple presence, rather slick and understated with early secondary characters. Just a tad short. Reflects the vintage.

2000 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, aired in advance before dinner at Asia Grand, 26 Oct 2022. Somewhat reluctant and angular at first, only faintly delicious. Fleshed out beautifully in unhurried manner with a full presence of dark roses, red plums and preserved cherries tinged with mocha and capsicum. Sleek with great tensile presence, developing subtle detail and layering.

2016 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas Combes. Popped and poured at Sin Chao Gardens, 28 Oct 2022. Accentuated lift of raspberries, wild berries and currants. Medium-full, displaying very good depth and clean definition with a minty glow. Good refinement. Moderate finish.

2004 Château L’Eglise-Clinet, courtesy of Jimmy. Popped and poured at Sin Chao Gardens, 28 Oct 2022. Deeply coloured, exuding a lovely bouquet of cedar and mahogany tinged with eucalyptus. Supple and fleshy with a quiet intensity amid herbaceous overtones, still imbued with excellent freshness, traversing the palate with fine linearity to a glowing finish.

2017 Château de Meursault Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus 1er, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Popped and poured at Sin Chao Gardens, 28 Oct 2022. Slightly heavier tint, exuding a fresh lift of cool icing and vanillin, fairly opulent with creamy detail. Excellent stuff, but expensive now.

2009 Château Calon Ségur, courtesy of Jimmy. Popped and poured at Sin Chao Gardens, 28 Oct 2022. Very deep garnet, proffering a rich dark delicious nose with a distinct note of soy, delivering an abundance of wonderfully ripe dark fruits and currants with early cedary characters. Highly supple, seamlessly integrated with open intensity, developing youthful biting tannins over time.

2018 The Standish Shiraz, courtesy of Dr Lee KH. Popped and poured at Sin Chao Gardens, 28 Oct 2022. Very deep garnet. This Barossa red is richly layered and full, yet beautifully rounded with silky smooth tannins, offering gorgeous dark fruits tinged with mocha and licorice and a bit of toast, finishing on a spicy note.

2019 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er, by the carafe at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 29 Oct 2022. Good color. Lovely fragrance of fresh red fruits, dark cherries and plums. Rounded with sweet subdued tannins, beautifully balanced and integrated, exerting lovely gentle tension. Almost lush. Delicious.

2019 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 29 Oct 2022. Fairly deep yellowish greenish hue, proffering quite a generous lift of lemon citrus and green fruits. Medium-full. Beautifully structured and amply layered with a subtle chalky glow.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Popped and poured at home, 30 Oct 2022. Pale. Consistent nose of nutmeg, lemongrass and olives. Full terse presence, delivering fine detail and controlled intensity but it is too tightly wound for me.

2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Bourgogne Blanc. Popped and poured at Crab At Bay, 01 Sep 2022. Lime, clear citrus and bitter lemon dominate on the nose and medium-full palate with a high-toned intensity, supported by base minerals and crisp acidity that matched the fruit every step of the way. Very lively.

2016 Laurent Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée de l’Aulne. Aired in bottle for three hours ahead of brunch at Jade Palace, 03 Sep 2022. Classic pinot tint, exuding rosy hues and dark cherries on the nose. The palate is beautifully contoured and rounded, imbued with very good presence of soft ripe fruit that reveal subtle inner detail. Highly integral and seamless, showing excellent refinement and charm, finishing well. The new-age label draws polarising opinions, but I like it. More importantly, the wine is really good.

2015 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er. Aired for more than two hours ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 05 Sep 2022. Classic bouquet of rose petals, strawberries and haw that exude a lovely feminine fragrance. Fairly open with a soft supple intensity, subtly structured with fine presence and decent depth. Settled down with cool refined elegance and moderate length, developing a blaze of delicious red fruits at its finish. Drinking well but best to lay down for several more years.

2019 Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vieilles Vignes, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 07 Sep 2022. Deeply coloured with a distinct oxidative note of malt and rye on the nose that suggests a much older wine. Medium-full, imbued with a tight intensity of dense yellow citrus and dry recessed chalky detail, retaining that oxidative tone throughout its moderate length. Packs good power and precision. Certainly not flabby.

2018 Kuheiji Fixin, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 07 Sep 2022. From a producer of sake. Clean dark tones. Rather reticent, before developing raspberries, mulberries, tangerines and haw later. Medium-bodied, layered with very fine juicy presence, showing good verve and balance amid overtones of mahogany. Drinking well, just a little distant.

2018 Jordan Chardonnay. Aired for two hours ahead of dinner at Yang Ming Seafood, 08 Sep 2022. Good lift of stony minerals and clear citrus, imbued with excellent oily density. Well-structured and integrated, displaying refined intensity amid distant tones of icing and vanillin. Finished with good length.

2017 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, courtesy of Vic at Yang Ming Seafood, 08 Sep 2022 Pale. Lifted bouquet of morning dew and clear citrus, lighting up the palate with stony detail and layering with dense white fruits bringing up the rear laced with a dash of sweetness, fleshing out eventually with an open glow of peppery white tones. Highly burgundian.

2017 Littorai Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, courtesy of LF at Yang Ming Seafood, 08 Sep 2022. Dark cherries and plums dominate with cool ripeness and refined presence. Very well balanced and proportioned, seamlessly integrated with bright rosy hues. Beautifully nuanced.

2014 DuMol Lia Viognier, courtesy of LF at Yang Ming Seafood, 08 Sep 2022. Rather pale and reticent at first, its fruit slightly recessed, underpinned by sweet chalky undertones. Took some time to flesh out with dense white tones, displaying superb length and linearity.

2016 E Guigal Condrieu La Doriane, courtesy of CHS at Yang Ming Seafood, 08 Sep 2022. Cool placid tones. Also made from viognier but distinctly different, more floral and highly transparent. Very subtly nuanced, taking its time to unfurl its Rhône character of backward white tones and recessed chalkiness.

2016 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Saint-Veran Champ Rond over lunch at Otto Ristorante, 09 Sep 2022. Clear luminosity. Rather reticent on the nose though chalky tones and yellow citrus dominate with excellent presence and density on the medium-full palate, displaying terse acidity and intensity before turning a little more backward, giving way to a recessed chalkiness with more emphasis on bright minerality.

2008 Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Blanc, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Shinzo, 12 Sep 2022. Poured from 6L Imperial. Pale yellow-green hue, proffering a distant nose of fig, chalk, yellow citrus, pineapples and mangoes with a very refined oily density on the medium-bodied palate, imbued with subtle minerality. Developed glowing white tones before taking a more backward stance with secondary characters, the fruit and chalkiness distinctly more recessed as it finished with moderate intensity.

1986 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Simon Cheong at Shinzo, 12 Sep 2022. Poured from magnum. Deep crimson core, exuding a jazzy funkiness with characters of varnish, rose petals and truffles that morphed into a superb glow of mature claret. Fleshy and still wonderfully fresh, lighting the palate with structured precision and sharp definition before settling down with a distinct feminine grace, just a tad short at its finish. Slightly past its prime, though still highly pleasurable.

2006 Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé, courtesy of CJ at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Deeply coloured, proffering excellent presence of grapefruit and mature tangerines with distinct orangey hues that shone with glowing depth amid a most appropriate dry intensity.

2014 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of CJ at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Pale. Somewhat reticent on the nose, though excelling on the palate with a lovely rounded oily density imbued with yellow citrus and bright minerals amid powdery white tones that cut through with fine purity, exuding the classic Chassagne signature as it yielded further supple detail, finishing with lovely persistence. Superb.

2019 Philippe Chéron Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée 1er at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Attractive bouquet of dark roses, cherries and bramble with a gentle minty afterglow. Similarly darkish on the palate though the superb fruit come through with lovely purity and warm ripe opulence, seamlessly structured with silky smooth tannins that yield excellent chewy detail. Highly integral. Very lovely. Not many have heard of Philippe Chéron but it won’t be long before this hits the roof.

2015 Roagna Gallina Barbaresco, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Fragrant dark roses and varnish on the nose, slightly smoky. Medium-full. Surprisingly open, layered with a subtle depth of predominant red fruits that exert suave supple intensity with lovely refinement. Distinctly feminine. Almost Burgundian. Excellent.

2004 Opus One, courtesy of MH at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Deep garnet red with a suggestion of warm velvety ripeness. Medium-full. Highly integral and open, imbued with characters of mocha, chocolate and traces of licorice within its seamless layers, structured with subtle power and mature tannins that taper to a strong minty afterglow. Excellent.

2008 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Lusants 1er Blanc, courtesy of Sanjay at Morsels, 13 Sep 2022. Luminous glow of recessed chalkiness and mature secondary characters laced with superb sublime acidity, displaying sharp definition within a medium-bodied proposition.

2013 Champagne Pol Roger Brut at the wedding of Russell & Dolly, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, 17 Sep 2022. Lovely deep burnished tone of buttered toast, citrus and wildflowers, displaying fine presence and intensity without being too dry. Drinking well.

2017 Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux Meursault at the wedding of Russell & Dolly, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, 17 Sep 2022. Its relative pallor belies a nose of gentle floral fragrance. Still tight with reductive white tones that offer fine precision and structure, fleshing out with cool detail. Well-proportioned and balanced.

2017 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er at the wedding of Russell & Dolly, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, 17 Sep 2022. Darkish pinot tint, delivering raspberries and dark berries with a dash of briar on the medium-full palate laced with sleek acidity, displaying good energy though slightly lean.

2015 Roc de Cambes at the wedding of Russell & Dolly, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, 17 Sep 2022. Lovely ripe fullness of sun-dried dark fruits, currants and cedar that shone with glowing warmth and savoury succulence, yet to fully shed its overtones of vanillin oak but its class and pedigree is clear. Drinks like a classified growth.

2011 Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru at the wedding of Russell & Dolly, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, 17 Sep 2022. Poured from magnum. Very attractive on the nose, exuding fresh rosy hues with early cedary characters. Medium-full. Highly supple and lively. Very well balanced with subtle acidity and understated intensity, developing a little sultry exuberance as it tapered with fine linearity to a glowing finish of cherries and distant red fruits.

2017 Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Dents de Chien 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Fine luminosity. Lovely floral fragrance of fig and green fruits. Medium-full and fairly rounded showing a very refined sleek density laced with traces of icing and petroleum fumes. Settled down with cool tones and minerally notes amid a dash of oiliness. Drinking well.

2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Delicious nose of ripe dark berries and currants amidst that inimitable glow of a mature claret. The medium-bodied palate is layered with a chamfered feel of soft red fruits that confer some degree of rusticity. Took some time to flesh out with fine body and decent length. This is the final vintage of this extinct label, its vines having been absorbed into the fold of Château La Mission Haut-Brion.

2000 Château Trotanoy, courtesy of Melvin at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Still darkly coloured with green capsicum, wild mushrooms and dried wood on the nose. The palate is beautifully soft and supple with a juicy succulence, very seamlessly integrated, just a little bright within its mid-body, yielding fine transparency though it is a little short. At its best.

1982 Château Nenin, courtesy of Sir Bob at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Slightly opaque, proffering capsicum and ripe wild berries with a delicious fragrance in soft focus though the rounded palate is somewhat restrained, a tad savoury with a suggestion of bacon bits. Beautifully mature. Nenin is excellent value.

1985 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of Kieron at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Mature crimson. Very beautiful on the nose, a controlled lift of plums, ember and incense amidst a glorious scent of warm ripe fruit that transcends the softly contoured palate with a splash of savoury and ferrous elements. Still quite full and fresh, seamlessly layered and beautifully proportioned with everything in place. Highly elegant, wearing its considerable power within the proverbial velvet glove. The 1985 Mouton simply gets better and better with each tasting in spite of its thirty-seven years. Outstanding.

1995 Château Langoa Barton, courtesy of Vic at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Still displaying a deep garnet red, this wine is rather muted, proffering only glimpses of fresh dark fruits and black berries though the palate is highly supple and open, still retaining excellent freshness and power though it veered towards some leanness at the finish. May be easily mistaken for a higher growth. Drinking well.

1985 Château Talbot, courtesy of Sir Bob at Tang Yun, 20 Sep 2022. Opaque dull red, exuding a glowing funkiness from its deep core of dark fruits. Highly agile and supple, laced with sleek acidity though still firmly structured, imparting a certain degree of sternness.

2019 Louis Jadot Domaine Gagey Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 24 Sep 2022. Deeply coloured with an inviting bouquet of white floral notes, pollen and honeysuckle. Almost full with a predominance of lime and clear citrus, exerting very good tensile presence and intensity without any awkwardness, developing a little chalky brightness in the glass. Good length.

2019 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chênes Rouge, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 24 Sep 2022. Darkish in tone and color with a deep minty lift. Medium-bodied, initially showing a slight excess of acidity though this was properly reined in as the wine opened up with fine integration and bold intensity, allowing its darkish fruit to emerge with unobscured freshness before tapering to slightly sweet gentle finish.

2020 Shaw & Smith M3 Adelaide Hills Chardonnay. Popped and poured at Eastern House of Seafood, 24 Sep 2022. Pale. Generous bouquet of raw nutmeg and grassy elements with a full presence on the palate, displaying fine detail and intensity though it remained rather unyielding throughout the evening, tightly coiled with tense high-toned acidity.

2020 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers, by the glass at Brasserie Les Saveurs, St Regis Singapore, on 26 Sep 2022. Deep purple. Fairly full and ample in ripe cherries, dark plums and wild berries with a bit of savouriness, laced with licorice and vanillin. Serviceable.

2017 Domaine Lucien Muzard et Fils Santenay Maladiere 1er Blanc, aired for an hour before dinner at Liang Kee, 28 Sep 2022. Pale luminosity. Cleanly structured with good definition and terse acidity, imbued with excellent presence of clear citrus and pomelo, fleshing out with rounded cool tones and subdued intensity.

The usual suspects gathered at Summer Pavillion, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, on 15 September 2022 for an evening of Corton-Charlemagne followed by an array of Chambolle reds, all blinded. All the wines were singing, while Leroy is simply Leroy. There was also an open-label Lafite Rothschild thrown into the mix but who would complain? Many thanks, gentlemen.

2017 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. Gleaming white tones and chalky hues dominate amidst a lovely floral fragrance, positively glowing with full presence. Subtly layered, fleshing out with suave intensity, still laced with a dash of creamy vanillin. Very correctly nuanced, as always with the whites of Drouhin.

2015 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Rather bold and unusual on the nose with distinct notes of glycerin and crème de la crème though some fig and peaches are discernible; one could almost be certain this is New World chardonnay. Equally full on the palate where nutmeg and clear citrus dominate with excellent concentration and intensity, evolving with a further expanse of frangipani and white flowers. Ample, rich and powerful. Very unlike the usual style of Bonnneau du Martray, perhaps due to the hot vintage.

2002 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Dull golden. Distinct mature tones on the nose and palate, characterised by a recessed stoniness with overtones of rye though there is no question about its freshness on the palate, still quite full with a placid elegance and regal intensity that tapered to a modest finish. At its best though I wouldn’t keep any longer.

2016 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, courtesy of Vic. Purplish pinot tint, proffering fresh raspberries and cherries with a subtle floral fragrance, carrying a gentle youthful intensity with ample fruit amid minerally elements within its medium-full density. Highly graceful and elegant throughout its moderate length.

2010 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Lovely pinot tint, exuding a superb rosy fragrance with supple glowing intensity on the medium-full palate. Very seamlessly layered with subtle detail, displaying lovely charm and ease with a certain sur-maurite that makes it seem more mature than it really is. Really delicious. I’d thought it to be a mature Musigny Grand Cru. Outstanding.

2006 Domaine Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, courtesy of LF. Deeper, darker tint of pinot, delivering ample depth of ripe dark fruits and currants that still carry youthful intensity, imparting a lovely lift of dark roses and black cherries amid cedar and other sweet secondary characteristics with a chamfered quality on the palate, finishing well.

2015 Domaine Georges Lignier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru. Aired in bottle for three hours prior. This wine opens with a lovely lift of fragrant rosy hues that carry well onto a highly harmonious palate, seamlessly layered with ripe strawberries and cherries that veer towards understatement, perfectly balanced with refined tannins and good length. Doesn’t call attention to itself. Hard to imagine that this producer will still remain affordable for long.

1995 Domaine Leroy Chambolle-Musigny Les Fremières, courtesy of Sir Bob. Mature pinot tint. Highly enticing on the nose with a beguiling floral complex whilst the medium-bodied palate is wonderfully supple and open, structured with melted sweetish tannins that yield subtle detail of chewy red fruits and tangerines. Perfectly proportioned and balanced, still retaining that all-important freshness that makes up for the modest finish. Outstanding! Only 580 bottles produced, of which we drank number 210.

1997 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Sir Bob. Decanted on-site. Deep purplish core, exuding a wonderful deep dark rosy fragrance with a trace of funkiness matched by a lovely rounded warmth on the mature palate, revealing very fine inner detail with subtle glowing intensity. It softened considerably after some time, perfectly balanced as it morphed into the quintessential feminine elegance so characteristic of Lafite even in this so-called “off” year, finishing with modest length. Excellent.

An impromptu gathering at Imperial Treasure Great World, 30 August 2022, where the wines were tasted blind. Whereas I’d previously liked to drink my whites properly matured well beyond ten years, I tend nowadays to agree with my buddies who prefer them younger whilst there is still that freshness and agility with less likelihood of premature oxidation. Another stunning revelation is how good German pinot noir can be these days, for the blinded spätburgunder thrown in the mix had the same stuffing, balance, proportion and finish of a burgundy grand cru (I actually thought it was a Clos Vougeot). One can only conclude that global warming has now resulted in perfect conditions for pinot noir in the traditionally cooler Mosel region. Many thanks, gentlemen.

Champagne Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve Brut Blanc de Blancs, courtesy of LF. Pale golden. Powerful nose of lime, clear citrus and pomelo, displaying very good presence with dry intensity within a highly refined sheen of smooth bubbles with further notes of green apples over time.

2017 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, courtesy of LF. Pale. Refreshing lift of cool morning dew and distant clear fruits with a tangy velvety presence, teasing the palate with rounded fleeting rounded intensity. Fairly harmonious. Subtly layered with fine precision though it doesn’t quite possess that classic white Chassagne signature of Ramonet.

1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob. Dull golden hue with a distinct sur maturite on the nose. Rather reluctant and backward initially, just a seemingly empty chalky shell. Took two hours to shed its shy façade, emerging with subtle chalky hues amid a dash of paraffin as it gradually grew with gleaming intensity of glorious white fruit laced with undertones of varnish, eventually striking a classic Leflaive pose with a bright refined glow.

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Attractive nose of delicious red fruits marked by a deep rosy fragrance though the softly contoured medium-bodied palate is rather modest in presence and finish. Cleanly structured and well-integrated. Doesn’t call attention to itself but neither does it seem to display the depth nor layering one would expect from this grand cru.

2007 Weingut Markus Molitor Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir***, courtesy of Alvin. This spätburgunder displays a very correct aged pinot tint with a bouquet of glycerin and mature red fruits that is most beguiling, wonderfully textured with excellent refined presence on the medium-bodied palate. Seamlessly structured with subtle weight, finishing with superb length in an understated minty flourish. Foxed us all into thinking it was a Côte de Nuits grand cru. While climate change may have become too hot for French vineyards, conditions seem perfect now for pinot noir grown in the Mosel region.

1999 Domaine Louis Jadot Echézeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. There is a certain elusiveness in its slick earthy bouquet though it is absolutely beautiful on the palate, imbued with mature red fruits that still exert youthful intensity with superb freshness, layered with great acidity amid darkish undertones, tapering to a modest finish. At its prime. Louis Jadot reds are always so very correctly nuanced. Very lovely.

2008 Domaine Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Dense deep crimson, exuding rosy hues with delicate tones of haw and a distinct note of varnish. Medium-full. Superbly rounded, yielding fresh deep plummy tones with fine transparency. Cleanly structured and bright with a modest intensity and finish. Excellent.

Vincent Bouzereau Crémant de Bourgogne NV, at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Aug 2022. Gentle yeasty tones amid a bright minerally shine on an expansive dry palate, imbued with very fine presence of brilliant yellow citrus tinged with a dash of sweetness. Drinking well, though it doesn’t quite have that extra dimension of utter finesse and sophistication to measure up to champagne.

2018 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Vaillons 1er at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Aug 2022. Pale. Shy, just a hint of pebbly warmth and summer hay. Medium-bodied with subdued white tones, exuding a quiet placid presence with an understated slick acidity. Evolved with cool icing and subtle detail, developing a growing intensity over time with a stony elegance.

2017 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc, a glass courtesy of Don Roberto at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Aug 2022. Cool clean presence of lifted summer hay, leading to an elegant medium-full palate of distilled nutmeg, olives and grassy elements, showing superb balance and sleek linearity.

2017 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Caillerets 1er, at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Aug 2022. Darkish tint. Ripe wild berries, bramble, dark cherries and currants on the nose. Medium-bodied. Supple with a fleshy svelte intensity, structured with soft sweet velvety tannins, just a tad short.

2017 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix 1er by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Aug 2022. Classic pinot tint. Cleanly defined bouquet of youthful red fruits, slightly reductive. Medium-full. Rather tight presence of darkish characters, structured with dryish lean precision that tapered to a slightly austere finish.

2016 Domaine Daniel Rion Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Hauts Pruliers 1er. Aired in advance for two hours prior to dinner at Otto Ristorante, 04 Aug 2022. Predominant red fruits and cherries on the nose. The medium-full palate is quite brightly lit, exuding a slightly forward delicious glow from the ample fruit within whilst the usual NSG ferrous floor is distinctly muted. Very well balanced, gaining in supple intensity as the evening wore on. Reminds me very much of Hudelot-Nöellat’s NSG. Excellent.

1998 Champagne Henri Giraud Ay Fut de Chene, courtesy of Hoi Leong at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Opaque hue. Firm minerally palate of bitter lemon and pomelo. Rather stern and unsmiling but structured with great precision. Became more deft and agile in the glass, evoking a sense of distilled essence with a tinge of grapefruit.

2016 Thomas Morey Puligny-Montrachet La Truffière 1er, courtesy of Barrie at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Pale. Restrained, exuding cool tones with just a tinge of saline. Very smooth and easy on the palate with a bright clean clarity. More nuanced after some time though remaining generally subdued even as it added a minerally dash at the finish.

1995 Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Aired in bottle for three hours prior. Deep crimson. Mature plummy tones on the nose tinged with smoke. Medium-full, imbued with a moderate presence of red fruits amid a distinct note of iron filings that impart dryish textures. Still a tad angular at first before mellowing beautifully with smooth supple intensity.

2007 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Hoi Leong at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Classic pinot tint. Surprisingly reticent, though the medium-bodied palate shows a very refined presence of ripe dark berries, perhaps just a tad spicy but still very correctly nuanced with lovely purity and definition, finishing with a dash of earthiness befitting its NSG character.

2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, courtesy of Barrie at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Restrained with the classic Gevrey signature of pink roses, wild berries and raspberries on the medium-bodied. Surprisingly more delicate than expected for the vintage, showing good integration.

2018 Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Vosne-Romanée, courtesy of Barrie at Lady Boss Fine Dining, 06 Aug 2022. Deeply coloured. Dark cherries, red fruits and currants dominate with ample presence, layered with velvety detail that excite with supple intensity. Superbly balanced with lovely freshness.

2016 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas de Combes. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes ahead of dinner at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 08 Aug 2022. Deep ruby. Delicious lift of ripe red cherries and currants, carrying well onto the medium-bodied palate layered with a subtle ferrous floor, structured with sophisticated tannins within a fleshy supple warmth. Drinking very well.

Champagne Roger Coulon L’Hommee 1er Brut NV. Popped and poured at Corner Grill, 09 Aug 2022. Alluring smoky hues tinged with ferrous tones on the nose, boasting excellent density of yellow citrus and lime that exert biting dry intensity, oozing with delightful sweetness.

2019 Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes prior to dinner at home, 11 Aug 2022. Dep purple, exuding aromas of dark roses and dark plums that carried well onto the medium-bodied palate, imbued with cool ripe fruit and darkish tones within a frame of smooth tannins, proffering a bit of early detail. Drinking well but not really distinctive.

2020 Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills M3 Chardonnay. Aired in bottle for almost four hours prior to dinner at home, 14 Aug 2022. Very pale greenish hue. Wild grassy elements, summer hay and clear citrus dominate amid overtones of raw nutmeg while the medium-full palate boasts an intense concentration of fruit supported by lively acidity, subtly topped with a layer of crème. Plenty going on but it needs to loosen up a little.

2015 Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Ormes 1er, aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at Rubicon Steak House, 17 Aug 2022. Correct pinot tint, proffering darker shades of rosy hues on the nose with a rounded medium-full velvety palate, beautifully integrated with a predominance of ripe raspberries laced with subtle acidity, gaining in supple intensity over time. Obviously still youthful but this is excellent stuff.

2019 Domaine Vincent Bouzereau Meursault, aired in bottle for an hour prior to dinner at Wah Lok, 19 Aug 2022. Luminous hues, exuding highly refined chalky creamy tones with elegant tension amidst a rounded body of cool ripe tropical fruits. Very well proportioned and balanced, showing excellent clarity and detail with great sophistication, developing a slight minerally tinge with a dash of bitter lemon towards its finish. A great buy.

2016 Meerlust Rubicon, after a brief aeration at home, 21 Aug 2022. Deep purple. Classic cabernet notes of violets, raspberries, black fruits and currants, structured with slightly dryish tannins on the medium-bodied palate. Adequately fleshy and supple with a fine presence of cool ripe fruit. Drinks like a Médoc.

2018 Domaine Belargus Treilles. Popped and poured at Wagyu Jin, 22 Aug 2022, courtesy of Russ. Displaying a clear golden luminosity, this chenin blanc from the Loire exudes cool icing and refined crème de la crème that leads to an unusual note of varnish on the slick perfumed mid-palate, richly imbued with a forward balance of longans that oozed with a distinct note of glycerin. It turned lighter after some time, very cleanly structured with clear precision though there is just that lingering tinge of paraffin at its finish. An astute choice.

2002 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes 1er. Popped and poured at Wagyu Jin, 22 Aug 2022, courtesy of Russ. Slightly darker tint of pinot, proffering a delicious bouquet of haw and rose petals with a fine expanse of dark plummy fruit and currants that exert supple intensity on the medium-full palate. Quite generously proportioned, displaying youthful charm and agility. May not yet have peaked but it is drinking very well.

2003 Château Lafite Rothschild, aired for two hours prior to dinner at Wagyu Jin, 22 Aug 2022. Bright purplish rim, exuding a restrained deep fragrance with early tertiary characters amid some earthy pungency. Medium-bodied. Surprisingly soft, imbued with a mild minerally presence within its slick supple velvety textures, yielding fine transparency and linearity throughout its moderate length. Distinctly  feminine. Almost the quintessential Lafite.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er, aired for three hours ahead of lunch at Otto Ristorante, 24 Aug 2022. Pale greenish hue. Delicate nose of lime and yellow citrus, fairly ample with lovely oily density and intensity on the palate that is almost sexy. Settled down with food to reveal subtle darkish shades within its layers that eventually opened up with superb clarity and clean precision. Excellent value.

2016 S de Suduiraut, popped and poured at Imperial Treasure GWC, 26 Aug 2022. Pale. Rounded nose of peaches, lychees and icing with mild overtones of paraffin. Medium-bodied. Exudes a bright pebbly glare with a deeper ferric vein, opening up with teasing intensity.

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs, aired for two hours ahead of dinner at Imperial Treasure GWC, 26 Aug 2022. Deep purplish core, proffering a dark rosy fragrance. The medium-full palate displays an uneasy forward balance of dark plummy characters with a minty lift, structured with sweetish tannins that exert youthful intensity. Surprisingly big for village. Not quite ready.

In a repeat of an all-Château d’Yquem dinner previously held in 2018, Grace very kindly organised another at the same venue on 01 August 2022, getting Nicolas to open his restaurant specially for us (when he is normally closed on Mondays). It is certainly possible to pair Sauternes with an entire meal without necessarily including foie gras, as we did very well with pasta, seafood and Bresse chicken. The wines speak for themselves. The 2009 is truly outstanding, as is the 1996 whilst the 2010 remains stubbornly tight. And do not forget Château Climens; if at all, the leading premier cru of Barsac, given its lighter touch and agility, goes even better with food. Many thanks, Grace and Nicolas, for your immense generosity and to all for your lovely contributions.

2017 “Y” d’Yquem, several bottles courtesy of Dr Ngoi and Winfred. Pale. Profusion of fig and nectarine within an effusive white sheen with a further note of jackfruit on the palate, showing fine density with restrained elegance and understated intensity, opening up with shimmering supple detail in the glass.

2017 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Poured from magnum. Highly luminous, exuding a superb glow of fresh nectarine and apricot. Wonderfully fresh on the palate, not overly luscious, showing great integral velvety presence in its even tone and linearity. Supremely confident and regal.

2014 Château d’Yquem. Restrained nose of nectarine amidst a distinct note of egg white, slightly reductive. Very cleanly structured and precise, somewhat lean in almonds and golden citrus though it offers fine definition and good clarity, not at all luscious.

2011 Château Climens. Enticing aromas of vanillin, white fruits and incense. Highly slick and agile in its refined acidity, avoiding any hint of heaviness on the medium-full palate already imbued with early secondary characters of fresh lychees and honeyed tones that teased with deft fleeting intensity. Very different in style from Château d’Yquem of the same vintage, distinctly more feminine. A fascinating comparison between the best of Barsac and the best of Sauternes.

2011 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Peter Tan. Rather elusive on the nose, subtly seductive though decidedly more weighty on the palate with an even expanse of fresh nectarine, peaches and white tones that taper with excellent linearity to a long smooth glowing finish marked by a dash of understated minerals.

2010 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Edward. Quite deeply coloured. Profusion of nectarine and apricot with a fullish forward intensity, layered with luscious honeyed tones. Still rather tight and primal. Huge potential, but it needs time to sort itself out.

2009 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Gisela. Luminous golden hue. Superb on the nose, evoking a smoky hedonistic sweetness that contrasted beautifully against the distinct minerally tones within its refined mid-body, displaying intense youthful power with tremendous precision and integration, opening up later with fine clarity. Outstanding.

2008 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Winfred. Luminous gold. Appreciably more mature than expected with a profusion of apricot and orange peels. Medium-bodied, showing good density, its luscious ripe fruit finely balanced against an equal measure of very refined ferrous elements that finished in a slightly peaty glow.

2003 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Soo Kian. Honeyed tones and nectarine dominate with a discernible pebbly warmth. Medium-full. Rather weighty, somewhat autumnal in its brooding intensity, displaying a hint of early maturity towards its attenuated finish.

1997 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Tsun Yan. Poured from magnum. Very deeply coloured, proffering an outstanding bouquet of exotic fumes and petroleum characters. Medium-bodied. Still imbued with great acidity though the fruit, fully mature, is set slightly backward amid medicinal overtones that lent an after note of exotic spice.

1996 Château d’Yquem, courtesy of Sanjay. Poured from magnum. Deeply coloured. Deep effusive glow of mature nectarine, apricot and cinnamon with a dash of orange peel, producing an intoxicating peaty lift. Medium-bodied, displaying lovely integration of fruit and sublime acidity within its layers with a pronounced intensity at its core. Became even more integral and refined after another two hours, smoothening out with tremendous elegance, just a tad short at its spicy finish. Outshone the 1997.

Sanjay very graciously hosted a lovely dinner on 25 July 2022 at Shang Palace, Shangri-la Singapore, generously curating the entire wine line-up as well. It was reassuring to know that standards at this venerable institution have remained undimmed in spite of the untimely passing of Chef Mok last year. Many thanks, Sir !

2004 Champagne Dom Pérignon Rosé. Fairly deep in colour, proffering notes of mandarins and grapefruit with a faint whiff of cordite, showing excellent dry presence and elegant darkish depth as it fleshed out with refreshing glacial tones.

2016 “Y” d’Yquem. Pale but highly enticing in its bouquet of green fruits, distant fig and tropical fruit. Medium-bodied. Seamlessly rounded with cool vanillin, fleshing out with a velvety fullness laced with overtones of jackfruit.

2001 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc. Deeply coloured. Dense bouquet of cinnamon, cedar, honeyed toast and brioche. The medium-bodied palate offers great clarity with its fruit of mature apricot set rather backward, slightly oxidative in character, improving in balance over time though the finish is short. Time to drink up.

2004 Château Mouton Rothschild. Bright crimson. Lovely glow of raspberries, dark currants and mulberries, exuding a silky earthy pungency. The medium-bodied palate is rounded with fleshy suppleness, rather elegantly placid and smoothly delineated though unexpectedly short.

1970 Château Lynch-Bages. Bright crimson. Distant glow of mature claret with a mild reductive pungency. Still quite lively with a fairly deep core of strawberries, cinnamon and star anise set slightly backward, displaying subtle Pauillac character. Still holding on but I’d drink up.

2000 Château Léoville Las-Cases. Deep purple. Effusive in mulberries, raspberries and dark fruit, effortlessly lifted. Medium-bodied. Seamlessly integrated and open with a fleshy suppleness, evolving into its unmistakable Saint-Julien character with further notes of camphor underscored by austere ferrous elements, tapering with subtle biting intensity to a finish that’s just a little short.

1989 Château Coutet. Deep tea-colored. Lovely effusive notes nectarine and honey. Richly imbued but not too luscious, displaying fine agility with understated acidity, exuding white incense with mild medicinal overtones. Impeccably proportioned and balanced. Very successful.

2006 Mount Mary Quintet. Aired for 90 minutes in advance before dinner at Jade Palace, 02 July 2022. Deep currants and dark plums on the nose with a sense of warm pebbles. Rather full with structured intensity, ample in darkish characters intoned with a bright minerally glare that later gave way to emerging notes of mocha and licorice. More open after two hours as it settled with sweet rounded tannins though it still came across as rather dense and heavy, even for cabernet.

2018 Jordan Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 03 July 2022. Deeply coloured. Exudes fresh morning notes while green fruits dominate on the palate, underpinned by prominent ferrous and minerally elements that impart an austere tinge. Fleshed out eventually with an emerging citrus depth, displaying rounded intensity with good clarity and crisp articulation. Drinking well. Another glass, again at 67 Pall Mall on 16 July 2022, displayed fine clarity amid a tangy intensity with distant notes of chalk and crème de la crème. Worth seeking out.

2011 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, a steal at SGD89 from the list of 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 03 July 2022. Crimson brown, exuding charred savoury characters, ember and smoked bacon with more of haw and red fruits later. Softened after some time with good inner detail and refined tannins, displaying an open presence with a tinge of menthol at its glowing finish.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Loche En Chantone, aired in advance for 90 minutes prior to dinner at home, 04 July 2022. Displaying a fairly deep greenish hue, this wine is generously endowed with high-toned characters of tropical fruits, melons and fig underpinned by pomelo and subtle ferrous elements that added a bit of austere depth, imparting an intense tingling mouthfeel with its exciting acidity. Still youthful but lovely to drink now.

2014 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches. Popped and poured at Wah Lok, 10 July 2022. Exuberant bouquet of fig and peaches with a glorious floral fragrance that exude a rich oily density on the palate, displaying great clarity and purity with an unassuming elegance, developing understated intensity amid recessed chalky white tones. Drinking well.

2005 Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, aired for two hours in bottle ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 11 July 2022. Deep dark bouquet of black currants, wild berries, spice and licorice. Medium-full with a textured mouthfeel, exuding a cool minty glow. Dryish at first, then fleshing out with rounded presence as it gelled very well with seamless velvety tannins that oozed a trace of sweetness, evolving with fine clarity and understated structure. Very expertly crafted without any hint of its 14.5% abv.

2019 Domaine Jean Chartron Saint-Aubin Les Murgers Des Dents de Chien 1er, courtesy of Russ at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Explosive bouquet of morning dew, floral fragrance, pears and fig. Even more effusive after some time with further notes of honeysuckle and dense tropical fruits. Lovely tense fullness with exciting mouthfeel, imbued with excellent acidity and precision with a distinct ferrous edge, imparting bit of stern demeanour.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Les Chevalières at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Restrained rounded floral fragrance. Medium-full. Zesty with a teasing soft intensity, showing good clarity with elegant depth and precision, fanning out with quiet glow as it morphed into a seamless entity with further detail amid overtones of nutmeg.

2011 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Lovely deep ruby. Exudes a gentle restrained rosy fragrance matched by very fine juicy succulence on the medium-bodied palate, basking in a long detailed glowing finish with feminine intensity. Drinking well but still remarkably youthful.

1995 Les Forts de Latour, courtesy of Melvin at Nomi, 13 July 2022. Good colour. Lovely sense of velvety depth on the nose amid deep rosy hues, dark plums and some pungent earthiness. Shows excellent depth and freshness with open svelte intensity, displaying understated secondary characters underscored with savoury swagger. Even better than a previous tasting in 2018. At its best.

2009 Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er, courtesy of WCY at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Rich oily density, exuding a sense of opulence in its fabulous bouquet of fragrant floral bloom, yellow citrus, vanillin and white peaches. Medium-full, displaying a layered density and intensity that appeared even more reductive over time with powdery textures that seemed very Meursault-like before settling down with the classic chalky glow of a Puligny-Montrachet.

2015 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Deep pinot tint with a faintly delicious nose of ripe dark cherries. Medium-full. Highly supple with very fine acidity, imparting lovely freshness and verve even before it gelled together with superb clarity and definition, subtly structured. Excellent.

2004 Domaine Jacques-Frèdéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Marechale 1er, courtesy of Sir Bob at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Deep pinot tint with a tinge of brown, showing early secondary cedary characters. Medium-full with supple intensity and acidity though its darkish fruit is somewhat reluctant, laced with a hint of tangerines. Distinctly more minerally at first with a little shiny glare, settling down only after three hours with better integration and balance, finishing with soothing sweet tannins.

2011 Hospices de Beaune Corton Grand Cru vinified by Faiveley for Sir Bob. Aired in bottle for almost three hours prior at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Good colour. Shy on the nose though the medium-bodied palate is imbued with ample red fruits, subtly shaded with a refined relaxed presence. Fleshed out with delicious tones. Surprising bright and cheerful for Corton.

2014 Weingut Markus Molitor Pinot Noir Brauneberger Klostergarten**, courtesy of Alvin at Imperial Treasure Great World, 14 July 2022. Classic pinot tint, showing restrained warmth with a distant shy fragrance of rose petals and cherries. Very correct in character, highly even and smoothly delineated on the placid medium-bodied palate. Foxed us all into believing it to be a true burgundy.

2000 Château Sociando-Mallet, aired for two hours prior to dinner at Otto Ristorante, 15 July 2022. Still showing a deep garnet red with an effusive glow of mature claret, boasting deep dark plums tinged with a dried herbal vegetal hint. Imbued with darkish characters on the medium-full, fleshing out with a lovely rounded presence and fresh acidity with lovely detail. Highly integral. At its best.

2018 Domaine Olivier Leflaive Chablis Le Deux Rives by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 16 July 2022. Pale greenish. Lovely nose of tangerines, lemon peel and peaches that exert a distinct flinty presence. Medium-full. Well integrated and balanced with understated refined acidity, displaying excellent delineation and length as it gained a slight intensity of pineapples and tropical fruits. A steal.

2014 Tyler Winery Zotovich Family Vineyard Chardonnay by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, 16 July 2022. Greenish hue with a restrained floral warmth while lemon peels dominate with a subdued delicate presence, coating the light-medium palate with a high-toned fleeting acidity that teased with shiny minerally elements bringing up the rear. Resembles a Pouilly-Fuissé. Drinking well.

2019 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er. Popped and poured at home, 17 July 2022. Pale greenish hue. Morning dew and distant icing on the nose. The palate is expectedly full and intense, imbued with fresh clear fruits and tangy pomelo that lent a tinge of austerity against the broad sweep of bright citrus.

Chandon Brut NV, at Tanah Merah Country Club, Singapore, 20 July 2022. Fig, distant green fruits, pomelo and icing, rather promising on the nose though the palate is disappointingly straightforward with a dryish intensity.

2018 Stag’s Leap Karia Chardonnay. Aired in bottle for three hours prior to dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 23 July 2022. Pale golden hue. Imbued with a slick oily density that exudes delicious white fruits with a floral lift, topped with gentle notes of crème. Developed further layering and overtones of nutmeg, displaying refined acidity and understated intensity with unassuming demeanour.

1996 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Meursault-Perrières 1er. Aired for two hours in advance prior to dinner at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Luminous, proffering abundant fig and clear citrus on the nose with an orangey tone. Full-bodied with excellent density. Still imbued with lovely freshness and sleek acidity amid mild ferrous elements, showing plenty of zest with a lithe high-toned acidity.

Champagne Liébart-Régnier Horti Extra Brut, courtesy of LF at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. A blend that includes less usual varieties of petit arbane, pinot blanc and petit meslier. Pale. Most alluring bouquet of perfumed floral fragrance amid recessed yeasty tones. Full high-toned palate of highly refined bubbles with a keen lift, sporting a most unusual darkish vein. Very well integrated with a dash of white flint.

2002 Château Margaux, courtesy of Sir Bob at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Deep purple. Rather shy, just hinting at warm gravel. The fleshy open palate is somewhat reductive with a marked presence of capsicum and dark fruits that exert mild supple intensity, a little dryish but agile, developing faint hues of haw. Drinking well but it lacks charm and true complexity.

2002 Château L’Evangile, courtesy of Sir Bob at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Deep purple. Dark fruits and capsicum dominate with soft red fruits in equal measure, exuding gentle warmth. Seamlessly integrated with lithe agility and subtle intensity.

2017 Château de Meursault Meursault-Perrières 1er, courtesy of Kieron at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Luminous. Nose of restrained citrus and white fruits. Medium-bodied. Gently weighted with lovely balance and subtle intensity, finishing with fine linearity.

2017 Domaine Comte Lafon Meursault, courtesy of Kieron at Kiyose, 26 July 2022. Pale. Shy, laced with a slight saline presence. The medium-bodied palate is wonderfully layered with plenty of dimension, proffering excellent freshness and clarity with elegant intensity. Very correct in every way.

2018 Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 28 July 2022. Fairly deep greenish hue, promising green apples, kiwi and fig followed by an emerging floral fragrance Medium-bodied. Rounded and quite ample, layered with a deeper vein of preserved tropical fruit. Good balance, becoming a little more minerally over time. Lingering finish.

2018 Domaine Rapet Père et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Frétille 1er, aired for an hour ahead of dinner at Daniu Teochew Restaurant, 29 July 2022. Luminous. Shy. Medium-full, displaying an even firm chalky presence amid the fragrance of white floral bloom. Evolved much later with dense white tones and fine inner detail. Excellent actually, but under-rated. Needs plenty of time for proper expression.

2005 Château Chasse-Spleen, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 30 July 2022. Deep crimson. Effusive glow of mature red plums, dark fruits and currants, coating the palate with soft chewy tannins that exert supple intensity, revealing fine inner detail with lovely acidity. Went on to develop early tertiary characters of roast, mahogany and cedar gently laced with licorice. Good finish. Highly satisfying.

2019 Domaine de Montille Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er, aired for an hour ahead of dinner at Eastern House of Seafood, 31 July 2022. Lightly coloured. Belies a dense effusive bouquet of glorious ripe yellow citrus, tropical melons and pineapples. Richly imbued with superb supple intensity though still fairly tight, finishing with good length. Fabulous potential.

It was very good to welcome our old friend Pablo Alvarez of Bodegas Vega-Sicilia back to Singapore on 21 July 2022 at Imperial Treasure Great World with a superb line-up (a magnum of Lamarche Échezeaux, unfortunately, wasn’t on form). Pablo has always been very generous to people around him, offering on this occasion a 2019 D.R.C. La Tâche. We were quite taken aback to drink this great wine so soon after bottling but then I recalled Pablo had also sent us a four-year-old 2012 D.R.C. Richebourg for our wonderful lunch at Extebarri in Spain back in 2016. Muchísimas gracias, Pablo, for spending your precious time with us, and the same too to everyone for your generous contributions. We look forward to visiting you at Vega-Sicilia next year.

2005 Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi. Poured from magnum. Dull golden. Distant fig, peaches and tangerines dominate with cool elegance on the nose. Medium-full, displaying superb concentration of glorious fruit interpolated with a mature chalkiness that teased with fleeting intensity, holding the palate in a lovely velvety grip as it evolved with an unending spectrum of delicate white tones that oozed with a trace of sweetness. Hasn’t quite peaked, but really lovely.

2003 Marcassin “Marcassin Vineyard” Chardonnay, courtesy of CW. Deep golden. Lightly varnished tangerines and orange peel dominate on the nose, giving an impression of a Rhône white. The medium-bodied palate is slightly reductive with a glowing intensity of white tones, deeper and more refined over time along with lovely emerging acidity, eventually revealing its true chardonnay character with a tinge of sweetness. Excellent. From a 8-ha site where only a third is planted with chardonnay.

2006 Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut, courtesy of MH. Poured from magnum. Pale. Slightly reductive, evoking fig and summer hay with a gentle pungency. Medium-full, yielding a high-toned palate of pale fruits and pears that shone with refined gentle intensity within a soft sheen of very tiny bubbles. Highly integral. Matches Salon every step of the way.

2007 Domaine Marc Sorrel Hermitage Blanc, courtesy of Don Roberto. Deeply coloured. Astounding nose of kerosene and must. Medium-bodied. Seemingly reticent with lean flavours initially, showing good integration and clarity before fleshing out with greater weight and seamless layers. Lovely.

2015 Domaine Hudelot-Nöellat Vosne-Romanée. Aired for three hours in advance. Classic pinot tint, proffering gentle hues of rose petals and raspberries that carried well onto the open palate with a warm ripe supple intensity. Almost feminine.

2015 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Don Roberto. Lovely clear ruby. Slightly forward balance of red fruits and currants. Highly attractive and alluring with a gentle open supple intensity, the usual minerally streak of NSG on the mid-palate surprisingly restrained. Delicious.

2019 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru, courtesy of Pablo Alvarez. This is the youngest bottle of D.R.C. I’ve had and it is surprisingly accessible even at this infantile stage. Deep purple at its core, this wine exudes deep sweet rosy hues that reflect the wonderful depth of glorious dark fruits and currants at its core. Instead of a tannic monster, the 2019 La Tâche is surprisingly open with supple intensity, just a little tight but it fleshed out convincingly with subtle layers of cool ripe fruit that fan out with lovely dimension, immaculately proportioned and balanced. This is a complete wine in the making.

2012 Domaine Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er, courtesy of Vic. Classic pinot tint. Effusive bouquet of alluring soft rosy hues, leading to an open gentle intensity. Highly supple and integral with a condensed depth. Good length.

2014 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sanjay. Pale. White tones dominate with a restrained cool elegance. Medium-full. Open with a gentle suppleness, seamlessly layered with superb purity of fruit, evolving with a slightly prominent note of salinity over time but it has the poise, balance and correctness only possible through its impeccable pedigree.

2001 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Don Roberto. Luminous gold, proffering lifted white fruits against a recessed chalkiness while white tones dominate on the palate with a refined elegant intensity. Highly integral, displaying a classic Leflaive tone. Still wonderfully fresh with plenty of verve, now at the peak of maturity where its distilled essence evokes a cerebral dimension. Superb.

2013 Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, courtesy of Boon. Classic pinot tint, richly imbued with ripe red fruits. Open with feminine character. Gently layered with rosy hues and subdued acidity, exuding a lovely freshness. Superbly integrated. Finished well.

2003 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Boon. Classic pinot tint. Alluring bouquet of red fruits, cherries and currants amid overtones of paraffin. Richly layered. Wonderfully ripe and delicious as it evolved with further notes of haw and secondary characters. Almost hedonistic, but it exerts fabulous control over its proportions. Superbly balanced.

True to its mission, the Jürade de Saint-Émilion du Singapour conducted a second tasting masterclass (by popular demand!) at Tanah Merah Country Club, Singapore, on 20 July 2022 to promote awareness of Saint-Émilion to club members. Participants were lucky, on this occasion, to be able to taste fairly mature wines in the line-up as four of them were aged at least ten years or older. All bottles were aired for 4-5 hours prior to tasting. All were drinking very well. The lesson here is that even lesser-known wines are capable of ample pleasure given enough bottle age and preparation.

2011 Domaine Du Vieux Mouchet. Deep purple. Some classic mature glow of cinnamon and capsicum on the nose, highly alluring. Lovely fleshy presence with fine acidity. Faintly delicious and juicy, layered with tinge of ferrous elements. Good balance. Decent finish.

2011 Château La Commanderie. Deep crimson. Wild berries on the nose with a vegetal trace. Highly supple with an attractive tannic spine, imbued with ferrous elements in the mid-palate with a structured controlled intensity. Quiet balance. Glowing minty finish.

2012 Château Lapelletrie. Opaque purple. Hint of capsicum and vegetal flare on the nose. Medium-bodied. Fleshy, displaying exciting verve and excellent acidity. Very open and well integrated.

2015 Château Cap De Mourlin. Deep crimson. Soft delicious flavours of haw and red fruits. Open with fleshy supple intensity and exciting acidity. Good refinement and verve. Gelled together very well but it really needs plenty of time.

2005 Château Grand Corbin-Despagne. Deep crimson. Velvety red fruits with a relaxed supple presence, laced with superb acidity. Medium-full. More vivacious over time but still retaining its refined balance. Excellent.