Ric's Wine Journal

One of the most memorable evenings of wining and dining took place on 26 April 2023 at Ki-sho, very kindly hosted by Anthony Oei, on a theme of Domaines Coche-Dury and d’Auvenay offered by Alvin and Sir Bob (most probably) in a moment of madness. On the other hand, what is the point of hoarding such trophies when wine is meant to be shared, particularly when the company is excellent and so knowledgeable? And so everyone dug deep and generously. The wines were blinded; only the manager Gabriele Rizzardi knew, and he did a superb job organising the flights. It turned out we had a mini-vertical of Coche-Dury Meursault, all correctly identified, as was the trio of Chevalier-Montrachet. The non-Coche Meursaults easily held their ground in spite of the stiff challenge, each retaining its own identity. Even the American outliers were excellent. Amazingly, the d’Auvenay appears to be ageless, all part of the old lady’s magic, whereas Leflaive tends to lose its freshness after about fifteen years, a point to note for those with loads of them. After the long line-up of whites, just a simple trio of reds, each so representative of its own terroir, would suffice to round off a wonderful evening. Many thanks, everyone, for your immense generosity and to Anthony for hosting.

2007 Kistler Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden, slightly opaque. Most unusual on the nose at first, rather meaty with a distinct savouriness leading to a dense expanse of warm ripe fruit graced with a pronounced sweetness and sublime acidity, eventually morphing into a seamless entity with a certain elusive velvetiness amid effusive overtones of paraffin. Spicy finish. Excellent in its own right.

2006 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden hue. Clearly mature on the nose, and quite obviously Leflaive in its weighty tones of old chalk, malt and rye replete with caramelised characters, slipping onto the soft velvety palate with a distinct oiliness that fans out with superb mouthfeel, lingering with great persistence amid further notes of cinnamon. Shows tremendous class and sophistication. 

2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Anthony. More developed in colour and tone even though it’s only couple of years older than the 2006. Surprisingly restrained, perhaps even a little musky on the nose though the medium palate is fairly rounded and fleshy, revealing fine definition of layered fruit against a backdrop of distant chalk. Doesn’t quite measure up to the 2006 but its tonal balance is still unmistakably Leflaive, turning more introspective and minerally over time with emerging notes of orange peel.

1996 Domaine d’Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Sir Bob. Deep golden. Clean lean bouquet, showing some restraint that belies the piercing intensity of tropical citrus graced with tight acidity on the tensile medium-full palate, just a little distant at first before settling down with a gentle glow of nutmeg amid a distinct salinity, morphing into an utterly seamless entity with great agility and freshness, revealing white medicinal elements within. Highly persuasive, staying the course throughout the evening. One is never quite sure whether this is at its drinking peak or will it attain even greater heights. Ours was bottle 635 out of 725. Superb!

2008 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Kieron. Clear golden hue, opening with a lifted lightness of apples and pears on the nose. Equally deft and agile on the medium palate, couched in a velvety fullness that impart delicate intensity and refined acidity with a trace of floral sweetness at its gentle finish. Beautifully balanced with effortless elegance and clarity. A more traditional style of Coche-Dury by Jean-François before Raphaël took over. Very classy.

2014 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault, courtesy of Alvin. Pale. Marked reductive tones dominate, greatly enhancing its delicate minerally detail and inner definition with tremendous precision. Settled down with a placid elegance of cool icing and very fine powdery textures tinged with capsicum and tangerines, beautifully balanced and refined to the point of ethereal gleam. Outstanding.

2016 Coche-Dury Meursault. Pale. Good lift of white fruits and clear citrus, slightly reductive though not quite chiseled as expected in spite of the fairly accentuated intensity exerted by its high-toned acidity, yielding tremendous detail. More introspective after some time with a laidback charm before re-emerging with sharp definition, exuding gentle complexity as well. Note the non-domaine labeling.

2010 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er, courtesy of Vic. Light dull golden hue. Surprisingly restrained, proffering a distant nose of floral characters that belies the tight chiseled intensity of white fruit and frangipani that exert considerable power on the rounded palate, shot through with sublime acidity throughout its dense layers. Distinctly Old World.

2016 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres, courtesy of LF. Pale. This wine opens with a reductive pungency, contrasting beautifully against the attractive lift of delicate white fruits and clear citrus that cut across the medium palate with subtle intensity and tension, resembling very much a Coche-Dury in its clean structure, clarity and fine precision though a tad short.

2017 Sandhi Bentrock Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, courtesy of LF. There is a sense of pebbly warmth beneath its pallor, beautifully endowed with an elegant presence of white fruits and tangy citrus that teased with deft agility and great clarity on the medium-full palate, exuding subtle pungency amid overtones of nutmeg and spice with a trace of sweetness. Almost burgundian, holding its ground solidly in spite of coming at the end of a long illustrious list of whites.

2011 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, courtesy of Vic. Evolved crimson. This wine opens with a lovely rosy fragrance, leading to a medium palate of raspberries and darkish fruit shrouded within a thin veil of paraffin, subtly structured with supple intensity and clean definition. Great balance. 

1999 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée Les Brulées 1er, courtesy of Anthony. Opaque pinot tint, proffering plummy tones of mature red fruits in sharp definition amidst a teasing pungency. Still superbly fresh and supple, boasting a fine expanse of fruit evoking mandarins with a deeper core of superb tangy intensity graced by crisp acidity. So highly integral to the point that it is almost reductive. Outstanding.

2004 Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny Grand Cru, courtesy of Kieron. Opaque red, exuding a lovely glow of red fruits and rose petals. Medium-full. Clearly entering its mature phase, displaying cool calm precision with relaxed charm underpinned by sublime acidity, exerting a bit of tonal tension that teased with delicious intensity. Very naturally balanced and structured without calling attention to itself. A classical Musigny, made by a gentleman who understands his terroir. 

A casual but superb evening hosted by Barrie at his residence, 21 April 2023, on a theme of Vosne-Romanée and Puligny-Montrachet. The Chassagne was unexpected but who would ever refuse a Ramonet? Thanks Barrie!

1995 Champagne Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires, courtesy of Barrie. Light dull golden. Dense concentration of yeast and minerally elements on the nose, exuding an attractive austerity. Wonderfully complex and beguiling, still amazingly fresh, yielding delicate detail graced with overtones of cinnamon and burnt metal underpinned by a trace of sweetness. Superb.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Clear golden lustre, opening with a certain restraint amid distant chalk and white tones. Still coiled with fairly tight intensity that teased with fleeting depth on the medium palate. Smoothly delineated with excellent refinement and linearity, developing a laidback charm with overtones of paraffin.

2007 Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie. Clear golden. Effusive in mature white tones within a sheen of paraffin, tinged with the smoke of burnt matchstick, its relative sternness contrasting against a plump fleshy rounded fullness, very subtly layered with delicate white tones that yield fine detail with further caramelised nutty tones. Not quite as ethereal as the Montrachet of Bouchard and Drouhin though impeccably balanced, nevertheless, with more than a hint of aristocratic pedigree. Caught at its peak.

2000 Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er, courtesy of Brandon. Golden hue. Quite effusive and lively with a clean elusive presence of lime and clear citrus. Still imbued with excellent freshness with a medium presence of warm ripe fruit, fleshing out with white fruits though the spectrum is rather narrow and lean. Moderate finish. Holding up well.

1994 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Barrie. Dull pinot tint with some obvious evolution, proffering red fruits and haw. Medium-bodied. Good presence of mature fruit supported by a deeper darker vein, graced by fine acidity with a dash of earthiness wrapped in rounded tannins, yielding fine detail. Good balance but somewhat short.

2011 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint with a nose of red fruits and raspberries, leading to a luxurious velvety bed of delicious fruit underscored by clean crisp acidity that imparted supple refinement. Very well proportioned and balanced. A classical Dujac. Lovely.

2011 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts Christiane 1er, courtesy of Kieron. Classic pinot tint. Delicious lift of red and dark berries, extending to the medium palate with sweet supple tannins. Very seamlessly structured and balanced with good definition and well-integrated acidity, though not as luxuriant or voluptuous as one may imagine this special plot to be, actually lying within La Tâche itself. Moderate finish.

2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er, courtesy of Barrie. Deep garnet. There is a certain darkish restraint on the nose with some notes of briar, though surprisingly energetic with youthful exuberance on the full palate, very cleanly delineated, boasting supple acidity on a bed of velvet, balsam and minerally elements, distinctly stemmy at its moderate finish. I’m not even sure this has reached full maturity for this is truly burgundy done in the old way, requiring years of patience.

2020 Domaine Florent Garaudet Monthelie Sous Le Cellier, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 April 2023. Light greenish with a profusion of attractive floral fragrance matched by very good presence of tangy citrus with a bit of biting intensity on the palate, eventually developing a gentle delicate tension, shining with refined clarity and freshness towards a glowing finish. Good finesse. Very correct.

2010 Château Cissac, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 01 April 2023. Deep garnet. Excellent density of dark plums, currants and wild berries tinged with menthol. Fairly aromatic. Medium-bodied. Structured with tightly knit tannins, slightly angular though neither gruff nor abrasive. Good acidity and grip, developing a bit of delicious coolness but still not quite ready.

2021 M Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, aired in bottle for two hours ahead of dinner on 02 April 2023, Crab At Bay.  Luminous hues. Bold in upfront white pepper, spice, nutmeg and white tones. Structured with smooth power and excellent density, developing cool icing and vanillin with further depth and layering, imbued with a distinct salinity. Great value!

2010 Château Chasse-Spleen, tasted 4-5 Apr 2023 at home. Deep opaque purple, featuring ripe raspberries, mulberries and currants. Highly aromatic, layered with very fine presence and depth of fruit, structured with dryish tannins that added to its inner definition. Fairly masculine. Good finish.

1999 Domaine Robert Ampeau et Fils Auxey-Duresses Ecusseaux 1er. Aired in bottle three hours ahead of dinner at Otto Ristorante, 06 April 2023. Mature red fruits and boiled plums on the nose with a distinct note of heated gravel and burnt cane sugar. Very lively on the medium-full palate, the fruit slightly at risk of being overwhelmed by the pronounced acidity before fleshing out with even supple intensity, yielding fine inner detail amid further notes of briar and wild berries.

2018 Domaine Bertrand Bachelet Maranges La Fussière 1er, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2023. Darkish colour and tone. Fairly attractive nose of dark fruits and plums amid overtones of briar and bramble. Medium-full. Structured with fine acidity with a clean feel. Still rather tight.

Champagne Taittinger Brut Reserve NV, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 Apr 2023. Notes of burnt toast and wisps of gun smoke on the nose amid an effusive icy glow, boasting very good density of clear citrus that cut through with refreshing crispness and clarity, finishing with a tinge of bitter lemon.

2005 Château Duhart-Milon at David’s residence, 15 Apr 2023. Deep purple. Delicious dark berries, currants and tobacco on the nose, replete with the classic Pauillac signature. Fullish with fleshy supple intensity, already developing early notes of cedar and cinnamon. Structured with refined tannins, slightly sweet. Good finish.

1996 Château Lynch-Bages, courtesy of MH at David’s residence, 15 Apr 2023. Deep garnet core. Mature glow of green capsicum and earth with a certain elusive charm. Very open with a relaxed feel on the medium palate, softly contoured with an even moderate intensity of dark fruits.

1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, courtesy of Alan at David’s residence, 15 Apr 2023. Deep garnet core. Distant herbaceous notes amid darkish characters on the nose. Seamlessly structured with supple fleshy intensity, displaying an open ripe plummy warmth. Good balance though there isn’t much depth, the fruit beginning to fade a little.

2004 Carpineto Vigneto Poggio Sant’ Enrico Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Aired in bottle prior to dinner at home, 17 April 2023. Deep purple. This wine appears to have turned the corner, the tannins now considerably softer and gentler, yielding true sangiovese tones of raspberries and rose petals in soft focus on a base of sandy gravel, open with delicious subtle detail. At its best.

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut NV. Poured from magnum at Solo Ristorante, Singapore, on 18 Apr 2023. Pale. Highly aromatic in dense citrus, lemon and pomelo that is well-replicated on the palate with refreshing zest and fine detail, oozing with great verve and intensity before settling down with glacial tones and subtle buttery characters.

2015 Domaine Thibert Père et Fils Pouilly-Loché En Chantone, aired in bottle ahead of dinner at Crab At Bay, 23 Apr 2023. Generous nose and body of lime and clear citrus laced with crisp cutting acidity laid on a dense minerally base. Fleshed out with more of ferrous elements amid pears and white fruits. Well-balanced with refreshing zest.

2014 Domaine Philippe Chéron Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Varoilles 1er. Aired in bottle for three hours ahead of lunch at Bedrock Bar & Grill, 24 Apr 2023. Slightly darkish in tint and tone. Medium-full. Rounded with good presence of mulberries and wild berries, its acidity fairly pronounced at first before morphing into a refined supple entity, fleshing out with a deep dark rosy intensity, well-integrated with substantial power. Long minty finish. Excellent potential. No wonder Prieuré-Roch has bought over this entire monopole, its inaugural vintage of 2020 jacked up to SGD800 per bottle.

2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs. Popped and poured from magnum at A Symphony of Passions Gala Dinner, 29 Apr 2023, at Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore. Opaque purple. Nose of raspberries, dark cherries and wild berries. Suitably ripe, exuding rose-scented aromas. Surprising soft and rounded in spite of the large format bottling, displaying refined presence of fruit with understated acidity underpinned by sweet subtle tannins.

2016 Domaine Lucien Muzard et Fils Santenay Maladière 1er Rouge. Aired for ninety minutes prior to dinner at Liang Kee, 30 Apr 2023. Attractive soft floral aromas of dark roses and cherries amid some briar. Nicely rounded and supple, structured with unobtrusive smooth tannins that exert mild intensity, displaying good depth and layering with a dash of stems. Drinking well.

Rose & Arrow Estate began in 2012 as a collaborative effort between Mark Tarlov (who started Evening Lands) and Louis-Michel Comte Liger-Belair of the eponymous domaine in Vosne-Romanée, looking to produce the best expression of Oregon pinot noir through a fastidious in-depth study of the Basalt soils of the Willamette Valley by uncovering the best plots within plots. While they own or farm over 60 hectares of land there, less than four percent of the harvest goes into the prestigious Rose & Arrow cuvées. Since the untimely passing of Mark, the estate has also ended its relationship with Comte Liger-Belair. Its viticulture and winemaking are now entirely in-house, led by Felipe Ramirez who had originally conducted the geological studies. However, the ties with Vosne-Romanée still exist in the usage of French barrels that are still flown in every year, of which twenty-percent consists of new oak. The 2019 line-up below was specially organised by one of the estate’s partners, Tristan Sjoberg, at Solo Ristorante, Singapore, on 18 April 2023. Compared with the 2018, the 2019s appear to be more masculine and extracted, very tightly wound at this stage which makes it difficult to pass judgement. Part of this, I suspect, is due to the wines being served in generic non-burgundy glasses compared with the 2018s that were tasted from Zalto burgundy stemware at 67 Pall Mall last year (click here). Nevertheless, the potential is evident, most clearly articulated by the Rose & Arrow Stonecreek. Patience is required. Many thanks, Tristan!

2020 Rose & Arrow Estate Eola Springs Chardonnay. Pale. Darkish bouquet though the palate is tightly structured with chiseled white tones, very cleanly delineated with sharp precision and crisp acidity but still exuding a refined elegance through its subtle verve and intensity, developing further notes of nutmeg and olives. Highly successful.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Hopewell Hills. Deep ruby. Dark roses and cherries on the nose. The full palate is imbued with abundant warm ripe fruit laid on velvety textures, graced by fresh acidity that lingered with glowing persistence. From Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Gathered Stones. Deep garnet. Some restraint is evident on the nose while the rounded supple palate is appreciably weightier, beautifully clean and precise, structured with silky tannins on a solid backbone of deep dark fruit that swept across with delicious fleeting intensity. Very finely balanced with good sophistication. Excellent. From vines grown on porous volcanic rocks. From Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Highland Close. Deep purple. Nose of mulberries, raspberries and dark currants. Well extracted with a full darkish presence. Structured with masculine proportions, underscored with some velvetiness from understated sweet tannins. Cool minty finish. Still too tight at this point of time though its potential is huge. From Chehalem Mountain, Oregon.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Riverline. Deep ruby, proffering dark roses amid exotic spices and overtones of warm wet gravel. Fairly supple, structured with cleanly defined tannins laced with an understated sweetness but its pronounced acidity is not helpful at the moment, way too intense and awkward. Slightly more perfumed after some time though it remained bright and pebbly.

2019 Rose & Arrow Estate Stonecreek. Deep purple. Highly attractive dark floral fragrance matched by superb concentration of fruit, richly layered and structured with fine definition but yet to open. Excellent sophistication. Very classy. Huge potential here. Proudly claimed by the estate to be its equivalent to a burgundy grand cru, and quite justifiably so. From Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon.

The great Jasper Morris, M.W., conducted a masterclass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 14 April 2023 featuring the wines of Domaine Perrot-Minot, comparing 2015 (by all accounts an extraordinary vintage for the Côte d’Or) with 2012 (a difficult one), plus a couple of grand crus from 2011 (tricky, where the reds are lighter). The domaine is run by Christophe who took over from his father Henri in 1993. Known for his severe selection and, hence, declassification of whole bunches of grapes, Christophe is not the type to actively promote his wines, which probably accounts for its relative obscurity although they certainly command quite a hefty premium. Using no more than 20% new oak, the differences between 2015 and 2012 are clearly discernible across different communes; I certainly prefer the latter at this stage, drinking better and costing less as well. Perrot-Minot is one of the very few owners of the small plot of La Combe d’Orveau 1er in Chambolle which directly abuts Musigny Grand Cru, always desirable at the correct price. The domaine also bottles its Mazoyères separately from Charmes-Chambertin (many others tend to lump it all under the latter) and this tasting proves the former to have its own distinct merits. At this price point, however, there are many options for the connoisseur to choose from…so choose wisely.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Aux Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes. Crimson hues. Highly alluring perfumed fragrance of red plums, mandarins, rose petals and haw. Medium-full. Rather delicate at first, displaying refined acidity and detail before developing a little more verve and body, weighty enough though its layers remain closed. Not the voluptuous sort.

2012 Domaine Perrot-Minot Vosne-Romanée Aux Champs Perdrix Vieilles Vignes. Classic pinot tint with some early evolution, exuding a clean rosy fragrance with a tinge of earth. There is a certain restraint on the palate, distinctly more minerally than the 2015, displaying an even presence and fullness with understated acidity. Good balance. Fleshed out beautifully with a lovely glowing finish.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Vieilles Vignes. Clear ruby, lifted in cherries and tangerines with effusive charm, bursting with excellent fullness and purity of fruit laced with sublime acidity. Settled down with understated supple intensity. Still rather tight, turning a little chunky in the glass after some time. Very fine.

2012 Domaine Perrot-Minot Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Vieilles Vignes. Classic pinot tint. Equal measure of mandarins and cherries doused with a distinct minerally presence, its relative austerity masking the fruit. The palate is consistently darkish and earthy, laid on a subtle but persistently ferric floor. Quite integral and stolid, structured with unobtrusive rounded tannins. Drinking well.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Nuits-Saint-Georges La Richemone 1er Vignes Centenaires. Classic pinot tint. Fairly effusive in red fruits and haw. Medium-full. Very cleanly delineated, displaying good precision and freshness though a little lean. Fleshed out well with rounded ripe fruit laid on a minerally floor. From vines planted in 1902.

2015 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er Vieilles Vignes. Lovely pinot tint though it is rather restrained on the nose in spite of the forward balance of fruit on the full palate, still quite tightly wound. Well-structured with vibrant acidity, displaying good power and succulence that taper to a moderate finish. Needs several more years in bottle. From vines planted in the 1930s.

2011 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Evolved pinot tint, exuding a very gentle delicate perfumed fragrance. Medium-full. Distinctly more weighty and layered than any of the preceding wines, appreciably more integral and a notch higher in sophistication and refinement. Moderate finish.

2011 Domaine Perrot-Minot Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes. Opaque crimson. Excellent in density and detail of fruit, seamlessly structured with refined acidity underpinned by a distinct sweetness that imparted some velvety succulence before receding into its shell, turning more minerally with understated fruit.

The usual suspects gathered at Summer Pavillon, Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, on 11 April 2023 to mark LF’s twin-digit milestone with a stellar Bordeaux line-up where it turned out every decade between 1960-2010 was represented. Many happy returns, and many thanks too for dinner and for the generous contributions.

2006 Champagne Pierre Péters L’Esprit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, courtesy of LF. Clear golden. Plenty of yeasty pungency amid characters of burnt toast and walnuts on the nose. Fairly plump and rounded with a full presence of bright clear citrus and pomelo from the blanc de blancs within a sheen of soft bubbles, yielding fine definition and intensity with a trace of sweetness.

1993 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc, courtesy of Sir Bob. Light golden, opening with a pronounced earthiness that quickly blew off to reveal notes of malt and rye with a characteristic powdery texture that I find to be consistent in these blends of sémillon/savignon blanc, replete with distinct tones of mature white fruit on the medium palate. Still fairly fresh with fine clarity, taking on a high-toned acidity over time but it lacks real complexity and layering.

1960 “Y” d’Yquem, courtesy of Sir Bob. Tasted blind. Dull opaque golden hue, proffering a refined nose of cashews and almond with a distinct note of preserved plums amid classic powdery textures that teased with a certain elusiveness. Still holding up with crisp acidity though the fruit has receded somewhat, glowing with mature white tones and distant chalky characters with a signature style and balance that is distinctly d’Yquem. Only its second vintage after the inaugural 1959. What a privilege!

1973 Château Mouton Rothschild, courtesy of LF. Tasted blind. Displaying a lovely deep ruby with substantial bricking, this seminal vintage of Mouton opens with a most alluring fragrance of rose petals within a glowing complex of mature dark fruits and currants, tinged with a dash of smoke. The medium palate is seamlessly structured and integral with a distinct autumnal character of tangerines and red plums, perfectly balanced with just enough fruit to match the acidity that is still fairly fresh, carrying itself with graceful elegance towards a quiet finish. Certainly worthy of its elevation to premier cru that year though Mouton, indeed, does not change. Thank you!

1968 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve, courtesy of LF. Darkish core, proffering a weighty bouquet of herbal and medicinal characters with overtones of smoky diesel. Clearly mature but still fairly full in ripe red plums and mandarins underpinned by darker tones on a bed of sweet velvety tannins, displaying good verve.

1983 Château Lafite Rothschild, courtesy of Kieron. Deep garnet, basking in an effusive glow of mature dark berries, capsicum, mushrooms and cigar box with a teasing elusiveness. The medium palate is soft and fleshy, imbued with a supple intensity of plummy tones laced with sleek acidity, receding a little in fruit over time but still holding on with moderate presence before tapering to a quiet finish.

1996 Château Cheval Blanc, courtesy of Vic. Deep crimson, opening with a gentle fragrance of distant red fruits. The medium palate is rounded with soft tannins, rather relaxed and placid with understated detail and minerality. Moderate finish. Distinctly feminine.

2004 Château Latour. Deep garnet. Classic Pauillac nose of soy and tobacco amid a deep dark rosy fragrance. Medium-full, displaying some early complexity within its layers of ripe fruit and subdued minerality that lent a trace of austerity. Very well proportioned, exerting controlled power and sweet subtle intensity through its structured tannins and slick acidity that culminate in a long glowing finish.

Some for reason, Peter Michael Winery would usually not be the first name one thinks of when discussing Californian wines, but everyone seems to agree that its whites and reds belong right up there with the best. Started in 1982 when Sir Peter Michael purchased 255 hectares of volcanic ridges on the western face of Mount Helena in Knights Valley, the winery focuses on chardonnay, pinot noir as well as Bordeaux-inspired blends, sourced entirely from individually-farmed estate-owned vineyards located on steep hillsides at altitudes well above 500 feet. One senses a fastidious streak in the winemaking which is organic (though not biodynamic): triple-sorting of whole clusters during harvesting, the grapes are 100% de-stemmed, the French barrels are only medium-toasted and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. Only 20,000 cases are produced in total annually, accounting for its relative scarcity on the secondary market. For this tasting on 05 April 2023 at the offices of Wine Clique, Singapore, Paul Michael (son of Sir Peter) and Peter Kay (Sales Director) have specially flown in to showcase Les Pavots (its French name refers to the poppies that initially grew on the land first purchased by Sir Peter), the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend, as well as Au Paradis, made from a more recent acquisition in 2009 in Oakville where the blend comprises at least 75% cabernet sauvignon with cabernet franc making up the rest. I find Les Pavots to be consistently lush and opulent, its exuberance never tipping into uncontrolled hedonism, while Au Paradis is more classically structured with a restrained elegance, drinking better at this point of time whilst the former needs a long runway. Many thanks, Alice and Emerson.

2019 Peter Michael Winery Les Pavots, comprising 60% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot, 14% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. Deep garnet. Great abundance of dark plums and red currants beneath the rich creamy nose, developing a further effusive core of tropical fruits. Medium-full. Very luxuriant, ripe and lush, rounded with smooth svelte tannins underscored with sublime acidity. Just a tad forward but nobody really minds when the fruit is so drop-dead gorgeous. Already accessible in spite of its masculine proportions, gelling together very well with juicy succulence. Utterly delicious. This will turn out to be a great Les Pavots, if one has the patience.

2018 Peter Michael Winery Les Pavots, comprising 68% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 19% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. Deep crimson. Perfumed dark rosy characters amid waxy overtones, displaying pointed definition of red fruits. Medium-bodied. Highly supple with very good density of fruit, quite seamlessly integrated with refined tannins and acidity, imbued with understated minerally elements. Moderate finish. Classically structured and proportioned. Drinking well.

2011 Peter Michael Winery Les Pavots, comprising 73% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 14% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot. From a cooler vintage. Deep crimson. Lovely lift of haw, cherries and red currants amid discernible traces of paraffin and marmite, marking its entry on the medium-full palate with a rush of deep rosy characters from a gorgeous core of fruit that is so wonderfully fresh and lively, delivering great verve. A little forward, just like the 2019, but it suits the wine well, already imbued with early complexity on a bed of velvety tannins. Impeccably balanced. Yet to peak, but it is so irresistibly delicious.

2019 Peter Michael Winery Au Paradis, comprising 76% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot and 16% cabernet franc. Deep purple. Highly aromatic with a distinct note of vanillin and paraffin. Good density of ripe plummy tones beneath, fairly lively though it doesn’t really plumb the depths. Appreciably less tannic than Les Pavots, finishing well with pronounced medicinal tones.

2018 Peter Michael Winery Au Paradis, comprising 76% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot and 11% cabernet franc. Deep crimson. Fairly aromatic, where haw and red fruits dominate with a distinct note of vanillin. Almost exuberant, such is its lively acidity and energetic burst on the medium-full palate. Very well integrated with sleek tannins, taking on a sudden and surprising austerity as more ferrous elements emerged to the fore. Good finish.

2011 Peter Michael Winery Au Paradis, comprising 76% cabernet sauvignon and 24% cabernet franc. Deep crimson. Lovely bouquet of complex fruit and capsicum with a teasing elusiveness. Medium-bodied. Highly supple and elegant. Very well-proportioned, displaying very good juicy presence and energy with refined detail. Classically structured and balanced. This has developed very well. Superb.

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé will, surely, be familiar to all lovers of burgundy as it owns the lion’s share of Musigny Grand Cru (7.2 ha), which already accounts for 57% of the domaine’s total holdings. Still, there is not enough wine to go around, partly because half of the Musigny vines are cordon-trained which results in lower yields of about 25 hectolitres per hectare. Whilst the history of this domaine may be traced as far back as 1450, it officially came under Comte Georges de Vogüé in 1920. Its modern history, though, only took off in 1986 when Francois Millet joined as cellar master (until 2019) while the aptly named Eric Bourgogne came on board a decade later in 1996 to manage the vineyard. Quality has been tremendous during this outstanding period of more than thirty years, and it is certainly a distinct privilege to be able to taste through a vertical of Comte de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru, all made by the legendary Francois Millet, on 30 March 2023 at Sonder, Singapore, kindly organised by Domaine Wines in the presence of Comte de Vogüé’s long-serving Sales Director Jean-Luc Pepin. The Musigny of Vogüé is consistently graceful and elegant even in riper vintages where the wine may be more generously proportioned, never calling attention to itself though it demands absolute patience in the Old World manner. Its vieilles vignes designation implies the wines are made from mature vines, as plantings less than twenty-five years of age are declassified and bottled as Chambolle-Musigny 1er. While approachable, the wines that evening would most certainly show better another decade or two down the road and with plenty of aeration in bottle. It remains to be seen how the wines from 2020 onwards, made by new cellar master Jean Lupatelli, would fare but I suspect it will always be the ever-diminishing supply of pre-2020 vintages of Comte de Vogüé that wine lovers will seek and cherish. Merci beaucoup, Jean-Luc and Alvin, for your friendship.

Champagne Ruinart Brut NV, courtesy of Sir Bob. A bottle from 1985 but only popped now. Luminous golden hue, proffering a generous bouquet of walnuts, almonds and yeasty overtones. Still very fresh, full and vibrant, coating the palate with luxurious soft bubbles underpinned by a deeper sweet gentle intensity. Excellent.

2017 Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet, courtesy of LF. Beautiful clear luminosity, exuding highly elegant tones of distant chalk and yellow citrus where its subtle powdery white tones and restraint sing unmistakably of Chassagne, particularly as it rounds off the palate with a lovely teasing intensity already imbued with some early complexity. Wonderfully precise. Very classy.

2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Coming after the frosty vintage of 2016 where the generous bud burst had necessitated active green pruning. Translucent deep purplish hue, proffering mulberries and cranberries on the nose. The medium-full palate features ferrous elements and dark cherries in equal measure, its highly refined acidity imparting a degree of freshness to the measured intensity of red fruits. Very finely balanced, finishing with subtle glowing length though, somehow, it comes across as being somewhat underwhelming, missing in layering. 13% abv.

2011 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Purplish core with some bricking. Highly reticent on the nose, just hinting at warm pebbles against a backdrop of distant red fruits. Rather full and bright, the fruit appreciably lighter and more delicate, imbued with undertones of dried mushrooms. Seamlessly integrated though without much weight, tapering to a moderate finish marked by a dash of spice. Distinctly feminine. Only 12% abv.

2010 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Deep ruby. Gentle fragrance of rose petals and raspberries. Quite full and fleshy, displaying good purity of fruit with refined intensity and controlled verve, underscored by a subtle minerally vein. Very elegant and unassuming. Moderate finish. Rather understated on the whole. 13% abv.

2014 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Fairly deep garnet red. Quite effusive in raspberries and mulberries, tinged with an elusive herbal character amid a certain earthiness from what seems to be early secondary characters. Bright and cheerful, lit by vivacious red fruits and ripe cherries that impart great energy and controlled exuberance whilst maintaining its refined balance and purity, turning a little more minerally over time. Highly successful from a vintage of weather extremes.

2005 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. Clear deep ruby. Gentle aromas red fruits and currants amid some haw. More masculine and fleshy, cleanly structured with excellent presence of cool ripe fruit that exert lovely svelte intensity. Highly harmonious and impeccably balanced, underpinned by a deeper vein of fruit though less minerally than expected. Moderate finish. 13% abv

2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc Grand Cru. Pale. Generous allure of floral aromas in full bloom along with attractive white tones, bananas and cinnamon, all very beautifully matched with indescribable complexity in spite of its youth. Only medium-bodied but all the better, allowing its layers of fresh elegant fruit to shine with relaxed charm and utter refinement, immaculately proportioned all the way to its confident but restraint finish. Already fabulous in its infancy, this will turn out to be truly legendary, worthy of a place amongst the pantheon of the greatest whites. Whereas only previously bottled as Bourgogne Blanc (from 1994 to 2014) even though the chardonnay comes from a 0.66 ha plot in Musigny, the vines have come of age since the 2015 vintage, hence its rightful classification now as Musigny Blanc Grand Cru.

2017 Gran Moraine Chardonnay, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Mar 2023. Luminous. Notes of delicate citrus with distant minerally tones, developing more detail of tropical fruits with a teasing quality underscored by a controlled but intense cutting acidity. Good fullness, but a tad short.

2012 Château Haut-Marbuzet, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 02 Mar 2023. Deep garnet. Forest characters, capsicum, bell hoppers and dark plums on the nose, marking its entry on the palate with a sharp attack. Still very tight with rustic intensity, somewhat constricted as well.

2019 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Petites Abeilles Blanc from the list of Chapter 1, 08 Mar 2023. Comprising 80% clairette with 20% roussanne, this Rhône white exudes delicate green fruits and floral characters that explode with excellent inner detail of capsicum, spice and nutmeg on the full, chiseled palate, displaying good weight and density with a crisp freshness, turning more introverted with greater intensity of its Rhône character over time, settling with cool glacial tones that lent a touch of austerity. Very good value.

Champagne Veuve Clicquot Brut NV, by the glass at the Royal Opera, Covent Garden, on 13 Mar 2023. Pale light golden hue, proffering bitter lemon, wildflowers and green melons on the nose with mild yeasty tones. Shows good definition and fullness with a cultured intensity, not too dry.

2016 Château Perron, at £78 off the list of The English Grill at The Rubens at The Palace, London, on 16 March 2023. Deep crimson, opening with aromatic red fruits and rose petals with some early secondary development, displaying very fine presence of fruit and acidity on the medium-full palate, shaping up with silky intensity and attack. Structured with refined tannins that yield chewy gritty detail with a deeper vein of blueberries and currants, tapering to a spicy finish with traces of shiny ferrous minerals.

Arcobello Prosecco Brut NV, by the glass at the Krisflyer Lounge, Heathrow Airport, 17 Mar 2023. Very pale. Attractive nose of green fruits and melons with a very clean presence, showing good balance and dry intensity, just a little minerally as it finished on a note of bitter lemon.

2020 Château Le Roc, by the glass at the Krisflyer Lounge, Heathrow Airport, 17 Mar 2023. Light medium, fleshing out with raspberries and wild berries but the fruit is set too far backward with a greater prominence of tensile acidity.

Champagne Charles de Cazanove Brut NV, on board SQ317 from LHR-SIN, 17 Mar 2023. Full presence of clear citrus and lime with a splash of ferrous elements, oozing with a trace of sweetness amidst the dry intensity. Drinking well.

2021 Oyster Bay Chardonnay, at the wedding of Jensen & Bea at JW Marriott, Singapore, on 18 Mar 2023. Pale, proffering morning dew and grassy elements with a distinct chalkiness that imparted a bit of glare on the medium palate, imbued with saline minerals.

2019 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Seventy Six Shiraz Cabernet, at the wedding of Jensen & Bea at JW Marriott, Singapore, on 18 Mar 2023. Deep garnet. Delicious sweet dark plums and currants dominate, underpinned by bold acidity. Easy forward balance, its potential heaviness offset by silky smooth tannins.

2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er, courtesy of Vic at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Classic pinot tint. Subdued nose, more minerally with ferrous elements. Good presence of cool raspberries on the medium palate, well integrated with subtle acidity but lacking real depth. Moderate finish. I’d expected more.

2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Pale. Very lovely bouquet of perfumed floral fragrance along with early notes of cedar and tropical fruit. The medium palate is highly refined and beautifully integrated with excellent clarity and precision, boasting elegant aromatic white tones and nutmeg that linger with controlled intensity, tinged with traces of salinity. One of the very best examples of this wine. Superb.

2017 Hospices de Beaune Beaune cuvée Maurice Drouhin, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Good colour. Rosy fragrance of red fruits and summer hay on the nose, though the fruit is decidedly backward on the medium palate, resulting in some reticence not helped by its dryish tannins. Fleshed out with greater fullness and lovely balance after a couple of hours with a distinct note of mocha.

2015 Domaine Francois Lamarche Échezeaux Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Good colour. Raspberries and dark rose petals on the nose with a dash of incense. Medium-bodied. Surprisingly backward, though the unobtrusive tannins add up to good refinement and delineation. But it really can do with more fruit.

2008 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Classic pinot tint. Good lift of perfumed rosy fragrance tinged with cedar and cinnamon, while haw and plummy red fruits dominate amidst a high-toned acidity on the medium palate, displaying excellent freshness and refined detail. Distinctly feminine.

2006 Domaine Meo Camuzet Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er, courtesy of Boon at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Classic pinot tint. Lifted in red fruits, plums and haw that came from a medium-full presence of cool ripe fruit imbued with velvety warmth. Wonderfully, whole, displaying lovely elegance and balance all the way to its gentle lingering finish. Very classy.

2003 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Perrières 1er, courtesy of Boon at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Classic pinot tint. Haw and ferrous elements on the nose whilst red fruits dominate on the medium palate with gentle intensity and supple freshness, missing real depth and complexity as it drew up to a short finish though there is no sign of heat stress.

2006 Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Nuits-Saint-Georges, courtesy of Boon at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Classic pinot tint, proffering a rosy fragrance that took on greater aromatic lift over time, leading to a medium palate imbued with cool ripe fruit that exude a wonderfully controlled intensity and freshness, structured with excellent refinement and precision. Moderate finish. Very lovely.

2013 Domaine Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Good colour. Subdued rosy fragrance. Quite fleshy, structured with good refinement and clean definition though the fruit is far too backward for a grand cru, rather narrow as well, lacking depth and dimension. Developed a little more presence after some time but it remained short.

2013 Domaine Faiveley Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, courtesy of Dr Ngoi at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Great colour. Effusive floral fragrance with fine intensity of fruit on the medium palate, though lacking true depth and layering, invariably short as well. A far cry from its 2009 and 2010.

1996 Château Lynch-Bages, courtesy of MH at Imperial Treasure Great World, 22 Mar 2023. Deep crimson. Effusive complex of capsicum, blueberries, violets and black currants amid an attractive barnyard pungency, exerting supple intensity on a fleshy medium palate imbued with sleek velvety tannins and refined power. Impeccably proportioned with lovely elusive charm. Doesn’t call attention to itself. Thoroughly superb, caught at its absolute peak.

2005 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er, courtesy of John after hours, 24 Mar 2023. Deeper pinot tint. Powerful bouquet of plummy tones, red fruits and menthol with an early note of sur-maturite. Medium-bodied. Highly supple and fleshy, structured with very refined tannins and sleek acidity, softly contoured with good inner detail. Doesn’t really plumb the depths but the balance is quite impeccable, consistent with its subdued intensity that adds to its feminine stance. Quiet finish. Approaching its peak.

2019 Nicole Lamarche Bourgogne Rouge. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes prior to dinner at Sin Chao Garden, 24 Mar 2023. My second bottle in as many months. Purplish hue. Faint fragrance of roses, cherries and raspberries. Softly contoured. A tad too relaxed and laidback at first before gaining traction as it warmed up with an attractive intensity of mulberries and currants, showing fine detail and purity with unobtrusive tannins. Distinctly feminine. Demands plenty of time and proper stemware.

2016 Château Carbonnieux Blanc, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 25 Mar 2023. Light greenish. Keen bouquet of complex citrus with a perfumed floral fragrance from a dense body of fruit, displaying excellent fullness and acidity with a teasing intensity, yielding good detail and precision before giving way to an emerging austere minerality, basking in a glowing lingering persistence. Good stuff.

2015 Château Nenin, by the glass at 67 Pall Mall, Singapore, on 25 Mar 2023. Deep garnet. Attractive nose of cocoa, mocha, dark currants and sweet black berries. Surprisingly supple, structured with soft but tightly knit tannins that exert lovely biting intensity with understated acidity on the darkish palate, finishing with refined length and linearity. Approachable though best to lay down for another 8-10 years.

2019 Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Vieilles Vignes Bourgogne Blanc. Aired in bottle for ninety minutes prior to dinner at home, 29 Mar 2023. Pale greenish hue. Soft floral characters and morning dew on the nose while frangipani and clear citrus dominate on the palate with a warm rounded fullness, coloured with buttery créme de la créme in the background that exude gentle sweetness, very beautifully integrated with lovely freshness and acidity. Drinks well above its classification.

Monsieur Laurent Ponsot very kindly accepted my offer to host him to lunch at Imperial Treasure Great World, Singapore, on 09 March 2023, almost four years to the date when I’d last met him in Singapore (click here). It seems neither age nor the pandemic has affected him one single bit, for he still appears exactly the same as I’d remembered, picking up his charm and persona where he’d left off. Laurent has made full use of his time, for he’d just completed writing a book about his personal endeavours into the infamous Rudy Kurniawan affair that promises to lay bare about the entire fraudulent wine business. Laurent wouldn’t reveal anything more (“read the book!”) though it’s clear that, even till now, the latter has no place at all in his heart. When I mentioned that Rudy himself had been in this very same private room only four nights ago, Laurent, his eyes twinkling, said he already knew as someone had sent him a photo. Well, well…Laurent is certainly very well-informed about things and he is not afraid to express his opinion. He does not use new oak at all, believing that it is even more permeable to micro-oxygenation, something that he attributes to the high rate of premox encountered in the wines of Domaine Leflaive. Laurent is on a mission to raise the image of negociants, unfairly looked upon as being second-rate to actual domaines, for Domaine Ponsot previously had also run a negociant business, as is Laurent Ponsot’s own line now (established 2017) which is entirely that. He has expanded to more than 20 different wines, each of which is supplied by 5-8 growers which he then blends to produce a representative cuvée. His wines certainly do speak of their individual terroir in full but elegant terms, always very tastefully balanced without resorting to gimmickry even though his labels sport that Star Wars type of font (I personally like it very much). We drank on a theme of Morey-Saint-Denis for the reds to pay hommage to Laurent’s origins; by sheer coincidence, there was a trio of Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, no less. In spite of global warming, Laurent remains highly optimistic that climate change will not adversely affect the quality of wines in the long run, as he points out that climate change has always been a regular phenomenon since the start of time. Well, we must certainly hope that he’s also correct on this, just as he has been on a whole range of issues about winemaking to be who he is today. Merci beaucoup, Laurent, for spending your precious time with us, and we look forward to visiting you in Burgundy soon.

Champagne Bollinger R.D. 2007, courtesy of Russ. Dull golden. Distinct note of grapefruit on the nose, leading to quite a full palate of delicate citrus, pomelo and bitter lemon with a pronounced tone of austere minerals cushioned by a refined density of soft bubbles, oozing with sweet intensity at the finish after some time.

2018 Laurent Ponsot Meursault Charmes Cuvée de la Centaurée, courtesy of Alice. Dull golden. Excellent fullness and density of clear citrus and lemon, structured with clean definition and clarity. Very lively and fresh, displaying good balance between the fruit and its deeper vein of ferrous minerals, stoking the palate with a tinge of sweetness.

2005 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets. Darkish opaque golden hue, proffering a weighty nose of peaches and caramel. Still rather full and agile in spite of its distinct maturity, the fruit approaching that of grapefruit overlaid with fresh frangipani in full bloom against a backdrop of cool chalky tones. Still holding on but I wouldn’t keep any longer.

2012 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis, courtesy of Russ. Classic pinot tint, exuding a mild rosy fragrance touched with some salinity. Its pedigree is evident throughout the medium palate where its savoury darkish fruit is impeccably balanced against the sleek acidity giving the impression of charred elements, eventually settling down with refined purity.

2020 Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, courtesy of Tim. Very deep crimson. Warm density of ripe red fruits, raspberries and currants on the nose. Bold presence of fruit and slick acidity in equal measure touched with a splash of oak on the full palate. Very well integrated at first, proffering fine gritty inner detail and excellent precision before it developed into a monolithic tannic presence, becoming way too angular.

2018 Laurent Ponsot Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, courtesy of Alice. This wine opens with a rich dark rosy fragrance, superbly lifted. The palate is medium-full, layered with a fleshy abundance of bright red fruit that exude a warm ripeness, not overly extracted. Highly refined and beautifully balanced, finishing with good length.

1998 Domaine Dujac Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru, courtesy of Russ. Mature pinot tint, proffering an alluring warm fragrance of red fruits and mandarins from fruit that is beautifully mature yet tremendously lively and agile, still imbued with fine intensity, yielding layers of enticing flavours from melted sweet tannins. Marries real charm, elegance and understated power. Outstanding.